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  • What's a good knife

    I am looking for a good fixed blade knife to put with my survival/BOB. Pack anyone have any suggestions

  • #51
    Originally posted by NY700 View Post

    Anything ESEE is the way to go.

    +1 for this. I really like my ESEE 3.
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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    • #52
      Good knives aren't cheap and cheap knives aren't good, I don't care what anyone says. If I'm putting a knife in a BOB it's going to be something I can depend on. Its not like you can only use it in an end of times scenario. Get a Randall, Blackjack, Bark River, Essee or anything else of the same caliber. If it were me it would have a Carbon blade as well, YMMV.

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      • #53
        Hey guys!
        Check out J. Wolfe Cutlery.

        Josh is an active Army soldier, past sniper school instructor and all around great guy! He makes custom fixed blades for people. I think he only has a Facebook account for the business at the moment. Do yourselves a favor and check them out. Extremely strong, well thought out survival knives.

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        • #54
          Zero Tolerance, very solid knives.

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          • #55
            I have owned and used several different brands from busse to mora. One question aside from cost is intended purpose. Different edge types for different uses. Personally, I have found through experience that I desire to have an axe for limbic and splitting while reserving the knife for carving and slicing purposes. Scandinavian grinds are easy to sharpen for less experienced bushcrafters. One knife company I recommend is TOPS. They have a Tahoma field knife that has been designed to replace several tools and it is a good design. You can find the for about 150 on bladehq. I lean towards moral in the field because of price and performance and use them... I also prefer to put in my bug out bag that which I have personally tried and found to be rugged and robust for my purposes. Another recommendation would be the mora garberg... I also second the comments recommending two knives. I have often kept a smaller fixed blade for food prep and small carving tasks... also for hygiene in the field important to not cross contaminate prep and eating tools imho. Good luck on your quest and if you have not researched your area. You may want to join a local bushcraft group to sharpen skills and check out what others use so you can save money without experimenting (like I did lol). Fyi if you go carbon steel keep small amount of olive oil on cotton ball to treat blade after use to prevent corrosion.

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            • #56
              Originally posted by Schleifalot View Post
              In a BOB should go no expensive equipment IMHO. It sits around most of the time.
              I believe the exact opposite. A BOB/GHB should be used by the owner as often as possible so he is familiar with the gear and trusts it with his life! If a BOB/GHB has to be used for the emergency we built it for, the equipment must be dependable.

              So said, I have upgraded my GHB to the best gear I've found and used over the last 35 years. My original gear was stuff I had laying around, mostly for hunting and camping as junior high kid. Over the decades I've bought better equipment that has been used in real situations through hunting, camping and backyard testing.

              Now does each item cost a lot? Some do, others are rather inexpensive from a $125 Tops Pasayten fixed blade to a $12 Mora. Each has their place but the key is I know they will do the jobs I ask of them because I've been using them extensively. Please don't let your BOB/GHBs sit around unused!
              Plainsman
              plainsmanscabin@yahoo.com
              http://www.stormloader.com/plainsman...mansCabin.html

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              • #57
                Bradford guardian 4 or 5 are fantastic knives.
                The lyf so short, the craft so long to lerne
                "Do not pray for an easy life, acquire the strength to endure a difficult one" -Bruce Lee

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                • #58
                  Buddy of mine (he is here on SH, but not very active) is making amazing Bushcraft knives. I posted pictures of one of his that I took deer hunting in Ohio a couple of years ago.

                  He is actually not that expensive.... makes everything himself, including the sheaths. His metalworking is great. And his knives are rugged as hell.

                  PM me and I'll get you guys in touch.

                  Cheers,

                  Sirhr

                  P.S. He shoots a TRG... and just got a 6.5. He is a pretty serious long-range shooter. We have shot together quite a few times!
                  Quidvis recte factum quamvis humile praeclarum

                  Oderint dum metuant

                  "You went full nerd with that reference." Thanks, I will wear that as a badge of honor!

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                  • #59
                    The title of this thread, in the form of a question, is "What's a good knife?"

                    The answer to the question, is "One that holds an edge and ability to perform the intended task."

                    Now, over the years, I have sharpened a knife or two. I don't do it for a living, but I have many MANY people bringing their knives to me (and other assorted 'edged' items) to get taken care-of, properly. I have long ago stated that I will NOT waste my time, infrastructure, or their money doing any work on 'cheap' blades. Such as those 24 piece sets that one would get from Wally-world, that comes with a piece-of-shit knife-block AND 6 extra other gizmo-gadgets for only $18.99,,, and if you call right now......

                    Soft metal is immediately 'felt' when attempting to do any sharpening. Soft metal is the bane of all knives. Real knives DON'T have soft metal.

                    Now, the next question is "what is the task intended?" Do you want a medium-long sturdy blade, for piercing between the ribs to julienne an enemy sentry's heart in the middle of the night during a strategic and tactical evolution against a taliban stronghold, OR do you want a long and flexible blade to glide along the ribs of a flat-head catfish that you're filleting for dinner for the family during a holiday fishing trip?

                    Two totally different knives, for two totally different uses, and each requiring the same two parameters. Edge, and Ribs. In two different ways. And those aren't the only two parameters that exist. There are many more.

                    So, after all that blathering diatribe, I'll retort back to the lumberjack OP's question, and ask:

                    "What is a good knife for (fill in this blank)?"

                    Do you want to talk about Rockwell C, length, height, thickness, hilt, handle, pommel, sheath, edge, dual-edged, serrations, shape, color, rolled metal, folded metal, forged metal, cast metal, sintered metal, stamped metal, water-quenched, oil-quenched, ice-quenched, salt-quenched, bare metal, coated, hinged, partial-tang, full-tang, screwed-handle, riveted-handle, molded-handle, or anything else?

                    Ceramics and polymers aside, of course.
                    God Bless, Stay Safe, and Remember! Go big, or go home.
                    My own "Good Guy List": http://forum.snipershide.com/firearm...ml#post1761755

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                    • #60
                      Another vote for the Esse if you want to spend the money on it. The Mora knives are great. They are cheap, sharp, and durable. I've had one in my backpacking kit for years. They also do not weigh much vs their strength. For a hiking or bugout kit weight becomes an issue when you have to hump it all over the place.

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                      • #61
                        A goddamn Randall or a Winkler, enough said.

                        I prefer a small tomahawk myself. Winkler makes a couple that are impossible to beat. Expensive but worth it.

                        But to be honest, a $40 Ka-Bar has seen by far the most use.

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