Tikka T3 Thread

Apr 24, 2017
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Tried to use the search function and look back through the thread but couldn't find an answer. So please forgive me if this has already been asked.

I have a Tikka T3X TAC A1 and would like to swap out the Pic rail for a 20 moa version. Anyone have experience with this? I'm concerned since the rail on the top of the handguard butts right up against the scope mount on top of the receiver.

I would prefer a solution that doesn't require me to modify the new 20 moa rail, but if that's the only answer. Well...

Thanks in advance.
 

Thunderhorse

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 31, 2018
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Jacksonville NC
Tried to use the search function and look back through the thread but couldn't find an answer. So please forgive me if this has already been asked.

I have a Tikka T3X TAC A1 and would like to swap out the Pic rail for a 20 moa version. Anyone have experience with this? I'm concerned since the rail on the top of the handguard butts right up against the scope mount on top of the receiver.

I would prefer a solution that doesn't require me to modify the new 20 moa rail, but if that's the only answer. Well...

Thanks in advance.
EGW, Warne, Nightforce, and many others make 20 MOA rails for Tikkas; I think the EGW one hangs over the barrel a little but I don't think most others do. Another option would be to keep the stock rail and just mount the scope in a 20 MOA unimount.
 
Apr 24, 2017
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Yep, I've used EGW on a couple of Remington actions and it hangs over the barrel. That's the main reason I asked. Wasn't sure if some of the others would stop right at the face of the action. The Mountain Tactical website cautions that their Performance rail will work but only if you modify the rifle. That concerned me more than a little. I'll consider modifying the rail but not the rifle itself.
 

plong

Gunny Sergeant
Nov 13, 2010
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Ohio 44685
Yep, I've used EGW on a couple of Remington actions and it hangs over the barrel. That's the main reason I asked. Wasn't sure if some of the others would stop right at the face of the action. The Mountain Tactical website cautions that their Performance rail will work but only if you modify the rifle. That concerned me more than a little. I'll consider modifying the rail but not the rifle itself.
The Murphy Precision base I referenced a couple of posts above stops at the front of the receiver, perfect fit for the Tikka action. You used to be able to see one of mine on about page 12 of this thread before Photobucket decided to charge for the privilege.
 

Sogan

Sergeant
Jun 11, 2013
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Just got my Area 419 Arca rail installed and had a range day with it. Overall I'm really pleased with it, and the MPA RAT pic rail makes swapping bipods a breeze. I highly recommend it.
Two adapters makes that bipod sit real high. Plus the added weight. Hopefully one adapter comes out to be dual purspose soon enough
 
Tikka T3 build we just wrapped up.

New barrel, some fluting, and C/K to finish.

Stock is a Manners T4A blank. We did some surgery and tang work to build it up for the action. Then surface machined the inlet and fitted all the additional hardware. 1:1 right off the machine.

Finally, some paint work using our DMP pattern in 2 color. I designed this pattern almost 7 years ago and we make all the stencils in house. Actual applied coating, not film dipped.

Nice little rig for killing critters.
 

Attachments

Thunderhorse

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 31, 2018
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Jacksonville NC
for a few of the questions i got about the bolt hitting cheek rest:

this photo shows the highest i could set the cheek rest without the bolt hitting
View attachment 6871001

This shows the cheek piece moved up a bit more and the bolt hitting it now
View attachment 6871000

my solution, i could probably run even lower rings but i am going to get a weibad cheekpad to raise the comb without moving the cheek piece up. note this is a .308 sa
Looking at KRGs Facebook this morning they mentioned in one of the comments they are working on a revised cheekpiece to address the Tikka cocking indicator issue that should be out mid 2018
 

Thunderhorse

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 31, 2018
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Jacksonville NC
nice, you also cant remove the bolt with the cheek piece all the way down so i cant wait for that!
I am not sure that will change; I forgot where it was but when I was researching which chassis I wanted to buy I saw a video where they recommended slipping O-rings over the tubes that hold the cheekpiece up to set its height, and then removing the cheekpiece entirely when you want to remove your bolt.

Again I can't say for sure as I won't be home for several more weeks to assemble the chassis to my rifle and new scope, so IDK where exactly I will have the cheekpiece adjusted to. I will post pics when I get it set up though. Good news is that the scope and rings arrived at my house from Vortex yesterday, and the chassis should come in today.

If they just shorten the cheekpiece then that could solve both issues but IDK what that will do to the ergonomics
 
Jun 8, 2010
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I am not sure that will change; I forgot where it was but when I was researching which chassis I wanted to buy I saw a video where they recommended slipping O-rings over the tubes that hold the cheekpiece up to set its height, and then removing the cheekpiece entirely when you want to remove your bolt.

Again I can't say for sure as I won't be home for several more weeks to assemble the chassis to my rifle and new scope, so IDK where exactly I will have the cheekpiece adjusted to. I will post pics when I get it set up though. Good news is that the scope and rings arrived at my house from Vortex yesterday, and the chassis should come in today.

If they just shorten the cheekpiece then that could solve both issues but IDK what that will do to the ergonomics
yea i space it out with plastic sleeves, way to many o-rings to get the height!
 

Thunderhorse

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 31, 2018
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Jacksonville NC
yea i space it out with plastic sleeves, way to many o-rings to get the height!

Also, I wonder if the adjustable cheekpiece mount and overmolded cheekpiece fit the Bravo. The product page says W-3 and X-ray, but the actual instructions say all chassis except Habu. If the adjustable cheekpiece mount fits then the overmolded cheekpiece will and it looks quite a bit shorter. It wouldn't have the same aesthetic appeal as the stock Bravo cheekpiece but form is the most beautiful function
 
Jun 8, 2010
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in the Bravo page, massoud says the post spacing is the same so i could technically fir, but i dont know how that would look, made if you could some how keep the original in place, and mount the overmolded one through and on-top of it.
 

The_Count

Found It....
Nov 13, 2012
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Also, I wonder if the adjustable cheekpiece mount and overmolded cheekpiece fit the Bravo. The product page says W-3 and X-ray, but the actual instructions say all chassis except Habu. If the adjustable cheekpiece mount fits then the overmolded cheekpiece will and it looks quite a bit shorter. It wouldn't have the same aesthetic appeal as the stock Bravo cheekpiece but form is the most beautiful function
KRG has indicated that the overloaded cheek piece will work on the Bravo. The nice thing about it is it would offer more adjustment (Fore and Aft).
 

kabarNC

Learning..
Feb 11, 2017
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State line of the Carolinas
My Tikka XRay came with an O ring on each riser stem that are tight. Slowly pushed the riser down to desired height, set the knob, and the O rings hug the stems right against the stock. Bolt removal takes about 3 seconds, pull off the riser, and out with the bolt. When I put the riser back on, it slides in til it hits O rings, tighten knob, also 3 seconds.
 
Likes: Thunderhorse
Sep 13, 2017
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I just got my T6A in yesterday. Dropped right into both my T3 CTR .308 and T3X 6.5. When I put any torque at all on the action screws after assembly, i can't get the magazine latch to fully engage. When I install factory DBM with magazine engaged first, reassemble and then torque action screws, can't get the magazine out as it would come out normally. Sent a pm to a member here but thought I would throw it out here as well.
 

dannySH

Sergeant of the Hide
Feb 13, 2017
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I just got my T6A in yesterday. Dropped right into both my T3 CTR .308 and T3X 6.5. When I put any torque at all on the action screws after assembly, i can't get the magazine latch to fully engage. When I install factory DBM with magazine engaged first, reassemble and then torque action screws, can't get the magazine out as it would come out normally. Sent a pm to a member here but thought I would throw it out here as well.
Me and two of my friends had the same problem too with our T6A in our CTRs, just put a washer between the DMB and the stock in the second screw hole. Problem solved. You could do a little bedding work there if you like how it works.
 

combat45acp

Sergeant of the Hide
Aug 5, 2017
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So has anyone purchased an aftermarket enlarged bolt knob and handle and wants to go a different route? Shoot me a PM if you want to sell one. Looking for a smooth or pineapple style.
 
Jul 13, 2012
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Damn that’s a nice rifle @ /redrooster

I haven’t read through the whole thread if this has already been covered but I bought a McMillan A5 CTR inlet and it fits perfectly as far as I can tell with the factory trigger. However, with the Timney two stage installed, it needs some additional material removed to work properly. Just an FYI.

Also, is there anyone that makes a swept back ball bolt handle under a $100?
 

eMc9002

Full Member
Feb 24, 2017
184
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Damn that’s a nice rifle @ /redrooster

I haven’t read through the whole thread if this has already been covered but I bought a McMillan A5 CTR inlet and it fits perfectly as far as I can tell with the factory trigger. However, with the Timney two stage installed, it needs some additional material removed to work properly. Just an FYI.

Also, is there anyone that makes a swept back ball bolt handle under a $100?
Yeah, Sterk make's the AI style swept bolt knob's. Forgot his contact info but someone could chime in.
 
Jun 8, 2010
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Damn that’s a nice rifle @ /redrooster

I haven’t read through the whole thread if this has already been covered but I bought a McMillan A5 CTR inlet and it fits perfectly as far as I can tell with the factory trigger. However, with the Timney two stage installed, it needs some additional material removed to work properly. Just an FYI.

Also, is there anyone that makes a swept back ball bolt handle under a $100?
love my sterks swept handle, you can find him on FB too!
 
Jul 13, 2012
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Birmingham, AL
Sounds good. Thanks for the replies. I don’t why I had it in my mind that the Sterk handles are really expensive.

Does the $79 include shipping? Just checked out your page and the order process looks really simple.
 
Nov 18, 2011
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Sounds good. Thanks for the replies. I don’t why I had it in my mind that the Sterk handles are really expensive.

Does the $79 include shipping? Just checked out your page and the order process looks really simple.
Maybe they look expensive and that tricked you haha. Shipping will depend on where youre located. It's about $19US for tracked international post (from me in Australia to US).
 
Mar 29, 2012
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Yeah and its shorter so it should solve the bolt throw issues. Curious how it'd look though
I have just bought a Bravo and instantly found the cheek piece disappointing. I was unaware of the issues prior to buying it. I can live with having to remove it to take the bolt out, but at the height I need it, it fouls the bolt just as you've described. I could Dremel it out but reckon I shouldn't have to. A major design fault that should have never left the production line in my opinion. I also find the pistol grip a bit short and have my little finger hanging free.
 

Thunderhorse

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 31, 2018
107
36
28
Jacksonville NC
I have just bought a Bravo and instantly found the cheek piece disappointing. I was unaware of the issues prior to buying it. I can live with having to remove it to take the bolt out, but at the height I need it, it fouls the bolt just as you've described. I could Dremel it out but reckon I shouldn't have to. A major design fault that should have never left the production line in my opinion. I also find the pistol grip a bit short and have my little finger hanging free.

Is yours a CTR?
 

Thunderhorse

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 31, 2018
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Jacksonville NC
No, just a T3. Are they different in that respect?

I'm out of country for a few more weeks so I haven't got to play with mine yet but Tikkas are all built on the same action length, just with a different bolt stop that places the ledge further forward or back in the raceway to limit bolt travel. Some other members mentioned that the SA T3 has the shortest bolt stop and would keep the bolt from hitting the cheekpiece. The CTR is supposed to have a longer stop and the LA an even longer one. I was asking to see if perhaps the SA non-CTR Tikka didn't have this issue since another member posted that in post #362 of this thread:

http://forum.snipershide.com/threads/new-bling-from-krg.6562935/page-8
 
Nov 18, 2011
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Australia
@cannoncrossfire , what’s the expected cost for the Gen 2 shrouds? Are they the same as the one shown a few months ago?
The gen2 shroud actually takes a little longer to machine but I've been sourcing material and trying to bring the cost down if possible. They will either be the same $105AU ($83US) or $100AU ($79US). Will post photos in the next week or so, but yes its the same as what Frank/Lowlight had posted.
 
Feb 26, 2017
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So I have this build in mind. Tikka T3, Mountain Tactical bottom metal, 28 Nosler, 1:8 twist throated for the 195 Berger so I can feed it from the mag (3.600 likely). I know im eating up a little space in the case by not going with a m700 variant, but the difference between 3.600 and 3.740 doesn't seem that big of a deal to me. I'll likely leave the walnut stock on the rifle as I like the feel of wood on a hunting rifle. Am I dumb?
 
So I have this build in mind. Tikka T3, Mountain Tactical bottom metal, 28 Nosler, 1:8 twist throated for the 195 Berger so I can feed it from the mag (3.600 likely). I know im eating up a little space in the case by not going with a m700 variant, but the difference between 3.600 and 3.740 doesn't seem that big of a deal to me. I'll likely leave the walnut stock on the rifle as I like the feel of wood on a hunting rifle. Am I dumb?
I don’t think you are leaving too much on the table with 3.600 in a Tikka and you’ll be glad to have the extra room the MT DBM will give you with the 195s
 
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