Tikka T1X

skatz11

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I did a little ammo testing today at 50 and 100 yards.

My T1x seems like SK Rifle and Long Range. None of them shot bad. I’ll pass on the SK Standard from now on.

50yds, 5 round groups. Shot from a bench with a bipod and rear bag:

7106304

I’m glad to see the CCI SV still performing well for the price.

I need to do more 100y testing. These are a all 10 round groups the shot in two separate 5 round groups per target, rotating through. The SK LR seems legit (at least this box/lot)

7106306
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littlepod

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Wow that rifle match shoots well, along with the long range match. I really should be running that @ 100 yards... maybe I'll get a few boxes of that.

I did a 10x5 today @ 100 yards. SK Standard Plus, suppressed with the SilencerCo Sparrow. First time suppressed & prone with the rifle.

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Kisssofdeath

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Nice shooting guys. I want to shoot 100 yards but have to travel 45 minutes to do it. Kinda hard to do that when I can walk out back and start shooting at 55 yards. But, when I receive my auction toys that includes a Steyr SSG69 I will be making that trip for sure.
 

Shutrmgavin

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So, I have my t1x in 22 on its maiden voyage to the range and it won't fire. Feeds from the mag and the trigger clicks. Nothing. I know I'm an idiot but I've never had this happen. What am I doing wrong?

Also have dead air mask as first suppressors. Looks like it simply screws on snug?
 
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Jefe's Dope

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So, I have my t1x in 22 on its maiden voyage to the range and it won't fire. Feeds from the mag and the trigger clicks. Nothing. I know I'm an idiot but I've never had this happen. What am I doing wrong?

Also have dead air mask as first suppressors. Looks like it simply screws on snug?
You set the trigger too light. Back off the spring a ½ turn and see if the works.
 
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Boar Pig

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Looks and shoots great. How did you get it in the Grayboe stock? Are they making them for the T3 now?
I ordered it from the Grayboe custom website. I don’t see them advertised on there anymore. I wonder if Tikka’s recoil lug system didn’t fit in with Grayboe’s production program as well as the 700s do. That comment is purely speculation, maybe somebody will let us know what’s up. I’d love to see them offered again. I want one for my 17 HMR too.
 

Boar Pig

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@ Boar pig, that's putting them in there. Nice, real nice.
Thanks!

I'd like to be able to say the SK rifle match holds that tight out to 100 but it doesn't. I think the lower velocity hurts it a little. I'll put some pics from 100 yds up later. I have not tried center-x or SK long range, yet. UPS should be bringing me some on Monday.
 

Kisssofdeath

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My Tikka's have shot SK Rifle Match well too but I've found out that it depends on the Lot # whereas the Lapua Pistol King shoots great regardless of Lot # "so far". It's good to have a little variety in ammo, here is my current ammo selection. I also collect vintage ammo boxes, I have a lot more but it's stored away at the moment.

06-29-19.jpg
 

srt-4_uk

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Finally got around to shooting mine. No failures to feed, extract, or eject. Zero'd it in at 50 yards then dialed 17mils to hit the 300yd steel gong. You could barely hear the faintest *tink*. Dialed back to zero and smoked a fly on the 50yd target on my first shot. I love this damn rifle.
I was using Aguila Super Extra until I get some better ammo.
 

Kisssofdeath

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Finally got around to shooting mine. No failures to feed, extract, or eject. Zero'd it in at 50 yards then dialed 17mils to hit the 300yd steel gong. You could barely hear the faintest *tink*. Dialed back to zero and smoked a fly on the 50yd target on my first shot. I love this damn rifle.
I was using Aguila Super Extra until I get some better ammo.
I have one question and one statement.

What scope are you using? I'm more impressed with the scope, I know what a good Tikka can do. :)

The fact that you did that with Aguila Super Extra is amazing.

Regardless, that's pretty good. (y)
 

srt-4_uk

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Athlon Cronus (non BTR). I have it in a 28 moa AI mount and it leaves me with 21.5 mils of travel after the 50yd zero.
The Super Extra was at least the 38gr subsonic variety. I've found it to be slightly worse than CCI Standard in all my other rifles.
 

Kisssofdeath

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Nice, I have the Athlon Midas-TAC. I don't believe I've shot the Aguila Subsonic load. Shot a lot of their super fast ammo and the regular standard velocity. For me, that ammo is more of a miss than hit at longer ranges. I bought a case of standard velocity of it awhile back and it's pretty good for pistols at 25 yards. That's my experience anyway. Sounds like you have a good lot number.
 

Kisssofdeath

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I would guess those are 1" squares? That's pretty good shooting in my book.

I have cold bore flyers, but it's not always consistent. I consider it one of those phenomenons that comes along with shooting 22 rimfire.
 

littlepod

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My Tikka's have shot SK Rifle Match well too but I've found out that it depends on the Lot # whereas the Lapua Pistol King shoots great regardless of Lot # "so far". It's good to have a little variety in ammo, here is my current ammo selection. I also collect vintage ammo boxes, I have a lot more but it's stored away at the moment.

View attachment 7107414
Oh man so jealous. That's a lot of fun and testing with ammo :)

I just ordered 500 rounds of Long Range Match to try out since I don't have any 50 yard places to shoot, and they claim LR Match is better at 100 yards and beyond. I only had 1 box of rifle match, and it didn't shoot significantly better than my SK Standard Plus. Maybe a midge, like 0.9-1" avg versus my 1-1.1" avg on my SK Standard Plus.

Out of all that ammo, which one so far shoots the best for you @ 55? The Eley Match for me was fantastic, but I don't want to pay 30 cents a round for 22LR.
 

Kisssofdeath

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Oh man so jealous. That's a lot of fun and testing with ammo :)

I just ordered 500 rounds of Long Range Match to try out since I don't have any 50 yard places to shoot, and they claim LR Match is better at 100 yards and beyond. I only had 1 box of rifle match, and it didn't shoot significantly better than my SK Standard Plus. Maybe a midge, like 0.9-1" avg versus my 1-1.1" avg on my SK Standard Plus.

Out of all that ammo, which one so far shoots the best for you @ 55? The Eley Match for me was fantastic, but I don't want to pay 30 cents a round for 22LR.
Overall consistency belongs to Lapua Pistol King. I was buying it from Brownells for $7.79 a box, it's not on sale now. Last I bought was a case of it with a 10% discount and free shipping. I sold three bricks to my shooting buddy. I have to travel at least 45 minutes to get to a range with 100 yards. I hope to have some of that Long Range Match to try out. I'd be interested to know how yours does.
 

poke_53

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Should be cheaper than buying from a retailer. I paid $87.20 USD for mine after shipping. In fact, I paid for it last night. John says he usually does a small over run for additional folks to get their hands on them.
 
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cannoncrossfire

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The stock handle simply unscrews and the DIP screws on. The black section is removable for other knobs if desire something different. As for the Sterk, they are nice but can't see $100 in one. If my pricing is off someone correct me. Also, $100 is to my door.

@BenY 2013, I don't know the answer, just saying.
I recall someone not seeing the value in it anyway haha ;)
 

littlepod

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Did another 6x5 @ 100 yards today with SK+ and had some great groups. Averaged out 0.95" so getting better! Best group of the 6 below. I'm pretty sure any grouping I have that has a left & right variance is most likely shooter induced assuming there's really no wind change. Vertical variance could be the variance in velocity. When I have my body perfectly lined up, no change in cheek weld, and perfect follow through, it shoots groups always < 0.5", as soon as I let off a little bit, and come back on the rifle, some sort of left & right variance is introduced sometimes.

I shot these as fast as I could reliably so I didn't change my eye/body position.

7107932
 

Kisssofdeath

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I recall someone not seeing the value in it anyway haha ;)
🥴 Yeah, well I still think that holds true for the ones that are just straight down. But after shooting a couple of my Anschutz the other day with their factory swept bolt handle I could tell a difference in the ball knob location relative to my hand when shooting the Anschutz and the Tikka. That was when I started becoming interested in your swept bolt handle. I do believe "now" that there appears to be " I say appears because I haven't tried yours yet" a significant physical location and mechanical advantage in the swept design over the straight design. I believe I could work the bolt faster with more precision and consistency. Sometimes after I am done shooting paper I start on steel. I have a drill I run at 55 yards with a 1" swinger, two 2" swingers and a 3" swinger. They are mounted to a thick piece of rubber "like mining belt" so they get back in place really quick. They hang from the same bar and are around 10" apart from each other. I see how fast I can shoot 10 rounds without a miss. It is really fun to do.
 
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JMcBurn

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I wonder after 500 rounds of muscle memory on the Tikka stock bolt handle, how long it'll take to adjust to a swept back bolt...
I would say about 2 minutes. 😎
I can second that with my experience on a T3 handle. It just feels right from the first time you run it. Makes the already smooth bolt throw feel better than basically any custom I've tried.
 

Kisssofdeath

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Did another 6x5 @ 100 yards today with SK+ and had some great groups. Averaged out 0.95" so getting better! Best group of the 6 below. I'm pretty sure any grouping I have that has a left & right variance is most likely shooter induced assuming there's really no wind change. Vertical variance could be the variance in velocity. When I have my body perfectly lined up, no change in cheek weld, and perfect follow through, it shoots groups always < 0.5", as soon as I let off a little bit, and come back on the rifle, some sort of left & right variance is introduced sometimes.

I shot these as fast as I could reliably so I didn't change my eye/body position.

View attachment 7107932
Man, that is fantastic for 100 yards.
 
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Eoddave27

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So has anyone tried heating the factory bolt handle with a touch and bending it back? It is basically a hollow tube so shouldn’t be that hard to do. Once it is bent just add one of the plastic ball ends. I’m thinking about taking a spare bolt handle I have and trying it. It would seem like it would be pretty easy. The only real issue I can see is you can’t bend it a whole lot or you will not be able to tighten the bolt back in. I have not tried one of the back swept bolt knobs but after hearing how much everyone likes them I may be in the market for one for my T3x and T1x.
 
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cannoncrossfire

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So has anyone tried heating the factory bolt handle with a touch and bending it back? It is basically a hollow tube so shouldn’t be that hard to do. Once it is bent just add one of the plastic ball ends. I’m thinking about taking a spare bolt handle I have and trying it. It would seem like it would be pretty easy. The only real issue I can see is you can’t bend it a whole lot or you will not be able to tighten the bolt back in. I have not tried one of the back swept bolt knobs but after hearing how much everyone likes them I may be in the market for one for my T3x and T1x.
Lol bend it and then figure out how to screw the screw back through the handle?... there's more to it than just bending the handle and screwing it on. It took me 6 months of design and prototyping as well as a lot of custom parts to make it possible (yes I'm a little slow ;) )
Feel free to see how much bend you can get before the screw can't go in, I'd genuinely be interested to see.
 

Eoddave27

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I think the way to do it would be to leave the bolt in the handle. When you get it hot enough to bend insert the wrench to tighten the bolt and bend it until it starts to bind then back off just a touch. I just don’t know how much bend I will be able to get before the wrench starts to bind. I actually fabricate experimental parts for a living and have performed similar operations in the past, just never on a rifle bolt.
 
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cannoncrossfire

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I think the way to do it would be to leave the bolt in the handle. When you get it hot enough to bend insert the wrench to tighten the bolt and bend it until it starts to bind then back off just a touch. I just don’t know how much bend I will be able to get before the wrench starts to bind. I actually fabricate experimental parts for a living and have performed similar operations in the past, just never on a rifle bolt.
Nice, you can possibly shorten some of the thread on the screw so it doesn't need to back out as much, but obviously still need enough to make it strong enough to lift and operate.
It's a short head m5 stainless cap screw they've used.
 

Eoddave27

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I will honestly just buy one of your handles for my rifle once they are available here but I have an extra bolt handle and some free time so it is worth a try. Even if I can get the bolt handle to bend the way I want it without crimping I don’t think the ergonomics of it will be quite right. It looks like it will be too short and not be able to bend back far enough. Add to that I will still have to buy the little $40 ball knob or make one of those too and buying one of your bolt handles is really a no brainer. It will still be a fun experiment though.
 
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Jefe's Dope

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Need a round holder for a match this weekend. Any suggestions?

Like this but for .22lr

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littlepod

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Did another 7x5 today @ 100 yards (top right is cold barrel + sight in). Still SK+ as my Long Range Match and Pistol King haven't arrived yet.

Some new things, installed the Vortex Lo Pro Bubble Level and noticed I am always off cant, not by much, but 2 degrees is definitely going to cause a shift in my POI. I wonder if me buying the adjustable buttpad for the KRG and having that rotate 1-2 degrees would fix this so I'm not natually canting.

I also signed up for the snipers hide training material, and got a few videos in, one of them was on parallax. I noticed that when my scope is set to 100 yards on the parallax setting, the targets are really sharp, but it's not parallax free. Doing the parallax test, I was probably in between the 100yd - 200yd setting, and the image was still relatively sharp, then it was parallax free. Noticed no change in reticle as I bobbed my head around. Kind of hard to bob your head too and wonder if it's your head bobbing, vs your rifle shifting from you bobbing..

So fixing the parallax, and verifying my cant before doing my shots, definitely helped tighten things up. What I've generally been calling "flyers" I would say is just shooter error. On a 22 every little micro movement really amplifies at 200 yards. All the really tight groups I can confidently say are when I pulled the trigger during the proper exhale and least amount of movement, and the "flyers" are me just not feeling the most comfortable with the shot... either rushing it or having just some sort of tenseness where the natural point of aim, was just not natural.

I think with a better shooter, this SK+ and T1X can probably pull consistently 0.7-0.8 moa at 100 yards I bet.

7108809
 

Jefe's Dope

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So, I have my t1x in 22 on its maiden voyage to the range and it won't fire. Feeds from the mag and the trigger clicks. Nothing. I know I'm an idiot but I've never had this happen. What am I doing wrong?

Also have dead air mask as first suppressors. Looks like it simply screws on snug?
Did you ever get this resolved?