Any truth to this? I’ve heard people say that it is better to run a muzzle device than bare. If that is the case then maybe the Area 419 isn’t the best solution??Curious why flash hider instead of brake? Seems the brake would act as kind of an extra blast baffle, if nothing else.
That's a good point on the warranty, and also whether or not the Ultra suppressors are designed to work with the 2 port system of their CB break or if it doesn't matter for the flow of gasses.^^^ The self timing feature is the huge plus and the 419 brake works better than the TB brake. As for warranty voiding IDK...
Good choice - You will be happy!This is a timely thread for me, as I placed an order for my first Area 419 setup just a few hours ago. The self-timing functionality holds a lot of appeal for me, as does the ease of removing the Hellfire brake for cleaning (this setup will be going on a .223 AI prairie dog gun).
I'm looking forward to playing with it, as it seems to be a very well thought-out design.
Easy to install (no timing), has flats in case I do something stupid and get the can stuck and I might still be bitter about the ‘94 AWB where the .gov said I couldn’t have flash hiders. I also don’t shoot any high recoiling cartridges. With current high strength metals, I’m not concerned about erosion. If I do happpen to wear out a silencer, I’m sure TBAC (or any reputable brand) would take care of me. However, I have yet to hear of someone wearing out a silencer.Curious why flash hider instead of brake? Seems the brake would act as kind of an extra blast baffle, if nothing else.
All decent points. I will definitely keep that in mind if I need more muzzle devices.Easy to install (no timing), has flats in case I do something stupid and get the can stuck and I might still be bitter about the ‘94 AWB where the .gov said I couldn’t have flash hiders. I also don’t shoot any high recoiling cartridges. With current high strength metals, I’m not concerned about erosion. If I do happpen to wear out a silencer, I’m sure TBAC (or any reputable brand) would take care of me. However, I have yet to hear of someone wearing out a silencer.
I’m waiting on TBAC to ship them, already ordered and paid.I think I will try one out for the truck gun - maybe also get a thread protector for the fh since it won't be wearing a can most the time. Does the TB fh add any additional length compared to the TB brake? It looks like it may add just a bit due to the flats but I'm basing that off photos.
ETA: The TB 5/8x24 .30 fh shows to be oos at Hanson Brothers and also TBAC. HB, any idea when you guys will get some in?
Just as point to OP: I have a TBAC Ultra 9 that swaps between 4 rifles. If you plan on removing brake frequently, make ABSOLUTELY sure that you mount your CB brake properly with Red loctite (271 300 deg stuff or 272 which is slightly higher temp at 450deg) before you start shooting and testing it out.
I tried spinning my can off a bit too early and mounted CB brake with blue loctite (wrong product) and it ended up spinning off brake while can still mounted.
I tried securing again with Rocksett but it still torqued off brake (takes forever to cure). Long story short, I had to remove can/brake, red loctite 271, wait overnight, then can spun off correctly with brake still on rifle. Then I had to retime the brake and remount correctly (which is a bit of a pain with red loctite).
So do it right the first time with all rifles that will have a CB Brake and you shouldn't have issues. If you cut corners (like I did) it will likely bite you when it is least convenient. The red stuff is TOUGH.
Should have followed instructions better (and had better self control over my enthusiasm to start shooting can).
I do the same, hand tight plus a smidge. But I pulled a rookie mistake and tried pulling off can while it was warmish and holding power of blue gave way. It's a fairly new can (about a month or so) and has about 300 rounds through it.I have used Loctite 242 blue and never had a problem with my breaks coming off with the suppressor? How hard are you torquing your suppressor when you twist it on? I'm just tightening had tight, basically spin it until I meet resistance and give it a little extra oomph at the end but nothing major.
And I just noticed my "blue loctite" isn't actually Loctite brand... It's Permatex. That could be why it failed. Or it was too old.I do the same, hand tight plus a smidge. But I pulled a rookie mistake and tried pulling off can while it was warmish and holding power of blue gave way. It's a fairly new can (about a month or so) and has about 300 rounds through it.
My guess is that the threads of the brake and/or suppressor were a bit dirty with carbon from the 6.5 bolt gun, and, when mounting to the 224V semiauto, it locked up just a bit too tight. Couple that with a bit of heat (15-20 rounds over 5-10 minutes) and it came loose when I tried removing while it was warm to touch (maybe 90-100 deg?). Same thing happened early on with my 223 but I let cool again and it came off normally.
Also possible that I had undertorqued the CB brake when I remounted it a few weeks ago to add the blue loctite.
My other three guns have held well so far with blue BUT I've let them cool 100% before attempting to remove can. It's more a peace of mind issue than anything else. The can seems to cool much much faster than barrel and brake, so it's easy to get fooled that the system has cooled.
I do also but I think it may have been too little on this barrel trying to keep it in time. I always find myself either just past or just before top dead flat with peel washers. But it's all good now and OP will have good success with TBAC in either case. Awesome products and amazing CS team!Since the TBAC breaks require shims I use them to get the break to a place where I have to then torque with fairly considerable effort to get them in the proper position (timed) so maybe that is the difference?
I also run the 419 Hellfire and love it too! I am getting an Impact action and am going to have a few different barrels and am looking at ideas of how to move brakes and cans to different barrels without costing a lot and it seems like buying a few 419 barrel adaptors and just leave them on the different barrels and then buy the Ultra 7 adaptor is the way to go because it is a pain in the ass to time Ultra 7 brakes.To set my brakes I hit the threads on the barrel and muzzle brake with brake cleaner. Once it evaporates I put blue loctite on several threads and then screw on the device. I leave it so it can set... never head an issue with it breaking free.
I use the area 419 system and absolutely love it. I put on the muzzle device if I don't want to run a can or if I go out of state. It is also nice because it gives me access to the barrel crown so I can keep the carbon down.
Ordered and received the following Mon IIRC - appreciate the quick shipping.Looks like I’ll have them Friday evening.
I just add a drop of thread locker and torque to 30lbs. It’s extremely rare that I shoot without a silencer attached so I’m not concerned about the flash pattern.Ordered and received the following Mon IIRC - appreciate the quick shipping.
Just now about to install- got a stupid question.....directions say fh may be installed untimed or timed so that flash pattern is minimized to shooter’s view. Is it much of an issue or do most just run it untimed since that seems to be one advantage of the fh?
Also I’m lefty but assuming that would have no bearing upon timing to minimize flash to shooters view (i.e. objective is to minimize flash at 12:00 position so indifferent to righty or lefty shooter)....?