Tikka T3 Thread

patriotnation

New Hide Member
May 21, 2018
9
4
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Great forum you have here. I have a new Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 and have a question about magazines. I am considering buying a KRG Bravo chassis(was also looking at the X-ray) and I would like to know if my factory magazine is going to work in this chassis? Thank for any help
 

HoustonB77

Online Training Member
Jan 28, 2014
505
90
28
Nixon TX
Great forum you have here. I have a new Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 and have a question about magazines. I am considering buying a KRG Bravo chassis(was also looking at the X-ray) and I would like to know if my factory magazine is going to work in this chassis? Thank for any help
No you will have to buy different mags. KRG and a ton of other retailers sell them.
 

SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Sep 2, 2009
931
322
63
Thanks, really pleased with how this one has turned out. Began life as a 24' .308 Tikka Varmint, I cut the barrel to 17.5', then added a 22 inch 6.5x47 Hardy barrel with a APA little bastard brake. It's in a Manners T3 with CDI bottom metal.

Attached pic is First 5 rounds out of the rifle at 500m with ammo loaded for my Surgeon 6.5x47, I'm planning to find a load with 130jlk's for the Tikka, should do 2800-2850fps without trouble. Scope is a Nightforce ATACR 4-16. The entire combo is my favourite crossover comp/hunting rig, weights 12.5lb and makes for a very manageable setup. The comb to bore height with the Manners T3 means that with a stock-pack and low APA rings the cheekweld is perfect. Other additions are a Timney 2-stage and the Sterk hardware.

Honestly the upgraded Tikka option makes it very difficult to go the custom route these days.
I have a Surgeon build that I love, but it's difficult to really say that it's better than a Tikka with a few tweaks. Gave the tikka a hit of Krylon today. View attachment 6909683
Thanks for the details. I have too many rifles, custom and factory, and am very happy with them, yet I'm drawn to doing a T3 build. You may be on to something...;-)
So much for the one gun man adage...
 

ejg

Sergeant
Jul 9, 2008
405
46
28
55
Ireland
www.pse-composites.com
Just got my Bravo in today.

It mentions removing the "Spring Clip" from the trigger assembly. Does anyone have the torque value for that M6x20 fastening screw?
Same thread as action screw so I would say around 5NM. What is in my opinion much more important is to use Loctite on the screw, something like 243. If that screw get's loose she might fire when engaging or disengaging safety... or just by itself. One screw I always check when I have the action out of the stock. I also check/loctite our customers trigger screw on T3/Sako rifles.
edi
 
Oct 28, 2017
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29
18
I know anything is worth what ever you are willing to pay for it, but..... I came into an "extra" Benelli Super Black Eagle II a couple years ago that I dont shoot (because I already have one). My local shop said he would trade me a new CTR 26in stainless for my shotgun and $150. Does this sound reasonable?
 

harlequin_forest

New Hide Member
May 11, 2018
16
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3
Same thread as action screw so I would say around 5NM. What is in my opinion much more important is to use Loctite on the screw, something like 243. If that screw get's loose she might fire when engaging or disengaging safety... or just by itself. One screw I always check when I have the action out of the stock. I also check/loctite our customers trigger screw on T3/Sako rifles.
edi
Appreciate the direction!

I thought it was concerning that it took considerably less force than 5Nm to break loose.
 
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Krazy_jim

Sergeant of the Hide
Apr 9, 2014
47
9
8
Canada
Yeah, there was no way I was going to be able to use my fat wrench. Had to go dig out a normal Allen set, and that was a fight. Was close to having to get a bit and wratchet
 

MarinePMI

Battery Operated Grunt
Jun 3, 2010
2,592
1,015
113
San Diego, Ca
I know anything is worth what ever you are willing to pay for it, but..... I came into an "extra" Benelli Super Black Eagle II a couple years ago that I dont shoot (because I already have one). My local shop said he would trade me a new CTR 26in stainless for my shotgun and $150. Does this sound reasonable?
Well, it really depends on the model of SBE II (comfortech stock? Camo or black?), but I see them going for between $1300 and $1600. A new CTR SS runs $1150. depends on how much you want the CTR and how little you use/care about the SBE.
 

lou400a

Sergeant
Feb 27, 2008
333
27
28
SE Florida
65902E53-914C-4AA7-86B3-9CF80D5DA1CF.jpeg

Finally had a chance to try out some loads in my 223 Varmint T3x. Shot at 100 yards, hopefully I'll stretch it out next week.

BC183781-D733-4D1E-9CFE-38BD024B8EEB.jpeg

Looks like 22.7 gr IMR 8208 XBR and Nosler 80gr CC works well @ 2591 average ES 62, left @ 2585 ES 8, pulled the right @ 2605 ES 21

52DE7EF4-5C43-41DC-8601-D5FC789F1C57.jpeg

Bottom right is 24.1 gr Varget and Nosler 80gr CC @2642 ES 48

B030E26D-9645-4FAC-B2EA-916DAA096BC9.jpeg

Top right is 24.7 CFE223 and Nosler 80gr CC @ 2621 ES 35
 
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aaronk

New Hide Member
Jan 21, 2018
44
18
8
Washington
Just want to confirm on a Tikka T3 action - they can be converted from long action to short with the purchase of a new bolt stop kit. Is that correct? Found a good deal on a long action T3 that I'd like to pick up and convert to a short action caliber but just want to double check first.
 

Lunchbox27

Tactical Password Resetter
Mar 23, 2017
262
88
28
MD
Why I dont have this stock for my Tikka, I do have it for a Rem700. It has an aluminum bedding block, but I did a skim bed on it at the lug and tang. Helped with the movement of the action and more conistent groups
 

fxdrider

Full Member
Jan 3, 2014
265
30
28
Fredericksburg, Virginia
The B&C stock is a huge improvement! My CTR action dropped right in with no issue. I wanted to go the chassis route but really like CTR mags.

View attachment 6911103
Hey, that looks a lot like mine!

20180609_TikkaT3xCTR_6-5Cr_3.jpg

I was considering a chassis, but I just like the familiar feel of the Bell & Carlson stock. It's clearly not hurting my groups any!

2018-06-09_TikkaCTR6-5CR_Tgt1 (2).jpg

No bedding at all. Just dropped the action in and torqued the bolts.
 

4-Co LR

New Hide Member
Feb 24, 2018
7
2
3
Finally have my build complete:
Tikka T3 action
Bartlein Medium Palma (Smith work done by Moon at Crescent Customs)
6.5 Creedmoor
KRG Bravo
ARC M10 rings
SB PMII w/Gen II XR

Shot 10rds Hornady Precision Hunter and was really pleased for factory ammo with the results over my V3:

Now on to load development in my Lapua brass.
 

Attachments

Likes: viking78
May 17, 2017
206
43
28
Maryland
Finally have my build complete:
Tikka T3 action
Bartlein Medium Palma (Smith work done by Moon at Crescent Customs)
6.5 Creedmoor
KRG Bravo
ARC M10 rings
SB PMII w/Gen II XR

Shot 10rds Hornady Precision Hunter and was really pleased for factory ammo with the results over my V3:

Now on to load development in my Lapua brass.
How are the ARC mags running with the KRG Bravo/Tikka combination?
 

fxdrider

Full Member
Jan 3, 2014
265
30
28
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Finally have my build complete:
Tikka T3 action
Bartlein Medium Palma (Smith work done by Moon at Crescent Customs)
6.5 Creedmoor
KRG Bravo
ARC M10 rings
SB PMII w/Gen II XR

Shot 10rds Hornady Precision Hunter and was really pleased for factory ammo with the results over my V3:

Now on to load development in my Lapua brass.
Nice looking rifle!
 
Likes: 4-Co LR

snbyiggidy1

Sergeant of the Hide
Mar 15, 2018
118
113
43
Brownsville, Oregon
Finally have my build complete:
Tikka T3 action
Bartlein Medium Palma (Smith work done by Moon at Crescent Customs)
6.5 Creedmoor
KRG Bravo
ARC M10 rings
SB PMII w/Gen II XR

Shot 10rds Hornady Precision Hunter and was really pleased for factory ammo with the results over my V3:

Now on to load development in my Lapua brass.

Very nice looking rifle.
 
Likes: 4-Co LR

4-Co LR

New Hide Member
Feb 24, 2018
7
2
3
How are the ARC mags running with the KRG Bravo/Tikka combination?
I’ll let you know. Seems like the mags like handloads better than factory ammo because I loaded it longer but it’s too early to tell. Might have just needed to be broken in. It only had issues feeding twice today, but may have had to do with how the magazine was situated in the mag well or I short stroked the bolt. I’ll have to play around with it to find out.
 

Lunchbox27

Tactical Password Resetter
Mar 23, 2017
262
88
28
MD
Tikkas. I love my Tikkas! Accurate, smooth bolt, but god they have slow barrels. This is what I have seen from 3 different rifles. My current is a 20” factory 6.5. ELD-M 140 ammo gave me 2585. IMR4451 with the 140’s put me at 2550. RL17 with 140’s got me 2600. H4350 and the 140’s got me to 2625 but where can you find it?

For those that reload and want more speed from their slow T3X factory 6.5 barrels, RL16 is it! Today was my second range day with the loads and testing temp stability.

I have been using RL17 for a few years and while its accurate, its terrible with temp stability. I was seeing 70-85fps swings from shooting between the seasons. Today I tested my loads again from a Magnetospeed V3. Velocity stayed the same from a 53 degree day, to 73 degrees today. RL17 would have been a good 20-25fps faster.

( typical caution alert... DON’T copy my load). With that outta the way... I settled on 42.4g in Hornady brass, 140g Hornady bthp, and cci200 primers. Nothing special about the brass. FL resized, trimmed to 1.915, chamf/deburr... done. Rounds seated 2.820.

Now, for the good stuff...
20” (take note... 20”). 2685fps. 9.2 SD over 10 rounds. Thats a full 100fps faster than I was getting with the ELD-Match ammo. Oh yeah, half MOA. Zero over pressure signs.

So, that being said... I’ll be stock up on this stuff for sure. Hope this helps someone looking for a lil boost from their T3.
 

MarinePMI

Battery Operated Grunt
Jun 3, 2010
2,592
1,015
113
San Diego, Ca
Tikkas. I love my Tikkas! Accurate, smooth bolt, but god they have slow barrels. This is what I have seen from 3 different rifles. My current is a 20” factory 6.5. ELD-M 140 ammo gave me 2585. IMR4451 with the 140’s put me at 2550. RL17 with 140’s got me 2600. H4350 and the 140’s got me to 2625 but where can you find it?

For those that reload and want more speed from their slow T3X factory 6.5 barrels, RL16 is it! Today was my second range day with the loads and testing temp stability.

I have been using RL17 for a few years and while its accurate, its terrible with temp stability. I was seeing 70-85fps swings from shooting between the seasons. Today I tested my loads again from a Magnetospeed V3. Velocity stayed the same from a 53 degree day, to 73 degrees today. RL17 would have been a good 20-25fps faster.

( typical caution alert... DON’T copy my load). With that outta the way... I settled on 42.4g in Hornady brass, 140g Hornady bthp, and cci200 primers. Nothing special about the brass. FL resized, trimmed to 1.915, chamf/deburr... done. Rounds seated 2.820.

Now, for the good stuff...
20” (take note... 20”). 2685fps. 9.2 SD over 10 rounds. Thats a full 100fps faster than I was getting with the ELD-Match ammo. Oh yeah, half MOA. Zero over pressure signs.

So, that being said... I’ll be stock up on this stuff for sure. Hope this helps someone looking for a lil boost from their T3.
I think the "slow barrel" issue is caliber specific. I have a T-3 Varmint in .223 that throws 75gr'rs at 2960fps. Certainly not a "slow" barrel at all.
 
Likes: alaskalanche

lash

Swamp Rat
Sep 28, 2012
3,239
918
113
59
Central Florida
Trieded searching this thread but could not find it.

What is the best way or best converter, to get a picatinny rail to the front of the factory stock?
The most solid way to do this is to use T-nuts drilled in from the inside and mounted with a little epoxy. No reason not to do it if you like your current stock. Note that if you have a sling stud on the stock now, that can be unscrewed and will be one of your two mounting points, leaving you to add just one more. Seekins, Atlas and others make solid picatinny rails for this purpose.

ETA: you can also choose to use a threaded insert if you have the ability to do so.

FWIW, I used this method on an HP Precision stock and it is as solid as a rock.
 
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Likes: ruebarb
May 5, 2017
52
10
8
Trieded searching this thread but could not find it.

What is the best way or best converter, to get a picatinny rail to the front of the factory stock?
I just did this to my factory stock. I probably overkilled it, but I filled the voids between X-ribs with Devcon Liquid, then used a 1/4” drill with a 1/2” counterbore to create a spot for a t-nut, that I epoxied into place.

Seems pretty stout.
 
Likes: lash

AR_longranger

New Hide Member
Jun 4, 2018
44
4
8
I've got a Tikka T3X CTR in .260 Rem, I really dont like the factory magazine that came with the rifle. What's the best replacement bottom metal to use for the AICS mags.
 
May 5, 2017
52
10
8
I've got a Tikka T3X CTR in .260 Rem, I really dont like the factory magazine that came with the rifle. What's the best replacement bottom metal to use for the AICS mags.
There’s two options that I know of: Atlasworxs from Australia and Mountain Tactical/Tikka Performance (USA)

I haven’t used either, but if I ever decide to switch my CTR to AICS mags, I’m planning to go Atlasworxs, simply because I think it looks nicer. YMMV
 
May 5, 2017
52
10
8
Buy the Seekins SRS Rail, for less than the Black hawk $, http://www.seekinsprecision.com/srs-rail-1.html

Better rail too

I’ll second the Seekins rail, which is what I used for my stock. The longest rail (3.5 in spacing, I think) was JUST long enough to mount a t-nut and not cut into a rib in the stock. The Atlas rail may have the ability for even longer spacing, and would be a good choice as well.
 

AR_longranger

New Hide Member
Jun 4, 2018
44
4
8
There’s two options that I know of: Atlasworxs from Australia and Mountain Tactical/Tikka Performance (USA)

I haven’t used either, but if I ever decide to switch my CTR to AICS mags, I’m planning to go Atlasworxs, simply because I think it looks nicer. YMMV
Thanks for the info, also thinking of going to a KRG X-Ray chassis so that's another option, but if I ever build another tikka I can always use the ctr stock with the aics compatible bottom metal :)
 
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