Tikka T3 Thread

Sil17sd

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I know this may sound like a stupid question but I have decided to build a tikka and basically throw away the stock and barrel, order a manners or McMillan and have a bartlein spun up for it. I'm wanting some opinions on whether to order a stainless or blued model. I know it's very subjective but any input would help.
 

SlimySquirrel

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Interesting... don't throw that barrel away mate. It'll probably shoot as well as the custom.

I guess if the profile isn't right then its worth changing I guess.... No problem with the stock though!
 
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DHwreckage

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Any way to get the KRG Bravo to take the CTR mags? I love em and their 2.93" COAL.
we talked about this in the KRG bling page, you would need to machine the chassis and stock inside the magwell and get the KRG TRG extended mag catch: new bling from krg pg.12

i picked up a sako green bravo and am going to take it to my gunsmith when i go to pick up my CTR at his shop. at $75 an hour i'd only be willing to sink a few hours into get the CTR mags seeing that its a $400 chassis.
 

TommyTwoTone

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Anyone else have trouble removing the factory bolt from the dovetail joint? I've got the firing pin rotated in the correct position to relieve the spring tension but the handle isn't sliding out nor does it wiggle any. I'm tempted to whack it with a punch but thought I should ask first before getting violent.

I've heard it's a PIA to get the sterk handle in and I'm already not looking forward to it.
 

blbennett1288

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Anyone else have trouble removing the factory bolt from the dovetail joint? I've got the firing pin rotated in the correct position to relieve the spring tension but the handle isn't sliding out nor does it wiggle any. I'm tempted to whack it with a punch but thought I should ask first before getting violent.

I've heard it's a PIA to get the sterk handle in and I'm already not looking forward to it.
I actually disassembled the entire thing, meaning I took the firing pin out and I did not have any issues getting the handle out. The sterk was a little tight but I didnt need to hammer or wiggle it in.
 

cannoncrossfire

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Anyone else have trouble removing the factory bolt from the dovetail joint? I've got the firing pin rotated in the correct position to relieve the spring tension but the handle isn't sliding out nor does it wiggle any. I'm tempted to whack it with a punch but thought I should ask first before getting violent.

I've heard it's a PIA to get the sterk handle in and I'm already not looking forward to it.
Not sure who/where has any pains in the ass putting a sterk handle in... I'd like to think that type of issue or feedback would be brought to my attention... especially after 400+ handles in the wild. Tight tolerances will result in a tight fit - not a bad thing for your rifle bolt. Please don't use any tools apart from your hands to fit a handle. If it doesn't go in correctly you'll gouge up metal and be screwed real fast.

The front of the firing pin locates into a scallop in the front of the bolt handle dovetail - this might be causing the jam. As already recommended i'd be wiggling etc until it comes out. The last thing you want is to damage your bolt body.
 

JGR1953

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Not sure who/where has any pains in the ass putting a sterk handle in... I'd like to think that type of issue or feedback would be brought to my attention... especially after 400+ handles in the wild. Tight tolerances will result in a tight fit - not a bad thing for your rifle bolt. Please don't use any tools apart from your hands to fit a handle. If it doesn't go in correctly you'll gouge up metal and be screwed real fast.

The front of the firing pin locates into a scallop in the front of the bolt handle dovetail - this might be causing the jam. As already recommended i'd be wiggling etc until it comes out. The last thing you want is to damage your bolt body.
If he didn't block the firing pin from moving forward with an allen wrench or some other type of tool before he made the twist to the deep scallop it's not going to budge.
He has to reset the firing pin back up onto the upper level then block it and make his turn.
It can be turned back up to the upper level easily with a pair of pliars preferably with the jaws wrapped in tape or cloth to keep from marring the finish.
 

TommyTwoTone

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The front of the firing pin locates into a scallop in the front of the bolt handle dovetail - this might be causing the jam. As already recommended i'd be wiggling etc until it comes out. The last thing you want is to damage your bolt body.
John,

I may have exaggerated the commonality of folks that had difficulty installing your bolt handle...I recall two such instances in this thread. It wasn't meant to be a criticism of your product. I'll take a tight fitting handle that's a bit of a challenge to install over a sloppy fitting handle any day.

I'll just be happy to get the factory handle out. Do you think it would be okay to put the handle in a vise and tap the body of the bolt with a piece of wood or rubber mallet?
 

TommyTwoTone

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If he didn't block the firing pin from moving forward with an allen wrench or some other type of tool before he made the twist to the deep scallop it's not going to budge.
He has to reset the firing pin back up onto the upper level then block it and make his turn.
It can be turned back up to the upper level easily with a pair of pliars preferably with the jaws wrapped in tape or cloth to keep from marring the finish.
Perhaps I'm missing something. Here's my bolt:

IMG_20180126_082519_01.jpg
IMG_20180126_082519_02.jpg

So as you can see, I've got my Allen key in place and can move the tab back into the small detent. Does the size of the Allen key matter? Should I use the thinnest one that'll provide the leverage necessary to turn the firing pin or the thickest one that'll fit?
 
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dannySH

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Perhaps I'm missing something. Here's my bolt:

View attachment 6869566
View attachment 6869567

So as you can see, I've got my Allen key in place and can move the tab back into the small detent. Does the size of the Allen key matter? Should I use the thinnest one that'll provide the leverage necessary to turn the firing pin or the thickest one that'll fit?
Look at this video
 
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JGR1953

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Perhaps I'm missing something. Here's my bolt:

View attachment 6869566
View attachment 6869567

So as you can see, I've got my Allen key in place and can move the tab back into the small detent. Does the size of the Allen key matter? Should I use the thinnest one that'll provide the leverage necessary to turn the firing pin or the thickest one that'll fit?
Smaller will make it worse.
Cock the bolt and find a flat head screw driver that will fit in the notch and keep it "completely" open then twist it to the scallop.
Just make sure your screw driver will stay put and not slip out.
 

TommyTwoTone

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Look at this video
Perhaps I'll make a video of my own...

IMG_20180126_093914_01.jpg

Talk about tight fitting handles! Sometimes wiggling isn't enough. The manual does support hitting the handle with a plastic hammer if it won't slide off, btw. I improvised a little but it worked out. Thanks to all that offered assistance.
 

Palmetto-Pride

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HELP!!!!! My friend lost his whole bolt in the woods. Any way to get one for a reasonable price?
Unfortunately your friend is pretty screwed a bolt has to be properly head spaced and I highly doubt Tikka is willing to just send him one. There isn't even a part# for one in the "spare parts" section of the manual if anything they would probably want him to send the whole rifle back.
 

bigwatchpilot

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Unfortunately your friend is pretty screwed a bolt has to be properly head spaced and I highly doubt Tikka is willing to just send him one. There isn't even a part# for one in the "spare parts" section of the manual if anything they would probably want him to send the whole rifle back.
I disagree completely. I can swap any common bolt on my T3's and they headspace is fine. A Tikka bolt is a Tikka bolt. Brownells has them for sale but the are Expensive. I do agree he is screwed and is better off getting a used T3 for the price of a replacement bolt, or just buying a new rifle. There are no aftermarket bolt options that I know of.
 

Palmetto-Pride

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I disagree completely. I can swap any common bolt on my T3's and they headspace is fine. A Tikka bolt is a Tikka bolt. Brownells has them for sale but the are Expensive. I do agree he is screwed and is better off getting a used T3 for the price of a replacement bolt, or just buying a new rifle. There are no aftermarket bolt options that I know of.
I agree with you I have swapped bolts before from rifle to rife, but I do check head space with a set of GO/NO-GO gauges to be on the safe side. I was more or less predicting the position I think Tikka is going to take on it, but I could be totally wrong.
 

DHwreckage

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does anyone know what the dimensions are for the CTR barrel contour? im contemplating getting a AE30 or AEM5-30 and want to know if there will be enough meat on my 20" .308 ctr barrel to contour for it.
 

ReimoS

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Got my Baby Tictac scoped, but I'm not set on the bipod yet. Which one to go with. Harris, Atlas, whatever. But it is a short little package, pretty much close to a 16 in AR, though a bit on the heavy side. +1 kg with the can, compared to the original Tictac.
 

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derek1ee

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Anyone else have trouble removing the factory bolt from the dovetail joint? I've got the firing pin rotated in the correct position to relieve the spring tension but the handle isn't sliding out nor does it wiggle any. I'm tempted to whack it with a punch but thought I should ask first before getting violent.

I've heard it's a PIA to get the sterk handle in and I'm already not looking forward to it.
I have two Tikka, a 223 Lite the bolt just slides out, a 308 CTR and I had to really put some effort to get it out, aftermarket bolt handle also needs to be filed a little bit to fit the CTR bolt.
 

PFG

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Thanks Tom! Got any photos of the EH1TK? Or will this be exactly like the current EH1 but with the new Tikka mini chassis?
 

dannySH

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Installed mine yesterday. Breaks clean at 1.5lbs. Shipping takes forever as it is coming from Canada, but worth the wait. Trigger is very nice now.
You can buy the Elay Precision trigger spring, its made in the USA, shipping is fast and free in Ebay. It reduces the trigger pull just like Yodave to around 1lb 6oz.
 

alaskalanche

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The PRS-1tk stocks come standard in a elite carbon fiber shells, they run about 2.95 lbs but will always depend on hardware and pad. The mcs-dbmtk chassis is about 10ounces and the ctr will come in about 6 ounces. Thank you
Thanks for the info. So just under 3 lbs is where these will be running as the lightest option and weight goes up from there?
 

Sil17sd

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Hi Alaskalanche, Yes for the prs1tk with adj cheek. We do also make the EH1Tk, non adj cheek but high, and depending on hardware comes in at about 27oz, the mcs-ehT (tikka) hunter that is about 25oz. thank you
I picked up the EH1A tikka inletted that was ready to ship, how much roughly will a eh1a weigh over the non adjustable?
 

Graywolf.260

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we talked about this in the KRG bling page, you would need to machine the chassis and stock inside the magwell and get the KRG TRG extended mag catch: new bling from krg pg.12

i picked up a sako green bravo and am going to take it to my gunsmith when i go to pick up my CTR at his shop. at $75 an hour i'd only be willing to sink a few hours into get the CTR mags seeing that its a $400 chassis.
I'd be interested to hear how this works out
 

PFG

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Hi Alaskalanche, Yes for the prs1tk with adj cheek. We do also make the EH1Tk, non adj cheek but high, and depending on hardware comes in at about 27oz, the mcs-ehT (tikka) hunter that is about 25oz. thank you
Good info, thanks! Any photos of the EH1Tk?

And will that MSC-ehT get the Tikka Chassis as well?
 

bravesirrobin

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Hi, new member here who's only recently gotten into precision shooting.

I have a Tikka T3x Varmint in .223, and I want to upgrade the factory stock to the KRG Bravo. Does anyone here own that chassis? The problem I have is that the cheek piece seems to be very close to the back of the receiver (compared for example to the X-Ray and Whiskey 3) and I'm concerned that when raised, the cheek piece might interfere with the bolt throw. So far I haven't been able to find any photos of a Tikka in a Bravo chassis with the bolt all the way open.

Also, is there a definitive answer on whether the MDT .223 polymer AICS mags work in a T3x?