The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!

mgrs

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Have an mrad in 6.5 and have been very happy with it. Want to get into 338 and trying to decide on getting a conversion kit or a separate rifle. I am wondering when changing calibers how accurate the return to zero is.
I've had mine for a limited time but did observe a decent amount of shift between .260 and .338 that was repeatable within one to two tenths of a mil. I had close to one mil windage and .5 mil elevation going from the .260 to .338. I did purchase all components used and don't really know the part's service history or treatment by previous owners.

Based on advice from other MRAD owners there are a few things I could have done to mitigate this:

-Install barrel with rifle vertical so that the barrel's weight seats it against the shoulder while tightening the bolts
-Mitigate minor play between barrel index pin and index notch by rotating barrel to right or left as it is seated (just do it the same way)
-Tighten bolts alternately 1/4 to 1/2 turn until tight, but torque front bolt first

A caliber conversion, especially if purchased on the PX, is going to be significantly cheaper than even the optics on another rifle. For me that was the appeal of this system in the first place.
 
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Wildfire1550

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I've had mine for a limited time but did observe a decent amount of shift between .260 and .338 that was repeatable within one to two tenths of a mil. I had close to one mil windage and .5 mil elevation going from the .260 to .338. I did purchase all components used and don't really know the part's service history or treatment by previous owners.

Based on advice from other MRAD owners there are a few things I could have done to mitigate this:

-Install barrel with rifle vertical so that the barrel's weight seats it against the shoulder while tightening the bolts
-Mitigate minor play between barrel index pin and index notch by rotating barrel to right or left as it is seated (just do it the same way)
-Tighten bolts alternately 1/4 to 1/2 turn until tight, but torque front bolt first

A caliber conversion, especially if purchased on the PX, is going to be significantly cheaper than even the optics on another rifle. For me that was the appeal of this system in the first place.
Thank you for the reply, so do you have it figured out to when you go back to .260 from .338 you can repeatedly get a consistent zero?
 

mgrs

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Would one of you with a newer .338 mind posting what size breech they are shipping with?


Thank you for the reply, so do you have it figured out to when you go back to .260 from .338 you can repeatedly get a consistent zero?
I have not switched them and shot groups after enough to be confident yet and have yet to make a controlled test of it. When I do, I'll put results up.

I might use .260 and .308 instead of the 338 for cost's sake.

Or a S&B 5-25 with h-37 in a Geissele mount . Sad all my FDE not quite matching lol.
Digging the RAL8000 S&B. I've thought about having the reticle in mine (MSR) redone to H2CMR or Tremor3.
 

mgrs

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Thank you for the reply, so do you have it figured out to when you go back to .260 from .338 you can repeatedly get a consistent zero?
Not the most scientific test today, but I did try the sequence I posted above a couple times today and here are the results from one iteration:

100yards, factory prime ammunition, which is normally around 1moa for 5-round groups at this distance

shoot 3 rounds .260
replace .260 barrel with .338
shoot three rounds .338
replace .338 with .260
shoot three rounds .260
remove and replace .260 barrel
shoot three rounds .260

I did call the outlier (was the third round of the second .260 group) and do not think I can attribute it to the rifle system.

You don't see the .338 impacts as they are 1 mil left of the .260 group.

IMG_1421.JPG
 

mgrs

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That is similar to the results I saw with my friends mrad.. how did the .338 group look ? Or where you even shooting groups with .338?
Sure. I have never printed anything decent with the Hornady 285gr BTHP, but the group was fairly representative. It was $2.30 a round, so still worth it for this kind of thing and the brass. I shot two other groups with it that were about the same.

Of course I could also be anticipating it with the recoil shooting from the bench.

My .338 barrel is older (2013) and shows some heat cracking under a bore scope.
IMG_1422.JPG
 
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mgrs

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Load development today for the .260 with 130gr ELD-X and 139gr Lapua Scenars.

Not the best group of the day, but would have been without the flyer.

42.8gr H4350, 139gr scenar at 2.800 OAL, Prime Brass, Win WLR primer. 5 rounds at 100 yards....these things can shoot.
IMG_1425.JPG
 
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DDRH65CM

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ANy of you guys running a SPuhr mount with a 56mm scope. I am trying to figure out which one will work on this.
I'm running the 6Mil cant version, QDP-4602 with Vortex Gen2 Razor 4.5-27x56mm. This is actually on my AI AXMC-SA. you should have room to put on front caps.
https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/isms/sp/34/6/qdp-4602.htm

If you go with a canted model, make sure your scopes got enough vertical adjustments so you can zero @ 100yards/meters.
 

Raik

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Information is sparse on these guns at least on the forums. There have been a lot revisions to the MRAD since inception that can be confusing to follow. However, you need to have at least some idea because some of the parts are not compatible.

For those who have recently purchased a new MRAD, what size breech are they? I was never really clear on this and a call to Barrett CS was not much help.

For discussion's sake, I have both here:

Large bolt face (.338lm) and body: ~1.1" diameter bolt body
Small bolt face ("C" marked, .308 family case head) and body: ~.95" bolt body

View attachment 6996593

On factory replacement barrels, It looks like the non-CF barrel kits are ~$1250 at the usual retailers. You do get a matched bolt head, barrel bag, and magazine at least.
I Have bought my MRAD May 2017. My breech size is 0,95" IMG_5563.JPG
 

Blaster7Romeo

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I thought they all came with a 2 stage till I got my MRAD a few weeks ago lol I would prefer a 2 stage sense every other gun I own is... but don't feel like spending over $300 to replace a already great trigger..
 

mgrs

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I Have bought my MRAD May 2017. My breech size is 0,95"
Thanks, and that is a .338?

BTW 300 PRC barrel kits are now available on the Barrett Website. Fluted and Carbon Fiber barrels are same price @ $1575/per kit.
Oh my...and that is very competitive on a CF barrel kit if pricing holds. Love this platform and am hoping it gains more traction.

.300 PRC is tempting as it should be OK to run through a .300wm rated suppressor.

I thought they all came with a 2 stage till I got my MRAD a few weeks ago lol I would prefer a 2 stage sense every other gun I own is... but don't feel like spending over $300 to replace a already great trigger..
Wait, have you even shot yours yet?
 

Blaster7Romeo

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I zeroed it last weekend when the rain actualy stopped and of course there has been dry firing practice laying in the floor at my house lol


I would assume a .300 PRC would be fine with a good .300 wm can... It is kind of just a hot hand loded 300wm and less than a 300 NM
 

Raik

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Thanks, and that is a .338?



Oh my...and that is very competitive on a CF barrel kit if pricing holds. Love this platform and am hoping it gains more traction.

.300 PRC is tempting as it should be OK to run through a .300wm rated suppressor.



Wait, have you even shot yours yet?
Yes, sure .. its .338 LM
 

mgrs

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Finally got around to putting a set of go/no go gauges in my .260 and .308 MRAD barrel kits. They will both close on the No-Go gauge and are the only barrels/bolts I own that will close on it. I don't have a Field Gauge to drop in.

I am not my 4th firing of a set of .260 brass with no need to trim, so I would not think it is that bad.

Any ideas?
 

acudaowner

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very nice gun were you able to see it with your own eyes before buying? I looked into them but had to travel 4 hrs away if i even wanted to see one. Which is why i did not get it yet maybe one day :cry::cry:
 

Delta23

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Ok, this thread is killing me. I am pretty sure the MRAD is for me. I love my Surgeon 6.5 Creedmoor and was about to build another in .338 Lapua, but now I am thinking I might just sell mine and go with a compact 17" 308 and a 26" .338LM conversion kit. I got to handle the MRAD at a local store the other day and the rifle felt great, as did the trigger.
 

Delta23

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Check out the EurOptic MRAD's on closeout.
Thanks for the tip. I am all over that 26" 338LM as soon as I sell my Surgeon.

Would be interested in people's opinions on which conversion kit they would add to it and why. Currently I am shooting 6.5 Creedmoor from the Surgeon, however, it occurred to me that the 6.5 really benefits from barrel length where as the 308 seems to be able to get away with a shorter barrel. In the case of the MRAD, it looks like Barrett has had some great results with the 17" 308, which is really impressive and a bit of a shock to me.

Anyhow, my thinking was that a 308/338 setup would really give me 2 completely different rifles, with a compact "lightweight" 308 good to 1100/1200 yards and then the big daddy for everything else. Seems perhaps more reasonable than a 300WM/338LM setup, or a 6.5/338LM setup. Would love to hear other people's setups and opinions though. I still have a bit of this thread to read as well, so I apologize if it has already been covered.
 

mgrs

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300WM/.338 seems duplicative unless you only shoot factory ammunition or have a .30 cal suppressor.

6.5/.338 is not bad. You'll shoot 6.5 a lot more. I started with a .260/.338 and came to think of it more like having a .260 rifle with a .338 in the safe. I found that going across calibers, I really wanted to re-zero it each time as you really have to be on top of your data management game with this multi-caliber system.

.308/.338 would make a lot of sense if you don't compete or need a 6.5 class caliber. The short .308 barrel really transforms it into a different rifle. Even with a 300sps suppressor attached, it is an inch shorter and still a full pound lighter than a 24" .338 barrel.

I have not shot the .308 barrel kit yet. With the 17" barrel, you do have a very compact folded system.
 

TheGerman

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Thanks for the tip. I am all over that 26" 338LM as soon as I sell my Surgeon.

Would be interested in people's opinions on which conversion kit they would add to it and why. Currently I am shooting 6.5 Creedmoor from the Surgeon, however, it occurred to me that the 6.5 really benefits from barrel length where as the 308 seems to be able to get away with a shorter barrel. In the case of the MRAD, it looks like Barrett has had some great results with the 17" 308, which is really impressive and a bit of a shock to me.

Anyhow, my thinking was that a 308/338 setup would really give me 2 completely different rifles, with a compact "lightweight" 308 good to 1100/1200 yards and then the big daddy for everything else. Seems perhaps more reasonable than a 300WM/338LM setup, or a 6.5/338LM setup. Would love to hear other people's setups and opinions though. I still have a bit of this thread to read as well, so I apologize if it has already been covered.
I have the 22" 308WIN, 24" 6.5CM and 26" 338LM.

I got out of 300WM because there was little point to it with a 338 around.

I primarily shoot the 6.5 because I have semi autos in 308 and 6.5 can still get out to 338 distances where you don't need the energy on target. Plus its quite a bit cheaper per round obviously. I keep the 308 kit around because why not; it has fantastic barrel life, the caliber isn't going away and I have a metric ton of stuff to reload for it.

Only problem I see in your idea is that 17" 308 barrel is going to really need to get pushed hard to get your velocities to get to 1100.
 
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Delta23

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I have the 22" 308WIN, 24" 6.5CM and 26" 338LM.

I got out of 300WM because there was little point to it with a 338 around.

I primarily shoot the 6.5 because I have semi autos in 308 and 6.5 can still get out to 338 distances where you don't need the energy on target. Plus its quite a bit cheaper per round obviously. I keep the 308 kit around because why not; it has fantastic barrel life, the caliber isn't going away and I have a metric ton of stuff to reload for it.

Only problem I see in your idea is that 17" 308 barrel is going to really need to get pushed hard to get your velocities to get to 1100.

Thanks guys, appreciate your opinions.

Yeah, the idea of a 17" barrel was REALLY uncomfortable to me considering I used to run 308 at 26", currently run 6.5CM at 26", and was planning on running 338LM at 30". I was crunching some data on JBM and I was a bit surprised to see that even if I run the velocity down to 2400 using a 175gr SMK with corrected BC, which is slower than I have ever run, it still seems to go transonic between 1100 and 1200. I hope I didn't fudge the data anywhere.

I have been really happy with 6.5CM also. If I go that route I will likely look at the longest option they have, which I believe would be the 24". Maybe I will end up with all three one day like you did. I might just be appreciating the novelty of such a "light" and compact 308 option. I guess I have run too many 26" MTU barrels and I'm getting soft. Might have to suck that up.
 

TheGerman

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You may want to re run that 308 data. On JBM with a 100 yard zero, 175g SMK @ 2400fps has you at 1361fps (Mach 1.2) at 700 yards and 1166 fps (Mach 1.04) at 900 yards. At 2600 fps, you start the barrier (Mach 1.2) at 800 and hit it at almost exactly 1k.
 
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