Historically there have been three basic types of Anti-Seize on the market:
Copper base anti-seize offers good corrosion protection on all kinds of steel, but not stainless steel. Copper on stainless steel creates an inter-crystaline corrosion, which can make actual stainless steel parts crack and break. This is why the nuclear power plants do not allow copper with any material which comes in contact with the stainless steel parts.
Temperature Range: 2200° F
Aluminum as a base material for Anti-Seize is good for use on stainless steel, but cannot be used on carbon steel, due to the fact that when it comes in contact with an electrolyte it becomes an anode and since this anode is extremely small in volume compared to the large cathode of the steel, it usually deteriorates quickly, leaving no protection at all on the steel surface. Corrosion therefore takes place at a higher rate of speed, as if no anti-seize would have been present.
Temperature Range: 1470° F
Nickel has been used extensively in Anti-Seize materials, because it has good anti-seize and corrosion protection for both steel and stainless steel. However, nickel has been for many years, on the list of carcinogens ( cancer producing products ) and should not be used in applications where nickel based anti-seize is used on materials handled in workshops.
Temperature Range: 2500° F
DEPAC METAL-FREE ANTI-SEIZE
Depac Metal-Free Anti-Seize can be used in all applications, is free of any hazardous metal particles, is nontoxic, and is totally environmentally friendly.
Temperature Range: Subzero to 2500° F
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I've used moly-fortified automotive grease, NECO Moly-Slide, and Brownells Barrel Assembly Paste. Never had an issue with any of the three when a customer brings a rifle that I built back in for a new bbl. I remember taking my Nesika K Palma rifle to a local smith a few years before I started doing my own bbl work. The action, recoil lug, & bbl were all stainless, and evidently, the smith who built it for me didn't spare the torque when he put it together, because my local smith had a heckuva time getting it apart. A little grease of almost any type would've been a good thing in this case...
Not sure lube and anti-seize are ment for two different things as i have used them on parts over years of manufacturing.
Basically lube for moving parts cleaned ocasionaly, or disassembled frequently.
Anti-seize for longer assembly and non moving parts.
Anti-seize would make a bad lubricant.
For 6-7$ worth of easily obtained product I would not risk the disassembly hassles, have been there done that on
Military (things) that were ruined by same mistake! ! !
Some very expensive things because some guy used the first thing found in the chemical cabinet.
Resist the temptation you will never get mad at a job done rite.