Tikka T1X

Jefe's Dope

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16" appears to either not have been released yet or is Europe market only.




Added the KRG tool-less buttpad height mechanism and the hook cover. I did the cover in black instead of FDE for some flair. 🤓

The tool-less buttpad is 14" from trigger to pad w/ no spacers. One spacer w/o the tool-less mechanism was 13.5" trigger to pad. It's really nice and works well.

7095679


 

cannoncrossfire

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I'm pretty happy with my T3X CTR Bolt Handle, do you guys know where I would get basically the exact same thing for my T1X?

The Sterk Swept Ball Handle looks fantastic, but if I'm going to do that for the T1X, then I want to do it for my T3X, and that doubles the cost.
No other maker is offering a swept ball handle for the t1x. There is a straight ball handle from High Velocity Hunting, but because the handle screws on, a bent handle is a challenge - unless the thread is 'timed' a screw on bent handle could end up pointing in any direction.

For the T3 these are the options:
Brownells Tikka Plastic knob extension: $49.99US
Glades Armory Swept Ball: $59.99US
Sterk swept ball: $68US
Anarchy outdoors: $59.99US handle + $34.99 round knob = $94.98US
 
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GentleBen

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This is a T1x is a Boyd’s stock, which I had originally purchased for a T3 I have in .243.

View attachment 7095427

I had to drill a hole for the trigger guard tab and I had to dremel out a small amount of material to get the mag well to fit, and then a little fine tuning to get the mag to drop freely. Easy modification. Hopefully some T1x stocks will start hitting the market.

The Vortex Razor LH 3-15x with G4 reticle is a great little (~16 oz) scope for this one in 17HMR...the round is impotent once it starts dropping, so I’m enjoying a simple reticle with no guilt of untapped potential. Haha
Did about the same. Picked up a Boyds At-One Thumbhole laminate stock in nutmeg. Did a little Dremel work in the mag well area and touched up the barrel channel just a bit to ensure free floating.

Put a Nightforce SHV 5-20x56 atop. Took it out and shot one-hole at 25 and mostly Moa at 50 yards. Had to battle 94+ heat and gusty wind as a rare cool front approached down here in La. (only cooled off to 89 next day).

I have a lot of quality ammo stockpiled for this rifle and my Kidd. It going to be a hot but fun summer.

2FE0618C-082F-4434-9502-CDD9E0691856.jpeg
 

GentleBen

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Did about the same. Picked up a Boyds At-One Thumbhole laminate stock in nutmeg. Did a little Dremel work in the mag well area and touched up the barrel channel just a bit to ensure free floating.

Put a Nightforce SHV 5-20x56 atop. Took it out and shot one-hole at 25 and mostly Moa at 50 yards. Had to battle 94+ heat and gusty wind as a rare cool front approached down here in La. (only cooled off to 89 next day).

I have a lot of quality ammo stockpiled for this rifle and my Kidd. It going to be a hot but fun summer.

View attachment 7095834
Installed a DiP rail and DiP Extended bolt handle. Using a cheap Caldwell bipod temporarily. Added a Mountain Tactical trigger spring to get about a 1.25 lbs pull.

Stock is very comfortable and adjustments are spot on.
 

pazzo

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@Jmp1973 can you post up or PM me some photos of your Murphy Precision rail? How far does it overhang barrel (extend past the receiver)?
 

Sledge1

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Sledge, post your target to the 6X5 thread. The T1X is not very well represented there.
I posted one that I shot Friday. I was more in a testing mode today. I plan to shoot it every week weather permitting.
You and I seem to be the only 2 on the list at this point. Hopefully that'll change in the future.
 

ed99

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I'm pretty happy with my T3X CTR Bolt Handle, do you guys know where I would get basically the exact same thing for my T1X?

The Sterk Swept Ball Handle looks fantastic, but if I'm going to do that for the T1X, then I want to do it for my T3X, and that doubles the cost.
Tikka sells a plastic "sport" that is identical to the CTR knob. I picked one up and it is the same...7096448
 
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Lmatt

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Got a chance to shoot today. But I forgot my sand bag and allen wrenches to adjust my trigger. Used my shooting mat on my portable bench and I didn’t feel stable especially with the heavy trigger pull. So I just decided to shoot close(30 yards ish). Plus my scope is too high. So I can’t get a consistent cheek weld. Which is a problem because the eye box is tight on 35. but the results seem promising. Has anyone tried gold medal target. Here is the only group I shot with it. The first shot was the one to the left. The next 9 grouped fairly well. The worst group I shot was with CCI Standard Velocity
7096449
 
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0dd

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Mar 7, 2018
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@Jmp1973 can you post up or PM me some photos of your Murphy Precision rail? How far does it overhang barrel (extend past the receiver)?
not @Jmp1973 but here is a pic of mine, Sorry it is not the best view of just the rail but is the best I have available here at work. If you want a different view let me know and I will try and get it tonight after kid goes down.
 

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RJW6220

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Jan 18, 2019
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I use
I'm using a 12 inch Arca rail of ebay, slight curve when I installed it, but works with all of my Arca attachments including a tripod with a 4 inch clamp. This Arca rail allows some flex to follow the forend.

On my Vudoo, I ran two rail sections, a 6 inch and an 8 inch, but the one 12 inch is a cleaner look.

Ed
Actually I’m running an amazon 14” double arca rail on my arca! The extra rigidity I f the double let’s you run it just fine even with the angle in the fore end!
 

RJW6220

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Jan 18, 2019
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The Arca Rail issue is what has kept me from pulling the trigger on the Oryx. The clamp slides and locks up on that rail even with the curve, eh? Interesting... 🤔
I’m running this rail on my oryx! Works really well due to the added rigidity of the dual arca!

 

littlepod

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Okay here's my setup, non arca-rail for now.

Tikka T1X
Athlon Ares BTR 4.5-27x50
DIP 25 moa rail.
Vortex Precision 30mm .9" rings
KRG Bravo
Atlas BT46-LW17 PSR

I have a Sterk Swept Back Bolt Handle coming in a few weeks., and I am going to order the wiebad mini stock pad I think. 20" barrel with a suppressor is a bit unwieldy. I might want to cut this down to like 18" or 16.5" or something. Also with caps on the scope, I have about .1" of space before touching the barrel.

I'm not that great of a shooter, at 27x I can definitely see movement as I'm ready to pull the trigger. I also I noticed trying to center the crosshair in the krg bravo squares did not fair well for me, it'd been better for me to just line up the crosshair with like a bottom right corner of the square instead of trying to center it.

So here's me on paper @ 100 yards. I do better centering cross hairs onto bullseyes then on 1" squares. At the end of the day, I went 4 for 4 on the 1/2" clothespins that held up the papers. Also went 10 for 10 on a 2" targets duraseal targets @ 100 yards.

I'm very happy with the ergos of the chassis and it felt great behind the rifle.
 

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RJW6220

Private
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Jan 18, 2019
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6
Okay here's my setup, non arca-rail for now.

Tikka T1X
Athlon Ares BTR 4.5-27x50
DIP 25 moa rail.
Vortex Precision 30mm .9" rings
KRG Bravo
Atlas BT46-LW17 PSR

I have a Sterk Swept Back Bolt Handle coming in a few weeks., and I am going to order the wiebad mini stock pad I think. 20" barrel with a suppressor is a bit unwieldy. I might want to cut this down to like 18" or 16.5" or something. Also with caps on the scope, I have about .1" of space before touching the barrel.

I'm not that great of a shooter, at 27x I can definitely see movement as I'm ready to pull the trigger. I also I noticed trying to center the crosshair in the krg bravo squares did not fair well for me, it'd been better for me to just line up the crosshair with like a bottom right corner of the square instead of trying to center it.

So here's me on paper @ 100 yards. I do better centering cross hairs onto bullseyes then on 1" squares. At the end of the day, I went 4 for 4 on the 1/2" clothespins that held up the papers. Also went 10 for 10 on a 2" targets duraseal targets @ 100 yards.

I'm very happy with the ergos of the chassis and it felt great behind the rifle.
I’m definitely trying to pickup an ares ETR! Really wanna get something with a tree reticle.
 

kentuckyMarksman

Sergeant of the Hide
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May 7, 2018
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16" appears to either not have been released yet or is Europe market only.




Added the KRG tool-less buttpad height mechanism and the hook cover. I did the cover in black instead of FDE for some flair. 🤓

The tool-less buttpad is 14" from trigger to pad w/ no spacers. One spacer w/o the tool-less mechanism was 13.5" trigger to pad. It's really nice and works well.

View attachment 7095679


That is one fine looking rifle! That FDE looks really nice.
 
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McReef

I don’t remember saying that...
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Mar 25, 2019
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Got out for a little range time and playing around. I am really liking this little machine. It is a cool change from shooting the bigger stuff. I didn’t really believe it the first couple of times, but settling in I was surprised I could actually watch the flight of the round. Kind of amazing, I had never seen that before, and certainly did not expect it.

CE9460A7-D6A3-44AD-BC3A-570783FBA6DA.jpeg

Out of what I have tried so far, Wolf “Match Extra” seems to shoot most consistently for me. At 50 I can keep it under a half inch on the X axis with maybe half of those at damn near a quarter inch or less of spread. I am seeing as much as an inch of vertical stringing though at that range, and this opens up to 3 or sometimes almost 4 inches of vertical spread at 100 yards. I am still well under an inch of X axis spread at that range. Is this typical with these 22’s, or should I continue my hunt for something that shoots better from her?
 

Jefe's Dope

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Dec 20, 2017
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Got out for a little range time and playing around. I am really liking this little machine. It is a cool change from shooting the bigger stuff. I didn’t really believe it the first couple of times, but settling in I was surprised I could actually watch the flight of the round. Kind of amazing, I had never seen that before, and certainly did not expect it.

View attachment 7097422

Out of what I have tried so far, Wolf “Match Extra” seems to shoot most consistently for me. At 50 I can keep it under a half inch on the X axis with maybe half of those at damn near a quarter inch or less of spread. I am seeing as much as an inch of vertical stringing though at that range, and this opens up to 3 or sometimes almost 4 inches of vertical spread at 100 yards. I am still well under an inch of X axis spread at that range. Is this typical with these 22’s, or should I continue my hunt for something that shoots better from her?
Which scope?
 

la angler

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I handled one of the Tikka's last week and liked it good to see they shoot
 

littlepod

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I’m definitely trying to pickup an ares ETR! Really wanna get something with a tree reticle.
I have the ETR and the BTR. I don't know if the ETR is worth 2x the BTR... (BTR was $550, ETR was $1050)

Biggest difference is the floating dot reticle ETR vs the + center on the BTR. Clarity wise the ETR is slightly better.
 

littlepod

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So I've shot only 70 rounds yesterday, and out of the 70 I've had 2 FTE. And the rest of the cases, only get flung like 6-10 inches away. I notice that the last round usually ends up getting flung the least, since there's no round left in the magazine to help "lift" the casing.

Is there a break-in period? For the recent T1X owners here posting their groups / tests, how far are your casings getting flung?
 

poke_53

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I have the ETR and the BTR. I don't know if the ETR is worth 2x the BTR... (BTR was $550, ETR was $1050)

Biggest difference is the floating dot reticle ETR vs the + center on the BTR. Clarity wise the ETR is slightly better.
When considering the Ares BTR at its normal price of $850 the ETR shine in a few areas. Turrets are much better, glass is better, 34mm tube lets in quite a bit more light. I’ve got a Midas TAC in my 455 and T1X and an ETR in my 6creed. All 3 are great scopes though.
 

McReef

I don’t remember saying that...
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Mar 25, 2019
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So I've shot only 70 rounds yesterday, and out of the 70 I've had 2 FTE. And the rest of the cases, only get flung like 6-10 inches away. I notice that the last round usually ends up getting flung the least, since there's no round left in the magazine to help "lift" the casing.

Is there a break-in period? For the recent T1X owners here posting their groups / tests, how far are your casings getting flung?
Check out my pic a couple posts up. Most of my brass never leaves the bench. I haven’t had any FTE’s yet out of a few hundred rounds, though I have had 2 or 3 hang a bit when feeding. Minor hangs, but enough that I had to break position to see what was going on.
 

Europa

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Jan 31, 2019
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There is an issue with the ejection spring design (according to the repair location). Mine has been back for service and had the ejection assembly replaced, and like yours, covers the bench. I am still having FTE's.
 

littlepod

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There is an issue with the ejection spring design (according to the repair location). Mine has been back for service and had the ejection assembly replaced, and like yours, covers the bench. I am still having FTE's.
That's really unfortunate :(. I hope this gets sorted out... the magazine with the light spring might be an additional factor. Let us know what you figure out... I'd love to have the rifle much more reliable. 2 FTE in 70 rounds is not acceptable..
 

SporterII

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400 rds. Wolf MT and no mag or ejection failures. Stock is too lightweight my only complaint. My CZ”s had nice wood but this Tikka is next gen for sure in my case.
 

Europa

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That's really unfortunate :(. I hope this gets sorted out... the magazine with the light spring might be an additional factor. Let us know what you figure out... I'd love to have the rifle much more reliable. 2 FTE in 70 rounds is not acceptable..
Had another chance to shoot today. I bent the ejection spring out slightly by twisting a small screwdriver under the spring. It seemed to help slightly with only one FTE in 50. CCI SV. Much better than my 1 in 10 average prior to service. I still feel the spring needs a re-design. Once people get wind of these issues they tend to steer clear for a while and purchase other brands ...
 

littlepod

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@Europa do you happen to have a pic of your bent/modified ejection spring by chance??
Similarly I saw a post from @Kisssofdeath who managed to fix this for his 2nd T1X as well by bending the ejector? Any more detail on the work?

I also read on rimfire central about folks deburring some edges which fixed things.
 

Kisssofdeath

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Here are a few photos of my modified/bent ejector. After this bend I now have 100% ejection with all ammo. It's not quite the same bend as Europa. Europa appears to have more of a continuous bend or curve. Europa, please correct me if I am wrong. Mine has a bent location then straightens back. As mine come out of the front location it goes through it's factory bend the goes straight. Can then see where there is a slight bend then goes straight again. That my only bend. My other Tikka 22 and my 17 HMR as ejected as expected from the start. In the 3rd photo, the reflection off the ejector in the camera flash is where the bend is

7098626


7098624

7098628
 
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Europa

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I used a small screwdriver for the initial try at the center point, so that could explain where the bend ended up. When I tried a larger screwdriver, it looked like the spring was starting to pull out at the front, so I backed off on that approach.
 

littlepod

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Took out the Tikka again and shot another 60 rounds through it. I got some extra magazines and rotated through the magazines. The first 10 bullets or so, the rounds still kind of landed right near the bench. But by the end of the session, when I ejected the round they flew out about 1.5 feet away with a lot of spin to it, so I'm not sure what happened. But I had 0 FTEs in this session and everything went smooth.

I mainly shot at the 2" duraseal target @ 100 yards, and a 3" duraseal target @ 200 yards. Rifle is just so much fun/easy to shoot.

I'm curious what others are dialing with their ammo. I'm running SK Standard Plus.

25 yd zero from previous session. (I didn't recheck the zero)

2.4 mil up, .2 mil L for 100 yards.
8.4 mil up, and .4 mil L for 200 yards.

Went back on paper at 100 yards and 200 yards and took my time and got my best groups so far.

100 yards

7098800

200 yards

7098802
 
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Kisssofdeath

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I used a small screwdriver for the initial try at the center point, so that could explain where the bend ended up. When I tried a larger screwdriver, it looked like the spring was starting to pull out at the front, so I backed off on that approach.
I used small needle nose pliers to grab the ejector where my bend is and pull outward while twisting the handles of the pliers towards the chamber. Hopefully I explained that well enough so everyone can understand the sequence.

As far as ejection distance goes, it doesn't matter to me if the empties are tossed 6" or 6' as long as they clear.
 

littlepod

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I used small needle nose pliers to grab the ejector where my bend is and pull outward while twisting the handles of the pliers towards the chamber. Hopefully I explained that well enough so everyone can understand the sequence.

As far as ejection distance goes, it doesn't matter to me if the empties are tossed 6" or 6' as long as they clear.
Thanks for the pictures. Agree! I don't care how far it goes as long as it goes. It was weird today, the first 80 or so rounds I shot the casing kind of just plopped out of my rifle, no real spin to the casing. I started noticing at least with the last 30 rounds or so, they started coming out with a lot of spin, and travelling further.

I just took a picture right now to see how it compares:
7098816
 

Jmp1973

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Feb 19, 2018
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I flipped through a bunch of pages did the 16" barrel SKU ever come up? I want to order a 16" for the kids, since it will always have a supressor on it.
I’m running this rail on my oryx! Works really well due to the added rigidity of the dual arca!

Can you post some pics?