Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Expert684

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I have two Gen 1 RPR's, running the Seekins 15". I love them , still had to run a riser under my scope to clear it. Also running two Magpul PRS stocks gen 3. Made a more stable platform for me to shoot. :p (y)
 
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LongRangeLefty

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Guys I am looking to replace my handguard on my RPR. I am leanining hard to a 15” Seekins for my 26” 6.5 Creedmoor any suggestions?
I have the Paper City Firearms handguard. Nice and rigid and very comfortable. No need to remove the barrel nut too
 

J-Fonz

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Hello J-Fonz, how is the Anarchy round bolt knob working out for you? Do you find it slippery in the rain or when your hands get sweaty?
I like it. Feels like my SRS and AX. Haven’t been in the rain with it but I sweat profusely and haven’t had any issues.
 

Lambored24thid

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Morning everyone. Name is cliff. I recently purchased an rpr 338lm I have noticed some oddness to it. First glance the fore grip is crooked. And it seems the brake is out of time. Anyone else have these issues? I'll take pics after work.
 

LongRangeLefty

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Morning everyone. Name is cliff. I recently purchased an rpr 338lm I have noticed some oddness to it. First glance the fore grip is crooked. And it seems the brake is out of time. Anyone else have these issues? I'll take pics after work.
These issues are not new at all. There have been several who have had the same problem. First just try taking them off and reinstalling.

Some have had trouble removing brakes cranked on from Ruger because the nut is screwed on as tight as it can go, and then same with the brake. For this you can put the rifle in a vise. Then wrap masking tape around a screwdriver to prevent scratching. Insert the screw driver through the ports on the muzzle brake. Give the handle of the screwdriver a couple good taps with a hammer and it should come off no problem
 
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PatMiles

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Any of you gents running a Jard trigger? I'm currently using a Timney which I am happy with but always looking. Any other RPR triggers out there?
 

Lambored24thid

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These issues are not new at all. There have been several who have had the same problem. First just try taking them off and reinstalling.

Some have had trouble removing brakes cranked on from Ruger because the nut is screwed on as tight as it can go, and then same with the brake. For this you can put the rifle in a vise. Then wrap masking tape around a screwdriver to prevent scratching. Insert the screw driver through the ports on the muzzle brake. Give the handle of the screwdriver a couple good taps with a hammer and it should come off no problem
Thank you, that was my first post. And dang it if I would have waited a half hour longer I would have heard Frank talking about these issues :/ so that's what I did. I broke it all down and rebuilt it tonight. Hoping to start running rounds for break in tomorrow.
 

treillw

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Is the Timney two stage trigger the only aftermarket trigger made for the RPR? I'm not too crazy about the two stage. Wish it was just a normal trigger with a nice light pull. Anybody else make a good one?

I wish Bix n andy made one! They are awesome triggers.
 

Carlos Danger

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Is the Timney two stage trigger the only aftermarket trigger made for the RPR? I'm not too crazy about the two stage. Wish it was just a normal trigger with a nice light pull. Anybody else make a good one?

I wish Bix n andy made one! They are awesome triggers.
I removed my spring and am pretty happy with the result. Cost: $0.00, time: 12 minutes.
 

LongRangeLefty

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I just turned my pull weight all the way down and left it. The RPR is actually the first rifle where I haven’t replaced or modified the factory trigger
 
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treillw

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Does anyone make a magazine for the RPR that you can close the bolt when the mag is empty? I single feed bullets a lot of the time at the range and it's a pain with the factory mag.
 

LongRangeLefty

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Does anyone make a magazine for the RPR that you can close the bolt when the mag is empty? I single feed bullets a lot of the time at the range and it's a pain with the factory mag.
You can use a dremel to buzz the bolt stop off of the mag (which I have done to all of mine). There are a couple of mags that fit the RPR that don’t have a bolt stop but I don’t own or have used any.

You can see here where the corner of the bolt stop has been ground down

F0BCDFB6-8363-44DD-A229-70AE0D28C360.jpeg
 
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treillw

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What does removing the trigger spring actually do? Just curious what I'd be modifying. Does it make the trigger less safe? I assume ruger has it in there for a reason. :)
 

straightshooter1

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What does removing the trigger spring actually do?
It removed all the spring tension on the trigger leaving a pull of a little less than 1#.

Just curious what I'd be modifying. Does it make the trigger less safe?
It's only "less safe" to the extent that it results is a very light pull. For example, such a light pull would be quite a hazard to any loaded rifle that's being carried around in the woods and brush.

I assume ruger has it in there for a reason. :)
It's there so there's an ability to vary the spring tension on the trigger to suit various people's preferences. With the spring in there, there a limit how low the tension can go. And the very lowest is when the spring isn't there at all.
 
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PracticalTactical

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I just turned my pull weight all the way down and left it. The RPR is actually the first rifle where I haven’t replaced or modified the factory trigger
I've had 2 RPRs and the trigger on the first one wasn't too bad, but the second one was brutal.

It took so much force sometimes to pull the blade back that I almost slapped the trigger once I got there.

Pulling the trigger delicately was certainly a challenge.... not every time but about a third of the time.

That blade was just sticky and I would much prefer they did not have it.

I replaced it with a Timney… and to be honest... the Timney is much better than the original trigger, but still nothing to brag about.
 

LongRangeLefty

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^ Well that I definitely would have replaced too. I think if I found a used Timney on eBay or something I might try it. I’ve had a couple before and really like them. Basically the cost would have to come down for it to be worth it to me at this point
 

Carlos Danger

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What does removing the trigger spring actually do? Just curious what I'd be modifying. Does it make the trigger less safe? I assume ruger has it in there for a reason. :)
The pull weight is down where I like it now. I've checked the functionality and safety of the trigger and everything functions normally.
 

straightshooter1

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I've had 2 RPRs and the trigger on the first one wasn't too bad, but the second one was brutal.

It took so much force sometimes to pull the blade back that I almost slapped the trigger once I got there.

Pulling the trigger delicately was certainly a challenge.... not every time but about a third of the time.

That blade was just sticky and I would much prefer they did not have it.
Apparently there was something very wrong with that blade to make it function that way. None of my Rugers that have these trigger blades have had anything like this issue. I don't think this kind of thing was something Ruger had in mind. I would have contacted Ruger and have them replace the trigger assembly.

On my RPR, I've got close to 5,000 firing now plus a lot of dry firing and 99.9% of that has been without the trigger adjustment spring. It has been functioning very, very well and haven't had a single issue with. I really like feel of the 12-14 oz of pull I get with the spring removed.
 

ChrisH56

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Does anyone make a magazine for the RPR that you can close the bolt when the mag is empty? I single feed bullets a lot of the time at the range and it's a pain with the factory mag.
You can also put a piece of 3/4 inch (or 1 inch, I can't remember which size) PVC pipe on top of the magazine follower allowing single loading.3BkAAAAAAAA1.jpg3RkAAAAAAAA1.jpg
 

ditter

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I did the trigger pull adjustment spring removal, but it didn't do anything. It actually made things worse, as the trigger release (blade safety) spring would get out of its place and not reset when cycling the bolt. Also taking out the trigger pull adjustment spring makes it very difficult to put back in. The real problem with my gritty and spongy trigger had more to do with the dirty and and poorly forged trigger housing.

I wound up fully disassembling my trigger completely and basically doing a 25 cent trigger job. Every pin, spring and clip, including the safety. Its about 20 pieces. All you need is a flat head screwdriver and a roll pin punch. Two issues: 1. There was so much anti rust or grease/goop inside the trigger that it became gummy and clogged. Even blasting the housing with brake cleaner wont get rid of it because there is no way to drain it. I wound up cleaning the empty housing out with brake cleaner and scooping the goop out with q-tips, toothpicks and dental picks. Finally it was clean. Did the same with all the other parts.

The second issue was the rough forging of the internal parts, especially the inside of the trigger housing. The trigger itself is hardened steel with a polished finish. but the internal housing is very rough and bumpy. I took out the dremel and hit the whole housing with a polishing wheel and some metal polish to smooth everything out. I hit the inside walls of the trigger housing with the brass wire wheel and smoothed and shined it. Reassembled everything and put in some M-Pro7 oil and Tetra grease in the right spots Its like night and day. Smooth as glass and a much crisper and clean break. I've run about 200 rounds through it and it will rival a Timney trigger (saving me 215 bucks). Not that the Ruger factory trigger is that bad to begin with. I did a quick job of it because I was going to the range the next day, but I could do a more thorough job next time. Total time for the first time was about an hour. I could do it the next time in 20 minutes.
 

olive drab

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Has anyone swapped in a stainless proof research 308 barrel? What are you thoughts? I was thinking about having craddock make a bartlein 24" but the 20" proof has a great prodeal price.
 

treillw

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So I just yanked the trigger spring out following the instructions on that video. When I cock the bolt, it doesn't always reset the trigger. Any ideas? If open and close the bolt aggressively, it seems to cock every time.

Just lifting the bolt handle to dry fire doesn't work anymore.
 

Carlos Danger

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So I just yanked the trigger spring out following the instructions on that video. When I cock the bolt, it doesn't always reset the trigger. Any ideas? If open and close the bolt aggressively, it seems to cock every time.

Just lifting the bolt handle to dry fire doesn't work anymore.
I just ran over 90 rounds through it a couple hours ago. No issues of any kind. Can't speak to dry firing.
 

flyfisher117

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Curious everyone's thoughts. My 6.5 RPR shoots best with a few rounds down the tube. Not a clean bore but my groups shrink significantly with a warm barrel. I'm talking maybe MOA first 10 shot group down to .5 MOA after shooting 20 or so rounds. Why is this?
 

ditter

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So I just yanked the trigger spring out following the instructions on that video. When I cock the bolt, it doesn't always reset the trigger. Any ideas? If open and close the bolt aggressively, it seems to cock every time.

Just lifting the bolt handle to dry fire doesn't work anymore.
I had the same issue. (See my post above). The trigger pull adjustment spring needs to be put back in. But it is very difficult to get the trigger back in. That is what resets the trigger properly.
 

Pge

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Which is the more accurate? Ruger Precision rifle 6.5 PRC or the Ruger Hawkeye long distance 6.5 PRC? I want something long-range in this caliber with Ruger not sure which of these I should get for hunting. The Hawkeye Long Dist TARGET rifle has the better barrel...but why call it TARGET? Is that not fur hunting, outdoor weather conditions?

.308 with 24" barrel?? My .308 with 20" shoots just fine and dandy at 1000
 

treillw

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I had the same issue. (See my post above). The trigger pull adjustment spring needs to be put back in. But it is very difficult to get the trigger back in. That is what resets the trigger properly.
Anyone else have the same problem as us?
 

Carlos Danger

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I had the same issue. (See my post above). The trigger pull adjustment spring needs to be put back in. But it is very difficult to get the trigger back in. That is what resets the trigger properly.
I'm not sure why it's not working for you. I've had zero issues with this mod so far.
 

ditter

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I can definitely see how the removal of the spring would cause the problem. The spring serves two purposes. The spring places tension on the trigger which affects the pull before firing. But after firing, the same spring resets the trigger when the bolt is cycled. If there is no spring tension to force the trigger back, the trigger can either remain in the fired position or float between the two positions. Now, how it works flawlessly without the spring is left to smarter people than me.

I'm no gunsmith, but when I disassembled the trigger, it was pretty clear. When I put my spring back in, I just clipped one coil and it lightened it perfectly and I still have the ability to adjust it. I would say that the better mod is to clip a coil and replace the spring back inside. But beware that taking the spring out makes it very difficult to put the trigger back in afterward. I saw the youtube video and the guy says, "if you want to put the spring in, just do this in reverse." But it is not that easy. I think the trigger housing was designed to be assembled with the trigger going in first, not last.
 

straightshooter1

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Hmmm??? It's kind of a mystery to me why some would have such difficulty in getting the trigger back in. It's been a couple years now since I made this mod to my RPR (removing the spring all together) and at the time it just seemed easy enough. In fact, I had removed and replaced the trigger several times as I experimented then with putting different springs in to see the effects (e.g. using a ball point pen spring). Now, with nearly 5,000 firings without any spring, I haven't had a single issue with the trigger . . . . other than it needing a little cleaning up a couple times to keep it running smooth.

As far as the trigger resetting, my trigger has been resetting just fine without the spring. I haven't had any difference in my trigger from when the spring was in it, as in having it "float" or stay in the fired position. So, I don't see any relationship between the trigger reset and the trigger adjustment spring. If there is a problem with the reset, it seems to me that something else isn't working properly due to the disassembly and reassembly process for removing the spring???

Note, that since I did the same mod with my RPRR, which has essentially the same trigger, it too operates just as with my RPR's trigger and I haven't had any issues with it either.
 
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LongRangeLefty

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Finally got one of those little gadgets that mounts my phone to my spotting scope and had to share. A little shaky cause it was on the bench I was using. 700, 800 and 1000 yard hits with the RPR with 190 SMK 🤘

 
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LongRangeLefty

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This was a really cheap $10 part I got just to try. There are several other models that are more expensive but I don’t know if they work any better
 

rlsmith1

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Anyone opened up their regular bolt head to a magnum face? Or been able to get a magnum bolt from Ruger?
 

8pointer

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Curious everyone's thoughts. My 6.5 RPR shoots best with a few rounds down the tube. Not a clean bore but my groups shrink significantly with a warm barrel. I'm talking maybe MOA first 10 shot group down to .5 MOA after shooting 20 or so rounds. Why is this?
This is too funny. Not only does my RPR behave the same, but I just got back from fishing the Elk, Oldman, St.Marys and Crowsnest.
 
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