Tikka T3 Thread

346ci

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Just got a KRG Bravo for one of my T3's, really nice stock for the money. Pretty sure I will be unloading my Manners and getting another Bravo for the other.
 

viking78

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Great tip for Bravo, is to get a Hoptic USA saddle blanket on the cheekrest, i have it on one and getting it to second one too.
Cheap price and work really well.
 

AKMarty

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Jul 2, 2019
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Just got my Tac A1 6.5CM! Put my Gen 1 Vortex PST 4-16x50 on it and wow! I’ve never done precision shooting because my rifles were not that good.
3 groups 12, 10:30, 9 o’clock shot in that order on 3rd outing.
2 targets-lower at 100yds, top at 200yds.

I love this thing! Now for more practice!
 

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Billiam1211

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I picked up my Tikka Tac-A1 a few years ago and ran it in PRS matches for the last 2 years and it's been a hammer. They keep popping up more and more at my local club.

My Tikka is kind of a franken Tac A1 at this point. I swapped the bolt-handle/shroud, swapped the grip to an Ergo Tactical Deluxe, replaced the barrel to a Patriot Valley Arms 26-inch M24 contour in 6.5 Creedmoor, and added an Area 419 universal Arca Rail. The Rock Creek from PVA has been a hammer so far, I'm about 400 rounds in.
 

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Krazy_jim

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Did you have to ask them to make you one specifically for the Tikka? I'm not seeing one for the Tikka on their site.
Given the bravo is made for more than just a tikka, i dont think you are looking for a tikka pad specifically.

But dont take my word for it
 

strat81

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Looking to get my first Tikka, and first 6.5CM. Range is from 100-600 but have access to 1000 yard one. My question is this: 20" or 24" barrel?
24.

My 6.5s are 20 and 16.75 and the additional velocity would be nice when the wind picks up and I'm shooting at 600.

Maybe one day I'll go deer hunting and appreciate the light weight of the 16.75.
 

armydog

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I went with a 24 but I still get around 125fps slower than my rem 700 with a Bartlein the same length. Lowlight had said Tikka barrels are slow too. That being said go with a 24.
I have 600 rounds through my Tikka come time to rebarrel I'll go with a Bartlein but stick with a 24 inch.
 

Billiam1211

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I went with a 24 but I still get around 125fps slower than my rem 700 with a Bartlein the same length. Lowlight had said Tikka barrels are slow too. That being said go with a 24.
I have 600 rounds through my Tikka come time to rebarrel I'll go with a Bartlein but stick with a 24 inch.
My 6.5 Creedmoor 24-inch Tikka factory barrel got 2,742 fps w/ 140gr ELDs and 42.5gr H4350. I replaced the barrel w/ a Rock Creek prefit from Patriot Valley Arms and I'm getting 2,800 w/ 140gr ELDs at 42gr of H4350. Tikka factory barrels are slow, but unbelievably accurate.
 

Gobears16

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My new 6.5 24in ctr barrel is getting 2730 with 140 Hornady American Gunner. ES is around 35 but the accuracy with this cheap ammo is pretty remarkable. First two groups out of the gun where .25 moa at 100... not sure if I stretch it out really far how it will do with such a big ES spread but I’ll get it out to 1000 next week and see.
 

strat81

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My 6.5 Creedmoor 24-inch Tikka factory barrel got 2,742 fps w/ 140gr ELDs and 42.5gr H4350. I replaced the barrel w/ a Rock Creek prefit from Patriot Valley Arms and I'm getting 2,800 w/ 140gr ELDs at 42gr of H4350. Tikka factory barrels are slow, but unbelievably accurate.
My new 6.5 24in ctr barrel is getting 2730 with 140 Hornady American Gunner. ES is around 35 but the accuracy with this cheap ammo is pretty remarkable. First two groups out of the gun where .25 moa at 100... not sure if I stretch it out really far how it will do with such a big ES spread but I’ll get it out to 1000 next week and see.
As another point of reference...

My 20" CTR posted average velocity of 2606, SD 6.6 with 41.5gr H4350 and a 139gr Scenar, 2.870" COAL and Fed 210M.

Factory Hornady 140gr ELD Match was 2549 average, SD 22. Factory Hornady 140gr BTHP American Gunner was 2506 average, SD 25.4.

A deer at 100 yards probably won't be able to tell the difference, but steel or paper at 1,000 with 10 or 15 mph wind certainly will.
 

verdugo60

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That awkward moment when your 8lb Tikka/PROOF/McMillan hunting build outshoots your 18 lb Accuracy International!

Shout out to PROOF, it's a Tikka Pre-Fit and shoots 1/2 moa with the 143 ELD-X with almost no load development. Didn't even bed it yet.
 

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NiemiPT

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As another point of reference...

My 20" CTR posted average velocity of 2606, SD 6.6 with 41.5gr H4350 and a 139gr Scenar, 2.870" COAL and Fed 210M.
My 20” T3 CTR is around 855m/s (2800fps) with 139gr Scenar L and 2,95 grams (45,5gr) of VV N160. I’m more than happy :)
 

SWWI Shooter

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For me it's reach, just puts the bolt knob in a better position.
Function for sure. With the OEM bolt handle, your hand has to move slightly forward to grasp the knob. This means that to cycle the bolt, your hand has to move forward, then back. With the swept knob, the knob is straight above or slightly back from your fingers so the bolt cycling is smoother/ quicker. Well worth the $ in my opinion.
 

SWWI Shooter

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Do I want a T3 for elk hunting? How should I set it up?
A T3 would make a great Elk hunting rifle. How you set it up will depend largely on your budget and the expected distance of shots. In timber, the factory stock and lower power scope (3-9 X) would be just fine. If you're expecting 400 yard + shots, a higher power scope and an aftermarket stock would help.
 
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verdugo60

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Tikka T3X lites are getting really popular in our elk camp. Lightweight, accurate, great value in a hunting rifle. We hunt mostly close distance but I couldn't help myself so I set mine up light AND for long range with a Proof barrel and McMillan stock.
 
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heronblue7

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I have access to the backside of a big national forest.

There would be some shots across small canyons and some lightly forested slopes.
 

SWWI Shooter

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I have access to the backside of a big national forest.

There would be some shots across small canyons and some lightly forested slopes.
What caliber? What is your expected longest shot? What is the longest shot that you can make with certainty on a 12 x 12 target from a field position? The answers to those three questions will determine how you need to set it up.
 
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reubenski

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If you have big hands and are using a vertical grip a Sterk may well interfere with your hand placement. The Sterk parts exhibit much nicer craftsmanship than any of the other but in terms of functionality the Glades knob and handle are a better design unless you're hands smell like cabbage
 

EnsEntium

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If you have big hands and are using a vertical grip a Sterk may well interfere with your hand placement. The Sterk parts exhibit much nicer craftsmanship than any of the other but in terms of functionality the Glades knob and handle are a better design unless you're hands smell like cabbage
While I have not tried the Glades, I had the stock CTR handle and the Sterk ball. The Sterk had significantly less perceived effort for bolt cycling compared to the factory CTR. For reference I have smaller hands (I wear medium gloves).
 
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Jayjay1

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Trigger or stock - which one would you rather upgrade?

Hey guys,
I´m building a CTR step by step because I´m a bit on a budget.

I´ve bedded the system in the original stock, but the bedding broke right in front of the magazine shaft, on both sides where the magazine shaft begins exactly.
I think that this section is to weak and gets some every shot.
So I´m planning on switching to a KRG Bravo.

And I swaped in a trigger spring from yodave, so the trigger is actually really fine, but I´m used to two-stage-triggers and am fighting a bit with this one.
I want to change the trigger to a Timney two-stage, which I´m using in my AR and am satisfied.

So:
If you only can afford one of them at a time, which one would you change first, stock or trigger?

Cheers,
Jay
 

DMP

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I asked this in a different forum but didn't get an answer. I have a TAC A1. Is there a different forend that will fit this? One without a top rail. I want to put a 20 moa rail on it ,but I have a 56 mm objective and I'm afraid I won't get clearance.
 

kentuckyMarksman

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Trigger or stock - which one would you rather upgrade?

Hey guys,
I´m building a CTR step by step because I´m a bit on a budget.

I´ve bedded the system in the original stock, but the bedding broke right in front of the magazine shaft, on both sides where the magazine shaft begins exactly.
I think that this section is to weak and gets some every shot.
So I´m planning on switching to a KRG Bravo.

And I swaped in a trigger spring from yodave, so the trigger is actually really fine, but I´m used to two-stage-triggers and am fighting a bit with this one.
I want to change the trigger to a Timney two-stage, which I´m using in my AR and am satisfied.

So:
If you only can afford one of them at a time, which one would you change first, stock or trigger?

Cheers,
Jay
If it were me, I'd change the stock first. To me, it sounds like you're having bigger issues with the bedding on your factory plastic stock than you are with your trigger.
 
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wade2big

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Trigger or stock - which one would you rather upgrade?

Hey guys,
I´m building a CTR step by step because I´m a bit on a budget.

I´ve bedded the system in the original stock, but the bedding broke right in front of the magazine shaft, on both sides where the magazine shaft begins exactly.
I think that this section is to weak and gets some every shot.
So I´m planning on switching to a KRG Bravo.

And I swaped in a trigger spring from yodave, so the trigger is actually really fine, but I´m used to two-stage-triggers and am fighting a bit with this one.
I want to change the trigger to a Timney two-stage, which I´m using in my AR and am satisfied.

So:
If you only can afford one of them at a time, which one would you change first, stock or trigger?

Cheers,
Jay
I like Timney 2 stage triggers for the 700 pattern rifles. I do not like it for the Tikka. It is a downgrade. I’m not anal about triggers so if I had to have a two stage I would have kept it. I could care less which I use so I pulled it and sold it.

As for the stock bedding i wouldn’t know. I don’t believe in bedding stocks. I compare bedding stocks to truing actions. It is something guys do to feel good
 
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strat81

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If you only can afford one of them at a time, which one would you change first, stock or trigger?
Change the stock.

If you're so inclined, you can modify the trigger spring or the adjustment screw. Making any of those parts shorter will reduce the pressure on the trigger and reduce pull weight. The springs are cheap enough to replace if you go too short and end up with an unsafe or inoperable trigger. If you modify the screw and go short, you can always just screw it deeper into the housing to increase pressure back where it should be.

Leave the pin alone because if you bugger it up, replacements must be hand-delivered by Finnish virgins for the low, low price of $87 like other Tikka parts.
 
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littlepod

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I asked this in a different forum but didn't get an answer. I have a TAC A1. Is there a different forend that will fit this? One without a top rail. I want to put a 20 moa rail on it ,but I have a 56 mm objective and I'm afraid I won't get clearance.
I'd just buy taller rings for your scope if that's the case...
 

SWWI Shooter

Sergeant of the Hide
Belligerents
Minuteman
May 30, 2018
325
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Trigger or stock - which one would you rather upgrade?

Hey guys,
I´m building a CTR step by step because I´m a bit on a budget.

I´ve bedded the system in the original stock, but the bedding broke right in front of the magazine shaft, on both sides where the magazine shaft begins exactly.
I think that this section is to weak and gets some every shot.
So I´m planning on switching to a KRG Bravo.

And I swaped in a trigger spring from yodave, so the trigger is actually really fine, but I´m used to two-stage-triggers and am fighting a bit with this one.
I want to change the trigger to a Timney two-stage, which I´m using in my AR and am satisfied.

So:
If you only can afford one of them at a time, which one would you change first, stock or trigger?

Cheers,
Jay
I would start with the stock as the Trigger w/ aftermarket spring is so good. Bear in mind that if you go with a Timney trigger, you will lose your bolt lock. KRG Tikka Triggers do have a bolt lock but are a bit more expensive than Timney. I had a KRG trigger and it was very nice but I found that I prefer a single stage so ended up going back to the factory trigger.
 

Krazy_jim

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SWWI, what do you mean you lose the bolt lock?
The Oem tikka trigger locks the bolt closed when the safety is on. The timney trigger removes that function.

Some hate it, some like it. Im okay with my bolt being locked, but would love a 2stage. So eventually I will purchase the krg midas
 

SWWI Shooter

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SWWI, what do you mean you lose the bolt lock?
Timney triggers don't have the pin that moves up when the rifle is put on safe to lock the bolt. With the timney, it acts like a remington (can cycle the bolt with the safety on). I don't know if it has the sear block either. Both the factory and the KRG have the sear block making it a safer with a low trigger pull weight in my opinion. FYI: I'm not 100% sure if the Timney has the sear block - I'm just assuming it doesn't due to the way it's constructed.
 

viking78

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Jul 6, 2011
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Trigger or stock - which one would you rather upgrade?

Hey guys,
I´m building a CTR step by step because I´m a bit on a budget.

I´ve bedded the system in the original stock, but the bedding broke right in front of the magazine shaft, on both sides where the magazine shaft begins exactly.
I think that this section is to weak and gets some every shot.
So I´m planning on switching to a KRG Bravo.

And I swaped in a trigger spring from yodave, so the trigger is actually really fine, but I´m used to two-stage-triggers and am fighting a bit with this one.
I want to change the trigger to a Timney two-stage, which I´m using in my AR and am satisfied.

So:
If you only can afford one of them at a time, which one would you change first, stock or trigger?

Cheers,
Jay
Get the Bravo first, and you might just like it how your trigger hands is lay in the Bravo straight grip, with Yodaves
spring you get it very sweet trigger feel.
I have Timney, KRG Tikka 2-stage trigger, but Tikka original trigger with yodave spring is one hell of a trigger, and cheap to tune :)
 

viking78

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I asked this in a different forum but didn't get an answer. I have a TAC A1. Is there a different forend that will fit this? One without a top rail. I want to put a 20 moa rail on it ,but I have a 56 mm objective and I'm afraid I won't get clearance.
You can swap the forend, if you use the 2 screw clamp type of forend.
That might look good on it.
 

Bugle

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Sep 26, 2019
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First post. I’m not sure if I came here to boast or to complain. Anyhow I bought my wife a T3X superlite in 243 Win. I shot three rounds at about 25 yards walking it towards the center of target. I then shot it 3 times from the porch railing (sand bagged, no wind) at a target 125 yards across the draw. I couldn’t tell if I even hit paper so I walked over to the target and found below. My wife’s first riffle, right out of the box, is more accurate than any rifle I’ve owned in 51 years. Gotta love those Tikkas, even if they’re not technically yours.
11EFCC46-05BE-48C2-8E35-2A207B9C226B.jpeg
 
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