Thank you for the reply, so do you have it figured out to when you go back to .260 from .338 you can repeatedly get a consistent zero?I've had mine for a limited time but did observe a decent amount of shift between .260 and .338 that was repeatable within one to two tenths of a mil. I had close to one mil windage and .5 mil elevation going from the .260 to .338. I did purchase all components used and don't really know the part's service history or treatment by previous owners.
Based on advice from other MRAD owners there are a few things I could have done to mitigate this:
-Install barrel with rifle vertical so that the barrel's weight seats it against the shoulder while tightening the bolts
-Mitigate minor play between barrel index pin and index notch by rotating barrel to right or left as it is seated (just do it the same way)
-Tighten bolts alternately 1/4 to 1/2 turn until tight, but torque front bolt first
A caliber conversion, especially if purchased on the PX, is going to be significantly cheaper than even the optics on another rifle. For me that was the appeal of this system in the first place.
I have not switched them and shot groups after enough to be confident yet and have yet to make a controlled test of it. When I do, I'll put results up.Thank you for the reply, so do you have it figured out to when you go back to .260 from .338 you can repeatedly get a consistent zero?
Digging the RAL8000 S&B. I've thought about having the reticle in mine (MSR) redone to H2CMR or Tremor3.Or a S&B 5-25 with h-37 in a Geissele mount . Sad all my FDE not quite matching lol.
Not the most scientific test today, but I did try the sequence I posted above a couple times today and here are the results from one iteration:Thank you for the reply, so do you have it figured out to when you go back to .260 from .338 you can repeatedly get a consistent zero?
Sure. I have never printed anything decent with the Hornady 285gr BTHP, but the group was fairly representative. It was $2.30 a round, so still worth it for this kind of thing and the brass. I shot two other groups with it that were about the same.That is similar to the results I saw with my friends mrad.. how did the .338 group look ? Or where you even shooting groups with .338?
I'm running the 6Mil cant version, QDP-4602 with Vortex Gen2 Razor 4.5-27x56mm. This is actually on my AI AXMC-SA. you should have room to put on front caps.ANy of you guys running a SPuhr mount with a 56mm scope. I am trying to figure out which one will work on this.
I Have bought my MRAD May 2017. My breech size is 0,95"Information is sparse on these guns at least on the forums. There have been a lot revisions to the MRAD since inception that can be confusing to follow. However, you need to have at least some idea because some of the parts are not compatible.
For those who have recently purchased a new MRAD, what size breech are they? I was never really clear on this and a call to Barrett CS was not much help.
For discussion's sake, I have both here:
Large bolt face (.338lm) and body: ~1.1" diameter bolt body
Small bolt face ("C" marked, .308 family case head) and body: ~.95" bolt body
View attachment 6996593
On factory replacement barrels, It looks like the non-CF barrel kits are ~$1250 at the usual retailers. You do get a matched bolt head, barrel bag, and magazine at least.
Thanks, and that is a .338?I Have bought my MRAD May 2017. My breech size is 0,95"
Oh my...and that is very competitive on a CF barrel kit if pricing holds. Love this platform and am hoping it gains more traction.BTW 300 PRC barrel kits are now available on the Barrett Website. Fluted and Carbon Fiber barrels are same price @ $1575/per kit.
Wait, have you even shot yours yet?I thought they all came with a 2 stage till I got my MRAD a few weeks ago lol I would prefer a 2 stage sense every other gun I own is... but don't feel like spending over $300 to replace a already great trigger..
Yes, sure .. its .338 LMThanks, and that is a .338?
Oh my...and that is very competitive on a CF barrel kit if pricing holds. Love this platform and am hoping it gains more traction.
.300 PRC is tempting as it should be OK to run through a .300wm rated suppressor.
Wait, have you even shot yours yet?
Not sure, but when you do I think you're supposed to find a ghost writer and release a book about it, and then maybe sell some memorabilia on ebay.https://forum.snipershide.com/threads/fs-barrett-mrad-338-lapua-w-nightforce-beast-brand-new.6924306/
So the real question is, how do I TiN an entire gun?
Thanks for the tip. I am all over that 26" 338LM as soon as I sell my Surgeon.Check out the EurOptic MRAD's on closeout.
I have the 22" 308WIN, 24" 6.5CM and 26" 338LM.Thanks for the tip. I am all over that 26" 338LM as soon as I sell my Surgeon.
Would be interested in people's opinions on which conversion kit they would add to it and why. Currently I am shooting 6.5 Creedmoor from the Surgeon, however, it occurred to me that the 6.5 really benefits from barrel length where as the 308 seems to be able to get away with a shorter barrel. In the case of the MRAD, it looks like Barrett has had some great results with the 17" 308, which is really impressive and a bit of a shock to me.
Anyhow, my thinking was that a 308/338 setup would really give me 2 completely different rifles, with a compact "lightweight" 308 good to 1100/1200 yards and then the big daddy for everything else. Seems perhaps more reasonable than a 300WM/338LM setup, or a 6.5/338LM setup. Would love to hear other people's setups and opinions though. I still have a bit of this thread to read as well, so I apologize if it has already been covered.
I have the 22" 308WIN, 24" 6.5CM and 26" 338LM.
I got out of 300WM because there was little point to it with a 338 around.
I primarily shoot the 6.5 because I have semi autos in 308 and 6.5 can still get out to 338 distances where you don't need the energy on target. Plus its quite a bit cheaper per round obviously. I keep the 308 kit around because why not; it has fantastic barrel life, the caliber isn't going away and I have a metric ton of stuff to reload for it.
Only problem I see in your idea is that 17" 308 barrel is going to really need to get pushed hard to get your velocities to get to 1100.