Tikka T3 Thread

bab029

Hammer Mechanic
May 16, 2011
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I like almost everything about the Bravo, but the warning they give you about feeding issues if you touch the magazine is no joke. Kind of limits the setup to backyard playing, as I would never take this type of issue into a match, let alone anything more important. Maybe KRG is working on a fix for the issue? Anyone else have a solution to it?
Adjust the trigger guard and forearm to hold the mag more securely. Had the same issue way back with my X-ray. Mags won’t drop free, but they will work.
 
Likes: SLG
Dec 22, 2017
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Finally! Can you explain how the T1x magazine/bottom metal works on an AICS chassis? Looks great!

THIS!!! With a T1X on layway and hoping to get it before the New Year its nice to see one aside from SHOT show and Euro Show Expos and such. I am hoping to drop mine into a chassis as well. Does the original mag just feed right in?

Thanks for the pics
 
Jul 6, 2011
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Hello guys.
This is not my setup, i was just playing with these two great items in the work today.
Tikka T1X trigger is super sweet straight out of the box, i did add a YoDave´s trigger sping on this one, and it did came ridiculous light, maybe 200g the pull weight, are even less, and it´s brakes down like a glass, very very nice, since there are not that much drag weight on the rimfire bolt, the feeling with the stock trigger is suberd, i bet you like it in the factory mode.
Bolt is smooth, no friction on the movement, but if you want to make it even better, i would do polish the bolt areas, to make it silky smooth.

I took more pictures how the system work with the T1X action and AICS magazine working rifle chassis.
Like you all know, there are no magazine for Tikka T1X yet, since there are no T1X in the USA yet, so no one who makes custom chassis and parts for rifles, have not get these rifles on to they hands, and take a look, how the feeding would be done.
But i did discovered when i mounted this Tikka T1X action to the KRG Bravo chassis, that you could get it work with the factory magazine, but you deffo would need some kind of adapter to hold the magazine in the magwell, but i just drop these photos here, and you can look the way it sits there.
There is magazine follower in the action, same type like CZ 455 has, that must be remove, well i had to remove it, or the action did not fit in to the chassis.

Here´s 7 pictures.
tikka t1x 2.jpg
 

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kevinsachs

Kevin Sachs
Feb 27, 2018
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Tikka T3 Action with 24” 6mm Bartlein Heavy Palma barrel with 1:7.5” Twist chambered in 6mm Creedmoor, threaded 5/8x24, fluted and nitride coated finished with Area 419 Hellfire Brake. Pillar and epoxy bedded McMillan A3 stock with Mountain Tactical AICS bottom metal. Mountain Tactical Gen II 20moa scope base, Nightforce Ultralite 34mm rings, Nightforce ATACR 5-25X56mm F1 Zero Stop .250 MOA Digillum PTL MOAR C545 scope with Accuracy 1st Scope level.


5696A4F4-149F-4954-B9C1-0B7B8281419B_jpeg.jpg
 
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SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
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Thanks much Viking!


Anyone using a Mcmillian Game Scout, with the factory mags? Been thinking of a stock option, and am inclined to always go with AICS mags, but Mcmillian has stocks set up for the factory mags. Thoughts?
 

dannySH

Sergeant of the Hide
Feb 13, 2017
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Thanks much Viking!


Anyone using a Mcmillian Game Scout, with the factory mags? Been thinking of a stock option, and am inclined to always go with AICS mags, but Mcmillian has stocks set up for the factory mags. Thoughts?
I have one and use it as a hunting rig with factory mags. Fitting and finishing is awesome.
You can always buy a CDI bottom metal for AICS mags and Jeff (the owner of CDI Precision Gunwerks) will do the inletting for free.
 
Likes: SLG
Jul 6, 2011
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Tikka T3 Action with 24” 6mm Bartlein Heavy Palma barrel with 1:7.5” Twist chambered in 6mm Creedmoor, threaded 5/8x24, fluted and nitride coated finished with Area 419 Hellfire Brake. Pillar and epoxy bedded McMillan A3 stock with Mountain Tactical AICS bottom metal. Mountain Tactical Gen II 20moa scope base, Nightforce Ultralite 34mm rings, Nightforce ATACR 5-25X56mm F1 Zero Stop .250 MOA Digillum PTL MOAR C545 scope with Accuracy 1st Scope level.


View attachment 6921255
Are you going to do adjustable cheek rest on this beauty?
 

SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
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Would you be comfortable sharing what you put into it in total? Feel free to PM... and I wouldn’t expect you to share these details; you’ve already been helpful in what you’ve posted

Thank you very much!
No big deal. The basic gun was undef $600. Only that high because i wanted ss, and an 8 twist. Plus this one came threaded already. Bravo's are under $400. Sterk is about $200 for both parts. Not strictly essential, but I wanted them. Murphy steel rail at $125.
 
Jul 6, 2011
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How do you like that new GRS stock?
I had the Berserk, and that was very nice to shoot, but it was not rigid, i tryed to make it stiffer, but still was not able to make it.
Though it shoot very well.
You might want to try N135 VV for that bullet, my CTR 308win works great with N135 and 10g Scenar.
 

AutoSWE

New Hide Member
Mar 4, 2018
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It is a completely different stock than Berserk - the Berserk as you say is not rigid at all - it bends when you preload the bipod. The Bifrost is - in my opinion - completely stiff. It is some kind of plastic with glass fiber in it, so obviously it will eventually bend, if you put extreme pressure on it. It does not have an aluminum bedding block. But before I put my action in i tried to "bend" it over my knee. I could not bend it.

It has the same ergonomics as Berserk, so if you like that stock, this is the same, but a lot stiffer. It also has new adjustments - the new ones are super good. My friend has the Berserk, and the cheek piece moves slightly - this is rock solid (granted, I have not used it for 2 years as he has, so it may start to wiggle a bit like his eventually).

Ah, thanks. I will shoot N140 for a while though - 3.5 kg in my gun safe :)
 
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SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
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Tremendously enjoying the T3 I have in .223. The Sterk stuff really adds quality and performance to a very inexpensive gun. Likewise the Bravo chassis. Hard to find room for improvement with it. My only complaint so far is the safety lever. It feels cheap, and in the Bravo chassis, it is not ergonomic at all. That's not really the guns fault, as the Bravo was not on Tikka's mind when they designed the safety. There is likely no solution for this, but given how creative some of you are, I thought I'd see if anyone felt the same way, and may have addressed the issue somehow.
 
Feb 11, 2017
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Tremendously enjoying the T3 I have in .223. The Sterk stuff really adds quality and performance to a very inexpensive gun. Likewise the Bravo chassis. Hard to find room for improvement with it. My only complaint so far is the safety lever. It feels cheap, and in the Bravo chassis, it is not ergonomic at all. That's not really the guns fault, as the Bravo was not on Tikka's mind when they designed the safety. There is likely no solution for this, but given how creative some of you are, I thought I'd see if anyone felt the same way, and may have addressed the issue somehow.
A friend sent me this Web image. If you google ASH tikka 3 position safety you should find some info. I had an action made by ASH and it was very good.
 

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Likes: SLG

ejg

Sergeant
Jul 9, 2008
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www.pse-composites.com
A friend sent me this Web image. If you google ASH tikka 3 position safety you should find some info. I had an action made by ASH and it was very good.
The rifle in the picture was mine, the ASH safety is a great feature but not the easiest to install. No Problem once understood how a Mauser type safety works but can be dangerous if fitted wrong or borderline. ASH has a little video on his website. https://buema-hochwang.de/Tikka-T3-Schlagbolzensicherung-links
Roedale in Germany also carries the ASH T3 3 pos safety as far as I know.


Regarding a t1x in a CTR/AI type stock, one is better off having a stock with separate alu mag floorplate as the original plastic floor plate can fit into the slot of a CTR or the newer Atlasworx AI floorplate inlet. On will have a gap left right of the plastic tx1 floor plate but function would be 100%.
Especially if you only want some trigger time with the 22 in your tactical CF stock . The E-Tac4 CTR Stock we make has the little inlet for the mag catch of the original plastic T3 floor plate. Also allows you to use say a long action T3 with plastic floor plate in the same stock.
edi
 

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MarinePMI

Battery Operated Grunt
Jun 3, 2010
2,483
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San Diego, Ca
The rifle in the picture was mine, the ASH safety is a great feature but not the easiest to install. No Problem once understood how a Mauser type safety works but can be dangerous if fitted wrong or borderline. ASH has a little video on his website. https://buema-hochwang.de/Tikka-T3-Schlagbolzensicherung-links
Roedale in Germany also carries the ASH T3 3 pos safety as far as I know.


Regarding a t1x in a CTR/AI type stock, one is better off having a stock with separate alu mag floorplate as the original plastic floor plate can fit into the slot of a CTR or the newer Atlasworx AI floorplate inlet. On will have a gap left right of the plastic tx1 floor plate but function would be 100%.
Especially if you only want some trigger time with the 22 in your tactical CF stock . The E-Tac4 CTR Stock we make has the little inlet for the mag catch of the original plastic T3 floor plate. Also allows you to use say a long action T3 with plastic floor plate in the same stock.
edi
Or, someone could make AICS pattern magazines to match the T-1 (similar to the Voodoo AICS .22 mags).
 
Likes: kabarNC

SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
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ejg, do you still have the gun setup with that safety? Do you like it? More ergonomic?

It looks like that would make it more ergonomic for me, but I'm not sure I want to mess with swapping the safety. I watched the video, but I think that guy is from Scotland or something, as his english was very hard to understand! :)

I have always used M70's as field guns, and love a good three position safety, but I guess I was thinking about some kind of extension for the existing Tikka safety. This may be a better way to go, if I don't just deal with it as is.
 

AutoSWE

New Hide Member
Mar 4, 2018
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Just back from the 300 m range. Tried to figure out what speed my hand loads dish out. Will plug the information I got by shooting today into JBM when I get home. Only shot 7 shots today (what was left of my hand loads). I will have to load up some more, so I can hit the range again. IMG_20180715_145144.jpg
 

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ejg

Sergeant
Jul 9, 2008
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www.pse-composites.com
Or, someone could make AICS pattern magazines to match the T-1 (similar to the Voodoo AICS .22 mags).
Yes that will probably come but still won't allow you to stick a 300wm etc. into your stock for a shot. One has the gap on the sides of the floor plate but at least one can shoot / hunt etc. Great rifles the T3, get's better if you have a few of them and swip swop bit's around depeding on hunting seasons or comps.
edi
 

ejg

Sergeant
Jul 9, 2008
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www.pse-composites.com
ejg, do you still have the gun setup with that safety? Do you like it? More ergonomic?

It looks like that would make it more ergonomic for me, but I'm not sure I want to mess with swapping the safety. I watched the video, but I think that guy is from Scotland or something, as his english was very hard to understand! :)

I have always used M70's as field guns, and love a good three position safety, but I guess I was thinking about some kind of extension for the existing Tikka safety. This may be a better way to go, if I don't just deal with it as is.
SLG, sold the rifle as I forced myself to the next project. I really liked the 3 pos safety but actually didn't really need it. The 3 pos safety acts on the firing pin which is very important for German shooters, they are somewhat brainwashed when it comes to safety, their hunting course will preach that they need at least firing pin safety or even better hand cocking system like Blaser has. :(
edi
 
My two cents and quick review on the Tikka Tac A1 6.5 creed. Going to preface this with a few comments. I am not a gun ninja or special forces SAS SOC JSOC DOD swami. But... I have been shooting rifles since I was twelve, shot competitively, and have owned custom and factory long guns since I could afford them starting over twenty five years ago. That includes, GAP's, AI's, DTA's, Sako's, Bla..Bla...and the list goes on.

Anyhow: For the money the Tikka Tac A1 is a very...very good rifle! It's not as consistent or as accurate as an AI, that said it's quite a bit lighter and a whole lot less expensive! So those of you looking to replace their AI's, it's not gonna happen. But the Tikka is easily as good as the more expensive Sako TRG 22, which I think is quite a compliment. The machining on all the parts is nearly perfect and the folding stock locks and folds to the side solidly with positivity and no play. I found the ergonomics to be fantastic and easily adjustable. The comb stays exactly where you place it once tightened down, something so many chassis get wrong. The butt pad spacer system works well. The grip is very nicely designed. The biggest ergonomic and mechanical plus if the fantastic trigger, it has a nice long fist stage that gives you loads of feedback and a crisp second stage that can be adjusted for weight through an access hole via the magazine well. The action works flawlessly and is ice skating smooth, probably one of the smoothest actions I have ever owned. Accuracy wise the gun shoots very well and seems to prefer heavier bullets. Mind you I was shooting factory ammo and not even the best stuff. The rifle really liked the Hornady 140 ELD's and shot it's tightest groups hovering around 0.34-35's, mind you this test and zeroing was performed at 100Y and still needs it's legs stretched at over 1000. The Tikka even performed ok with American Gunner 140 grain HPBT with groups between 0.5-0.75 on average. The 120 grain ammo I shot was all over the freaking map (i.e. shot like crap!) so unlike my DTA 6.5 this gun does not seem to dig lighter bullets. I suspect if I loaded for the rifle it could shoot 0.25 MOA, but that's just a guess. Over strings of ten shots the rifle seemed to get more accurate but that was probably me just getting used to things. But at least at around 80 degrees outside the rifle seemed to perform consistently even when warm out and with a hot barrel. Not sure what it would do in direct sunlight with temperatures of over 100? Could be a different story?

Bottom line: The Tac A1 is a winner! The Tikka performs very well, it makes long distance precision shooting accessible, and is a great rifle for people looking to get into the sport without the "golf squared" premium . Lastly it's a really solid rifle for people that have been around the block and want an accurate, reliable, and ergonomically excellent rifle to compliment their collection. Personally I think it totally crushes other rifles in this category and even competes with guns two to three times it's cost.

Best groups with 140 ELD Factory. 4 shot group, some shots stacked same hole 0.35MOA. Optic: SnB 5-25 MSR and AMD 34mm mount. Long distance test needed to see if accuracy can be maintained. 140 Hornady ELD seems to have good standard deviation so should perform well??? Will report once I can stretch her legs.
FullSizeRender.jpg
 
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Jul 6, 2011
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Just back from the 300 m range. Tried to figure out what speed my hand loads dish out. Will plug the information I got by shooting today into JBM when I get home. Only shot 7 shots today (what was left of my hand loads). I will have to load up some more, so I can hit the range again. View attachment 6922413
Do you have 6.5CM?

I shot this 3-shot group last summer from 300-meters with my ctr, 260rem, Norma brass, resized from 308win brass, VV N150 2,50g, CCI lr primer, colt 72mm.
I did not take the bullet diameter away from this, so it is 6,7mm smaller.
Just dont like to shoot the paper that much anymore, do it too much in the past, but you never know, maybe with the new brass i might test the new load accuracy, but when, i dont know.
300-meter.jpg
 
Likes: ruebarb
Everyone can have 1 or 2 amazingly small groups.
^This is true. A rifles accuracy should be examined empirically over a series of conditions and examples. What I posted was the best of many groups but close to an average that I think shows a propensity towards one half MOA given the correct ammo and fundamentals are employed. In this case it was extraneous to post a bunch of pictures with lots of groups, too much stuff to weed through. This said, you have to take all of these reviews/opinions and images with a grain of salt.
 

ruebarb

Sergeant of the Hide
Feb 7, 2018
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Littleton, MA
^This is true. A rifles accuracy should be examined empirically over a series of conditions and examples. What I posted was the best of many groups but close to an average that I think shows a propensity towards one half MOA given the correct ammo and fundamentals are employed. In this case it was extraneous to post a bunch of pictures with lots of groups, too much stuff to weed through. This said, you have to take all of these reviews/opinions and images with a grain of salt.
This wasn't directed at you, just in general everyone shows the best group, which is great, but I honestly want to know how everyones rifle is shooting 99% if the time.

I'm breaking in my 20" CTR in 6.5 barrel soon as my bolt comes back from DLC. Would be helpful to know what these Tikkas can actually do.

I'll contribute once the rifle and ammo is ready.
 
Mar 23, 2017
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I have pulled off .219 to sub half moa from time to time with my hand loads. Insert your typical “when I do my part” BS here...

That said, I consider myself to be a sub moa to moa shooter. For me, thats all I need for steel at distance. When I do shoot groups, I focus more on poa/poi when breaking position and going back.

A few things I have learned over the years...
-find your load/ammo that is capable of getting you close to half-moa
-zero the rifle to that load
-go shoot and enjoy!

I have spent way too much time at 100 yards trying to shoot the best groups.
 

SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
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Everyone can have 1 or 2 amazingly small groups. Let's see some strings of 5 shot group averages, that representative of the actual accuracy you can expect on any given day.
If you're concerned about what your Tikka might do on any given day, I cannot help you, but I will say that my .223 Lite has not shot a group worse than 5/8" since I got it. I shot a few groups with it on day one to zero and get a feel for it, and then I typically shoot one or two groups at every practice session. Given how light the barrel is, some of my groups were only 3 rounds, but lately all have been 5 rounds, as the gun doesn't seem to shift or open up noticeably for at least 5, maybe more. Now, granted, I've only been shooting it for a week or so, but I now have 111 rounds through it, and it seems to doing just great. I shoot either 73g bergers, or 77g smk's, both factory Federal loads. I "think" it may be good for 10 rounds even, but I have not fully tested that idea yet. It is certainly sub moa for 10 shots, but that was on steel at mid range. All in all, it has impressed me very much, and I continue to adore shooting this gun. My .223 varmint should be here Friday, so we will see if that big barrel does anything different, as I'm sure we all imagine it will.

On a related note, conventional wisdom has it that such a lite barrel will open up, very likely within the first 5 rounds. Some member here have said that their's does indeed do that. I'm not going to say that mine doesn't, but how can you tell if it i the gun or you? That is, no one I am aware of can shoot a 5 shot group as consistently small as their own 3 shot group, so is the larger group because the gun heated up, or because of the shooter?

My lite Tikka has shot several 3 shot groups in the 3/8" range. Again, limited time with this gun, so limited data to analyze. take it all with a grain of salt. My 5 shot groups have been 4/8 to 5/8". Is that me, or the gun? I would say me, as my "typical" ability with my bigger guns is 5/8" or so for 5 shots. Now, maybe that's a recoil issue, as again, pretty much everyone shoots guns with less recoil better.

My only point is, there are several things going on here, who knows for sure which is responsible. I'm sure your Tikka will perform quite well.
 
Likes: ruebarb

SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
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Also, I got my mag well tightened up, no more feeding issues. Thanks much guys!

After playing with it some more, I'm not sure the aftermarket 3 position safety will be much or an ergonomic improvement for me, so i'll stick with the factory part and make it work. Thanks again for showing me some options!
 

SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
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Posted this in the shorty thread - thought I'd add it here. Same Rifle in two different configurations. Tikka Varmint .308 chopped 17.5' - this thing is a laser with my plodding 155smk loads.

View attachment 6876474

This at 500m

View attachment 6876476

The only thumbhole stock Ive ever liked is the ai. I remember when the T6 came out and I thought it was hideous looking. After seeing your rifle in this thread a few times, I have gone 180 the other way, aesthetically speaking.

How do you like shooting and handling the T6? Seriously considering one for a tikka. Hows the balance and weight?

Awesome looking gun dude.
 
Feb 11, 2017
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The only thumbhole stock Ive ever liked is the ai. I remember when the T6 came out and I thought it was hideous looking. After seeing your rifle in this thread a few times, I have gone 180 the other way, aesthetically speaking.

How do you like shooting and handling the T6? Seriously considering one for a tikka. Hows the balance and weight?

Awesome looking gun dude.
Thanks, it's actually the T5 I have. It's easily my favourite rifle stock but then stock preference is completely subjective - I recommend getting behind a stock before building anything, it won't take long to work out what works for you and what doesn't. I float my thumb for 90% of shooting, but during unsupported, offhand or seated/kneeling stages with a sling the thumbhole assists greatly. The cost of utilising the thumbhole grip is speed, it's definitely a fraction slower to run the bolt - but again, given one can opt to float the thumb I feel the thumbhole is a nice feature to have.
 

SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
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Thanks, it's actually the T5 I have. It's easily my favourite rifle stock but then stock preference is completely subjective - I recommend getting behind a stock before building anything, it won't take long to work out what works for you and what doesn't. I float my thumb for 90% of shooting, but during unsupported, offhand or seated/kneeling stages with a sling the thumbhole assists greatly. The cost of utilising the thumbhole grip is speed, it's definitely a fraction slower to run the bolt - but again, given one can opt to float the thumb I feel the thumbhole is a nice feature to have.
That's what I get for going off memory instead of checking Manner's site :-(

Do you wish you had the T5A? What Cheekrest are you using there?

I use my thumbholes much like you do, though lately I've been shooting more and more with the thumb in the hole. Slower, but it seems a tad more consistent for me.

Thanks again.
 
Feb 11, 2017
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That's what I get for going off memory instead of checking Manner's site :-(

Do you wish you had the T5A? What Cheekrest are you using there?

I use my thumbholes much like you do, though lately I've been shooting more and more with the thumb in the hole. Slower, but it seems a tad more consistent for me.

Thanks again.
If extra weight isn't an issue for a build it probably makes sense to go for the T5A, that said the XLR cheek piece is very well made and has worked really well - it is substantially lighter than the integrated cheek hardware.
 

260284

Sergeant
Feb 15, 2017
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That's what I get for going off memory instead of checking Manner's site :-(

Do you wish you had the T5A? What Cheekrest are you using there?

I use my thumbholes much like you do, though lately I've been shooting more and more with the thumb in the hole. Slower, but it seems a tad more consistent for me.

Thanks again.
The GGS Predator and Ranger come with the adjustable cheek riser. They are similar to the T5 and have a mini-chassis. My Predator is 3.5 lbs, the Ranger is less.
 

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