Tikka T3 Thread

Airw4ves

Sergeant of the Hide
Oct 10, 2014
106
13
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Canada
Looking at picking up a Tikka Lite SS for a lightweight hunting build. Will be going in a Hi-Tec Composites stock, and will likely be rebarreled to .280AI in a few years when I step up from deer hunting to some larger animals. Im wondering about the recoil luv, whether to go with a Lumley Arms Titanium, or a Mountain Tac SS. The reason I ask is, will the Titanium deform over time? And is the weight savings of going Titanium worth it, or should I stick to the SS? This is meant to be an all weather gun, that I dont have to worry about should the weather turn.
 

Soulezoo

Sergeant of the Hide
Jun 4, 2018
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I am so impressed with my Tac A1. Went out for load development over the weekend. 150 rounds expended, 2 bullets (143 eld-x, 140 RDF) 2 powders and varying overall length, largest 5 shot group was one inch, average just under 1/2". Several best groups were bug holes. It was just so consistent.
Hate loading those magazines though. Saved a couple of hot loads for 300 yards. Just under 2" with swirling 4-8 mph winds from 3:30.
 
Dec 5, 2007
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Norway
Looking at picking up a Tikka Lite SS for a lightweight hunting build. Will be going in a Hi-Tec Composites stock, and will likely be rebarreled to .280AI in a few years when I step up from deer hunting to some larger animals. Im wondering about the recoil luv, whether to go with a Lumley Arms Titanium, or a Mountain Tac SS. The reason I ask is, will the Titanium deform over time? And is the weight savings of going Titanium worth it, or should I stick to the SS? This is meant to be an all weather gun, that I dont have to worry about should the weather turn.
Don't know if titanium will deform over time, although I doubt it. As for the weight, the recoil lug is so small that you won't notice any difference. The stainless lug weighs about 20 grams. Go with whichever you feel comfortable with.
 
Likes: Airw4ves

Airw4ves

Sergeant of the Hide
Oct 10, 2014
106
13
18
Canada
Don't know if titanium will deform over time, although I doubt it. As for the weight, the recoil lug is so small that you won't notice any difference. The stainless lug weighs about 20 grams. Go with whichever you feel comfortable with.
Perfect, makes it easier buying all my parts from one place
Thanks!
 

Wyzrd

Harder than a coffin nail
Feb 13, 2017
2,036
66
48
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Just have to show off the newest member of the family. Bought off another Hide member...Specs are:

Tikka T3X action
26” PVA Prefit Rock Creek barrel (light palma contour) & Barrel Nut from PVA
Seekins Precision ATC brake
Elay Precision trigger spring (1.3 lb pull)
Sako green KRG Bravo with spigot mount
Atlas/ADM with HHC Talon feet
20 moa scope rail
ARC M10 scope rings
Vortex Razor HD Gen2 3-18 with ebr 2c mil reticle & SV-3 throw lever
Flatline Ops bubble level

So far it shoots awesome, but I’ll probably chop the barrel to 22” to make it a little less cumbersome for hunting. Next up is a titanium bolt shroud and bolt handle from Sterk.






446695C0-27E2-4960-BCF3-993885CC16BF.jpeg 5D08D360-E361-4387-86D2-694DF640668B.jpeg
 

Scarface26

knuckle dragger
Feb 14, 2017
207
16
18
Southeast OK
A few questions on Tikkas, and if this should be its own thread please let me know and I'll re-post.
1. Are the T3's and T3x's all long actions?
2. Are the T3's and X's all mag fed? and aside from the gent who posted above, how common are magazine issues?
3. How hard is it to change bolt faces or bolts? (would like the option to switch barrels)
4. Are there any issues particular to Tikkas to be aware of - light primer strikes, failures to eject, feeding issues, etc?
5. If you had it to do again, would you still buy Tikka or save up and go custom? Kind of a Ford v. Chevy question, but I figured I'm asking the group who probably owns both.

Thanks and God bless America.
 
Mar 8, 2017
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Taylorsville Utah
A few questions on Tikkas, and if this should be its own thread please let me know and I'll re-post.
1. Are the T3's and T3x's all long actions?
2. Are the T3's and X's all mag fed? and aside from the gent who posted above, how common are magazine issues?
3. How hard is it to change bolt faces or bolts? (would like the option to switch barrels)
4. Are there any issues particular to Tikkas to be aware of - light primer strikes, failures to eject, feeding issues, etc?
5. If you had it to do again, would you still buy Tikka or save up and go custom? Kind of a Ford v. Chevy question, but I figured I'm asking the group who probably owns both.

Thanks and God bless America.
Read post 3273. It answers most of your questions and I wrote it up as a help from my research. It all depends on what you want to do.
1. Bolt stop changes.
2 yes. Different styles though. Depends. Sometimes you need to make minor minor modifications (like bending a spring in mags, adjusting the adjustments in aftermarket stocks, or light sand/ polish of feedlips) but mostly in aftermarket parts.
3 $400
4 not really
5 according to frank Tikkas are great starting rifles.
 
Jan 1, 2014
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One more question: Is the CTR the model to start with or one of the super varmint variants. Starting with a 6.5cm barrel for ringing steel to 1000.

God bless America again.
It really depends on if you plan on going to a new stock. If the goal is to shoot it for a while first, then yes a CTR is the way to go IMO. But if the goal is to change things out fairly quickly, I'd find the least expensive model you can find. These days, I'm just looking for any Tikka T3 action since the goal is to immediately convert to a switchbarrel 6BR.
 
Mar 27, 2014
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A few questions on Tikkas, and if this should be its own thread please let me know and I'll re-post.
1. Are the T3's and T3x's all long actions?
2. Are the T3's and X's all mag fed? and aside from the gent who posted above, how common are magazine issues?
3. How hard is it to change bolt faces or bolts? (would like the option to switch barrels)
4. Are there any issues particular to Tikkas to be aware of - light primer strikes, failures to eject, feeding issues, etc?
5. If you had it to do again, would you still buy Tikka or save up and go custom? Kind of a Ford v. Chevy question, but I figured I'm asking the group who probably owns both.

Thanks and God bless America.

1. Like said above, just change out the bolt stop and you go from short to long action.
2. All Tikka's have a magazine of such, whether its the factory plastic or CTR mag, or you go aftermarket bottom metal to run AICS mags.
3. Around $400 for a new bolt, but I've never seen just bolts sold so you'd likely have to buy a whole new rifle just for the bolt if you wanted to do a switch barrel.
4. No issues that I'm aware of.
5. I love my Tikka's, they are a great starting rifle but I'm getting to the point where I'm strongly considering selling both of my rifles and going to custom actions after shooting with the owners of Lone Peak Arms here out of Utah. Nothing against the Tikka, this is just my opinion of it but I've about stretched them out as far as I dare and my next step is a custom action.
 
Likes: viking78
Mar 27, 2014
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The only reason I'm sticking with Tikka's for the next while is because I just put it into a J Allen. Once I feel that I've gotten my money out of it, I will switch to a custom action.
 
Who did the threading? Did you have to cut down the barrel at all or is there a decent shoulder behind the threads with a 9/16-24 rate?

I have a T3 lite in .30-06 that I'm considering having threaded. Suppressed hunting seems so much more pleasant.
Tornado Technologies threaded it, no cut back. There wasn't much of a shoulder but enough to get a TBAC brake on it and then use my ultra 7.
 
Jun 13, 2017
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Nashville, TN
Has anyone taken a picture of what they cut out of the factory stock to free float the barrel on a ctr?

I feel like I’ve cut out a ton but it’s still touching . I guess I can keep sanding (with dremel) but I’m starting to think it may have been a bad idea since I really didn’t need too but was bored hah!
 
Jan 14, 2014
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Olar SC 29843
Anyone have a good load workup for my tikka tac A1 6.5 CM. I have a shit ton of 142 SMK's laying around.

Thanks!
I’ve found that the tikkas I have in 6.5 creed love, the Hornady 143 eldx, lapua brass, CCI 450’s, and 41.5 gr of h4350, .080 off the lands. I really wanted them to like the VLDS, but i tried and couldn’t get them where I wanted. This load yields me pretty consistent .250 to .340 5 shot groups
I would start low and work your way up, but I see absolutely no pressure signs.
 
Likes: Sako man
I have a ton of Hornaday brass, 142 SMK's and a bunch of H4350, so I'm ready to rock. I guess I will start at 40.5 and work to 41.5 which I think is the max recommendation. I used to reload 142smks in my 260 using target, it would stretch out the primer pockets but I was getting unbelievable .15 to .2 accuracy, bug holes. Thanks for the tips.
 

milanuk

F'ing nuke
Mar 23, 2002
1,481
34
48
45
Wenatchee WA
Is there another forum or list that caters specifically to Tikka T3 stuff? Lots of good info here for sure, just curious if there is something out there equivalent to savageshooters.com, etc. but for Tikka?
 

Stooxie

New Hide Member
Oct 11, 2018
19
15
3
There is a tikkashooters.com but it has very little traffic.

It would be nice if there could be a sub-forum here with some finer grained categories. Having 3,300 posts in a single thread isn't very workable.

-Stooxie
 
Likes: Graywolf.260

milanuk

F'ing nuke
Mar 23, 2002
1,481
34
48
45
Wenatchee WA
Okie dokie then ;)

I've started stalking the local pawn/second-hand stores and a few online places looking for a 'budget' Tikka to do a build off of. Basically a donor action, and the rest of it I could care less about (unless I happen to find a T3X CTR for a song). How much of a market is there for used stocks, barrels, etc. from base model Tikka hunting rifles? I don't really care if I get a lot for the bits n pieces, but I'd like to defray the cost of the action as much as possible.

The best deal I've seen so far locally is $450 for a scoped T3 .270 Win (unless i get really lucky on an auction)... not great, but if I can get another hundred out of the stock and barrel, I'd be satisfied. Is this feasible, or am I dreaming?
 
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Stooxie

New Hide Member
Oct 11, 2018
19
15
3
There's not much market for the synthetic stocks but there definitely is for the OEM wood stocks (hunter, forest and certainly laminate). If you buy this:
https://www.eurooptic.com/tikka-t3-forest-243-win-10in-twist-224in-bbl-jrtf615.aspx
You can easily sell the stock for $120 shipped.

Even if you throw the barrel in the trash you've got a perfectly great action and trigger for $375. Compare that to a "trued" Remington action that will be $500 to $800 before you've even thought about a trigger.

The fact that the plastic trigger guard and mags work so darn well means you don't have to dive straight into the AICS abyss, although many do anyway.

As for removing the barrel, LRI can do it for you for $50. They did my first one and then I just bought myself a barrel vice and action wrench and did it myself. Wasn't hard at all, zero scuffs on the barrel or receiver.

I'm in the middle of a 6.8 SPC II Tikka build. That ought to blow everyone's mind when it's done. All I need to complete it is the barrel.

-Stooxie
 

Stooxie

New Hide Member
Oct 11, 2018
19
15
3
Here's what I did to get the barrel off. I am no gunsmith but I've been on the planet for a little while and I like to think I have some foresight on how to do things and I was willing to give it a go.

First I put the barreled action vertically in a soft jawed vice and applied a heap of Kroil to the inside of the barrel threads. Also applied some to where the barrel shoulder met the receiver face. Left it there for a couple days.

I bought a Mechforce barrel vice and a Wheeler #1 (Mauser/flat) action wrench. The Mechforce is ok, the leather pads didn't do shit in terms of holding the barrel. Three sheets of plain white printer paper, on the other hand, held the barrel rock solid. I also used a single sheet of paper between the action wrench flats and the receiver. I oriented the pole side flat to the top of the receiver and the bolt side flat to the bottom. The wrench was just behind the recoil lug which provided lots of surface area. Tightened down the bolts enough so that it was good and secure but I wasn't compressing the threads (as far as I know).

Now, because I didn't have contoured inserts for the barrel vice, here's what I did. I put the barrel in the vice about 8" back from the receiver, where the contour was mostly flat. Of course having it stick out that far means there is a lot of flex which kills the efficiency of the action wrench torque. However, very simple solution: I cut a 1"x1" piece of wood to the right length to fit between the floor and the barrel, supporting it immediately in front of the receiver. That removed the flex and restored the efficiency of the wrench.

Moment of truth... With the pole mostly horizontal I leaned down on the wrench with some weight, then some more, and then POP, the barrel unscrewed. Almost seemed anticlimactic! It definitely did not take all my weight or what I thought was a ton of torque. The threads were coated in quite a bit of anti-seize from the factory.

Taking off the vice and action wrench, I confirmed that no marks were left on the barrel or receiver. I was pleasantly surprised.

I'm sure the real smiths are laughing but this worked for me and the sense of accomplishment is a major bonus.

ETA: as always, YMMV. If you have any reservations just ship it off to LRI, they have dedicated tooling for this kind of stuff and did a perfect job on my first Tikka barrel removal. Even with that cost you're still way ahead. I figured I'd put that cost toward the vice and wrench and see how I faired.

-Stooxie
 

Stooxie

New Hide Member
Oct 11, 2018
19
15
3
As for prefits, I think the Tikka lends itself well to this. The flat receiver sides mean you can hold it in a household vice using leather strips (or whatever) as pads. The recommended barrel nut torque seems to vary between 40 and 70 pounds feet (based on what various pre-fit vendors have on their websites) so it's very manageable by the consumer, IF you have decent tools.

The barrel nut meets the receiver right where the barrel shoulder would be so it works out perfectly.

So far my Criterion prefit has been 0.3 to 0.7 MOA with all factory ammo, depending on load. The 120gr Nosler BT prints the smallest groups for this barrel, but all of them are far beyond adequate accuracy for deer.

-Stooxie
 
Apr 8, 2009
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Southern Alabama
Where can you get a two stage Tikka Tac1A trigger and / or when is an aftermarket two stage trigger assembly going to hit the streets ?

I'm getting closer by the day to ordering a CTR - probably going to happen during Black Friday Weekend sales so that I can negotiate with my local gun store for an extra 10 % off to price match Brownell's sale prices.
 
Sep 14, 2011
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I have a ton of Hornaday brass, 142 SMK's and a bunch of H4350, so I'm ready to rock. I guess I will start at 40.5 and work to 41.5 which I think is the max recommendation. I used to reload 142smks in my 260 using target, it would stretch out the primer pockets but I was getting unbelievable .15 to .2 accuracy, bug holes. Thanks for the tips.
I've gone a bit over 43 of 4350, work up to it though, every barrel is different.
 
Sep 14, 2011
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.260 Rem has a bit more case capacity than 6.5 Creedmoor, 43 grains of H4350 should be above max in a CM
I've run two barrels at 42.9 and the hornady brass has several firings on it. Tossed a few pieces but primer pockets are still good. Funny thing my most recent barrel is shooting just as fast at 41.7. :) Every barrel is different
 

Kmahow2

New Hide Member
Nov 5, 2018
1
0
1
I’m new hear but I’ve been shooting a Tikka T3 Tactical 308 for a long time. I reinforced the standard stock & inlet it for an AICS mag bottom metal. It’s been that way for a few years now & shoots really well with the right ammo.

I have considered a chassis kit for sometime, but they are quite expensive here in the UK & I chose the 20” so I could use it in the field as well as the range. So I liked the look of the GRS stocks & finally got to try one in the flesh a couple of weeks back when another shooter brought a Berserk to the range.

Whilst doing some research on these I came across the new Bifrost which seemed a better stock from the info available, so after acquiring one & inletting it for my AICS mag bottom metal, here is the result.

63356CAD-98AB-4A49-BA78-C46EE11B616C.jpeg

Feels great, hope to see how it shoots tomorrow, but the weather is looking bad ☹️

Enjoy
 
How are you guys adjusting the trigger on the TAC A1’s - removing barreled action from chassis, or does it just take a long Allen wrench through the mag well until you find the bolt head?
Just the long leg of an Allen wrench. It's not tight, lightened it two 1/4 rotations, counterclockwise. Will leave it that way for a few firings.

You only have to remove the action if you want to replace spring. Easier than I thought. Have 1-2lb spring but will wait to replace.