Tikka T3 Thread

Sep 28, 2008
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Wondering if a few of you 6.5 Creedmoor guys could help me out with a measurement or two from you (if you are using a factory barrel).

I would like to see what others are getting for a measurement to the lands with the Hornady/Stoney Point OAL gauge (or another method) using Berger 140 Grain Hybrid or Berger 140 Grain Hunter bullets on factory barrels. I have a measurement, but I am not certain that it is correct.

Thanks in advance
 

Potss

Full Member
Feb 16, 2017
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I keep reading that Tikka uses the same action for long and short action cartridges, they just change bolt heads. Is that only for the T3x, or also for the CTRs? In other words is it possible to convert a CTR to 280 or 7mm Rem Mag for example? Or do you need to get the T3x (non-CTR) for that?
 

Thunderhorse

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 31, 2018
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Central MO
The bolt stop pertains to LA/SA, the LA stop lets the bolt travel farther back before it stops its travel. For example if you want to go from .308 to 30-06 you just need a barrel and bolt stop, I think heads are the same. To go from .308 to .223 you need a barrel and bolt head as they are both on the SA stop
 

Thunderhorse

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 31, 2018
201
63
28
Central MO
Pardon my ignorance, but is there a functional benefit to upgrading the shrouds? I notice my stock plastic one has some play to it.
Allegedly they break and fall off, though in the 11 years I had the stock plastic shroud on my Tikka I never had that happen. There has been some conjecture that if a case head ruptures it keeps gases from jetting into your face, but the reality is that a small piece of aluminum wouldn't offer any better protection. It mainly keeps dirt out of the bolt body.

I went to an aluminum one because it came as a package with my bolt handle and there is less likelihood of it breaking I guess. The main benefit though is cosmetics as you can get a variety of styles and colors, though I stayed with an aluminum replica that is black and the same shape as the original.

Sterk makes real good stuff though, and I would not hesitate to buy their stuff. I believe they will also work with you if you want something made that's not listed on their site. I am happy with my Glades Armory stuff but I have read a few comments where people had to wait forever to get their stuff or had some other bad experience. I've seen nothing but glowing reviews of Sterk
 
Nov 18, 2011
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Australia
@harlequin_forest I've seen Plastic shrouds and aluminium shrouds break, some have been from being dropped, over pressure gasses flying backward or even just dry firing.
Titanium is much stronger and would deform rather than break - therefore safer and no debris flying at your face and eyes.
Yes they can be changed just for looks/aesthetic, and there's nothing wrong with that either. Comes down to personal tastes what takes your fancy.
Thanks @MarinePMI - I'd love to have a chat with Tikka/Sako.
 

ejg

Sergeant
Jul 9, 2008
396
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Ireland
www.pse-composites.com
Thanks Edi, still using and loving my PSE stock too. Will have to take some more photos of it, keen to see the Sterk handle on one of your rifles too!
The you go, my carbon E-Tac4CTR stock with the Atlasworx AI mag system MDT Mag and of course the Sterk swept bolt handle.







My friends CTR in his carbon E-Lite stock with original CTR mag. Sterk Bolt handle.





edi
 

ejg

Sergeant
Jul 9, 2008
396
23
18
55
Ireland
www.pse-composites.com
@ejg those are some sexy rifles! Really like your E-Lite stocks, good mix of hunt/tactical 'huntical' - nice paint job too.
Thanks , our hunting can be a very quick close range shot or 300m. Need a stock that can cover both . First E-Lite design was binned and we shaped for another month until we were happy.
At first I didn't like the swept handle, but now it is really growing on me.
edi
 
Jan 26, 2009
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Georgia
Morning all,

I had a ctr in 6.5 creed a little over a year ago for a short while. Sold it to a member here on the hide for some crazy reason.

Fast forward to present day after a few in-between rifles I ordered a Tikka T3x Tac A1 in 6.5 back in February from Euro Optics.

Love the rifle.

Here is my general observation/question.

The Tikka is so smooth and good shooting I really don't want to shoot anything else I have in the safe. It has spoiled me to the point of not even wanting to shoot my go-to Remington.

To me it's like when one gets behind really good glass everything else just isn't "good enough".

Now I'm thinking - how can I convert more calibers/rifles in my safe over to Tikkas?

Anyone else have the same problem as I do?
 
Jan 1, 2014
48
24
8
Morning all,

I had a ctr in 6.5 creed a little over a year ago for a short while. Sold it to a member here on the hide for some crazy reason.

Fast forward to present day after a few in-between rifles I ordered a Tikka T3x Tac A1 in 6.5 back in February from Euro Optics.

Love the rifle.

Here is my general observation/question.

The Tikka is so smooth and good shooting I really don't want to shoot anything else I have in the safe. It has spoiled me to the point of not even wanting to shoot my go-to Remington.

To me it's like when one gets behind really good glass everything else just isn't "good enough".

Now I'm thinking - how can I convert more calibers/rifles in my safe over to Tikkas?

Anyone else have the same problem as I do?
Yes except I have a Sako TRG 22 that REALLY spoils me. I'm trying to duplicate as much of it as I can in a Tikka.
 
Jan 1, 2014
48
24
8
Getting ready to replace my barrel with a Southern Precision Rifle Bugnut system. Couple questions: 1. What is that green adhesive and how do I remove it? 2. Do I use the Brownells universal action wrench like in the pic or should I turn the other half of wrench upside down and use both flats as opposed to the "V" side as in the pictures?


Green adhesive goo. I assume that spot is just more green goo that came through a hole in the picatinny rail and not a dowel pin?








 

MarinePMI

Battery Operated Grunt
Jun 3, 2010
2,271
690
113
San Diego, Ca
Getting ready to replace my barrel with a Southern Precision Rifle Bugnut system. Couple questions: 1. What is that green adhesive and how do I remove it? 2. Do I use the Brownells universal action wrench like in the pic or should I turn the other half of wrench upside down and use both flats as opposed to the "V" side as in the pictures?


Green adhesive goo. I assume that spot is just more green goo that came through a hole in the picatinny rail and not a dowel pin?








1. Carb cleaner will remove it, as will just about any aggressive solvent. Wouldn't hurt leaving it there.
2. Personally, I'd use the flats vice the "V". This also negates having to remove the pic rail to get the barrel off.

Not sure what "spot" you talking about. There is a recoil lug hole in the action, as well as a threaded hole up near the front of the action (IIRC) for a mirage band (trying to remember if it was part of the rail or part of the receiver, now that I think about it).

EDIT: Ok, just went downstairs and checked. The CTR has a rail with a shouldered bolt/screw that goes through the factory pic rail that provides the anchor point for a mirage band at the front of the recceiver. The varmint I have has an after market pic rail (since they ship without a pic rail, and the holes are plugged with plastic screws), and it does not have that provision for a mirage band. I don't recall the varmint having that extra D&T'ed hole either, when I swapped out rails.
 
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bna5017

New Hide Member
Feb 17, 2018
4
1
3
So that's what that hole is for! I used it as a pusher bolt hole to remove the factory rail from my ctr. I read all these horror stories and thought maybe tikka added that hole to help get it off there.
 

bravesirrobin

New Hide Member
Jan 25, 2018
22
7
3
Getting ready to replace my barrel with a Southern Precision Rifle Bugnut system. Couple questions: 1. What is that green adhesive and how do I remove it? 2. Do I use the Brownells universal action wrench like in the pic or should I turn the other half of wrench upside down and use both flats as opposed to the "V" side as in the pictures?


Green adhesive goo. I assume that spot is just more green goo that came through a hole in the picatinny rail and not a dowel pin?








Have you tried flipping the action over, so that the rounded bottom of the action near the recoil lug recess rests in the V-block?
 

AndreC

Sergeant of the Hide
Jun 5, 2018
100
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Can anyone tell me which model# Limbsaver pad fits the T3 Lite factory stock best? I've heard that they tend to not match the stock profile exactly.

Thank you,

Andre
 

MountainHunter

Online Training Member
Jan 22, 2018
103
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Montana
Has anyone tried any of the bolt handle options off eBay? I got my order in to Sterk to late for this past run but the stock T3X lite bolt handle is driving me crazy on my match rifle. I've got a bunch of matches coming up that I like to have a new handle for.

Thinking about trying one to get me through till Sterk does another run.

Seems there's a couple other guys from Australia selling them on eBay, not sure if they're knockoff's of Sterk or if they're legit companies in their own right.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tikka-T3-T...917180&hash=item1a507ca430:g:iokAAOSweoBbCekJ
 
Mar 6, 2011
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Southern Colorado
Has anyone tried any of the bolt handle options off eBay? I got my order in to Sterk to late for this past run but the stock T3X lite bolt handle is driving me crazy on my match rifle. I've got a bunch of matches coming up that I like to have a new handle for.

Thinking about trying one to get me through till Sterk does another run.

Seems there's a couple other guys from Australia selling them on eBay, not sure if they're knockoff's of Sterk or if they're legit companies in their own right.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tikka-T3-T...917180&hash=item1a507ca430:g:iokAAOSweoBbCekJ
maybe look for a ctr knob off someone took off?
 
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