Ruger Precision Rimfire

zenbike

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I'd polish the running surface on the bottom of the bolt, and the sharp edges on the front lower edge of the bolt, by the extractor.
 

zenbike

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Just as an FYI, since I had issues understanding what exactly was being done when tape bedding the RPRR.

This is an Elfster Rifles & Reloading video about the RPRR tape bedding process:


@elfster1234
 
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DWCustom

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Here where I am at so far with filing the bolt. I do have a question on how far y'all brought it down. I have filed what I would consider a lot off the bolt. It still chambers a round fine no issues but I do still get nicks on my bullets.

I'm using the ruger 15 round mag, I haven't ordered any other mags yet.
 

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whoreable

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Got a RPR for a 22can, tried to buy an hk416 in 22lr but yah. Anyways its super quiet supressed with CCI subs, like retarded quiet. Like firing pin only quiet. Looking forward to slaying squirrels in my neighborhood from inside the house this summer.
 
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zenbike

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Here where I am at so far with filing the bolt. I do have a question on how far y'all brought it down. I have filed what I would consider a lot off the bolt. It still chambers a round fine no issues but I do still get nicks on my bullets.

I'm using the ruger 15 round mag, I haven't ordered any other mags yet.

The Ruger 15 & 25 round mags in particular are prone to tilting forward, which leaves the mag follwoer and thus the nose of the round, out of alignment with the bore. That leaves the gouge on the bottom of the round.

The line on top is from the bottom of the bolt as it pushes the previous round into the bore. As far as how far to take polishing the bolt, the idea is to make it as smooth as possible, without removing much material. I'd round over just the front edge by the extractor, just enought to take the sharp edge off, then hit it with a jeweller's rouge along the whole bottom of the bolt.

Disassembling the bolt might be helpful before polishing.

This is an Anarchy outdoors video about installing their swept back bolt handles (great feel on the swept back bolt handles and the dragon scale knob, by the way). The first part of the video shows the bolt disassembly.

 

DWCustom

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thank you!! I will polish it out this evening. just ordered the butler creek hotlips mag and a bunch of higher end ammo to try through the gun.
 
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DWCustom

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Got it polished this evening. No marks on next round in mags. Woohoo. Lol.

Didn't see any dents from bullets engaging the chamber bottom but that can change due to the factory mags being sloppy. Butler creek mag should be in next week.

Will try to go shoot this weekend to see of polishing the bolt had any effect of accuracy.
 

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zenbike

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Got it polished this evening. No marks on next round in mags. Woohoo. Lol.

Didn't see any dents from bullets engaging the chamber bottom but that can change due to the factory mags being sloppy. Butler creek mag should be in next week.

Will try to go shoot this weekend to see of polishing the bolt had any effect of accuracy.
I don't have feeding issues or marks with my RPRR, but I don't use the 15 & 25 round mags. I don't like the 10 round BX-1 mags being totally flush, so I bought some of the Double Kross BX ROtary Mag doublers. This has the dual advantage of the lower mag giving a spot to grip when changing mags, and putting your second mag already in hand when needed.

In addition, they fit MUCH tighter in the magwell on at least my RPRR.


They use the internals from your existing BX-1 mags, this is a shell mod, not a complete mag.

 
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DWCustom

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This is with the cci stingers I believe on the box they are 1640. I don't have a chronograph so I don't know what they are doing in mine.

First grouping with these was around 1.5” @ 50 yards. This one is a little over 3/4” and is 15 shots @ 40 yards. I am hoping the more I shoot it the better it will get. The only thing thing I have changed since previous shooting was polishing the bottom of the bolt. I am very impatiently waiting for the arrival of the mag and new ammo.

This is kind of my first step in shooting precision rifles. I have always been a shotgun guy. I know there are much more precise 22lr rifles out there but this one will help open the door especially since the kiddos love shooting it. First time shooting prone as well.
 

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zenbike

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Not bad for supersonic ammo. You already said you had ammunition options on the way, so I won't belabor the point, but ammunition that transitions from supersonic to subsonic during flight has a relatively huge negative affect on your accuracy.

In general, try to use something at around 1000-1100 fps,, and your consistency will improve a fair bit.
 

TheMightyGorilla

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You know I love my RPR. You know every trip to the range I'm shooting golf balls at ~220 yards. However I recently had a bit of a bummer.

Its now too cold and windy to hit the range. Before I stopped going, I purchased a used Anschutz 64 MS for my wife. ($600) I threw the extra scope we had on with rings that were too high. My wife was using cheap federal ammo. Her first time shooting it, 100 yards, she was getting better groupings than me! With Eley ammo, she out shot me! I was amazed that this stock used 22lr shot so much better than my RPR, even with just ok ammo and a poor scope.

With that, I'm going to just leave my RPR as is, and maybe get something else. I'm not going to change the barrel. I love it, but I'm not going to chase the dragon. Now I need to get my wife a good scope, proper rings, and then I'll never hear teh end of her giggling. Spring egg shoots are just around the corner, and I can already hear her "This isn't that hard at all!" *sigh*
 

Invicta

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How did you polish the bottom of the bolt? My bolt sticks and I want to try and improve the bolt flow?
 

DWCustom

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How did you polish the bottom of the bolt? My bolt sticks and I want to try and improve the bolt flow?

At first used a fine file and filed some of the tang on the bottom of the bolt that grabs the next round. I put a little taper on it from the round hole in the bolt to the bolt face. Then used a buffer with rouge to polish the bolt. You will need to disassemble the bolt first.
 
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Booner1334

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How did you polish the bottom of the bolt? My bolt sticks and I want to try and improve the bolt flow?
I glued some 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper to a popsicle stick and lightly rounded the sharp edges of the bolt. I didn't want to remove much metal, only to slightly round the edges. There wasn't any burrs in the metal, but the edges were very sharp and all I did was to roll the edge. I then put some bore paste on the entire bolt and ran the action several hundred times to smooth things out. Think of what I did as a mild "bore lapping" of the bolt to the action. Then I cleaned the bolt and action out as well as possible and now it's very smooth.
 
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DWCustom

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Did a simple contact check this evening on the barrel to receiver block. I have two strips of aluminum tape on top one of each side and one strip on the front contact screw. Here's what I got on the contact. Not as good as I was hoping for. Only making good contact on one side and only for a small area.

Anyone else run into this. Is it even fixable??!!
 

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Rockrat125

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So, has anyone used a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire II 4x12-40mm with bdc and preset 75m parallax? Found it for $100 at midwayusa. Is there anything else out there for this price or $150 that will compare?
 

Kisssofdeath

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This is with the cci stingers I believe on the box they are 1640. I don't have a chronograph so I don't know what they are doing in mine.

First grouping with these was around 1.5” @ 50 yards. This one is a little over 3/4” and is 15 shots @ 40 yards. I am hoping the more I shoot it the better it will get. The only thing thing I have changed since previous shooting was polishing the bottom of the bolt. I am very impatiently waiting for the arrival of the mag and new ammo.

This is kind of my first step in shooting precision rifles. I have always been a shotgun guy. I know there are much more precise 22lr rifles out there but this one will help open the door especially since the kiddos love shooting it. First time shooting prone as well.
Call me a pushover but seeing those kids shoot and having fun just brought a smile to my face. So much so I had to take 20 seconds to tell about it.
 

Booner1334

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Did a simple contact check this evening on the barrel to receiver block. I have two strips of aluminum tape on top one of each side and one strip on the front contact screw. Here's what I got on the contact. Not as good as I was hoping for. Only making good contact on one side and only for a small area.

Anyone else run into this. Is it even fixable??!!
I assume you used aluminum tape; two layers on the rear of the action but only one layer on the front. Why did you not use two layers on the front? You may have introduce a bit of stress by not keeping them even. Also, how tight was the action in the chassis? 35 inch pounds maximum or something less? And what is the black color on the tape; in-letter's black or a sharpie to show where the barrel was contacting the action?

In your left picture, you have tape on the lips of part #54; the Magazine Latch Assembly. Part #54 has caused a lot of problems for some. This part serves two functions at least; it secures the rear of the magazine into the magazine well, and it also secures the ejector, (it may serve a third function, that of supplying some bedding to the action into the chassis). I have read accounts where part #54 came from the factory so loose that it rattled in the action and provided poor support to the magazine when it was settled into the magazine well.

The fix: (or at least what I would do).
1. Assuming that one side of part # 54 is higher on one side, you need to add enough bedding so the barrel rest evenly in the action. I would add some tape to the sides of part # 54 so it fits tighter in the action, as well as tape to the top of this part, ( as it appears you have done), so when the barrel is tightened into the action, it applies a little force to the top of part #54 to keep it firm in the action, thereby providing a bed for the barrel/part #54 interface, and taking the "slop" out of the Magazine Latch Assembly so the magazine is more firmly held in the magazine well.
2. If you add two layers of tape to Part #54, add the same to the chassis where the barrel rests where the front action screw is located.
3. Where the rear action screw enters the chassis, you'll notice two "pillars" on each side of the chassis. These "pillars" corresponds with two cutouts on each side of the barrel. I'm assuming that these pillars and cutouts serve as an alignment guide when putting the barrel into the action. If they are not aligned, the barrel will not go into the action. I'm thinking that they may also serve as a recoil lug. I would also but some tape to fit over the top and sides of the pillars to tighten up the fitment between these pillars and the cutouts in the barrel. If you have a micrometer, you can get an idea of how much tape to add in this area by measuring the pillar width and the cutouts in the barrel.
4. When you place the barrel back into the action, thread the action screws into the action only far enough to hold them, then place the rifle on it's butt, perhaps lightly bumping the rifle on its butt, (mimicking recoil), to seat the barrel rearward into the action, then tighten the actions screws per the owners manual.

The above is what I've done when I bedded my rifle, and it helped to tighten the groups. I also shot just about every type of .22 ammo I could find to see what the rifle liked. Better quality ammo gave me better results, up to a point.
 

Funcpottr

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So, has anyone used a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire II 4x12-40mm with bdc and preset 75m parallax? Found it for $100 at midwayusa. Is there anything else out there for this price or $150 that will compare?
I looked at the Nikon and then went with a Hawke 4-12x50 with the subsonic 22lr bdc. It's under 200 and the only problem I have had is the parallax at 25yds on a quart inch swinger. I liked the bdc for my son so we didn't have to tackle dialing until he was older and he loves the scope. For that money I would do it again.
 
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unicron

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Finished the build for my 9 year old daughter....we should have some good fun with it!
have an older Leupold 4-14x on it, with some high Steiner rings.
A few observations out of the box...
-action was pretty rough, cycling has helped a bit
-hand guard is a tad off center, pointing upwards

Brief test fire last weekend went well, tried CCI standard velocity and CCI AR...from the small sample of groups it seemed to like the CCI standard slightly better.

 

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peterbing

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Just wanted to add to this thread. When I was researching this gun, I stumbled upon it and found the information very helpful. From Elfster's videos including the aluminum foil bedding to ammo testing from the community, it had a lot of great things. After 2,230 rounds, here's a couple things to address some comments:

1) "Not Precise": A lot of complaints are about the rifle being "not precise". This is true if you are using ammo that the rifle doesn't like. Mine doesn't like CCI ammo. Shoots 3-4 MOA on MiniMag (CPHP and CPRN). Shoots 8+ MOA on S&B Standard LRN 40g.

2) "Not Precise Enough": This is a matter of debate. Some people demand .25" groups CTC for 50y. For me, the 1MOA marker was good enough. This was achievable with Eley Force, Edge, and Match. Fed Black Pack CPHP (36g version) was ~1.6 MOA.

Ammo Stats for those who need info (50y - yes, 1 MOA = 0.5"):
Fed Black Pack 36g CPHP - 1,450 shot through - 170 5/10 shot groups - 1.624 MOA AVG - 1 in 10 Sub-MOA
CCI MiniMag 36 CPHP - 20 rounds - Categorized as Garbage for my rifle
CCI MiniMag 40 CPRN - 10 rounds - Also Garbage (3-4 MOA)
CCI Clean-22 HV - 100 rounds - So bad, it looks like a shotgun
S&B LRN Standard 40g - 100 rounds - 8+ MOA
Eley Force - 350 rounds - 55 5-shot groups - 1.126 MOA AVG - 36% Sub-MOA
Eley Edge - 100 rounds - 15 5-shot groups - 1.097 MOA AVG - 53% Sub-MOA
Eley Match - 100 rounds - 15 5-shot groups - 0.989 MOA AVG - 66% Sub-MOA

Note that rounds and groups don't match up, because I almost always warm up 25 rounds out of 100 rounds, even when just switching ammo. No fliers were excluded from the stats. Combined with Corey D's Youtube videos of ammo testing, hopefully this post will help others decide if they want to buy an RPR or not.
 
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Funcpottr

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I don't know, but I'm not there yet. But it'd be another rifle for the quiver, not a replacement. :)
I really like my ruger precision. I also really liked the first scope I put on it. Finally got to a diamondback tac and wished I had skipped ahead to it in the first place. Looking to get a t1x. Maybe it's just another collection...
 
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Kisssofdeath

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Same goes the other way. But if you don't care, why make a statement at all?
I made the statement because some people may not know, it's called education. I never said anything negative about the barrel nor did I word it to seems that way. Your interpretation is flawed and obviously you are butthurt. Please find a safe space and go color or play with blocks or something.
 

zenbike

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I made the statement because some people may not know, it's called education. I never said anything negative about the barrel nor did I word it to seems that way. Your interpretation is flawed and obviously you are butthurt. Please find a safe space and go color or play with blocks or something.
You're calling people names, but I'm butthurt? Find a mirror, my friend.
 

Frankr

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I really wonder how one will shoot with that barrel.
When you can put one on a cz457 for the same or a little bit more (barrel cost on a Cz 457 trainer + Boyd’s precision Varmint stock) then I think if becomes harder to sell it.

I will wait and see if anyone buys one.
The RPRr has a lot of good things and I think a metal bottom chassis would solve a lot of the issues people have had with them.
 

Funcpottr

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I really wonder how one will shoot with that barrel.
When you can put one on a cz457 for the same or a little bit more (barrel cost on a Cz 457 trainer + Boyd’s precision Varmint stock) then I think if becomes harder to sell it.

I will wait and see if anyone buys one.
The RPRr has a lot of good things and I think a metal bottom chassis would solve a lot of the issues people have had with them.
Thankful for people with ideas and the willingness to share them!
 

zenbike

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I really wonder how one will shoot with that barrel.
When you can put one on a cz457 for the same or a little bit more (barrel cost on a Cz 457 trainer + Boyd’s precision Varmint stock) then I think if becomes harder to sell it.

I will wait and see if anyone buys one.
The RPRr has a lot of good things and I think a metal bottom chassis would solve a lot of the issues people have had with them.
People have purchased the Lilja barrels, at $500. I don’t see this as a lot different.
 

Kisssofdeath

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You're calling people names, but I'm butthurt? Find a mirror, my friend.
This conversation is silly and this will be my last reply. I never called anyone a name, if I did please reference it. As for you being "butthurt" that was pretty obvious with your very first word in your very first reply. FWIW I apologize for saying you were butthurt if that offends you. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. 🤝
 

littlepod

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I know both people, and they're both pretty great people to the community and helping others, so I'd just drop these little spitter spatter. I don't think anyone really means any offense to anyone else. We all love the same game.

I do realize that money in our rifles/gun equipment is not always the most financially sound investment but shooting is much more than analytics and numbers. There's a lot of emotions, and things you tie in from all the times you use a rifle. I'm not allowed to sell my Sako KRG Bravo because my fiance just loves the memories associated with it, that now it's a $350 wall ornament.
 

vaguru

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Anyone have a good picture of the breech end of an RPR Rimfire barrel? How about measurements of the breech end, tang diameter, tang length, shoulder diameter and length?

I have an idea and don't want to tear down my rifle (shooting too good), to get this info.

Thanks
 

copterdrvr

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Picked up a new RPR 22 the last week of December 2019 and I LOVE IT!

Read here about the brown gunk in the barrel so after one pass with some Bore Tech rimfire solvent on a bore brush and a clean patch to dry it, went straight to my Bore Brite. Hit the chamber and leade about 30 strokes and the whole barrel about 25-borescope showed nice, shiny clean barrel. Other than the cleaning, the only thing I did was back out the trigger spring until I felt no spring tension. I found a scope base screw loose so I pulled all of them and applied blue Loctite. I also found the rear receiver screw completely loose and the front screw torqued to 35 inch pounds-go figure......

Installed a Bushnell Forge 3X18 30mm scope and I think it's a perfect match for the rifle. The parralex goes down to 25 yards, has an 84 MOA adjustment range, zero stop and great glass. I was shooting steel at 325 yds with it on my first trip to the range.

Shot some groups with a variety of ammo ranging from fairly inexpensive to stupid expensive and fortunately it did really well with the "real world" stuff.

I have the two target sheets that make up the test but I'll just list the results right now. Some of the ammo have multiple measured groups.

All groups are 5 shot groups except for the 10 shot Eley Match group. All groups fired at 50 yards unless otherwise noted.

CCI SV .619, second group 4shots into .369 with 5 shots into .553
SK LONG RANGE .452, .433 and .394.
Center-X .429
Midas + .565 and .486
Eley Tenex .506 and .469
Eley Match 10 rounds into .425 and 5 rounds on a separate bull into .253!!!!!

I shot two groups at 100 yards:

Eley Tenex. .990
Aguila Pistol Match .965

Yeah, I love this rifle.
 
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zenbike

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Anyone have a good picture of the breech end of an RPR Rimfire barrel? How about measurements of the breech end, tang diameter, tang length, shoulder diameter and length?

I have an idea and don't want to tear down my rifle (shooting too good), to get this info.

Thanks

This should do ya. If not, feel free to ask, I've got my old barrel sitting loose.

The only thing I gouldn't see a way to put on the photos was the angle of the exctractor cut face. Its at 75 degrees relative to the bore, and the depth is 2.25mm.

All measurements are taken with a digital caliper, and are as accurate as I can make them, but probably aren't perfection incarnate.


Good Luck,


Josh
 

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copterdrvr

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I mentioned shooting steel with the Ruger and that was a hoot. We have steel set up at 325 yards and even though the weather wasn't perfect, I wanted to see how the scope would range at that distance. Scope did great but my dope was off-I was hitting like 5 MOA low. Winds were basically from my six (sorta) at 5 to 7 but I needed 2 MOA for wind age.

I started out with a box of Eley Match and it took about 15 or so rounds to get on the big steel. Spent the rest of the box shooting at a 4 inch plate ( because that was the biggest piece of steel I could clearly detect hits on!) and I probably hit it at least 20 times if not more -I was REALLY happy with the rifle, scope and ammo.

One question-does anyone have any good BC info for the Eley Match 40 grn Bullet? The G1 I entered was .150 and the bullet length was .475. With these numbers alone I was getting a spin drift of .9 MOA at 325!
 
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vaguru

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This should do ya. If not, feel free to ask, I've got my old barrel sitting loose.

The only thing I gouldn't see a way to put on the photos was the angle of the exctractor cut face. Its at 75 degrees relative to the bore, and the depth is 2.25mm.

All measurements are taken with a digital caliper, and are as accurate as I can make them, but probably aren't perfection incarnate.


Good Luck,


Josh
Thanks that will get me going.
 

TheMightyGorilla

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At what point do you decide you should have spent your money ih a different rifle?
IMHO if I have to replace the barrel, this is no longer an RPR. I love the rifle. There are more accurate ones, but not for this price! After shooting my wife's silly accurate Anshutz 64 MS, I will not be updating my RPR, but buying some other additional rifle. Unsure what, but I refuse to chase the sub moa dragon anymore with my RPR. It puts a smile on my face now, and that is good enough.