Equipment selection for reloading room

4066.5

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Evening,

Although it wasn't much I had to get rid of all my reloading gear because of a move. After a couple years getting settled in I finally have a spot to start rebuilding my reloading room. Basically I have right now is a Coax and waiting to receive from a pre-order of fx120i with v3 autothrow/autotrickler .

I have Redding dies for my 300wm and have used those in the past before. But for my 6.5 and future calipers is there something better/ different out there that you all would recommend? I was looking at Whidden click adjust bushing type and on the complete opposite spectrum, looking at Hornady.

I used to use a Harbor freight rotary, this time around I'm looking at a basic Lyman vibrating , is there any advantage of a rotary vs vibrating.

Case prep, thinking of little crow trimmer , hand chamfer / primer pocket / ect. Is a giraud worth it ?? Only looking to reload ~200 6.5cm & 300wm /month
But upwards of 1k of 223/ 9mm ... Which brings me to my next question.

I've only used progressives for shotgun reloading .. I'm looking at a 550 for 223 / 9mm ... Is upgrading to a 650 worth the extra $ when I usually do about 300-400 before switching calipers. I heard it's PIA to switch between calipers in the 650 and the 550 is a little more user friendly for people new to progressives .

Lastly is there anything else that has improved made your reloading life easier/ more enjoyable? I'm a sucker for cool gadgets and anything shooting related.
 

Backcountryguy

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Mitutoyo calipers....I’ll never buy another cheap $30 caliper again.

If you’re looking for a chronograph...Magnetospeed V3 or Labradar

I’d buy some sort of case prep station with spots for multiple tools so you only pickup each case once to do all the things needed...chamfer/debur/primer pocket reamer/a brush...etc.

I like wet tumbling. Quieter and cleaner...but this is definitely just personal preference.

If you’ve got the bank....The primal rights CPS for priming cases.
 

straightshooter1

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I used to use a Harbor freight rotary, this time around I'm looking at a basic Lyman vibrating , is there any advantage of a rotary vs vibrating.
I use both a rotary with SS pins and a vibrating tumbler with medium grain rice. For the most part, I like to use the vibrating tumbler as it cleans up the outside nicely and the inside a little bit, but leaves some of the carbon layer in the neck, which makes for better seating and bullet release. Also, I like the vibrating tumbler as it tends to NOT peen the case mouths. I use my rotary with SS pins to get my brass looking like new where it cleans the carbon out of the inside and does a great job too on the primer pockets. The rotary tends to peen the case mouths, but that isn't typically an issue at all for me as I always trim my brass as the last operation for brass prep.

Case prep, thinking of little crow trimmer , hand chamfer / primer pocket / ect. Is a giraud worth it ?? Only looking to reload ~200 6.5cm & 300wm /month
Rather that getting the Little Crow Trimmer, I'd recommend getting the Trim-It II as it works much the same as the Giraud Tri-Way, except unlike the Giraud, the Trim-It II as caliber inserts rather than having to get a caliber specific Tri_Way. I have the Tri-Way Trimmer and having a tool that not only trims accurately but also chamfers and deburrs really does save a lot of time.

 
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straightshooter1

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I agree with Backcountryguy . . . get a good caliper like the Mitutoyo. I got a good deal on one here:


Just make sure when buying on a site like Amazon that you're not buying a forgery (like often seen from China).

I also have two other cheap $40 calipers that I keep my set up; one with a comparator and the other with the head space gauge. They're plenty reliable enough and I've got my Mitutoyo to help be sure that they're on point. But the difference between the Mitutoyo and the others is night and day in the time it takes to get a good reading.
 
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4066.5

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Should have clarified I have a magnetospeed v3 ( would love to trade for a labradar though) and a igauging digital caliper and an anytime tools micrometer. So far they have been accurate , but a mitu is in the "future purchase" bin.. after all your only as precise as you're able to measure.
 

straightshooter1

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Should have clarified I have a magnetospeed v3 ( would love to trade for a labradar though) and a igauging digital caliper and an anytime tools micrometer. So far they have been accurate , but a mitu is in the "future purchase" bin.. after all your only as precise as you're able to measure.
I love my Magnetospeed v3. :giggle:

If you're not doing to yet, you may want to consider turning necks for your 6.5 . . . ??? If you do, the consider 21st Century Neck turning Lathe. It's about as good as it gets: http://www.xxicsi.com/neck-turning-lathe-complete.html

Then you'd want to get a ball or tube micrometer to measure neck thickness. This one works very well for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01524DDIO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

702lineman

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Having both the dillon 650 and 550 I'd recommend the 550 if you are going to do rifle on it also. The main problem with the 650 is it slings powder out of the case when it advances to the next station.

If you have the things you need it's pretty quick to change calibers on them. If you had other things to buy I'd leave this for last
 
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4066.5

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I love my Magnetospeed v3. :giggle:

If you're not doing to yet, you may want to consider turning necks for your 6.5 . . . ??? If you do, the consider 21st Century Neck turning Lathe. It's about as good as it gets: http://www.xxicsi.com/neck-turning-lathe-complete.html

Then you'd want to get a ball or tube micrometer to measure neck thickness. This one works very well for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01524DDIO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would love to start turning necks .. I got that exact mic you posted to determine whY bushings to get and for future neck turning activities. 15736818659716230001440231797244.jpg
 

4066.5

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Having both the dillon 650 and 550 I'd recommend the 550 if you are going to do rifle on it also. The main problem with the 650 is it slings powder out of the case when it advances to the next station.

If you have the things you need it's pretty quick to change calibers on them. If you had other things to buy I'd leave this for last
Good to know and confirm what I've read online elsewhere ... So even if I get more "advanced" or experienced you don't think the 550 will hold me back .. being that I still only load under 1k before swapping calipers.
 

Jrb572

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I use a 650 without issue for rifle rounds. But it’s probably how I have mine set up. I have my seating die on I think it’s number 4 station. I fill it and put it on the machine and same stroke puts the bullet in. You can also purchase a single stage conversion for the 650. I would not trade my 650 for anything