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Boyd's Tacticool Stock Modification . . . another DIY project

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  • Boyd's Tacticool Stock Modification . . . another DIY project

    I've you've been visiting this particular board much you may remember my thread on modifying a Bell and Carlson stock . . .

    http://forum.snipershide.com/snipers...ification.html

    Well, that was my match rifle. Since that project, I've slowly been accumulating the pieces to put together a match rifle for my son whose 13 years old. A friend of mine provided a donor action and barrel - a Savage 10FP with a stainless steel fluted barrel, chambered in .223. I added an aftermarket recoil lug and detachable bottom metal from Savage. Since we didn't have a lot of money to spend on a stock, we opted for a Boyd's Tacticool. Priced at about $100, it wasn't a bad choice to keep the project rolling. I installed pillars and bedded the action to the stock using Accraglass. A fair amount of work was required during the bedding prep to ensure that all five rounds would feed reliably from the magazine. It was definitely not a "drop-in" fit.

    Once we had the action properly bedded, we began looking for a suitable optic. Trying to stay value-minded, I kept leaning toward the SWFA line-up of fixed-power scopes. I have had both 10x and 20x versions in the past and each proved to be a worthwhile investment. The 20x had been mounted atop a Barrett 50 BMG and was useful for 1000 yard matches. Where we shoot, however, the mirage quickly takes over during the morning matches. That, and I figured that it would be a bit much for our local matches which max out at about 600 yards. A week or so ago I was able to pick up a used SWFA 12x scope with TPS rings for a good price.



    With the scope mounted in the low TPS rings, my son and I are both unable to get a good view through the scope while maintaining proper cheek weld. We took the rifle to the range this morning and ran 15 shots through it just to check the bedding job and see if the rifle would shoot. We were both shooting MOA groups with the rifle paired with some 69gr. factory match ammo. With some more break-in, and maybe some handloading, it should do even better.

    This afternoon we began work modifying the cheek of the stock - pretty much following the steps used previously on the Bell and Carlson. Instead of drawing the profile of the cut on the stock with a pencil, I simply laid it out with blue painters tape. I found that technique to work really well - for visualizing the cut and for also following the cut line with the blade. Next, I made a right angle jig to hold the stock. Once the stock was leveled and secure, I cut out the cheek piece on the band saw. After some light sanding of the stock and cheek piece we laid out the locations for the stop collars. Finding the center of the stock was easy as it contained 23 layers of even-thickness laminate. I counted in to the center piece of laminate and center punched it. Since the stop collars are 3/4" in diameter, I chucked up a matching Forstner bit in the drill press. A level vial with double stick tape was secured to the stock to ensure that it set level on the drill press table.



    A second level kept us drilling square to the stock in all aspects. While I held everything steady, my son plunged the bit into the stock.



    After drilling the 3/4" holes deep enough to accommodate the stop collars, we moved onto drilling the holes that would allow the riser rods some room to move. We drilled these holes slightly over sized, which really wasn't necessary. The holes will eventually fill with epoxy and will be drilled out later on. When they are drilled out, only a 3/8" bit can be used due to the collar's inner diameter. In hindsight, one could probably just drill for the stop collar, epoxy it in place as I've done here, then drill the counter-bored 3/8" hole.



    Next up, drill 1/4" access holes for the height adjustment. Using a square, I extended the center lines of each original hole drilled for the stop collars down the side of the stock After center punching the location of these holes it was back to the drill press.





    Next, we installed the collars and ensured that the access holes were in line with the set screw threads. We simply installed some 1/4" bolts to be sure.



    I wanted to make sure that the stop collars held securely in the stock, so the first step to accomplish this was to undercut the 3/4" holes a bit. I used a Dremel tool with a wood-cutting bit to do this.



    I also clamped each stop collar in my vise, released it, turned it slightly, clamped it again, and repeated. This effectively knurled the stop collar, again, providing some gripping surface. I prepped the stop collars for installation by cleaning them with lacquer thinner. Using a q-tip, I applied paste wax to the inside of the stop collar and the threads. I taped off the stock to protect it from excess epoxy and coated the exposed wood with paste wax. The areas coated with paste wax should prevent any lock-up in areas where it isn't desired.



    Two sections of 3/8" rod and the two 1/4" bolts were used to secure the stop collars in place while the Marine Tex epoxy cured.

    Last edited by Ranger413; 08-31-2014, 09:16 PM.

  • #2
    After allowing the Marine Tex time to set up, I sanded off the extra. I then made small locator pins out of short sections of the 3/8" rod. I sharpened the rod on the grinder, a somewhat flattened point.



    I set the cheek piece on top of the sock and held it in place with an even reveal. I had my son lightly tap on the cheek piece with a small hammer. The resulting transfers were perfect. Each fell exactly on the middle piece of laminate. We then leveled the cheek piece on the drill press and bored 25/64" holes for the riser rods. We over-bored for a couple of reasons; one, to allow adequate space for epoxy and, two, to give some wiggle room in case things weren't perfectly square.



    Using my cordless drill and some sandpaper, I dressed up the riser rods just a bit. I used 120, 220, 320, and finally 400 grit paper to give them a nice brushed finish.



    Using the same technique to knurl the collars, I clamped the first 1/2" inch or so of the riser rods in the vise several times. Hopefully this ensures that they will provide some "bite" for the epoxy.



    All that was left was to install the cheek piece. I began by prepping the surface of the stock cut and the cheek riser. I didn't want epoxy to adhere to these surfaces so I coated them with some paste wax. Using a q-tip, I cleaned the interior of the freshly drilled holes with lacquer thinner and did the same to the knurled portions of each riser rod. I then mixed up another small batch of Marine Tex, inserted into the holes in the cheek piece, and taped everything in place. Tomorrow morning we'll see what we've got.

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    • #3
      Lookin good. I may have to do this to mine.

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      • #4
        Want to do the same to my stock. My fabrication skills are not good enough to try on my own.

        Can't wait to see the end results.

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        • #5
          Got it all put together and the Duracoat Tactical Black has had a couple of days to cure up. It's a bit on the flat side and this may be due to my aging hardener. The mix ratio was spot on, but the hardener is getting a little more viscous then when new. I think I've had it for over a year now.

          I had my son lay on the floor and close his eyes as he made a cheek weld. Once he opened 'em up, we made the necessary adjustment, working toward a clear view through the scope. We repeated this several times until we got the it right. I've purchased small 3/8" inside diameter nylon sleeves to slip over the riser rods and maintain the height. This works well with the mod I did to the comb on my Bell & Carlson, especially when removing and replacing the cheek piece to clean the bore. I think I might opt instead for some metal sleeves that are silver. This'll keep with our black and silver theme we have going here (no, we're not Raiders fans). I'll post up my work on those once I get them trimmed to the correct size.

          Here's what we've got so far . . .



          Last edited by Ranger413; 09-03-2014, 06:59 PM.

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          • #6
            That looks really good. Might have to have mine done. How much would you charge to do mine!?

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            • #7
              I picked up some 3/8" inside diameter, zinc-plated steel sleeves at Lowe's today.



              I measured the height needed and cut each sleeve slightly oversized with a hacksaw. I then chucked them in the drill press and lowered the spindle, pressing the cut portion of the sleeve onto a piece of coarse sandpaper. I repeated this until both sleeves measured the correct length.



              I chucked each sleeve into my hand drill and used some files to clean up the inside and outside of the sleeve where I had made the cut. The finished product takes some stress off of the small set screws and also eliminates the need to reset the height of the cheek piece if it is removed for cleaning.







              My son's rifle (the black and silver rifle in .223) and my rifle (green and gray in .308) ready for the next match.

              Last edited by Ranger413; 09-06-2014, 01:49 PM.

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              • #8
                Looks amazing...but where is the DIY part of this? You could easily charge for this

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by usp45ct View Post
                  Looks amazing...but where is the DIY part of this? You could easily charge for this
                  If I began doing this for others, what would be a reasonable price to charge for such a service? In other words, what would you be willing to pay for this mod?
                  Last edited by Ranger413; 09-13-2014, 05:27 PM.

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                  • #10
                    I could see you charging $50-$75 for this mod, plus the cost for shipping. If you ever decide to do this for others let me know. I have the Tacticool stock for a Marlin XT-22 that I would love to have this done to. I'm pretty handy and all but don't have any of the required tools to accomplish this. Great job.

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                    • #11
                      He's already done the work and showed us how we can repeat.

                      DIY forum. Attempt it yourself, nothing that you can't fix with Devcon

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                      • #12
                        WOW thats a great mod.... gonna practice on a cheap stock

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                        • #13
                          WOW thats a great mod.... gonna practice on a cheap stock

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                          • #14
                            Great Work!!

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                            • #15
                              i'm so impressed, looks fantastic..can't wait to hear how it shoots.
                              i really commend you, not only on the quality of the work but on the quality of your relationship with your son. Very cool

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                              • #16
                                That's a helluva job right there. Very well put together.
                                Midget Porn Rocks

                                USS Constellation (CV-64) 80-83 / NAS Key West (Boca Chica) 83-85 / NSGA Homestead AFB 85-87 / USS Midway (CV-41) 87-90 TRUSTY SHELLBACK Since 1981

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                                • #17
                                  Very, very nicely done!

                                  Though I have to wonder what Tibor-rex thinks of it?

                                  Just kidding.

                                  Beautiful job on that.

                                  And charge? $50 - 75 for the mod? Try $100 per hour to do that kind of work. The price of craftsmanship.

                                  Cheers,

                                  Sirhr
                                  Quidvis recte factum quamvis humile praeclarum

                                  Oderint dum metuant

                                  "You went full nerd with that reference." Thanks, I will wear that as a badge of honor!

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                                  • #18
                                    Good Point. Did you do a before and after weigh of that stock? Just wondering what the weight increase was. From the way it looks you have done it, it may be lighter than a lot of other methods.

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