Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Forward543

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I dropped my bolt and dented the lug that contains the extractor. I polished out to where it functions, but now its not 100% on extraction. Anyone know where i can get a new bolt? Preferably a small firing pin.
Thanks
 

Forward543

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I called ruger. They will replace the bolt, but i need to send in the rifle with the original barrel. They are sending a new extractor, spring, and ball. Hopefully that fixes it.
I had to polish out the raceway and the extractor rib to get it to not stick open. I fear i took too much, as now if i dont cycle the bolt moderatly fast, it drops the round on the mag below.
 
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CV_Ag

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Anybody lighten up the spring in the bolt release? Do you replace it or clip a coil or two?
Way too stiff for one hand release.
If you’re seriously having to use two hands to push the bolt release then there’s a problem with the fit/function and not the spring. I doubt anyone makes an aftermarket spring so if it’s just that stiff and you’ve eliminated rough edges or poor fitment I’d just clip it.
 

acudaowner

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I love my rpr it's bone stock at present 308 20'' barrel 1/10 twist . I have had not reason to change anything yet in future may get a better barrel but other wise everything is nice . I guess it could be better, but have only ever seen 1 other in 6.5 . Still has a lot of shooting in it which is what i wanted think we put 5000 rounds through it so far , furthest distance is only 600 yards , But cant hardly wait to get to a longer range .
 
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spatrick02

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My seekins will not tighten down on the rail. It will on a seekins rail and it will on my ar rail, but on my rpr, no matter how tight the screws are, the mount will still slide forward and backward a small amount.
 

03psd

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My seekins will not tighten down on the rail. It will on a seekins rail and it will on my ar rail, but on my rpr, no matter how tight the screws are, the mount will still slide forward and backward a small amount.
I would bet your pic rail on your RPR is out of spec. Make sure the pic rail itself is mounted tight to the top of the receiver. Mine was loose from the factory. There are 4 machine screws. There are reports of the pic rails being less then the 20 MOA as advertised. I started a thread on this a couple weeks ago here and there’s some great info on how to measure yours to see if it’s correct. If your rail is machined too narrow then that’s another issue only fixable by replacement. Thankfully Ruger will take care of you and you can probably just ship the rail back instead of the whole rifle. If mine was bad I probably woukd replace it with an aftermarket upgrade then the factory piece but that’s just my opinion. Since my rail is in spec and has the proper taper I am using in. Let us know what you figure out.
 

spatrick02

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I would bet your pic rail on your RPR is out of spec. Make sure the pic rail itself is mounted tight to the top of the receiver. Mine was loose from the factory. There are 4 machine screws. There are reports of the pic rails being less then the 20 MOA as advertised. I started a thread on this a couple weeks ago here and there’s some great info on how to measure yours to see if it’s correct. If your rail is machined too narrow then that’s another issue only fixable by replacement. Thankfully Ruger will take care of you and you can probably just ship the rail back instead of the whole rifle. If mine was bad I probably woukd replace it with an aftermarket upgrade then the factory piece but that’s just my opinion. Since my rail is in spec and has the proper taper I am using in. Let us know what you figure out.


Okay, kind of what I was thinking. I have heard the reports of the rail not being a true 20 but not that they have been to thin. Makes sense that it won't tighten up. I'll have to measure it but I'll probably just replace it. Thank you for the input. I appreciate it.
 

Hardpan

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Okay, kind of what I was thinking. I have heard the reports of the rail not being a true 20 but not that they have been to thin. Makes sense that it won't tighten up. I'll have to measure it but I'll probably just replace it. Thank you for the input. I appreciate it.
It’s not a true 20 moa, mine wasn’t anyway. Don’t know the exact measure of angle but it’s less. It may have to do with the upper mount. When I bought a 40 moa rail and installed it I only got 6 more mils of elevation which roughly equates to 20 moa. This tells me the plane of the upper that the rail mounts to may not be level. Make sure you take it off, clean the crap under it and blue loctite the 8-40 screws to 28in lbs.
 
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Hardpan

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What was your trigger pull out of the box? Mine breaks @ 2.4lbs. I don't know if that's as light as it will go and havn't really looked into adjusting it.
I can tell you mine was around 3 lbs. Gritty and had a lot of creep. Dropped in a timney 2 stage flat and never looked back. Awesome trigger. I did keep the factory one as a back up just in case the timney fails. My Timney is 8 oz first stage and around 14-15 oz second stage.
 
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03psd

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I can tell you mine was around 3 lbs. Gritty and had a lot of creep. Dropped in a timney 2 stage flat and never looked back. Awesome trigger. I did keep the factory one as a back up just in case the timney fails. My Timney is 8 oz first stage and around 14-15 oz second stage.
I installed the Timney flat as well and agree it’s a huge upgrade from stock. I haven’t played with the adjustments on it yet but think it’s time I do. Any pointers? I’ve never adjusted any of my own triggers.
 

Hardpan

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I installed the Timney flat as well and agree it’s a huge upgrade from stock. I haven’t played with the adjustments on it yet but think it’s time I do. Any pointers? I’ve never adjusted any of my own triggers.
I left mine as is from timney. There are instructions online at the timney website on how you can adjust your pull weight for the 2nd stage, I believe it’s the rear lower screw. I personally feel 1.5 lbs total weight is the lightest I’d go. If I use a pull weight less than that I tend to get less than ideal shot placements due to improper finger placement and almost feeling like I slapped the trigger due to the lack of weight to pull before I need to shoot the round off.
 

Hardpan

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Thanks, have a Spuhr 4006 laying around from a previous rifle and was considering an RPR. Might have to count the RPR out though.
You can always sell or find a trade for the mount, it being a 34mm main tube mount shouldn’t be too hard to find another person that would want it. It being a spuhr it won’t lose much of its value either.
 

Gd33333

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Jan 19, 2019
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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion thread
So pretty new to the forum. I just got a gen3 rpr in 6.5 and looking to upgrade the bolt shroud. I really like the Anarchy Outdoors titanium shroud but wish it came in black to match the new nitride coated bolt on the gen3. Just wondering if I could get some feedback from you guys to see if there’s other options I’m missing. I know you can get the AO in black aluminum and same with LRI but like the idea of the heavier titanium shroud with tool. Thanks!
 

Hardpan

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So pretty new to the forum. I just got a gen3 rpr in 6.5 and looking to upgrade the bolt shroud. I really like the Anarchy Outdoors titanium shroud but wish it came in black to match the new nitride coated bolt on the gen3. Just wondering if I could get some feedback from you guys to see if there’s other options I’m missing. I know you can get the AO in black aluminum and same with LRI but like the idea of the heavier titanium shroud with tool. Thanks!
You can have it microslicked. I had my bolt fluted and microslicked and it runs way better than it did new out of the box.

DF5BD35E-81F5-410C-8D55-316AFA4F1799.jpeg
 

Hardpan

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Huh, never heard of it. I’ll have to look into that. Thanks!
I shipped mine to Andrew Delikat. I insured it for $500 because it didn’t want the bolt to get lost. If it did I would at least get something back. He did an amazing job and I highly recommend it. He can also flute your shroud to match your bolt flute if you go that route. His pricing is pretty cheap too.
C30302A1-1C16-4B9F-8252-5ECF97DE6EA5.jpeg
 
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Mikekm1

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Feb 19, 2019
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My Gen 1 hasn't given me any complaints. I did read that loading the bipod can cause the Samson handguard to become loose. Anyone run into this? I haven't shot with my new spike feet yet, so haven't been able to load the pod yet.
Got my Gen 3 6.5 this week. I didn't need to use it to loosen the handguard. It was delivered loose. Had to remove it and tighten the collar nut and re-assemble. At least the barrel nut's tight. Makes one wonder though.
 

bigjake83

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My gen 3 has the newer style rail and it to when it came from the factory seemed a bit loose had a lot of flex, took it off cleaned everything reinstalled it and torqued all the screws down with a little bit of blue loctite and I have had no issues whatsoever since, I also run the atlas bipod with spiked feet so I know I load the bipod pretty heavy and it's still hasn't caused any further issues.
 

Mikekm1

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My gen 3 has the newer style rail and it to when it came from the factory seemed a bit loose had a lot of flex, took it off cleaned everything reinstalled it and torqued all the screws down with a little bit of blue loctite and I have had no issues whatsoever since, I also run the atlas bipod with spiked feet so I know I load the bipod pretty heavy and it's still hasn't caused any further issues.
Good idea. I don't have my scope yet. Saving nickels for a Vortex PST II FFP 5-25x50 MOA. I should check this in advance and will do so. When I removed my handguard I was surprised at how much lubricant was slathered on the handguard bushing and bushing nut. Got to thinking about the mess that would have been if left unattended for a couple hundred rounds to cook it. Like you said, blue loctite after a lot of Hoppes.