I wouldnt be so sure itll do much better. On 1 hand I would be thrilled with anything sub MOA with the "Cheapest S&B" you could find. But on the other hand, its a 3 shot group. I would bet those groups to be bigger with 5 shots and cheap ammo. If it shoots consistently . 5-.6" 5 shot groups with quality handloads than I think you would be getting about the most you should expect for a production rifle with all factory parts. Ive upgraded everthing on my RPR except the barrel and while I am occasionally rewarded with a .3-.4" group, its really a .5-.7" rifle when I do my part. A new Proof tube would probably narrow that but Im not that disciplined and a Proof barrel costs as much as the rifle did new.Went out with the rpr xl yesterday. Factory ammo (cheapest s&b I can find local) runs right at .7 moa. I shot ladders and most everything was sub moa. I had several in the .6-.7 range, and 2 sets under .5. I know it can do better because I usually stack 2 rounds and have one open the group. I guess it's time to buy some lapua brass and see what all the hubbub is about.
and just to through it out there.... Houston in the middle of august is brutal at the range
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This is straight from Sampson for a Gen 2 with KeymodI have the enhanced RPR with the smooth top rail on the forend. Does anyone know who makes a screw on 1913 rail that will mount on the factory hand Guard?i have night vision coming and need a place to clip it on the forward rail. Really don’t want to change handguards out yet.
This is straight from Sampson for a Gen 2 with KeymodYea I’m not aware of anyone that makes a chunk of rail to match the contour of the top of the factory Gen 2 handguard. You could try to find something close but then you also gotta worry about hole spacing. Samson makes a direct replacement handguard that used the factory barrel nut for like $150. Probably cheapest and easiest option. That or find someone trying to sell a gen 3 mlok takeoff on flebay or something like that
Mine was shooting half moa till about 2700 rounds.RPR Gen II, 6.5 Creedmoor. Any Stats on barrel life for this rifle? Thanks
Yup . . . sounds like it's time for a new barrel there. Getting 2700 rounds down a 6.5CM and holding 1/2 MOA is pretty good.Mine was shooting half moa till about 2700 rounds.
I'm now at 3018 rounds and it's struggling to hold an inch group @ 100 yards.
I just got a borescope I'll post some pics tonight of how burnt out my throat is
I am running 42.6 of rl16 and a 140eld in hornady brass think I am right at 2700fps with that load in my rprYup . . . sounds like it's time for a new barrel there. Getting 2700 rounds down a 6.5CM and holding 1/2 MOA is pretty good.
Of course, just how long the barrel is going to last has a lot to do with how hot the loads are. If one is running hot loads, one should expect a lot less than 2700.
My .308 factory barrel has 3700 rounds and still getting sub 1/2 MOA. . . . though I haven't run very many "hot" loads through it and my loads are typically medium/mild. The lands has moved .023 and I'm loading long.
Running some numbers through QuickLoad app and it appears you're not even close to 2700 fps, but more like 2850 -2980 (may not be quite right in that COAL or seating depth is not known). That 42.6 gr of RL16 is at or over 100% case capacity and it's a pretty hot load. This would seem to explain what you're experiencing in that with 2700 rounds down the barrel, and so, I'd say your barrel is simply done and you need to get a new one to get back you accuracy. You might want to take it to a gunsmith to see if what I'm saying might be true.I am running 42.6 of rl16 and a 140eld in hornady brass think I am right at 2700fps with that load in my rpr
Damn unless my chrono is way off I dunno?Running some numbers through QuickLoad app and it appears you're not even close to 2700 fps, but more like 2850 -2980 (may not be quite right in that COAL or seating depth is not known). That 42.6 gr of RL16 is at or over 100% case capacity and it's a pretty hot load. This would seem to explain what you're experiencing in that with 2700 rounds down the barrel, and so, I'd say your barrel is simply done and you need to get a new one to get back you accuracy. You might want to take it to a gunsmith to see if what I'm saying might be true.
Hmmm, could be the Chrono . . .???Damn unless my chrono is way off I dunno?
Caldwell cheapo chronograph could be the culprit but I don't think I'm anywhere near those speeds.
It is a compressed load but I don't have pressure signs with the load.
Another interesting thing is in my 24" mpa barrel I'm running 41.6 of rl 16 and I'm about 2760fps, again according to my chrono.
My ruger barrel is Def shot out I'll. Post some pics of the bore shortly.
I need to get that app, Ididnt realize the rpr load was so hot lol. I figured I had a super slow barrel but maybe my chrono is way off..Hmmm, could be the Chrono . . .???
BTW, I see I had a typo in the velocity range I wrote. The upper end I meant was supposed to be 2880 fps. . . not 2980. And note that QuickLoad was showing pressure just under 60,000 psi. So at that pressure, I too don't often see pressure signs in my .308 hot loads either (though I seldom load them that way). . . . but it IS "hot".
Yeah (lol), that throat is pretty charred. Though firecracking is normal to see . . . it depends on how far into the barrel it goes that can tell you something.Just got done scrubbin the shit outta my barrel. Here are some pics of what the stock 6.5 creedmoor barrel looks like after 3k+ rounds.
Still shoots an inch @ 100 despite the throat being totally burnt out LOL
Better to put the barrel in a barrel vise. Then, if you really need to apply some extra ordinary force, you won't be damaging the receiver in any way. You don't want to warp the receiver in any way.Hello,
I am trying to get the barrel off my RPR, but the barrel nut is tight. Can I put the action in a vise so I can apply more torque to the nut? Is that the proper way to do it? I have seen Franks vids and it shows the action in a vise, but not while he applying torque to the barrel nut. How do you guys get the nut off?
Thanks in advance.
Which Buttstock is that? Looks great
I was thinking of doing an MDT stock, but I hadn’t looked into it any further as of yet. They sell adapters, but not sure if they would work on the RPR.Upgrading the RPR, does anyone have any great options for replacing the Buttstock. I have seen the Magpul PRS and Luth AR options but was looking to see if anyone had gone with something different while stile being an adjustable.
That’s an XLR stock. I had one on my AR15. They’re really nice. I had a Luth AR which was nice too. The Luth AR is a little lighter I think and no tools required to adjust it. The XLR is a little more quality in my opinion, and is heavier (I like weight on my rig), but you need a hex key to adjust it. I don’t do a whole lot of adjusting though so that didn’t matter to meWhich Buttstock is that? Looks great
Upgrading the RPR, does anyone have any great options for replacing the Buttstock. I have seen the Magpul PRS and Luth AR options but was looking to see if anyone had gone with something different while stile being an adjustable.
I decided to go for a kreiger prefit barrel. 26", 4 groove, 1:9 heavy contour with their match chamber that is SAAMI MIN spec but more importantly with a .165" long, .3085" diameter freebore. Not to mention truly precision cut rifling .Im thinking about replacing the barrel on my .300 win mag. Only have 150 rounds through it but it's not very consistent. Sometimes can get a decent group but often not. I just think that you really need at least 10 round groups to see what a rifle is truly capable of achieving.
My stock Ruger RPR barrel Cooper fouls pretty quickly and in reality probably a 1.25-1.5 MOA rifle when looking at 10 round groups.
I think this rifle needs a true match grade barrel with a chamber that's better than the SAAMI MIN version Ruger uses. I think that why the creedmoore and PRC shoot better than the .308 and .300 win mag, the chamber design.
I hope the a new barrel with a match chamber delivers better accuracy than the stock barrel.
Too bad Ruger doesn't machine a chamber like the mk248 mod1 because then there might be some usefulness to the rifle as purchased in this caliber.
Nice. Feel the power of the .308! The best factory ammo I’ve used was Nosler Custom 168 gr. Long range factory it liked 178 gr Hornady Superformance. Reloading it likes it heavy. Very heavy.After reading through all 81 pages, i finally got to mount my Scope and Bipod last night (was waiting on the new rings) on my just purchased Gen 2 308 RPR. I got in on that killer GanderOutdoor $700 deal. The trigger is as crisp as my SAC .260 trigger, i cant wait to get her out to see how she shoots. View attachment 7142959
Nice work!@REL1203 Is that how you have the rifle set to actually shoot? I Got a RPR 6.5GenIII for my son and he says that he needs the stock set just about at the limits, like yours is. It seems waaay long to me, but he is 6"1' and I'm 5" Worked it out to 550yards and are pretty happy with the accuracy.