Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

LongRangeLefty

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With 2700 rounds through my RPR 6.5-CM, I thought I should try to break down the bolt and give it a cleaning for the first time. :) I've had some light primer strikes out at the range recently. I thought maybe cleaning the bolt and firing pin might help.

I watched Ruger's video on Youtube. Easy enough. When I pivoted the plastic firing pin removal tool, the two tabs broke! On the very first use! That's pretty pathetic! So, I just ordered the titanium shroud and tool from Anarchy Outdoors. There goes another $100! LOL!

View attachment 7143245
View attachment 7143246
That blows! LRI sells one for $34.99. Everyone should just buy one now lol

 
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REL1203

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@REL1203 Is that how you have the rifle set to actually shoot? I Got a RPR 6.5GenIII for my son and he says that he needs the stock set just about at the limits, like yours is. It seems waaay long to me, but he is 6"1' and I'm 5" Worked it out to 550yards and are pretty happy with the accuracy.

RPRIII with Hornday 6.5CM 147gr (20 shots)

I was surprised that the 140s weren't faster.
I am 6'5 so yeah, it feels best when its maxed out like that for me. I will update you if you like once I get to shoot her this friday finally. I am generally a Benchrest shooter (not a prone shooter), so longer works for me. I am still not 100% sold on this stock though, I have a spare Magpul PRS that might find its home on this one next month if things dont go well.
 

LongRangeLefty

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I am 6'5 so yeah, it feels best when its maxed out like that for me. I will update you if you like once I get to shoot her this friday finally. I am generally a Benchrest shooter (not a prone shooter), so longer works for me. I am still not 100% sold on this stock though, I have a spare Magpul PRS that might find its home on this one next month if things dont go well.
The factory stock works well for me. Especially since I don’t really adjust it much. I guess a little more weight would be nice. The only thing I don’t like about it is how many smaller pieces it’s actually made up from. This part has come loose. That part has come loose. I’ve ended up blue loctiting the whole thing.
 

cgobeli

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The factory stock works well for me. Especially since I don’t really adjust it much. I guess a little more weight would be nice. The only thing I don’t like about it is how many smaller pieces it’s actually made up from. This part has come loose. That part has come loose. I’ve ended up blue loctiting the whole thing.
I haven't had any real issue with the factory stock. I really like how I can fit it to me and shrink it down so my 7 year old can shoot it. Its not the best looking stock, but it is very adjustable.
 
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clcustom1911

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Hello,
I am trying to get the barrel off my RPR, but the barrel nut is tight. Can I put the action in a vise so I can apply more torque to the nut? Is that the proper way to do it? I have seen Franks vids and it shows the action in a vise, but not while he applying torque to the barrel nut. How do you guys get the nut off?

Thanks in advance.
Use a dead-blow hammer on the barrel nut wrench. 2-3 solid hits and the barrel nut should break loose and spin right off. Gently increasing torque with a cheater bar ain't gonna do it. You need a sharp impact.
 

RPR300WM

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IMG_20190914_195132432.jpgIMG_20190914_195215985.jpg


Just installed a new, pre-fit Krieger barrel on my .300 win mag RPR.

26", 1:9 rifling, with match chamber (0.165" long, 0.3085 diameter lead), slightly heavier contour than stock.

Anxious to try it out. Gonna start with the load that worked best with stock barrel but with CBTO tweaked for this chamber

225gr Hornady ELD M
76.8gr H1000
FED GMM215M primer
Win brass
.030" off lands

Hint get the LRI barrel nut wrench if you plan to swap barrels on a magnum. Expensive but works great. The standard AR15 wrench wont work on the magnum. I spent extra $ on the LRI barrel nut wrench , good barrel vise and gauges but they are essential. If you plan on doing more than one barrel swap then buy the tools vs sending it out for a swap.
 
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rlsmith1

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Did you take any pics while you did the swap? Hope it shoots great, I'm sure it will. How many rounds did you get out of the stock barrel?
 

RPR300WM

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Did you take any pics while you did the swap? Hope it shoots great, I'm sure it will. How many rounds did you get out of the stock barrel?
No pics. I got 163 rounds out of the stock barrel. Wanted better accuracy and I didn't want to shoot another 1000 rounds before it wore out and got a true match grade barrel. Ruger uses a standard SAAMI min chamber which isn't conducive to consistent accuracy. Yeah you could get an occasional .75 MOA 5 shot group but not without some bigger groups as well. The 6.5 creedmoor has a much better saami chamber so they shoot better stock. Ruger should sell the magnum rifle without a barrel to lower the cost. That way you can invest in one decent barrel and not have a worthless pipe when you're done.
 
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cgobeli

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No pics. I got 163 rounds out of the stock barrel. Wanted better accuracy and I didn't want to shoot another 1000 rounds before it wore out and got a true match grade barrel. Ruger uses a standard SAAMI min chamber which isn't conducive to consistent accuracy. Yeah you could get an occasional .75 MOA 5 shot group but not without some bigger groups as well. The 6.5 creedmoor has a much better saami chamber so they shoot better stock. Ruger should sell the magnum rifle without a barrel to lower the cost. That way you can invest in one decent barrel and not have a worthless pipe when you're done.
I do not have the magnum, but I am getting ready to change my first RPR barrel (first barrel on anything other than a 10/22). What tools did you use? Did you use a barrel vise, action wrench, combination of the two?
 

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RPR300WM

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I do not have the magnum, but I am getting ready to change my first RPR barrel (first barrel on anything other than a 10/22). What tools did you use? Did you use a barrel vise, action wrench, combination of the two?
Barrel vise, LRI action wrench, torque wrench , go / no-go gauges
 
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Jmccracken1214

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I just traded a howa to a buddy for his 6.5 rpr. I had the 6CM RPR and miss it dearly. Probably going to build this out like my las. Prs stock, Timney and put a 6mm barrel on it so I don’t have 3 6.5’s lol
 

Jethatsme

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I am looking at changing the Buttstock on the RPR to the XLR industries Tactical stock. Aside from the stock what else do i need to purchase to swap it out? Also will the folding mechanism stay in place?

Thanks!
 

LongRangeLefty

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I am looking at changing the Buttstock on the RPR to the XLR industries Tactical stock. Aside from the stock what else do i need to purchase to swap it out? Also will the folding mechanism stay in place?

Thanks!
XLR will provide you with everything you need and since the buffer tube threads into the RPR’s folding mechanism, the ability to fold will remain in tact. I had an XLR stock on an AR15 and they are the bomb
 
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8up

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Anyone get a RPR in .300 PRC yet? Just mounted my scope to mine. Ammo comes this week.
I got one in last week. Have not made it to the range yet and still need to get it set-up correctly. Post back if you make it to the range and how it performed.
 

Racer88

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Following up to my RPR bolt tool breaking on me while trying to disassemble my bolt.

I got my titanium bolt shroud and bolt tool from Anarchy. It's a nice bit of kit.

But, now I know why the plastic tool broke. My bolt WILL NOT come apart. Even with the titanium tool. I insert it, and I can pivot the tool about 45-degrees, and THAT'S IT. It will not swing around to 90-degrees. Will. Not. I've tried and tried, using a fairly significant amount of force.

WTF is the problem??

Bolt rotated and aligned
RPR bolt (2).jpg

This is as far as I can pivot the tool. I can put all my weight on it, and it will not budge any further.
RPR bolt (4).jpg

Another view of the tool in place. It will not go past this position. It will not pivot to 90 degrees.
RPR bolt (1).jpg

I've tried inserting the tool from both sides... It will not budge past 45-degrees. I've already suffered injuries from trying so hard to make this thing work!

RPR bolt (3).jpg

In every video I've seen, the tool pivots EASILY. This is driving me crazy. I've tried inserting the tool from both sides. Same problem. I cannot get it to swing past 45-degrees. What is going on here? Thanks for any help! :)
 

cgobeli

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I have a question for all of you out there that have an RPR but also have higher dollar custom guns. I am trying to figure out a way to ask this without sounding like an A-hole, but I am not having much luck.

When comparing an RPR against a custom or higher quality rifle, do you feel like it's missing out on anything other than fit and finish?

I like my RPR a lot, it has served me well, but I keep dreaming of something better. But if I spend a few thousand dollars on a new rifle, am I going to get that much more out of it, or is my vanity just getting the best of me?
 

RPR300WM

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I have a question for all of you out there that have an RPR but also have higher dollar custom guns. I am trying to figure out a way to ask this without sounding like an A-hole, but I am not having much luck.

When comparing an RPR against a custom or higher quality rifle, do you feel like it's missing out on anything other than fit and finish?

I like my RPR a lot, it has served me well, but I keep dreaming of something better. But if I spend a few thousand dollars on a new rifle, am I going to get that much more out of it, or is my vanity just getting the best of me?
In my opinion, the barrel quality is the biggest difference. Just budget an extra $500-600 for a premium barrel (e.g bartlein, Krieger, etc) and swap it on your RPR.

The trigger might be another upgrade but mine was pretty good from factory and certainly not limiting factor so not planning to change it .
 
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cgobeli

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In my opinion, the barrel quality is the biggest difference. Just budget an extra $500-600 for a premium barrel (e.g bartlein, Krieger, etc) and swap it on your RPR.

The trigger might be another upgrade but mine was pretty good from factory and certainly not limiting factor so not planning to change it .
A barrel swap is planned after my local season ends, I have just over 1600 6mm creedmoors through it now. A few people have suggested triggers, but I haven't had an issue with mine.
 
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DannC

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Following up to my RPR bolt tool breaking on me while trying to disassemble my bolt.

I got my titanium bolt shroud and bolt tool from Anarchy. It's a nice bit of kit.

But, now I know why the plastic tool broke. My bolt WILL NOT come apart. Even with the titanium tool. I insert it, and I can pivot the tool about 45-degrees, and THAT'S IT. It will not swing around to 90-degrees. Will. Not. I've tried and tried, using a fairly significant amount of force.

WTF is the problem??

Bolt rotated and aligned
View attachment 7150347

This is as far as I can pivot the tool. I can put all my weight on it, and it will not budge any further.
View attachment 7150348

Another view of the tool in place. It will not go past this position. It will not pivot to 90 degrees.
View attachment 7150350

I've tried inserting the tool from both sides... It will not budge past 45-degrees. I've already suffered injuries from trying so hard to make this thing work!

View attachment 7150351

In every video I've seen, the tool pivots EASILY. This is driving me crazy. I've tried inserting the tool from both sides. Same problem. I cannot get it to swing past 45-degrees. What is going on here? Thanks for any help! :)
Hello Racer88, I have the same Anarchy bolt shroud but had never used the take down tool until now. Slipped in and rotated just fine. From the photos it appears you might have inserted the tool too far and the tool is binding on the rear of the firing pin, that it is supposed to depress. Just a thought.
 
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Racer88

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Hello Racer88, I have the same Anarchy bolt shroud but had never used the take down tool until now. Slipped in and rotated just fine. From the photos it appears you might have inserted the tool too far and the tool is binding on the rear of the firing pin, that it is supposed to depress. Just a thought.
Thanks for replying. I've tried it in every way possible... including not inserting it so far. I'm really quite mechanically-inclined and do not normally have trouble with things like this. I cannot figure this one out. It goes to 45-degrees and stops dead. Not a tiny bit more. It's enough to actually get the firing pin assembly out, but I'm afraid that once I do that, the tool will slip out (since it's not locked in) and then make things VERY difficult to get back together.
 

DannC

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Can you provide photos of the take down tool from a few different angles. I could compare it to mine, there might be some machining irregularities that are not to spec.
Also are the lugs of the firing pin in alignment with the rear bolt housing?

I have also allowed the tool to slip out and it is a pain to put back together. Thought I had it reassembled correctly. Went to the range posted my targets and got everything setup to shoot. Inserted mag and pushed the bolt handle forward. The bolt will disassemble inside the rifle if the lugs of the firing pin are not seated properly in the bolt handle. Not something easily fixed at the range!

Best of luck
 

Racer88

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Can you provide photos of the take down tool from a few different angles. I could compare it to mine, there might be some machining irregularities that are not to spec.
Also are the lugs of the firing pin in alignment with the rear bolt housing?

I have also allowed the tool to slip out and it is a pain to put back together. Thought I had it reassembled correctly. Went to the range posted my targets and got everything setup to shoot. Inserted mag and pushed the bolt handle forward. The bolt will disassemble inside the rifle if the lugs of the firing pin are not seated properly in the bolt handle. Not something easily fixed at the range!

Best of luck
I don't believe it's the tool. It's the bolt or pin assembly. I tried using the OEM plastic tool, and it broke on the first try to pivot it into the slots.

RPR bolt tool (1).jpg

RPR bolt tool (2).jpg

RPR bolt tool (3).jpg

RPR bolt tool (4).jpg

RPR bolt tool (5).jpg

RPR bolt tool (6).jpg
 

straightshooter1

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I don't believe it's the tool. It's the bolt or pin assembly. I tried using the OEM plastic tool, and it broke on the first try to pivot it into the slots.

View attachment 7150569
In comparing mine to your pic, it appears it's different at the top of the bolt where the firing pin assembly makes contact with it. Now . . . mine is a Gen 2 RPR with over 5500 firings. I've not had any issues that you're having. But I don't know if this difference between yours and mine is the problem for you . . .???


IMG_0002.JPG
 

Racer88

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In comparing mine to your pic, it appears it's different at the top of the bolt where the firing pin assembly makes contact with it. Now . . . mine is a Gen 2 RPR with over 5500 firings. I've not had any issues that you're having. But I don't know if this difference between yours and mine is the problem for you . . .???


View attachment 7150646
1569019647618.png

What is different? Mine is also a Gen 2. Looks exactly the same to me, except mine has a "3" engraved, where yours has a "4."
 

straightshooter1

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View attachment 7150652

What is different? Mine is also a Gen 2. Looks exactly the same to me, except mine has a "3" engraved, where yours has a "4."
The shadow on top makes it unclear, but it appears to me that that notched down part that is in contact with the bolt is lower than mine (the part just above the firing pin "T"). . . .??? The shadow appears to be level with where contact is made with the bolt???


InkedIMG_0002_LI.jpg
 

straightshooter1

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In this pic of your's, it definetly looks lower than mine as mine IS level with the bolt. Whether this is really related to your problem, I don't know. But it is a difference. Otherwise, there may be something inside the bolt that's binding. And I'd take it apart to see what it might be, even though it's a hassle getting back together.


InkedRPR bolt (2)_LI.jpg
 

Racer88

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In this pic of your's, it definetly looks lower than mine as mine IS level with the bolt. Whether this is really related to your problem, I don't know. But it is a difference. Otherwise, there may be something inside the bolt that's binding. And I'd take it apart to see what it might be, even though it's a hassle getting back together.
The tool that came from the FACTORY (plastic) didn't work, either. It broke when I tried to make that pivot past 45-degrees to 90-degrees. Same problem... hit a "wall," so to speak. The spring will NOT compress enough to allow the tool to pivot the rest of the way.

I HAVE to believe I'm not the only / first one to have this problem. Anyone else? Bueller? Bueller?
 

straightshooter1

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The spring will NOT compress enough to allow the tool to pivot the rest of the way.
This seems to be the heart of the problem. SOMETHING isn't allowing the spring to be compressed further. That could be an issue with the spring itself (like, a spring with dimensions that are a little off) or some other part internally that's getting in the way.

Maybe it's time to send the bolt to Ruger and have them take a look at it???
 

Racer88

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This seems to be the heart of the problem. SOMETHING isn't allowing the spring to be compressed further. That could be an issue with the spring itself (like, a spring with dimensions that are a little off) or some other part internally that's getting in the way.

Maybe it's time to send the bolt to Ruger and have them take a look at it???
Or, I could remove the firing pin and chance the tool popping out (it probably will). And, then try to see for myself what's going on in there. How hard is it to get back together if the tool pops out?
 

straightshooter1

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Or, I could remove the firing pin and chance the tool popping out (it probably will). And, then try to see for myself what's going on in there. How hard is it to get back together if the tool pops out?
That's the approach I would take. But, that's just me.

I once had the whole thing apart, to just to check out the internal cleanliness. :eek: It was a little hard to get it back together, mainly because of the limited tools I have. I managed by using a couple of crescent wrenches to compress the spring. I'm sure there's an easier way and in fact I recall there was someone on this website that mentioned using something (I just can't remember now) that was common and worked quite well. So, being "mechanically inclined", I'm sure you could work it out. :)
 
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LongRangeLefty

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^ With the rubber grips inserted, I put the pin in my vise and used a crescent wrench to compress the spring while I place the tool back in. Was pretty simple
 
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Kurusty

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I have a question for all of you out there that have an RPR but also have higher dollar custom guns. I am trying to figure out a way to ask this without sounding like an A-hole, but I am not having much luck.

When comparing an RPR against a custom or higher quality rifle, do you feel like it's missing out on anything other than fit and finish?

I like my RPR a lot, it has served me well, but I keep dreaming of something better. But if I spend a few thousand dollars on a new rifle, am I going to get that much more out of it, or is my vanity just getting the best of me?
I don't own any custom rifles, but I've shot many different ones at club matches, people that have them love to let you shoot them! I shoot my RPR in matches, and I love it. The biggest differences that I notice in the high end rifles is how smooth the actions are. It is definitely is a world of difference compared to mine. If I had the money to spare I probably would have one, but I'm very happy with my RPR though.
 
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ken4570tc in WY

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Guys and guns are like street drugs - other shooters like to let you try it so you can experience what you're missing out on and get you hooked. Personally, I like a rifle that I can experiment/tinker with and try my own ideas for improvements. The high end customs really only need to be fed and cleaned. My Nesika actioned 6.5-284 bench rifles are slicker than snake snot to operate and there's no need to take the Dremel to either one of them.
 
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larrystine

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I have one of these in titanium and they will engrave whatever you want on them.

What I like about this model is the titanium (or aluminum) bolt disassembly tool which is so much more durable than the plastic one from Ruger.


View attachment 7128606View attachment 7128606
I got one of these and the fit to the bolt is awful. Called anarchy up and all they did is make excuses. Since mine was custom engraved by their engraver they wouldnt do anything about it(wont do business with them anymore)The aluminum tool is great but the shroud itself sounds like a rattle trap once installed. Go with an LRI and dont look back
 

Kurusty

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Guys and guns are like street drugs - other shooters like to let you try it so you can experience what you're missing out on and get you hooked. Personally, I like a rifle that I can experiment/tinker with and try my own ideas for improvements. The high end customs really only need to be fed and cleaned. My Nesika actioned 6.5-284 bench rifles are slicker than snake snot to operate and there's no need to take the Dremel to either one of them.
LMFAO! You nailed it.
 

rookie7

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For those of you who have your RPR bolt fluted did it cycle rougher after having it done due to the bolt not being a round cylinder anymore or did it get smoother ? Thanks
 

PracticalTactical

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Following up to my RPR bolt tool breaking on me while trying to disassemble my bolt.

I got my titanium bolt shroud and bolt tool from Anarchy. It's a nice bit of kit.

But, now I know why the plastic tool broke. My bolt WILL NOT come apart. Even with the titanium tool. I insert it, and I can pivot the tool about 45-degrees, and THAT'S IT. It will not swing around to 90-degrees. Will. Not. I've tried and tried, using a fairly significant amount of force.

WTF is the problem??

Bolt rotated and aligned
View attachment 7150347

This is as far as I can pivot the tool. I can put all my weight on it, and it will not budge any further.
View attachment 7150348

Another view of the tool in place. It will not go past this position. It will not pivot to 90 degrees.
View attachment 7150350

I've tried inserting the tool from both sides... It will not budge past 45-degrees. I've already suffered injuries from trying so hard to make this thing work!

View attachment 7150351

In every video I've seen, the tool pivots EASILY. This is driving me crazy. I've tried inserting the tool from both sides. Same problem. I cannot get it to swing past 45-degrees. What is going on here? Thanks for any help! :)
If I'm not mistaken there are lugs on the bushing that holds the bolt handle in.

You need to rotate until the lugs on that bushing are aligned with the slots in the bolt handle.

Since you are doing this blind, you can only feel your way around, but if it is binding, you are clearly not in the right spot, just rotate the firing pin assembly a little one way or the other and try again.

From your pictures you look to be 90 degrees out of rotation.

I'm working from memory here, so please forgive me if this is not correct.

1569204082958.png1569204082958.png
 
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DocBernard

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Finally got a chance to do a decent zero on my Gen II 6.5CM. Been working really long hours lately, so trigger time has been on the back burner except for just barrel break in shooting (also to generate reload brass). But this weekend, I finally made some time.

Can’t say how pleased I am with the results. I was shooting short range at about 80 yds paced. First group was bug eyes. Second group was same hole, and third group was bug eye and on target. (The flier you see was mine shooting an AR to confirm on paper for some one from a standing position.). Nothing done to the rifle in functionality, it’s factory stock. I attribute the bug eyes from poor shooting position/body mechanics

I am running an Athlon Argos, Atlas bipod, and Accushot monopod. Was firing factory 124gr hollow tip Winchester. The can is borrowed, but it’s an AAC 7.62 (love how it settles it down even more)

Can’t wait to get the reload gear together so I can tweak my loads even better.
 

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cgobeli

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Guys and guns are like street drugs - other shooters like to let you try it so you can experience what you're missing out on and get you hooked. Personally, I like a rifle that I can experiment/tinker with and try my own ideas for improvements. The high end customs really only need to be fed and cleaned. My Nesika actioned 6.5-284 bench rifles are slicker than snake snot to operate and there's no need to take the Dremel to either one of them.
I think you really hit the nail on the head with that one. I have had many people offer, but I always say no because I do not want to know what it is like out there unless I have the money to play, I cant have that rattling around in my head.
 
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Racer88

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If I'm not mistaken there are lugs on the bushing that holds the bolt handle in.

You need to rotate until the lugs on that bushing are aligned with the slots in the bolt handle.

Since you are doing this blind, you can only feel your way around, but if it is binding, you are clearly not in the right spot, just rotate the firing pin assembly a little one way or the other and try again.

From your pictures you look to be 90 degrees out of rotation.

I'm working from memory here, so please forgive me if this is not correct.
I'll try again with that perspective. Thanks!

On another note... I've got over 2800 rounds through my original RPR 6.5CM barrel. Theoretically, it should be nearly "shot out." But, then I pulled this off this weekend at 300 yards. We had a wind from 5 - 15 mph from about 7 o'clock. Temp was about 90 degrees. Factory Hornady ELD-M 140-gr ammo.

1st target of the day. Minus the "sighters" on the right, I kept the other 18 shots within 1-MOA.

Target 1 Group.jpg

I ran another 20 rounds through a 2nd target. I screwed around with windage switching from holdover to dialing. So, screwing around opened up the group a bit.

Target 2 Group.jpg

Then I switched to a gridded "precision" target. I was surprised that all five groups were sub-MOA. I had one honest-to-goodness sub-1/2-MOA group. And, two of the groups were about 1/3-MOA, if I subtracted the "flyers."

Target 3 Groups.jpg

Close-up of Group 1 from that target.

Target-3-Group-1.jpg


Close-up of Group 3... sub-1/2-MOA. No flyers! :)

Target-3-Group-3.jpg

Close-up of Group 4. Even with the "flyer," a nearly 1/2-MOA group!

Target-3-Group-4.jpg


It was a good day at the range... at least for me! Probably the best I've ever shot.
 
Last edited:

cgobeli

Private
Minuteman
Apr 6, 2018
28
8
6
What is everyone using for a barrel vise to swap out the barrel? I was thinking about grabbing a Viper, but I heard they are not that good.
 

RPR300WM

Private
Minuteman
Dec 20, 2018
41
23
12
What is everyone using for a barrel vise to swap out the barrel? I was thinking about grabbing a Viper, but I heard they are not that good.
 
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