Ruger Precision Rimfire

Vamike9

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Most of those groups look outstanding, less than .5in for sure. I plan to take my RPRR out again to test some different ammo soon.
I absolutely love the trigger on the one I have, zero creep and very light.
 

Subwrx300

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So I haven't measured target yet but I reshot the test above after bedding and a few groups did tighten up substantially. However it's still hovering around 1-1.5moa at 50 and 100yds for 10 shot groups. 75% of those bullets land inside 1/2 -3/4 moa though so it's really just the flyers that are killing me.

The good news is it also holds easy 1.5-2MOA out to 388. Had a 75% hit rate at 300 on a 6" plate and 50% on 6" at 388. Wind was a bit soft but rough to pick up the gusts. Iwould consider both of those awesome given that it's holding SD around 9-10 and I have only $400 wrapped into rifle.

Will I get a new barrel? Sure, eventually. But for now it forces me to work much harder during practice which is exactly why I bought it. I think a 1-1.5 MOA bolt rimfire is fine for my needs... Until it isn't. Lol.
 
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Subwrx300

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Measured target after bedding job on RPRF; it definitely helped a bit (about 15-20%) compared to before. I shot three 5-shot groups then a 10 shot for each ammo; the first avg is the 5-shot groups and the second number is a single 10 shot group with worst shot removed. Reason for pulling 1 and only 1 flyer from the 10-shot group is that it's more comparable to the 5 shot group avg. In fact it's been very close in each test (as you will see below). With Rimfire, there is bound to be an outlier and 90%

Here are results and a photo of target:
  • FGM Target: 5-shot avg .62"; 9-shot .67"
  • FGM HV Match: 5-shot avg .92"; 9-shot 1.00"
  • SK Rifle Match: 5-shot avg 1.21";9-shot .86"
  • SK Std Plus: 5-shot avg .55"; 9-shot .76"
  • Fed UltraMatch: 5-shot avg .55"; 9-shot .63"
  • CCI STD Velocity: 5-shot avg .52; 10-shot .64"
Its interesting to note that Fed Target, Ultra Match and CCI standard velocity performed the best overall. In fact CCI Standard produced the smallest group at .3" but it matches the UM and Target Federal flavors and is cheapest of any ammo tested here.
IMG_20180902_130543.jpg
The Target group sizes are slightly bigger BUT I also did a quick torque tune to test 5lb intervals. Original groups shot at 35inlbs for both screws. Here are results from my tune testing (bottom center group of photo)
  • 30in/lbs - .77" group stringing
  • 35in/lbs - .78" group (this was test target torque)
  • 40 in/lbs - .61" group
  • 45in/lbs - .4" group
While the group changes in size is likely within margin of error for rifle, it was interesting to see a change. Merits possibly exploring further in future testing. I shot the test at arguably the worst torque setting (which happens to be Rugers recommended max torque.) But I'm not sure I'd advise increasing torque beyond 35 unless you have solid contact at stock/screw mating areas. If their is a void/gap, you could break the plastic.
 

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I was curious what the avg velocity people are getting with the 22 in GM barrel. Is there an increase or decrease?
 

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Hey guys, trying to post an optic questiom on the ruger precisiom rimfire thread. Wondering if a set of leupold rifleman medium rings (part # 57380) will work and have clearance with a vortex copperhead 4-12x44. Havent received my rifle yet but bought this optic for it and had the rings already. Also, wondering if this setup will give me trouble with the 30moa rail. Not too sure how that 30moa thing works tbh...ive never shot "precision .22" before. Does that mean the rail has a slope to it? If so, will i have issues with my glass setup getting a zero? Im assuming i want my rings as far apart on the tube as possible, which would spead out over the entire rail..would that give me the 30moa angle? I dont intend on ever shooting this gun over 100 yards if that helps. Thanks guys!!
 

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In all honesty, I have almost no experience with a scope. Still doing my research on how to get it installed and zero'd as user friendly as possible. Ive seen the bore sighting method and that seems easiest to get my baseline...removing the bolt and eyeballing it at 25 or 50 yards down the barrel and matching the crosshairs to where it looks like poi might be. I appreciate any advise you all can help me with.
 

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In all honesty, I have almost no experience with a scope. Still doing my research on how to get it installed and zero'd as user friendly as possible. Ive seen the bore sighting method and that seems easiest to get my baseline...removing the bolt and eyeballing it at 25 or 50 yards down the barrel and matching the crosshairs to where it looks like poi might be. I appreciate any advise you all can help me with.
Not 100 percent sure. I used 1.26 in high vortex pmr rings for a 50mm objective and the fit is perfect. There was a ring height calculator somewhere on the forums. I’m sure if you google it you may stumble upon it on the inter webs
 

Aggrofish

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I think you're going to be real close. Leupold lists those rings as .897 which is almost half the 44mm objective. I'm not 100 percent sure that's how it works but I had medium rings at .97 with a 50mm objective and they didn't work. I think even with the smaller bell, but lower mediums you're goi to run into the same problem.

In all honesty, I have almost no experience with a scope. Still doing my research on how to get it installed and zero'd as user friendly as possible. Ive seen the bore sighting method and that seems easiest to get my baseline...removing the bolt and eyeballing it at 25 or 50 yards down the barrel and matching the crosshairs to where it looks like poi might be. I appreciate any advise you all can help me with.
 

Vamike9

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In all honesty, I have almost no experience with a scope. Still doing my research on how to get it installed and zero'd as user friendly as possible. Ive seen the bore sighting method and that seems easiest to get my baseline...removing the bolt and eyeballing it at 25 or 50 yards down the barrel and matching the crosshairs to where it looks like poi might be. I appreciate any advise you all can help me with.
Installing a riflescope correctly is extremely important.
•First use a quality base, 1 or 2 piece is your preference.
• Make sure scope rings are pushed forward and tightened to correct specs.
•Find your correct eye relief (where you have a full view when shouldering the rifle without seeing vlack edges.
•Tighten the scope rings top half to spec.
There are many videos on this topic, look for one with many likes from a well known rifleman if possible.
Hope this helps
 

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Hey guys, trying to post an optic questiom on the ruger precisiom rimfire thread. Wondering if a set of leupold rifleman medium rings (part # 57380) will work and have clearance with a vortex copperhead 4-12x44. Havent received my rifle yet but bought this optic for it and had the rings already. Also, wondering if this setup will give me trouble with the 30moa rail. Not too sure how that 30moa thing works tbh...ive never shot "precision .22" before. Does that mean the rail has a slope to it? If so, will i have issues with my glass setup getting a zero? Im assuming i want my rings as far apart on the tube as possible, which would spead out over the entire rail..would that give me the 30moa angle? I dont intend on ever shooting this gun over 100 yards if that helps. Thanks guys!!
I'm running a Vortex Diamondback Hp 4-16 with Warne 202M rings (high) objective OSD is 51 with 3mm clearance.
 

Noobshooter86

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Not 100 percent sure. I used 1.26 in high vortex pmr rings for a 50mm objective and the fit is perfect. There was a ring height calculator somewhere on the forums. I’m sure if you google it you may stumble upon it on the inter webs
Im not sure on the exact height of these rings, just that they are cheapy leupold mediums. I will definitely check out that ring height calculator now. Thanks very much for your help 👍👍
 

straightshooter1

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I was curious what the avg velocity people are getting with the 22 in GM barrel. Is there an increase or decrease?
Given all things equal, the longer barrel will decrease the MV. For example: using CCI Green Tag with a published MV of 1070 fps, I get an average of about 1080 fps out of my Ruger Precision Rimfire (18 in barrel) and 1061 fps out of my Ruger American that has a 22 in barrel. I see more decrease in barrels as they lengthen beyond 16 inches as I look at my very long list of 22 LR data composed of various types to LR rounds and barrel lengths.

I would expect a GM 22 in "match" barrel would have a very similar decrease compared to other shorter "match" barrels. Just how much difference would probably depend on the difference in twist rate too (faster twists would tend to slow a round down some).

So, in replacing the stock RPRF 18 in barrel with a GM barrel, you're going to see some decrease in MV.
 
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Noobshooter86

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So the rings i have are .6875 if i measured right...from center of ring to where it would sit at the top of the rail. Im thinking with a 44mm its not going to clear. I tried using the ring calculator, but i do not know the length of the rail to calculate what the drop is, factoring in the 30moa slant. This may be an easier question... Is anyone running a 44mm with a 1" tube? If so what height rings are you using? Im looking to keep the glass as low as possible and still be able to get a 50 yard zero.

I am planning on getting the 0moa mount from ruger, if what i have read from you all is right, that should work better for what type of shooting i will be doing. 100 yards max, probably between 50-75 (i have no ability to stretch out any further at my home range).
 

Subwrx300

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So the rings i have are .6875 if i measured right...from center of ring to where it would sit at the top of the rail. Im thinking with a 44mm its not going to clear. I tried using the ring calculator, but i do not know the length of the rail to calculate what the drop is, factoring in the 30moa slant. This may be an easier question... Is anyone running a 44mm with a 1" tube? If so what height rings are you using? Im looking to keep the glass as low as possible and still be able to get a 50 yard zero.

I am planning on getting the 0moa mount from ruger, if what i have read from you all is right, that should work better for what type of shooting i will be doing. 100 yards max, probably between 50-75 (i have no ability to stretch out any further at my home range).
Based on some of the replies here and other threads, I'm pretty sure you are going to need high rings. It's basically like an AR flat top handguard but the 30moa rail kicks the objective down even closer to the rail. Divide the out objective diameter (usually 3-4mm larger than objective) by 2 and convert to inches. If that number is smaller than your good. However my guess is that you will need a ~1.00" rise ring to clear if your not running lens caps. If you are running caps then more like 1.1" or so.
 

Subwrx300

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Range update: I decided to lap my barrel a bit more to see if I could reduce flyers. I used JP Bore paste and JP bore shine for about 100 strokes each.

Results: good and bad. The good is that I reduced flyers at 50 yards with CCI Standard Velocity by a fair amount. In fact it's shooting about as well as FGM Target and FGM UltraMatch. Average 5 shot group of .5-.6" which is great. 15 shots string had avg of 1047fps, SD of 11.4 and ES of 35. Safely subsonic and consistent. It ran GREAT when squeaky clean putting up a .5" 10 shot ragged circular hole, but as it fouls in, it speeds up just enough to start going 50/50 super/subsonic.
IMG_20180902_162526.jpg
IMG_20180902_163810.jpg
However the bad is something I didn't expect/think about: I speed up the barrel by about 20fps. The Federal Target ammo that was an average of 1108 with SD of 10 is now 1126 with SD of 11.2 and eat of 36, which is juusst over the speed of sound which is causing accuracy to degrade at ranges past 50.
IMG_20180902_163516.jpg
IMG_20180902_163813.jpg

Anyone know of a good way to slow down a barrel?? I really never thought I'd ever be asking that question....
 

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Given all things equal, the longer barrel will decrease the MV. For example: using CCI Green Tag with a published MV of 1070 fps, I get an average of about 1080 fps out of my Ruger Precision Rimfire (18 in barrel) and 1061 fps out of my Ruger American that has a 22 in barrel. I see more decrease in barrels as they lengthen beyond 16 inches as I look at my very long list of 22 LR data composed of various types to LR rounds and barrel lengths.

I would expect a GM 22 in "match" barrel would have a very similar decrease compared to other shorter "match" barrels. Just how much difference would probably depend on the difference in twist rate too (faster twists would tend to slow a round down some).

So, in replacing the stock RPRF 18 in barrel with a GM barrel, you're going to see some decrease in MV.
Thanks for the insight. I assumed it would give a slight increase to MV just like a centerfire round would. Still looking for someone with some actual proof and numbers.
 

Noobshooter86

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Guys thanks very much for all the info. Glad i was allowd to join this forum. Its pretty cool everyone isnt bashing me for my lack of knowledge. 👍 Im gonna go out on a limb here, hopefully this iant where i get bashed on, lol, but has anyone ran thunderbolt thru their rprf? Ill be completely honest, im not going to throw the gun away if it doesnt shoot 1/2" groups at 100, or drop another 500 to make that happen...i bought this gun to slow myself down a bit and enjoy shooting like i did as a kid with my old man plinking .22s. i havent even looked into real awesome match ammo, which im sure i will once i get my rifle, but the idea behind this gun is to be able to spend the day with my kids and not break the bank. Again, thanks alot guys i really appreciate you all taking the time to help me out.
 

Noobshooter86

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Sorry one other thing, i asked this before but dont think anyone caught it due to my rambling...this 30moa rail...is this going to effect me getting a 50 yard zero? My optic (vortex copperhead) says to zero at 50. Do i need to position my scope a certain way, meaning more forward or more towards the rear, to achieve this zero? I guess i dont fully understand the slanted rail. To dumb it down, should i get the 0moa rail from ruger?
 

Vamike9

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Range update: I decided to lap my barrel a bit more to see if I could reduce flyers. I used JP Bore paste and JP bore shine for about 100 strokes each.

Results: good and bad. The good is that I reduced flyers at 50 yards with CCI Standard Velocity by a fair amount. In fact it's shooting about as well as FGM Target and FGM UltraMatch. Average 5 shot group of .5-.6" which is great. 15 shots string had avg of 1047fps, SD of 11.4 and ES of 35. Safely subsonic and consistent. It ran GREAT when squeaky clean putting up a .5" 10 shot ragged circular hole, but as it fouls in, it speeds up just enough to start going 50/50 super/subsonic.
View attachment 6939533
View attachment 6939536
However the bad is something I didn't expect/think about: I speed up the barrel by about 20fps. The Federal Target ammo that was an average of 1108 with SD of 10 is now 1126 with SD of 11.2 and eat of 36, which is juusst over the speed of sound which is causing accuracy to degrade at ranges past 50.
View attachment 6939534
View attachment 6939535

Anyone know of a good way to slow down a barrel?? I really never thought I'd ever be asking that question....
I've seen certain ammo only start shining past 100yds, like Fed HV Match. Very tight groups out @200yds for me.
50ud groups were not so great though.
 

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Sorry one other thing, i asked this before but dont think anyone caught it due to my rambling...this 30moa rail...is this going to effect me getting a 50 yard zero? My optic (vortex copperhead) says to zero at 50. Do i need to position my scope a certain way, meaning more forward or more towards the rear, to achieve this zero? I guess i dont fully understand the slanted rail. To dumb it down, should i get the 0moa rail from ruger?
You should have no problem at all getting a 50-yard zero.

The purpose of the slanted rail is to allow the scope to "dial" to much longer range than would be possible with a flat rail. Visualize it this way: your scope is brand-new out of the box; the reticles are centered in the tube. Mounted on a flat rail, the line of sight through the scope is roughly parallel to the bore. In this "parallel" condition, you have to dial in some "up" to have the bullet intersect the line of sight at the desired zero range.

Mounting the new-out-out-of-the-box scope on the 30-MOA rail adds 30 MOA of elevation (roughly 15" at 50 yards or 31.5" at 100 yards) without touching the elevation turret. You will probably have to dial in some amount of "down" to achieve your 50-yard zero. This will allow more "up" to be dialed for long range. For example, with CCI Standard Velocity ammo and a 50-yard zero, you need add somewhere around 45 MOA or 13 mil of "up" to put crosshairs on and hit a target at 300 yards. Your scope is not going to have anywhere near enough elevation range to do that without the 30-MOA rail.

Sure, you can shoot Thunderbolt ammo out of your rifle. Just don't expect it to group better than a couple of inches at 50 yards or three times that at 100.

Hope this helps.
 

straightshooter1

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Thanks for the insight. I assumed it would give a slight increase to MV just like a centerfire round would. Still looking for someone with some actual proof and numbers.
Will, if you want to look at some "actual proof" here's the spreadsheet data I've compiled that I drew my comments from:





PS: too bad I can't attach the spreadsheet
 

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Noobshooter86

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You should have no problem at all getting a 50-yard zero.

The purpose of the slanted rail is to allow the scope to "dial" to much longer range than would be possible with a flat rail. Visualize it this way: your scope is brand-new out of the box; the reticles are centered in the tube. Mounted on a flat rail, the line of sight through the scope is roughly parallel to the bore. In this "parallel" condition, you have to dial in some "up" to have the bullet intersect the line of sight at the desired zero range.

Mounting the new-out-out-of-the-box scope on the 30-MOA rail adds 30 MOA of elevation (roughly 15" at 50 yards or 31.5" at 100 yards) without touching the elevation turret. You will probably have to dial in some amount of "down" to achieve your 50-yard zero. This will allow more "up" to be dialed for long range. For example, with CCI Standard Velocity ammo and a 50-yard zero, you need add somewhere around 45 MOA or 13 mil of "up" to put crosshairs on and hit a target at 300 yards. Your scope is not going to have anywhere near enough elevation range to do that without the 30-MOA rail.

Sure, you can shoot Thunderbolt ammo out of your rifle. Just don't expect it to group better than a couple of inches at 50 yards or three times that at 100.

Hope this helps.
Absolutely that helps. Thankyou for explaining that to me. I follow what you're saying now...

As for the thunderbolt, wow... I know its cruddy ammo but a couple inches at 50, that could be a miss on a soda can at that range. I have some federal "target grade performance" also, but guessing thats the thunderbolt grade of federal brand ammo...it was cheap, i think $20 for 325 rounds. Ive been reading alot about the ammo you guys have been using...any recommendations on a mid level decent performer that wont break the bank?
Thanks again for the great advice.
 

Vamike9

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I'm getting 65moa with Federal HV Match with consistant hits at 300yds.
I much prefer mil, but it's a deploy MOA reticle on my Bushnell Engage 30mm version, which is actually a nice optic.
Much better clarity than my SWFA 10x and it seems to track well to my surprise.
 

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Im gonna go out on a limb here, hopefully this iant where i get bashed on, lol, but has anyone ran thunderbolt thru their rprf?
I've run tests of a very wide range of ammo from various guns with various barrel lengths. My data has shown ALL Remington 22 LR ammo to the the worst of all the brands I've tested. And Thunderbolt was the worst of the Remington's 22 LR. Bases on my experience of firing a brick of them, I wouldn't recommend Thunderbolt ammo to anyone for any reason. One of the nastiest things Thunderbolts did in my guns was to lead the barrels up badly. In some cases, to the point I could hardly get a cleaning rod down the barrel. I was going to finish off that brick of Thunderbolts anyway, so I found solution for getting that lead out of the barrels . . . by finishing off with firing 10 rounds of jacketed bullets. Then cleaning wasn't so bad.
 

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Absolutely that helps. Thankyou for explaining that to me. I follow what you're saying now...

As for the thunderbolt, wow... I know its cruddy ammo but a couple inches at 50, that could be a miss on a soda can at that range. I have some federal "target grade performance" also, but guessing thats the thunderbolt grade of federal brand ammo...it was cheap, i think $20 for 325 rounds. Ive been reading alot about the ammo you guys have been using...any recommendations on a mid level decent performer that wont break the bank?
Thanks again for the great advice.
Get any of Federal's bulk ammo. Their black box "Field Pack" has done quite well in my tests. . . . and way better than Thunderbolt
 
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Subwrx300

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Absolutely that helps. Thankyou for explaining that to me. I follow what you're saying now...

As for the thunderbolt, wow... I know its cruddy ammo but a couple inches at 50, that could be a miss on a soda can at that range. I have some federal "target grade performance" also, but guessing thats the thunderbolt grade of federal brand ammo...it was cheap, i think $20 for 325 rounds. Ive been reading alot about the ammo you guys have been using...any recommendations on a mid level decent performer that wont break the bank?
Thanks again for the great advice.
CCI Standard velocity 5000 rounds for 250 https://www.targetsportsusa.com/cci-standard-velocity-22-long-rifle-ammo-40-grain-lead-round-nose-0035-p-884.aspx

Federal Gold Medal Target .08¢ per round or less
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/953268932/federal-premium-gold-medal-target-ammunition-22-long-rifle-40-grain-lead-round-nose

SK Standard Plus .10¢ per round or less
https://www.targetsportsusa.com/sk-standard-plus-22-lr-ammo-40-grain-lrn-p-53529.aspx
 
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Subwrx300

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Thank you 👍👍
Before you buy "bulk" find a store near you to buy 5-6 boxes each and be sure to ask the store if they have a case of it.

Go shoot it and if it shoots well, buy THE SAME LOT all that you can get or afford (whichever is greater). Rimfire ammo is notoriously fickle lot to lot.

If you order from website (target sports USA is good site) call them and see if they can send you a box or two from a few lots. Then call back and get as much as you can of the same lot.
 

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Thankyou for the heads up. I havent seen the field pack, but will definitely look after the holiday. Have you tested the ammo that i have? The target grade?
I couldn't find where you listed the ammo you have. Which target grade ammo do you have?

If you're talking about Federal . . . it does quite well and is at the top at whatever grade level of ammo you compare it to.
 
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Subwrx300

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I couldn't find where you listed the ammo you have. Which target grade ammo do you have?
I think he is referring to Federal AutoMatch. I've shot it in my rifle and if you look at my initial review target, I didn't even bother measuring groups. It shot maybe 1-1.5" at 50 and 2.5-3" at 100. Not great. Several subsonic then super then sub then super. It's inconsistent to say the least. Well my lots are anyway.

It is good for 22 pistol though and maybe in an auto loader where velocity will be slightly lower. Too fast for longer ranges.
 

Noobshooter86

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Before you buy "bulk" find a store near you to buy 5-6 boxes each and be sure to ask the store if they have a case of it.

Go shoot it and if it shoots well, buy THE SAME LOT all that you can get or afford (whichever is greater). Rimfire ammo is notoriously fickle lot to lot.

If you order from website (target sports USA is good site) call them and see if they can send you a box or two from a few lots. Then call back and get as much as you can of the same lot.
Will do man. Thank you for the advice.
What a wealth of knowledge ive stumbled upon...you guys ar awesome
 

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I think he is referring to Federal AutoMatch. I've shot it in my rifle and if you look at my initial review target, I didn't even bother measuring groups. It shot maybe 1-1.5" at 50 and 2.5-3" at 100. Not great. Several subsonic then super then sub then super. It's inconsistent to say the least. Well my lots are anyway.

It is good for 22 pistol though and maybe in an auto loader where velocity will be slightly lower. Too fast for longer ranges.
If it's AutoMatch, then it's just OK; quite good for just plinking. . . IMHO. I've had some batches that have shot surprisingly well. But, as you've pointed out. . . it really depends on the lot.
 

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I think he is referring to Federal AutoMatch. I've shot it in my rifle and if you look at my initial review target, I didn't even bother measuring groups. It shot maybe 1-1.5" at 50 and 2.5-3" at 100. Not great. Several subsonic then super then sub then super. It's inconsistent to say the least. Well my lots are anyway.

It is good for 22 pistol though and maybe in an auto loader where velocity will be slightly lower. Too fast for longer ranges.
It is auto match. Ughh...not too optimistic now
 

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AutoMatch is good value for plinking. But it's NOT good "Target" or "Match" ammo in anyway shape or form. It's kinda a misnomber to have "Match" as part of its name.
Hmm...is there any ammo out there that comes in a bulk pack that you guys WOULD recommend? Im not even sure what good match ammo costs these days..ive honestly never even looked. I could be saying all this and be way off base...im just looking for reasonably accurate ammo that i can buy a big box of to spend a good day at the range, and not spend a hundo to do it.
 

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Will, if you want to look at some "actual proof" here's the spreadsheet data I've compiled that I drew my comments from:





PS: too bad I can't attach the spreadsheet
Ive have this downloaded already. Really great stuff bro. I’d still like to see results for this rifle with that barrel
 

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Hmm...is there any ammo out there that comes in a bulk pack that you guys WOULD recommend? Im not even sure what good match ammo costs these days..ive honestly never even looked. I could be saying all this and be way off base...im just looking for reasonably accurate ammo that i can buy a big box of to spend a good day at the range, and not spend a hundo to do it.
Asked and answered already.

CCI Standard Velocity is .05¢ per round or so. Federal AutoMatch is .05¢ per round or so.
They are same price per round...

See below: same cost per bullet.
Screenshot_20180902-233924.pngScreenshot_20180902-233858.png
 
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DownhillFromHere

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Hmm...is there any ammo out there that comes in a bulk pack that you guys WOULD recommend? Im not even sure what good match ammo costs these days..ive honestly never even looked. I could be saying all this and be way off base...im just looking for reasonably accurate ammo that i can buy a big box of to spend a good day at the range, and not spend a hundo to do it.
No bucket o' bullets is going to provide what serious rimfire shooters consider "acceptable" accuracy. The "standard" for cheap decent ammo is CCI Standard Velocity, which is relatively easy to find in bricks of 500 (10 50-round boxes, each box separating the rounds in a plastic tray). At big-box sporting goods stores, you'll probably spend $3.50-$4.00 per box of 50 for it. You can also find it in 100-round plastic boxes. If you can find it on sale, it's cheaper. Shipping often eats up on-line savings unless you buy thousands of rounds.

But the simple answer to your question of "what is a good, cheap kind of ammo" is quite safely answered, "CCI Standard Velocity." Your individual rifle may do quite well with any of the brads mentioned in this thread, but CCI SV is well-recognized and respected.

If all you're going to do is shoot soda cans at 25 yards, a bucket o' bullets is fine. But cheap $#!^ is still $#!^ and is more likely to gum up your rifle, as mentioned earlier. You asked how much the really good match ammo costs - in big box stores like Cabella's that actually carry it, you can spend $15-$25 per box of 50. But running Eley Ten-X in an RPRim is like running 100+-octane racing fuel in a V-6 Mustang. It will do better than normal gasoline, but the car simply cannot utilize the fuel's capability.

Listen, just read through this forum. A lot of your questions are addressed.
 

straightshooter1

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Ive have this downloaded already. Really great stuff bro. I’d still like to see results for this rifle with that barrel
I'm really curious myself as I contemplate swapping to a match barrel and looking at the difference between a Shaw and GM barrel for this rifle. But, based on my collection of data, I'm leaning towards the Shaw a lot because of this issue.
 
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straightshooter1

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Asked and answered already.

CCI Standard Velocity is .05¢ per round or so. Federal AutoMatch is .05¢ per round or so.
They are same price per round...
+1 on this recommendation.

CCI SV is the best bang for the buck, IMHO. You can find some really good deals on it and I don't know how anyone can argue with 5 cents per round with the kind of outstanding consistency and accuracy one gets with it.
 
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Noobshooter86

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+1 on this recommendation.

CCI SV is the best bang for the buck, IMHO. You can find some really good deals on it and I don't know how anyone can argue with 5 cents per round with the kind of outstanding consistency and accuracy one gets with it.
My apologies guys, sorry to ask the same question multiple times. Im getting ovrrerwhelmed with awesome info. I appreciate you all sharing your knowledge with me, that i know took you all a long time to figure out. And no disrespect meant at all toward the serious precision shooters here. You guys have been very helpful 👍👍
 

Subwrx300

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Just in case anyone needed a reason to buy a new barrel for their RPR...

ER Shaw is running a 10% off promo with the code "LD10" at checkout. New barrel shipped for $246.96. I just paid for mine so that would make 3 left in stock.

😁 Couldn't resist the idea of tighter groups and possibly better SD. If it holds better than a .5" average at 50 and 1" at 100, that's a 50% increase in precision at extended range over the factory barrel with about a 1000 rounds through it. Here's to hoping!
 

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I've been pleading with ER Shaw to make a RPR Mach2 barrel. :sneaky:
 
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Frankr

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FYI - there was a post over on RFC were a guy has talked to whistle pig into making some lightweight barrels if he can get 10 guys in one it.

I’m in for one for my boy.

Not affiliated with it other than I want one for my kid.

Price was “in line with CZ 455 barrels” - looked and they range between 172.00-198.00.


Given how light his barrels are it should shave considerable weight off the rifle
 

TerminalLance0341

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Hey guys, new to the long range rimfire game and picked up a RPRim as a starter rifle. I figured even if I had to throw a barrel on it, I'd still come out cheaper than building a CZ. So far I'm liking the rifle, but haven't shot it much(about 100 rounds total). CCI SV's did ok at 50, but opened up more than I would have liked at 100. I had a few minutes on Saturday to shoot a 5 shot group at 50 with Aguila Pistol Match and they did better than the CCI's. The only thing I've done to the rifle was to Flitz the bore with a bore mop. I might mess around with bedding or mill out a new chassis if I get some free time at work.
 

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Just in case anyone needed a reason to buy a new barrel for their RPR...

ER Shaw is running a 10% off promo with the code "LD10" at checkout. New barrel shipped for $246.96. I just paid for mine so that would make 3 left in stock.

😁 Couldn't resist the idea of tighter groups and possibly better SD. If it holds better than a .5" average at 50 and 1" at 100, that's a 50% increase in precision at extended range over the factory barrel with about a 1000 rounds through it. Here's to hoping!
I just ordered one also! Thanks for the heads up. Should be a good shooter I’m hoping. Just need a timney 2 stage now
 
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Prcshooter

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So the rings i have are .6875 if i measured right...from center of ring to where it would sit at the top of the rail. Im thinking with a 44mm its not going to clear. I tried using the ring calculator, but i do not know the length of the rail to calculate what the drop is, factoring in the 30moa slant. This may be an easier question... Is anyone running a 44mm with a 1" tube? If so what height rings are you using? Im looking to keep the glass as low as possible and still be able to get a 50 yard zero.

I am planning on getting the 0moa mount from ruger, if what i have read from you all is right, that should work better for what type of shooting i will be doing. 100 yards max, probably between 50-75 (i have no ability to stretch out any further at my home range).
I have owned the the Ruger for awhile now and have competed in 4 practical rim fire challenges witch ranges from 30 yrdsto300 yards. That being said part of my practice is no your limits targets which I find great for target acquisition and speed. I have the original 30 moa and I don’t see any reason you would need to change the 30 moa rail. Just my opinion.
 
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Subwrx300

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I have owned the the Ruger for awhile now and have competed in 4 practical rim fire challenges witch ranges from 30 yrdsto300 yards. That being said part of my practice is no your limits targets which I find great for target acquisition and speed. I have the original 30 moa and I don’t see any reason you would need to change the 30 moa rail. Just my opinion.
Completely agree in most cases, but his scope has only 60MOA total vertical adjustment to begin with.

Assuming zeroing near middle to just above center, he is going to be REEEALLLY close to the top of the travel when zeroed. And if his mount is off left to right, the erector may hit the side walls well before he gets to zero. So in this case, without changing scopes it MIGHT need a different base to allow zeroing the scope at 40-50yds.

Had a similar issue with a Nikon Buckmaster on my 17HMR and a 20MOA base: it literally just zeros at 100 with about 5 moa to spare but I cannot dial left more than 3 moa from zero without bumping the wall of scope body. Problem disappears at 150-175 because I gain more room as tube gets wider.