Suppressor Advice

Dec 24, 2013
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#1
All,

I want to get a suppressor for my son's 7mm-08, but I would like it to be capable of handling larger magnum calibers as well. I hear good things about the Gemtech line but really want to hear from you experts on what you think would work well. We won't be doing a lot of long range stuff, just deer hunting and some target practice. My son shot a .308 a couple of weeks ago that was suppressed and he fell in love with it. I have talked to a gunsmith that can thread his Tikka T3x, now I just need to get my order in for the right suppressor and wait. Many thanks for your replies.

Dan
 
Feb 13, 2017
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Camano Island, Washington
#4
I don't (unfortunately) own any of their products, but the guys at Thunderbeast (TBAC) are stand up people and that would be the next centerfire/long gun can I would buy. They're honest, have lots of integrity and from all the reviews (personal and professional) make a really nice products. Perhaps, give them a call to discuss your needs/wants. I understand the principals are eager to talk to new (and existing) customers alike. Keep in mind that they have been/are at the SHOT show in Vegas this week, so maybe mid to later next week might be a better time to call them.

As far as breaking the bank, your suppressor purchase will be something you will likely hang on to for a long time. With the transfer (from one civilian/non dealer to another), it's a long and expensive process. To me, it's more important to buy the highest quality product that you can the first time around, because you will own it for a long, long time. The alternative is to unload something that you don't like for anywhere between a 40% and 60% loss. Pretty easy decision in my mind.
 
Likes: dkhnt
Sep 15, 2004
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PNW
#7
I have a YHM that is rated for full auto. It's heavy at 28oz, but does help with recoil and is just generally nicer to shoot. If I were to do it over I may look at a direct thread titanium can but all I do is shoot 308. When attached it shoots a repeatable 2 inches low at 100yds. Keep that in mind depending on what you are looking at. They are pretty reasonable in cost also. It was my first suppressor, but I would probably be looking at a TBAC if I were to do it over again.
 

BOLTRIPPER

Not Carlos Danger
Sep 25, 2001
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Dallas Texas USA
#8
i own at least Five different manufactures suppressors ......consider a direct thread as something you will need to check and make certain it is tight every time you go thru a mag change or after a string of usage or moving about thru any real estate that might bump the can...they tend to work loose when you do not baby the firearm w/ suppressor.
Thus i really really favor multiple attach lash-ups the lock the can to the brake.

no baffle strikes ....savvy?
 
Jul 10, 2010
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Southeast LA
#9
A solid no frills 30. Cal suppressor for hunting and occasion shooting would be the SiCo Harvester. I have an Omega and father in law has a Harvester. Especially for a Bolt gun non hard use can at its price point. My next can will be a TBAC Ultra 7 and I have 3 TBAC rimfire cans. TBAC is the cream of the crop. But, may be more than you want/need.
 

TanktheFrank

UP AND COMING
Apr 1, 2017
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San Marcos , Tx
#10
I agree with most of the other guys. 30 cal, light, durable. The silencerco harvester is really nice, and for your purposes it could be a real winner. I was hung up on that and the omega 300. The omega only won out because it will spend 50% of its life on an AR. Either way, go with a reputable brand, and go with the one you feel comfortable dropping that kind of coin on.
 
Dec 24, 2013
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#11
Boltripper,

I am brand new at this stuff and don't want to make a mistake. This suppressor will be going on my son's gun and I probably cannot rely on him to ensure that the can is always tight and I think that is what you were talking about with regard to a direct thread. My son's Tikka has no muzzle brake so I am confused what my options are. What type of attachments should I be looking for to avoid any issues the can coming loose as a result of a direct thread? Can you give me specific attachments that will fit a Tikka and tell me how the gun should be threaded so I can tell my gunsmith (though he likely already knows what to do). Thanks!
 

TanktheFrank

UP AND COMING
Apr 1, 2017
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San Marcos , Tx
#12
So
Boltripper,

I am brand new at this stuff and don't want to make a mistake. This suppressor will be going on my son's gun and I probably cannot rely on him to ensure that the can is always tight and I think that is what you were talking about with regard to a direct thread. My son's Tikka has no muzzle brake so I am confused what my options are. What type of attachments should I be looking for to avoid any issues the can coming loose as a result of a direct thread? Can you give me specific attachments that will fit a Tikka and tell me how the gun should be threaded so I can tell my gunsmith (though he likely already knows what to do). Thanks!
So, the there are two general ways to mount a suppressor to your firearm. 1. Direct thread, which is what your smith can do for you and 2. Use a muzzle device, usually brand specific, that allows you to attach the suppressor to the muzzle device directly, rather than to the barrel directly. With that in mind, you'll need your barrel threaded either way. Both methods have their own merit, but for your purposes I see no reason to not use a direct thread. The "can" will stay threaded tightly and wont just rattle or work its way off unless you're doing heavy strings of fire. In the case of a hunter, such a scenario is highly unlikely. Most likely, the barrel will be threaded 1/2x28 or 5/8x24. There are a many others out there, but I haven't seen many tikkas threaded in an oddball pattern. Most of the cans suggested above come with options for either pitch, in a direct thread fashion. Harvester, hybrid, gemtech tracker. So a good direct thread can on a professionallycut barrel will yeild good results. As for your son not threading it on right, thats a teachable moment. Haha, I'd make sure he knew how to put it on right because once you get that can, you're damn near married to it.
 

TanktheFrank

UP AND COMING
Apr 1, 2017
237
141
43
San Marcos , Tx
#13
i own at least Five different manufactures suppressors ......consider a direct thread as something you will need to check and make certain it is tight every time you go thru a mag change or after a string of usage or moving about thru any real estate that might bump the can...they tend to work loose when you do not baby the firearm w/ suppressor.
Thus i really really favor multiple attach lash-ups the lock the can to the brake.

no baffle strikes ....savvy?
I apologize for answering a question directed at you, just had the free time and some knowledge to pass along.
 
Jul 10, 2010
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Southeast LA
#14
The thread size may be effected by the barrel size I.e. a sporter weight barrel in .30cal only has so much metal to cut for threads. Your smith can help you there.
I agree that direct thread is the cheapest (arguably easiest) option.
Now is a great time to buy a can, as prices are very good. Several dealers here have great deals going and will walk you through the initial process of transferring to your local SOT. I have bought 4 of 5 from Hide members/dealers.
 
Dec 24, 2013
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#15
How do I find out who the Hide member dealers are? Maybe I am missing something...are they listed in a vendors section or are they regular members that sell suppressors?
 
Feb 27, 2014
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#16
IMHO, you want a brake mounted suppressor. I have 2 direct thread cans, and 5 or 6 brake attach models. Most of them are Thunderbeast models.
It's much easier to thread a can onto the larger diameter muzzle break threads, almost no chance of cross threading. Additionally, you can buy brakes for $125ea that are thread for barrels 1/2-28 (AR), 5/8-24 (many 243-6.5 308, etc), and M18-1.5 (metric). All these brakes have the same outside thread pitch that the suppressor shoulders onto - allowing you to move your expensive can easily across rifles.

The brake is Loctited (or Rocksett) to the barrel. The can is screwed hand tight, This is probably preferred over loctiting a direct thread the the barrel.
 
Last edited:
Jan 26, 2014
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Colorado
#18
Personally, I wouldn't even consider buying a suppressor other than TBAC. As has been mentioned, the amount of pain and hassle you are signing up for with an NFA regulated item is significant. As a result, I want the highest quality, best engineered product I can buy so that it lasts a long time and I can avoid any BS with my can in the future. I say invest more at the beginning to save yourself pain later.
 
Likes: charles63

mijp5

Gunny Sergeant
May 7, 2009
4,762
1,928
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#19
How do I find out who the Hide member dealers are? Maybe I am missing something...are they listed in a vendors section or are they regular members that sell suppressors?
Look through the suppressors forum, and look for guys who are advertising sales and such. I.e. 317millhand
 
Mar 18, 2008
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#20
Dec 22, 2017
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#21
I have several Tikkas threaded. Yes the T3 lite barrels are a bit small for 5/8x24 but a simply $22 bushing from Precision armament cures that with their 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 bushing. So I have my smith thread then all for 1/2x28 and step them up from there. I have 3 suppressors waiting on paperwork (2 TBAC ultra 7s, and one silencerco OMEGA) but for now I am just using on OMEGA direct thread 5/8x24” to fit on all my rifles. $125 per rifle for a CB brake adds up quick when you want to use it on multiple rifles rather than direct thread.
 

pineoak

Assistant Minion
Feb 15, 2017
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Raleigh, NC
#23
+1 on getting a .30 cal can as it makes it the most flexible in the longest run; it might be a bit louder, but you won't be worrying about caliber issues

TBAC Ultra 7 in .30 is a super flexible lightweight choice and what I recommend for a middle of the road/neutral non specialized can for a BOLT gun (not for heavy semi use)

if you want maximum suppression, go 9" with it being caliber specific

I'd recommend the CB mounts over DT
 
Nov 10, 2013
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#24
The Griffin (Recce 7 for me) suppressors are really pretty rugged. I haven't had any problems with mine and think it's a pretty good choice. I also have a Rugged (Surge) can and think it's pretty solid. I definitely think TBAC is phenomenal, but they are on the higher side of the market and with the materials wouldn't be the most rugged option if you or someone else that would be using it might be prone to mishaps. Dead Air is another good choice. I only have a rimfire can from them, but it's built well. I would basically look at materials and stay away from anything with aluminum, but other than that, stainless or titanium, maybe with stellite or inconel baffles and you're good to go. Lots of good options and reputable companies that deserve your business.

Direct thread will work fine for you and save a couple of bucks as well. I have used the nickel antisieze and had no issues with cans coming loose when I didn't want them to or coming loose when I did.
 
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