Tikka T3 Thread

phlegethon

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I just ordered a TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. I might eventually go with an ARCA rail but decided to start out with a Picatinny rail to mount my Atlas Bipod. It looks like mixed results on a rail to attach to the M-LOK. Any recommendations?
You can’t go wrong with the rails from Magpul. They make both polymer and aluminum, I’d probably choose the latter for a bipod.
 

260284

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I just ordered a TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. I might eventually go with an ARCA rail but decided to start out with a Picatinny rail to mount my Atlas Bipod. It looks like mixed results on a rail to attach to the M-LOK. Any recommendations?
If you are going to shoot any PRS style matches, get the Area 419 ARCA rail for it. They make an M-lok version and it makes the gun ride a bag a lot better than the factory forend.
 
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Wiscat

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Does Tikka sell the Tac A1 chassis as a stand alone part? Or is my best bet to try and find a take off? I’m looking for one but haven’t seen much.
 

phlegethon

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Does Tikka sell the Tac A1 chassis as a stand alone part? Or is my best bet to try and find a take off? I’m looking for one but haven’t seen much.
I might try to get behind one first, personally I think the ergonomics aren’t great. I sold mine and got a KRG Bravo and I’m much happier.
 
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CaptNemo

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I might try to get behind one first, personally I think the ergonomics aren’t great. I sold mine and got a KRG Bravo and I’m much happier.
For what you would spend on a used Tac A1 chassis, you have a lot of alternatives in the price range: KRG Whiskey, MDT ACC or Masterpiece Arms are in that some price range.
 
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SWWI Shooter

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Not the best picture, but I had a 23.5" medium palma cut down to 18" so it would be handier with a suppressor. I was running a factory 20" with 130gr Prime for deer hunting. I gained about 10 fps even though I went 2" shorter, getting 2756 with the factory Prime with the TBAC 30P-1 on it. I have a new Dominus SR on order that I will swap between this and my AR. I am getting 2730 with 143 ELDX handloads, have some other bullets to play with, but I really like the terminal performance that I have seen with the 130 Norma Golden Target on 6 deer so far.

What model is your McMillan and how long was the wait on it?View attachment 7252641
Interesting. I'll do some more load development when the suppressor gets out of jail. Maybe I should try out some 130's. They also say that an aftermarket barrel will give more speed. It took right at 11 weeks to get my stock so I was happy with that. It is the Game Hunter in carbon with the edge fill.
 
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260284

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Interesting. I'll do some more load development when the suppressor gets out of jail. Maybe I should try out some 130's. They also say that an aftermarket barrel will give more speed. It took right at 11 weeks to get my stock so I was happy with that. It is the Game Hunter in carbon with the edge fill.
When the Bartlein was 23.5" I was getting 2830 with the 143 ELDX and only 2662 out of the factory 20" CTR barrel. I figured cutting it to 18" I would still be faster than the 20". I have some of the 130 Norma bullets that I will play with in some Peterson srp brass with a few different powders. Should be able to duplicate the factory Prime or beat it. I have had exits on all deer shot with them so far.
 

Chickentoast

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I picked up a T3X Hunter in 30-06 as a donor for my 284 Shehane build, but it needs to ship, and I'd like to order the barrel in the meantime.

If I keep the Hunter stock, is it thick enough along the barrel channel to sand the inside and use a heavier contour barrel? Or would I need to sand the top of the stock down (sides of stock too thin)?

Thanks!
 

Mxracer532

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Need help, debating between Mark5HD 3.6-18x44 or the 5-25x56, T3X lite. I have a mountain tactical 20moa rail and have Seekins .95 rings already. Will the 56obj clear or would I need higher rings?? Or just run with the 3.6-18x44 that I know will clear.
 
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Ranger Bob

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Need help, debating between Mark5HD 3.6-18x44 or the 5-25x56, T3X lite. I have a mountain tactical 20moa rail and have Seekins .92 rings already. Will the 56obj clear or would I need higher rings?? Or just run with the 3.6-18x44 that I know will clear.
On my CTR with 20moa Mountain Tactical base and factory barrel, a 56mm objective will clear with the .92" rings but, a scope cap won't. You would have slightly more room with the barrel on the lite. I'm probably not any help.

Bob
 

Mxracer532

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On my CTR with 20moa Mountain Tactical base and factory barrel, a 56mm objective will clear with the .92" rings but, a scope cap won't. You would have slightly more room with the barrel on the lite. I'm probably not any help.

Bob
Got a pic? I'm not sure how much extra room I'd need with the Mark5 scope caps.
 

Mxracer532

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you can always file down or remove some material if you already bought rings and scope but the caps don't fit by a tiny smudge.
I'm assuming you have tried? Rings are also .95 not 92's.
I know the 3.6-18x44 fits easily. But id go with the 5-25 if I can and not have to get taller rings
 

JGR1953

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I'm assuming you have tried? Rings are also .95 not 92's.
I know the 3.6-18x44 fits easily. But id go with the 5-25 if I can and not have to get taller rings
It's only money so just buy the Alumina caps ;)
 

Gee Kay

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Need help, debating between Mark5HD 3.6-18x44 or the 5-25x56, T3X lite. I have a mountain tactical 20moa rail and have Seekins .95 rings already. Will the 56obj clear or would I need higher rings?? Or just run with the 3.6-18x44 that I know will clear.
if it was me looking at those two scopes i would look at it in a different way...

1. both are 5 power scopes
2. one will have better low light transmission (56mm obj) than the other
3. what will i be using the scope primarily for

when spending that sort of money on a scope i would be prepared to purchase new rings if the ones i have didn't allow the bell to clear

my thoughts.
 
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Mxracer532

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if it was me looking at those two scopes i would look at it in a different way...

1. both are 5 power scopes
2. one will have better low light transmission (56mm obj) than the other
3. what will i be using the scope primarily for

when spending that sort of money on a scope i would be prepared to purchase new rings if the ones i have didn't allow the bell to clear

my thoughts.
Cheek weld is also of concern. I'd rather not have to modify the stock or buy a new stock with adjustable comb. I know I'm pinching pennies but it's what I gotta do. 😂
 
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Radiohead71

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Finally got the McMillan installed on my hunting rifle. Loving the balance and the Thunderbeast suppressor (when it comes) will finish it out nicely. It has been a multi year project to get it here. Started off as a stainless CTR in 6.5 CM but since then I had the barrel cut to 19 inches and fluted. Had it Cerakoted, added a Area 419 20 moa rail, aftermarket bottom metal to accept the factory mags. Finally I added the Carbon McMillian stock, Nightforce scope, Seekins low rings and Sterk handle. I think I'm done now but who knows :)
Wow that looks great! I would like to do the same for a T3x stainless in 3006. Dumb question maybe, but why a 20 moa rail on a hunting rifle? What will your maximum ranges be? Is that to get the scope higher to match the stock? Are there any disadvantages to using the dovetail mount? What bottom metal did you go with?
 

perttime

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Looks like a Sako hunting rifle with integral picatinny rail and Blaser style thumbhole stock

Oh. It is a chassis. With a bit of adjustability.

and a different version with a more target/precision style chassis/stock
 
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trob

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I might try to get behind one first, personally I think the ergonomics aren’t great. I sold mine and got a KRG Bravo and I’m much happier.
although it might not be quite as comfortable, when I was considering those two, it was actually cheaper for me to buy the Tac a1 take-off chassis with 2 mags for $500 shipped. After selling the magazines, CTR stock, bottom metal, I was into the upgrade for less than $200. I figured that was pretty damn cheap to get into a folding aluminum chassis.
 

SWWI Shooter

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Wow that looks great! I would like to do the same for a T3x stainless in 3006. Dumb question maybe, but why a 20 moa rail on a hunting rifle? What will your maximum ranges be? Is that to get the scope higher to match the stock? Are there any disadvantages to using the dovetail mount? What bottom metal did you go with?
Regarding the 20 moa rail: I have 20 moa because that's what all of the cool kids have.... In all seriousness, no, it isn't needed for hunting (my kind of hunting anyway) but my brother has a range set up that we can shoot 1200 yards on steel so it's nice for that, especially with the velocity that the shorter barrel is producing. A zero moa rail would be just about perfect for cheek weld with the Seekins Low rings that I have but I also really like the Area 419 rails and they are 20 moa. The 20 moa with low rings does gives a nice cheek weld. Not perfect, but acceptable for hunting purposes. I just don't know if that setup would work with a 50mm scope....it would be really close.

Dovetail mounts: I haven't used them so I can't say for sure. I used the Sako dovetail mounts (on a Sako) once and hated them. I'm sure they function as they should but I just thought that they were engineered to fix a problem that doesn't exist. They are dang expensive too. My main concern with the Tikka dovetail rings is that if you want to take advantage of the recoil pin (which is nice) that the better rings have, it means mounting one of the rings in a specific spot (to match the hole on the rifle). Depending on the scope you have, this could mean mounting the scope to position the tube on the ring NOT for the best eye relief. IMHO, it's just hard to beat the good ol' tried and true Picatinny Rail base and ring system. So many more options for perfect alignment and ring options as well as being battle proved to be very rugged.

I went with the UK Gunworks bottom metal. I had never heard of it but a member here gave me a good deal on it and I really like it. It is made of 7075 aluminum alloy- most domestic bottom metals are 6000 series which is softer. Wish I could find another used one for my other Tikka as they are about $275 new.
 
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Gee Kay

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Cheek weld is also of concern. I'd rather not have to modify the stock or buy a new stock with adjustable comb. I know I'm pinching pennies but it's what I gotta do. 😂
Understand.
You can always add a cheek riser. I did that on one of my rifles. I used a bistoli cheek riser which has 3 levels of adjustment without modifying the stock. It also holds 10 rounds of ammo. Not sure if available outside of Australia. Itar [sic] might not allow imports of the cheek riser 🤣

 

envy5000

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anyone see a priceon these things? Can’t find it. Nevermind, they are for sale on Europtic. $1600 for hunter and $1700 for the PRS style.
Can you post links to the Eurooptics pages.. nevermind found em.
 
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TheChief

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I might try to get behind one first, personally I think the ergonomics aren’t great. I sold mine and got a KRG Bravo and I’m much happier.
I put my CTR in a KRG Bravo and its awesome. I've got three rifles in Bravos now and I think it would be hard to find a better stock unless you're willing to pay a hell of a lot more.
 

TheChief

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Cheek weld is also of concern. I'd rather not have to modify the stock or buy a new stock with adjustable comb. I know I'm pinching pennies but it's what I gotta do. 😂
I've got a CTR and I"m running a MK5HD 3.6-18 scope on it and it fits just fine. I"m using Leupold rings and it does have a 20MOA rail, but its has more than enough clearance, and the eye relief is just right. It's in a KRG Bravo stock now though.
 
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