It has a single adjustment screw that seems to only affect the second stage while the first stage is driven by the trigger spring. This is likely why everyone is such a big fan of the Yo-Dave or various other trigger spring kits.I dont know what the mechanism is of the Tac A1 trigger, but if there is a single adjustment point, I don't know if it is possible to adjust it enough to get the second stage to be that distinct at that weight. I tried looking up photos of the TAC A1 trigger and I cant tell how it works. Maybe post a few high res photos and I can suggest something. Otherwise the Timney with the ability to adjust both stages independently it should work better for you.
My jard sucked hard to I stuck the factory one back inSomeone mentioned a jard trigger earlier in thread. I said my jard trigger sucked. Jard autocorrected to hard in the my reply you quoted.
The take feels about the same. If anything the Tac A 1 is a little longer in the take up. What I notice most (besides the follow through) is the serrations on the Tikka shoe but that doesn't have any affect on the performance.Is there any difference in the take-up of the first stage between the 2 triggers?
I currently have a Tac A1 w/ the Yo-Dave spring. My issue is with the first stage on the Tac A1 trigger. Once I get around the 2lb range, the first stage makes it tough to find the wall compared to a friend's Trigger-Tech or Bix-N-Andy, and every once in a while I pull through it. I'm wondering if the Timney T3 would give me that adjustability have or if I should just increase pull weight and leave it be.
Thanks. I saw that post but was hoping to squeeze you for a little more info if possible. I have a Tikka trigger that adjusts down to 2.8ilbs with the factory spring and 2.1lbs with a Yodave spring.Post #13 in this thread
It's pretty accurate.Thanks. I saw that post but was hoping to squeeze you for a little more info if possible. I have a Tikka trigger that adjusts down to 2.8ilbs with the factory spring and 2.1lbs with a Yodave spring.
Did you just polish the contact surfaces between trigger and sear? What was your polishing process?
I found this diagram online. It was labelled as an M558 trigger but looks similar to the T3/T3x trigger.
View attachment 7164998
Does this look like an accurate representation of the T3/T3x trigger to you? I thought the contact surfaces on the trigger and sear looked quite narrow and potentially difficult to polish.
Did you have any problems disassembling and reassembling the trigger. All the pins in my trigger are staked.
Buy from brownells and if you don't like it they have a no questions asked return policy if you are unsatified.It has a single adjustment screw that seems to only affect the second stage while the first stage is driven by the trigger spring. This is likely why everyone is such a big fan of the Yo-Dave or various other trigger spring kits.
That being said, I got a small promotion at work and decided it was enough to justify buying the Timney trigger haha. Once I get it and install it, I'll get back with how they compare and whether my $190 was wasted.
Thanks for the feedback. Very helpful.It's pretty accurate.
Taking apart the trigger I took a dremel and removed the staking on one side. The safety holds a spring and it is kinda hard to put back together (needs a pick).
My process was to stick wet/dry to a good square machined edge using pressure sensitive adhesive. I worked up from like P800-P2500 keeping the paper wet with soapy water. I just polished/squared the edges. I adjusted the amount of engagement by taking the nub that the trigger sits on to increase the length of pull before the break slightly because of personal preference.