Ruger Precision Rimfire

Frankr

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I was on the whistlepig website and didn't see any 17hmr barrels. Probably never work in the Ruger PR because of magazine issue.

AFAIK he only makes 17mach 2 barrels, which based on the 22lr case necked down to 0.17. Go over to the 17 mach2 section on RFC if you want to know more about it but they feed from 22lr magazines just fine.
 
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Kisssofdeath

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Straightshooter1,

Although I have had zero issues with my Ruger PR, I did have ejection issues with my Steyr Zephyr II. Just saying that any gun can have issues so don't feel discouraged. As a matter of fact right now my Savage MK II is having problems extracting and with all brands of ammo. And it doesn't get shot a lot. If you need better or more photos let me know, I'd be happy to help out.
 

straightshooter1

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Straightshooter1,

Although I have had zero issues with my Ruger PR, I did have ejection issues with my Steyr Zephyr II. Just saying that any gun can have issues so don't feel discouraged. As a matter of fact right now my Savage MK II is having problems extracting and with all brands of ammo. And it doesn't get shot a lot. If you need better or more photos let me know, I'd be happy to help out.
Was able to get out today and fired off 140 rounds of various ammo . . . and no ejection problems. Well . . . except for once when I was doing a rapid cycle and didn't pull the bolt all the way back. So apparently, my little fix has done the trick and am much happier with the way it's ejecting now. Though it's still not a strong ejection, it's at least consistent.
 

rimfire22lr

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I got out to the silhouette range today. I fired CCI SV and some British military surplus Eley from the 1960s. I used an SWFA SS 12x42 scope. I use a 50-yard zero. I used a Magnetospeed V3. I recorded the following data.
RPRR, factory barrel with titanium compensator.
CCI SV- 1005 average, 14.0 SD.
ELEY- 1055 average, 10.2 SD.
100 meters +2.5 MILS
200 meters +8.4/8.5 MILS
300 meters +16.0 MILS with the ELEY
Fantastic fun.
 

straightshooter1

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Try puttinmg one or two strips of tape on the botton of part #57. This will lift the ejector and should solve your problem.
That's a good idea.

In my case, the ejector was and is high enough, but was too far off to the side where it would barely make contact with the casing. And when giving that configuration with the looseness of the Magazine Latch Assembly, I can see why there would be inconsistency with proper ejection.
 

Jack_O_Trades

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First post to the forum; probably not the rightplace for it.

I picked up a RPRR yesterday. I’ve have a RPR that I’ve been shooting for a couple years now.

First thing I did when I got home was tear apart the rifle. I picked up a Timney trigger for this rifle as it’s similar to what I have on my RPR.

It’s not a drop in mod as most of you know. I’ve seen people mod the Timney trigger for this platform. Here is my take on it.

As you can see the RPR and RPRR triggers are identical with the exception of some additional machining to get it to fit to the RPRR receiver.

Stock RPR Trigger


Stock RPRR Trigger


Side by side, RPRR on the Left and RPR on the right


I have a small CNC in my garage. I was originally going to do this on the manual mill but I thought I would just do a quick CNC program.

The first step was to strip down the safety mechanism that protruded from the side of the trigger


Then, onto the mill. It took three trips to get it right. In then end it came out OK and if I have to do it again the program is there.




Here it is fitted up to the receiver. It looks like it should work. It certainly feels better than the stock trigger. I will be testing it this weekend








 
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Jack_O_Trades

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Jack, were you able to test the trigger?
Yes, it worked out great. I zeroed in the rifle @ 100 yds and then took it out and was hitting 10x18 steel targets at 340 yds.

I don’t have a lot of experience with good triggers. I have a gieselle on one of my AR’s, a Kidd two stage on my 10-22, a couple of CZ’s with the single set triggers and then my two Rugers with the Timney triggers. I do like them.

I didn’t do a 6x5 (or 5x6?) target but it had a pretty decent grouping (for me) at 50 yds around 1-1.5 MOA.

I’m relatively new to precision shooting and only get out about 5 times a year so sometimes it’s hard for me to determine if the accuracy is in the gun or the shooter.

I am running a Vortex Crosfire II 6-24 x50 and ran out of elevation right at 340 yards (had 39 MOA from my 100yd zero) I had about 13 MOA in the down so I might be looking at doing a custom rail. An additional 10 MOA would get me out to 380 and if I zeroed at 200 (also a custom rail) I can get out to around 450.

My only issue with the gun right now is inconsistent ejection. I have read that other people have experienced this. I still need to investigate it.

Overall I am happy with the setup especially for the price tag. I spent more time with this rig than my 6.5 this weekend because it was enjoyable. It really is a fine fun to shoot. And, I have never taken 22lr out past 150 yds.

Here is my setup. A couple of notes; I’m not a fan of UTG products but I do like these bipod legs. They are affordable, the design is novel (vs ripping off someone else’s design), they have a slightly wider stance than typical Harris style bipod. Most importantly, they performed well! The rifle felt stable on the bench.

I threw the muzzle break on for cosmetic value and to try and help trigger my lab radar. I was not able to get the lab radar to trigger and need to investigate alternate methods.



 
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Kisssofdeath

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UTG makes a really nice set of 34mm rings. I believe they are called UTG Pro and are very reasonably priced. Anyway here are two photos of them holding my Vortex Razor on my BRNO 4 Biathlon.

1542013247535.png1542013262210.png
 
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Kisssofdeath

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Took apart my Ruger Precision Rimfire today. Cleaned the factory barrel thoroughly and here is what I seen with the bore scope after cleaning. Does anyone else have a bore scope to inspect their barrel? Does it have these circular marks? The marks are 360°. Notice these four photos are taking at different areas. The entire barrel length is like this. I will have to double check but I don't believe my $210 Savage MK II barrel looks like this. This gun has never shot that good. When I was cleaning the barrel I noticed the patch on my Parker/Hale jag was not as tight on any of my other 22 rifles. Anyway, since this thread is about the Ruger PR I thought I would share this. One reason why I am so interested in the Shaw barrel.

1542066572974.png1542066592320.png1542066604843.png1542066612522.png
 

Kisssofdeath

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I may contact Ruger and show them these photos and ask if this is normal. If the guy/gal says yes, then I will tell them I'll never buy another Ruger product because their quality cannot be trusted. I mean you can't deny the photos, the probe is sticking in the Ruger barrel.
 

Pilotscrappy

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I've been skimming over this thread and had couple questions.

You guys that have them, are you happy with them?
Would you maybe wait till they roll out the gen 2 rim fire?

I'm wanting a good rim fire, but need to keep cost down and the fact I can get this ruger for $400 is attractive.

I know this isn't going to be a voodo but for 400 bux is it a good deal?

Also has anyone found a good match barrel for the rprr ?
 

kgc54

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I've been skimming over this thread and had couple questions.

You guys that have them, are you happy with them?
Would you maybe wait till they roll out the gen 2 rim fire?

I'm wanting a good rim fire, but need to keep cost down and the fact I can get this ruger for $400 is attractive.

I know this isn't going to be a voodo but for 400 bux is it a good deal?

Also has anyone found a good match barrel for the rprr ?
I've had mine since the beginning of June. It's been a journey, sent the rifle back into Ruger because the accuracy was no better than my factory RAR. Ruger replaced chassis, barrel and barrel nut. Shot much better on return. I'm not a big fan of short barreled tactical rifles so when Green Mountain offered a 22" drop-in replacement I jumped on it. The GM replacement shoots much better than the factory barrel, but that's to be expected because GM has a Bentz chambering.

The only issues I have are; first there is only one bedding block to the rear of the magazine well, the front bedding surface is directly to the chassis. This brings me to my second issue the glass filled nylon chassis; would rather have aluminum, but that would have added $100s to the price. Would I have waited? I really don't think so, and there is no guarantee that there would be a gen II.
 

straightshooter1

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I've been skimming over this thread and had couple questions.

You guys that have them, are you happy with them?
Would you maybe wait till they roll out the gen 2 rim fire?

I'm wanting a good rim fire, but need to keep cost down and the fact I can get this ruger for $400 is attractive.

I know this isn't going to be a voodo but for 400 bux is it a good deal?

Also has anyone found a good match barrel for the rprr ?
Maybe I'm more easy to please than other's and don't expect perfection out of a mass produced product, but I'm very happy with what I got at this price point (I paid $365) despite having to do a little tweaking of the loose magazine assembly and the extractor. Some of the features I feel is really good at price point are things like the adjustable stock, a 30 MOA rail, free floating "target" barrel (though not a match barrel) and it's ability to use Ruger's established rotary magazines. Oh, and the adjustable trigger is really pretty nice too. The barrel produced higher velocities from various ammo than my other factory Ruger .22LR rifles of similar length and the accuracy was a tad better for me. Like you, my pocket book is limited. So I had already planned on replacing the factory barrel for a match barrel where wind up with $600-700 gun the would shoot really well (though not expecting to be at an X40 or Voodo match level). Bottom line is . . . yes, I'm happy with my "gen-1" and its new Shaw barrel . . . and nothing else out there like it to compete at this price point (IMHO). And I especially like it because I have an RPR where this 22LR have much the same feel.

If they or when they come out with a gen 2, I feel they'll likely resolve the issues many of us have experienced with this gen 1. Just remember, this is a factory production rifle with a "target" barrel rather than a match barrel.
 
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Pilotscrappy

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Nice video, looks like a fun little gun, I'm thinking I'm going to go ahead and get one.
I have the big brother rpr in 6.5 cm and thinking this would be a good little trainer to have
 
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honuswagner

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I've noted a trend on all Rimfire boards... Everyone seems to what to hate Rugers attempts at a precision rimfire, even thought there has been plenty of targets posted that clearly show there barrels can go toe to toe with everyone favorite darling the CZ. My Ruger Target shot great out of the box. and the Ruger Prevision looks like it is doing the same.

Few of us can or will drop $2-$3K on a Rimfire bolt gun and another $1K on a scope. Especially when there are options like Ruger out there. And Just my Humble opinion, worth what you paid for it, but the Ruger Magazine is the Number 1 feed system out there.Based on performance and cost.

Seems to me the biggest variable in rimfire is the ammunition, not the weapon system.
 

quickdraw

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Seems to me the biggest variable in rimfire is the ammunition, not the weapon system.
I will humbly disagree...to a point. I believe that there are several important factors with the top 2 being the ammunition and equally or even more so how the ammunition is handle by the loading mechanism. The most critical part of a 22 bullet is the driving bands on these oh so soft lead bullets. Stripping a bullet out of a mag and slamming it up again the feed ramp and then again as it hits the top of the chamber can not only damage the driving bands but also bend and loosen where the bullet joins the case. Try grabbing a 22 round and bending the bullet at that joint until it breaks. It is surprisingly easy.
 
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kgc54

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I will humbly disagree...to a point. I believe that there are several important factors with the top 2 being the ammunition and equally or even more so how the ammunition is handle by the loading mechanism. The most critical part of a 22 bullet is the driving bands on these oh so soft lead bullets. Stripping a bullet out of a mag and slamming it up again the feed ramp and then again as it hits the top of the chamber can not only damage the driving bands but also bend and loosen where the bullet joins the case. Try grabbing a 22 round and bending the bullet at that joint until it breaks. It is surprisingly easy.
I agree; that's why I disassembled each of my BX-1 10 round magazines and reassembled them using half of the recommended windings for the magizine. The bullets strip out much easier now and I haven't had any FTF problems in over 1000 rounds of various ammunition.
 

Subwrx300

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Took apart my Ruger Precision Rimfire today. Cleaned the factory barrel thoroughly and here is what I seen with the bore scope after cleaning. Does anyone else have a bore scope to inspect their barrel? Does it have these circular marks? The marks are 360°. Notice these four photos are taking at different areas. The entire barrel length is like this. I will have to double check but I don't believe my $210 Savage MK II barrel looks like this. This gun has never shot that good. When I was cleaning the barrel I noticed the patch on my Parker/Hale jag was not as tight on any of my other 22 rifles. Anyway, since this thread is about the Ruger PR I thought I would share this. One reason why I am so interested in the Shaw barrel.

View attachment 6969700View attachment 6969701View attachment 6969702View attachment 6969703
I have the same bore scope and have done the same test... Looks like yours. While mine did shoot pretty well, it's not a great looking surface and can't be that helpful to precision or SD over time. I put over 1000 rounds through it before swapping to ER Shaw and scoped it after pulling it from the rig. Not that impressive.

The Shaw barrel on the other hand looked like a silver mirror. Very clean and very smooth.
 

honuswagner

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I agree; that's why I disassembled each of my BX-1 10 round magazines and reassembled them using half of the recommended windings for the magizine. The bullets strip out much easier now and I haven't had any FTF problems in over 1000 rounds of various ammunition.
Never thought of this, learn something new every day. I always like to have someone challenge my comments!
 

Dev L

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I installed and shot my Shaw barrel today. Also filed off the burrs on the bedding block and put aluminum tape on the entire top, sides, and rear. Its super tight now. Need to use a delrin punch to tap out of chassis tight. Also a tiny single strip at front of chassis.

Shot 100 yard 5 shot groups of 1.07" with Wolf Extra Match and .88" with SK Rifle Match. Had 50 yard 5 shot groups in the .25" to .45" range with the same ammo.

Reliability went down. Needed to ensure I pushed forward on the mag to cock the rounds more upward to get reliable feeding. Before I just needed to not pull the mags to the rear and point them down but leaving them alone was enough to ensure reliability. 100% reliable with mags at correct angle. Need to find a way to make them always stay at that angle.

I also feel like my stock trigger and Athlon BTR 6-24×50 Argos are holding me back. I think consistently shooting 3/4 MOA is a realistic goal now. Its nipping at my stock RPR 6.5 Creed accuracy finally.
 
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Travelor

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Don't forget to take the thread protector off when shooting groups. The thread protector, when screwed on tight, has a gap between the muzzle and the cap causing poorer accuracy. If you opt for a Green Mountain barrel there s no gap.
 
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JesseB81

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I took out my main trigger spring (5mm x 18mm) and replaced it with a spring from a bic pen slightly stretched to 18mm. The safety works as it should. The rifle will not fire unless the safety blade is depressed. The trigger pull is 1 pound. The rifle would not cock upon bolt lift unless the bolt was opened briskly. I tightened the trigger adjustment set screw a few turns and the rifle cocks with the gentlest bolt lift and is still at 1 pound. It feels perfect.
 

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Dev L

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Don't forget to take the thread protector off when shooting groups. The thread protector, when screwed on tight, has a gap between the muzzle and the cap causing poorer accuracy. If you opt for a Green Mountain barrel there s no gap.
Do you mean for the Shaw barrel? Because I shot sans cap with the Shaw barrel and the cap made no difference on my factory barrel. I have not tried cap on with my Shaw.
 

Stan628

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I agree; that's why I disassembled each of my BX-1 10 round magazines and reassembled them using half of the recommended windings for the magizine. The bullets strip out much easier now and I haven't had any FTF problems in over 1000 rounds of various ammunition.
I'm going to give this a try. Thanks for the tip.
 

Dev L

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signed up also - thanks for the chance to participate
I signed up too... even from the photos, you can see the lack of E clips on the smaller pins will remove that wobbly, sloppy fit of the factory trigger pins. Even if I don't get to beta test, I hope the full release is soon because I NEED a better trigger.
 
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Islander

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I agree; that's why I disassembled each of my BX-1 10 round magazines and reassembled them using half of the recommended windings for the magizine. The bullets strip out much easier now and I haven't had any FTF problems in over 1000 rounds of various ammunition.
That's a great idea. I would think the only reason for a tighter tension is to feed better when cycling fast. Which most folks with those mags in 10/22's do with them.
 

kgc54

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That's a great idea. I would think the only reason for a tighter tension is to feed better when cycling fast. Which most folks with those mags in 10/22's do with them.
I started doing this when I noticed some deformed/dented rounds being chambered.
 

Oleshep

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I started doing this when I noticed some deformed/dented rounds being chambered.[/QUOTEI

I just did this with my single BX10 mag and it did make a substantial diffrence in how smooth the rounds cambered. How many windings are you doing when you reassemble? it is too bad we can't reduce the spring tension on the BX15 mags..