Timing muzzle brake....peel washer vs crush washer vs locking nut, which is best?

Sep 7, 2013
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#1
I've been looking at a bunch of muzzle brakes for a .308 5/8x24tpi .750 barrel Sig rifle.

The self timing muzzle brakes look great but they're so expensive. there are a bunch of muzzle brakes out there that do not have self threading design. I'm sorry to say that my pocketbook won't allow for the nicest options.

If i get a non self timing muzzle brake (looking at the new surefire pro comp and the new jp enterprise 3 port compensator models, they both run for less than 100 dollars), which timing method is advocated, a peel washer vs crush washer or a locking nut.

The JP comes with a crush washer but some competitor sites suggest that crush washers should be avoided. Some of the older sites i reviewed show people using peel washers (interestingly i can't find that option on Brownells), then on Amazon i saw a couple of companies advertising lock nuts.

Would sure appreciate any help and advice as to how most appropriately to proceed.

I don't want to be penny foolish but if i could get a nice compensator that won't break the bank that would really help.
 

spife7980

Full Member
Feb 10, 2017
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Central TX
#2
For a brake that you won't be mounting a can on I think you would be fine either way. Obviously shims or a peel washer would be better than a crush but I also doubt jp would include it if it was dangerous.
 

SRPowah

Sergeant of the Hide
Feb 13, 2017
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#3
I run TBAC mounts for my brakes and they recommend a peel washer due to suppressor use.

BUT if you look at TBAC's pure brake w/o suppressor mount, they say it is timed with a crush washer. To me, that says crush washers are fine on brakes. I will personally run peel washers regardless.
 

Strykervet

Resident Phoenix Eye and Dim Mak Instructor
Jun 5, 2011
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#4
You don't use crush washers to mount suppressors because they don't crush uniformly and can increase run out. NO mount I've ever seen has ever come with a crush washer. None.

I prefer the thin washers you stack (I always fuck up peel washers, get cut on 'em, etc. --I hate 'em).

Over torqueing is another thing a lot of people do to suppressor mounts.

No can, no problem though.

I've taken to having some brakes cut to match the barrel. Care has to be take because the threads will deform some the first few times it's used so it has to be cut slightly out of spec, but once in use they go on and off without any shim or washer. I did this for a .50 that I use a thread on can for and didn't want to fuck with washers when swapping between them.
 
Sep 7, 2013
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#5
Strykervet, i too had some reservations regarding the use of crush washers and yet several reputable manufacturers relate and often include the use of crush washers...specifically the JP Enterprise 3 port system. Hence the query.

I do very much appreciate everyone's thoughts. I'm rather new to this and want to do what is sound/appropriate.
 
Jul 28, 2017
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#6
If you plan on removing the break time to time, don't use a crush washer. While you may be able to get away with using it a few times on a new washer, it is not a good idea, you should be using a new crush washer each time. Every manufacturers instructions or military TM I have ever seen that has a crush washer says to never reuse, new one every time you take it off and put it back on.
If you plan on having this break on long term do not use a crush washer as most will relax over time and become loose. I can not even guess how many M16 muzzle breaks I have unscrewed by hand during pre-firing inspections for this reason.
If the MB is also a suppressor mount, do not use a crush washer. There is a few reasons; but this is the biggest one; don't do it.

Like mentioned higher up in the thread, I hate peel washers but they work fine if done right. Mostly dislike them as it is easy to accidentally to peel of two shims when you mean to do one and I have cut my self so many times on those impromptu razor blades.

Stacking shims are fine, locking nuts with brakes that come with one are fine. If able to be turned and timed to the barrel though, that is what I would do. If done right it can look like it is part of the barrel and it is kind of the best of all worlds.
 
Sep 7, 2013
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#8
Thanks everyone, that helps.

Hopefully there will be a good Labor Day sale and i'll complement to MB with either shims or crush washers.

I really appreciate the help.
 

mcameron

Sergeant of the Hide
Nov 17, 2011
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#9
Eh....ive been using crush washers for years....never had an issue......i dont know what all the hubbub is about....
 
Sep 7, 2013
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#13
Thanks everyone, just purchased a SureFire PROCOMP-762-5/8-24 muzzle brake, I've now got some peel washers and shims from a friend and will give it a go. Can't wait to try it out. Hope getting the flash hider off isn't too much of a to do. Also hope the adjoining shooting positions don't hate me but i just have to try to decrease some of the recoil, it is really taking its toll on me.
 

-Time-

Mediocre Marksman
May 6, 2017
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#14
My go to is the precision armament accu-washer kit. Shims come "numbered" and it only takes one, vs stacking multiple. Just a personal preference thing. I doubt you'd have any problem with the thin shims
 
Sep 7, 2013
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#17
that looks like a great system...elegant. i'm hoping i'll get away with one shim or washer...we'll see, brake should be here this weekend. finally found a good load for the rifle. interested to see if it will continue to work as well with the new muzzle brake.
 
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