TB Ultra Mount Options

Feb 14, 2017
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Statesville, NC
#1
Currently in jail, so trying to figure out how to run Ultra 7 when I receive.
What's consensus on this, Area 419 system or TB brake? If I plan to use on gas 308 and bolt 6.5, do you go TB Flash Hider model for 308?
 
Dec 3, 2017
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#2
I’ve been wondering this as well. I’m likely to just to go with TB but haven’t had the opertunity to test options out.
 

southerngolfer

HACHIE CHACHIE DUNKIRINI
Feb 17, 2017
694
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SW, Missouri
#4
I sold all my CB and switched over to the area 419 adaptors and HF brake. I like the ease of switching from brake to suppressor. I did a 100 yard comparison, very minimal shift
 
Feb 9, 2017
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NE Texas
#8
I’m wondering if a TB fh would be the better option than their brake on my 16” barreled AR truck gun - I’m not gonna leave a can on it since it resides in the ranch truck but it’d be nice to spin an Ultra on there when one is handy. So my question - is the TB fh significantly quieter than the brake when unsupressed and needing to take a quick shot at a critter with no hearing pro?
 
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Lmatt

Private
May 16, 2017
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9
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Idaho
#10
Curious why flash hider instead of brake? Seems the brake would act as kind of an extra blast baffle, if nothing else.
Any truth to this? I’ve heard people say that it is better to run a muzzle device than bare. If that is the case then maybe the Area 419 isn’t the best solution??
 

Strykervet

Resident Phoenix Eye and Dim Mak Instructor
Jun 5, 2011
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Pierce County, WA
#11
I'll just parrot what Zak told me:

The use of the brake or flash hider mount is to provide a beveled surface the suppressor threads on to and rests against. Since threaded barrels and their shoulders can vary, the uniformity of the mounts make it so that the can mounts perfectly each time. It makes a lot of sense, especially if you make mounts that actually work.

Is the Area 419 a cosmetic choice? Are they cheaper? Because I don't get why you wouldn't just use the TBAC mounts. I have several, all brakes, and they work fine.

If I was gonna use another brake, I'd at least call TBAC and ensure that it won't void the warranty.
 
Likes: Max
Jul 10, 2010
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Southeast LA
#12
The Hellfire adapter that goes inside the suppressor has a “sacrificial baffle” similar in function to mounting the can over a brake. The Omega adapter does not. Look at their site for pics.
 

wjm308

Send it!
Nov 30, 2012
1,992
764
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Black Forest, CO
#13
Am I missing something here? The Area 419 TBAC adapter is a single port design; however, the TBAC design is a dual port design. Oh wait a second, now I understand, I'm going to keep my above sentence in case anyone is initially confused because I just realized the Hellfire TBAC adapter actually threads onto the Hellfire adaptor and torques into the TBAC so you can quickly swap between the full size Hellfire break or the TBAC suppressor - that is a great design, kudos to Jon once again for being innovative! The question the OP asked is which is better, good question, I would assume the Hellfire break would be better because it is a 3 port design whereas the TBAC break is only a 2 port design, but can you discern an actual difference between the two??? Now you have me curious to try both...

One other thing, the Hellfire system is "self timing" and I can tell you it is a pain to time the TBAC breaks correctly with spacers, so that right there is a definite advantage.
 

wjm308

Send it!
Nov 30, 2012
1,992
764
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Black Forest, CO
#15
^^^ The self timing feature is the huge plus and the 419 brake works better than the TB brake. As for warranty voiding IDK...
That's a good point on the warranty, and also whether or not the Ultra suppressors are designed to work with the 2 port system of their CB break or if it doesn't matter for the flow of gasses.
 
Feb 14, 2017
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Statesville, NC
#16
I decided to just go TB route. First time in the suppression game and trying to maintain accuracy..so just going with what TB recommends. 419 sounds like it’ll be cheaper in the end but with only using on 2 rifles it doesn’t make that much difference.
 

BurnOut

DDOJSIOC
Nov 24, 2013
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Dallas
#18
This is a timely thread for me, as I placed an order for my first Area 419 setup just a few hours ago. The self-timing functionality holds a lot of appeal for me, as does the ease of removing the Hellfire brake for cleaning (this setup will be going on a .223 AI prairie dog gun).

I'm looking forward to playing with it, as it seems to be a very well thought-out design.
 
Likes: Jeffd
Jul 10, 2010
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Southeast LA
#19
I’m only using the 419 system so I can swap around my 2 TBAC cans with my Omega. I don’t run brakes. It’s perfect for that. If not for the Omega, I’d run TBAC flash hiders on everything. Not having to time the FHs appeals to me and it’s quieter than a Brake
 
Likes: Lmatt

Jeffd

Online Training Member
Feb 3, 2011
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#20
This is a timely thread for me, as I placed an order for my first Area 419 setup just a few hours ago. The self-timing functionality holds a lot of appeal for me, as does the ease of removing the Hellfire brake for cleaning (this setup will be going on a .223 AI prairie dog gun).

I'm looking forward to playing with it, as it seems to be a very well thought-out design.
Good choice - You will be happy!
 
#21
Curious why flash hider instead of brake? Seems the brake would act as kind of an extra blast baffle, if nothing else.
Easy to install (no timing), has flats in case I do something stupid and get the can stuck and I might still be bitter about the ‘94 AWB where the .gov said I couldn’t have flash hiders. I also don’t shoot any high recoiling cartridges. With current high strength metals, I’m not concerned about erosion. If I do happpen to wear out a silencer, I’m sure TBAC (or any reputable brand) would take care of me. However, I have yet to hear of someone wearing out a silencer.
 
Jun 24, 2009
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Hermiston, OR
#22
Easy to install (no timing), has flats in case I do something stupid and get the can stuck and I might still be bitter about the ‘94 AWB where the .gov said I couldn’t have flash hiders. I also don’t shoot any high recoiling cartridges. With current high strength metals, I’m not concerned about erosion. If I do happpen to wear out a silencer, I’m sure TBAC (or any reputable brand) would take care of me. However, I have yet to hear of someone wearing out a silencer.
All decent points. I will definitely keep that in mind if I need more muzzle devices.
 
Feb 9, 2017
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NE Texas
#23
I think I will try one out for the truck gun - maybe also get a thread protector for the fh since it won't be wearing a can most the time. Does the TB fh add any additional length compared to the TB brake? It looks like it may add just a bit due to the flats but I'm basing that off photos.

ETA: The TB 5/8x24 .30 fh shows to be oos at Hanson Brothers and also TBAC. HB, any idea when you guys will get some in?
 
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#24
I think I will try one out for the truck gun - maybe also get a thread protector for the fh since it won't be wearing a can most the time. Does the TB fh add any additional length compared to the TB brake? It looks like it may add just a bit due to the flats but I'm basing that off photos.

ETA: The TB 5/8x24 .30 fh shows to be oos at Hanson Brothers and also TBAC. HB, any idea when you guys will get some in?
I’m waiting on TBAC to ship them, already ordered and paid.
 

Subwrx300

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 15, 2014
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252
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Cedar Springs, MI
#26
Just as point to OP: I have a TBAC Ultra 9 that swaps between 4 rifles. If you plan on removing brake frequently, make ABSOLUTELY sure that you mount your CB brake properly with Red loctite (271 300 deg stuff or 272 which is slightly higher temp at 450deg) before you start shooting and testing it out.

I tried spinning my can off a bit too early and mounted CB brake with blue loctite (wrong product) and it ended up spinning off brake while can still mounted.

I tried securing again with Rocksett but it still torqued off brake (takes forever to cure). Long story short, I had to remove can/brake, red loctite 271, wait overnight, then can spun off correctly with brake still on rifle. Then I had to retime the brake and remount correctly (which is a bit of a pain with red loctite).

So do it right the first time with all rifles that will have a CB Brake and you shouldn't have issues. If you cut corners (like I did) it will likely bite you when it is least convenient. The red stuff is TOUGH.

Should have followed instructions better (and had better self control over my enthusiasm to start shooting can).
 
Nov 30, 2012
1,992
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Black Forest, CO
#27
Just as point to OP: I have a TBAC Ultra 9 that swaps between 4 rifles. If you plan on removing brake frequently, make ABSOLUTELY sure that you mount your CB brake properly with Red loctite (271 300 deg stuff or 272 which is slightly higher temp at 450deg) before you start shooting and testing it out.

I tried spinning my can off a bit too early and mounted CB brake with blue loctite (wrong product) and it ended up spinning off brake while can still mounted.

I tried securing again with Rocksett but it still torqued off brake (takes forever to cure). Long story short, I had to remove can/brake, red loctite 271, wait overnight, then can spun off correctly with brake still on rifle. Then I had to retime the brake and remount correctly (which is a bit of a pain with red loctite).

So do it right the first time with all rifles that will have a CB Brake and you shouldn't have issues. If you cut corners (like I did) it will likely bite you when it is least convenient. The red stuff is TOUGH.

Should have followed instructions better (and had better self control over my enthusiasm to start shooting can).

I have used Loctite 242 blue and never had a problem with my breaks coming off with the suppressor? How hard are you torquing your suppressor when you twist it on? I'm just tightening hand tight, basically spin it until I meet resistance and give it a little extra oomph at the end but nothing major.
 
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Subwrx300

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 15, 2014
606
252
63
Cedar Springs, MI
#28
I have used Loctite 242 blue and never had a problem with my breaks coming off with the suppressor? How hard are you torquing your suppressor when you twist it on? I'm just tightening had tight, basically spin it until I meet resistance and give it a little extra oomph at the end but nothing major.
I do the same, hand tight plus a smidge. But I pulled a rookie mistake and tried pulling off can while it was warmish and holding power of blue gave way. It's a fairly new can (about a month or so) and has about 300 rounds through it.

My guess is that the threads of the brake and/or suppressor were a bit dirty with carbon from the 6.5 bolt gun, and, when mounting to the 224V semiauto, it locked up just a bit too tight. Couple that with a bit of heat (15-20 rounds over 5-10 minutes) and it came loose when I tried removing while it was warm to touch (maybe 90-100 deg?). Same thing happened early on with my 223 but I let cool again and it came off normally.

Also possible that I had undertorqued the CB brake when I remounted it a few weeks ago to add the blue loctite.

My other three guns have held well so far with blue BUT I've let them cool 100% before attempting to remove can. It's more a peace of mind issue than anything else. The can seems to cool much much faster than barrel and brake, so it's easy to get fooled that the system has cooled.
 

Subwrx300

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 15, 2014
606
252
63
Cedar Springs, MI
#29
I do the same, hand tight plus a smidge. But I pulled a rookie mistake and tried pulling off can while it was warmish and holding power of blue gave way. It's a fairly new can (about a month or so) and has about 300 rounds through it.

My guess is that the threads of the brake and/or suppressor were a bit dirty with carbon from the 6.5 bolt gun, and, when mounting to the 224V semiauto, it locked up just a bit too tight. Couple that with a bit of heat (15-20 rounds over 5-10 minutes) and it came loose when I tried removing while it was warm to touch (maybe 90-100 deg?). Same thing happened early on with my 223 but I let cool again and it came off normally.

Also possible that I had undertorqued the CB brake when I remounted it a few weeks ago to add the blue loctite.

My other three guns have held well so far with blue BUT I've let them cool 100% before attempting to remove can. It's more a peace of mind issue than anything else. The can seems to cool much much faster than barrel and brake, so it's easy to get fooled that the system has cooled.
And I just noticed my "blue loctite" isn't actually Loctite brand... It's Permatex. That could be why it failed. Or it was too old.

Now I just know to buy the name brand product and maybe it would have worked better but who knows.

Anyway, back to the OPs post. Don't want to detail the thread...pun intended.

20181010_152016.jpg
 

Subwrx300

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 15, 2014
606
252
63
Cedar Springs, MI
#31
Since the TBAC breaks require shims I use them to get the break to a place where I have to then torque with fairly considerable effort to get them in the proper position (timed) so maybe that is the difference?
I do also but I think it may have been too little on this barrel trying to keep it in time. I always find myself either just past or just before top dead flat with peel washers. But it's all good now and OP will have good success with TBAC in either case. Awesome products and amazing CS team!
 
Likes: wjm308
Feb 14, 2017
158
6
18
Haubstadt, Indiana
#33
I have an Ultra 7 being form 3’d to my FFL now. Coincidentally, I already had purchased an Area 419 Hellfire for my new 6CM before I ever even thought about a suppressor. So I am going with that system just out of happenstance. I do think it will be the best system though, as I can get a second brake and quickly swap the Ultra 7 between my 6&6.5, while also being able to quickly swap to an effective 3 port brake if I so desire. The flexibility of the Hellfire to adapt to virtually any suppressor really seems to be second to none, but I won’t know how well it really works for likely 6-8 months...thanks ATF! Lol!
 
Likes: wjm308
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