Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

hstonebraker77

New Hide Member
Aug 27, 2018
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Not sure if there is a better place to post this, thought I would start here. Just bought a RPR 6.5 Creedmoor, purchased Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 EBR-2C MRAD Riflescope and looking for recommendations for mounting rings for this for shooting out to 1000/1200Yds. New to long range Percision and this will need to go from 100-1200 Yds. Thanks in advance for your help
 

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Dirty8404

Sergeant of the Hide
Apr 17, 2018
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You’ll want high rings at the least. X-high probably better. Don’t get crappy cheap ones. You have a 20MOA base on the rifle, just an FYI.

ARC, Nightforce ultralights, Badger. I have a set of Warnes but my next set will be ARC M10s. Some people like Seekins/vortex as well. I’d go with something lower priced for the PST personally. Stay away from vertically split rings.
 

Sharpe74

New Hide Member
Jun 21, 2018
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Here’s my little RPR. It’s chambered in 308. It’s one of the integrally suppressed versions from Machine Gun Tours/Witt Machine and Tool. Finally got the glass for it. I’m running a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25x50 EBR-2C Reticle (MOA) with Vortex Precision Matched rings. I did minor upgrades to the bolt. Replaced the bolt shroud with the Titanium shroud, replace the bolt handle and knob with the titanium version, and added a Catalyst Arms Mag release extension. Have not put too many rounds through it so I’m not sure if I will replace the trigger or not. So far I like the trigger.
IMG_0312.jpg IMG_0316.jpg IMG_0315.jpg IMG_0313.jpg
 
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hstonebraker77

New Hide Member
Aug 27, 2018
8
0
1
Here’s my little RPR. It’s chambered in 308. It’s one of the integrally suppressed versions from Machine Gun Tours/Witt Machine and Tool. Finally got the glass for it. I’m running a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25x50 EBR-2C Reticle (MOA) with Vortex Precision Matched rings. I did minor upgrades to the bolt. Replaced the bolt shroud with the Titanium shroud, replace the bolt handle and knob with the titanium version, and added a Catalyst Arms Mag release extension. Have not put too many rounds through it so I’m not sure if I will replace the trigger or not. So far I like the trigger.
View attachment 6941160 View attachment 6941162 View attachment 6941161 View attachment 6941164
Which height did you do on the rings? Looking to shoot 1000-1500 yds and need to make sure I will have enough adjusment in the MilRad version I just ordered.
 

Sharpe74

New Hide Member
Jun 21, 2018
16
2
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When I talked to Vortex and told them the rifle I have and scope I was fixing to order they said high rings would work best. So that's what I ordered. Precision Matched Rings — Height: 1.45 Inches
 
Apr 23, 2012
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Are any of you as big of a goofball as me and have the plastic tool that separates the firing pin and cocking piece pop off? I have been unable to get tool back in and probably made it worse but rotating the assembly and not sure how it was when I started. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate any help...
 
Apr 23, 2012
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Fixed it. For those that find yourself in the same predicament, this is what I did. I took the firing pin assy and slid the bolt handle onto it past the lug. Rotated the handle 90 degrees so the handle is locked on the lug. I used padded vice jaws and held the bolt handle facing down (the tail portion of the firing pin assy that sticks through the open slot in the shroud is up). I clamped on the tail that was sticking up with vice grip pliers and pulled on the pliers to compress the spring. Then I was able to slide the tool in, release the vice and pliers, take the bolt handle off, and re-assemble as usual.
 
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Pilotscrappy

Sergeant of the Hide
Jul 21, 2018
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Fixed it. For those that find yourself in the same predicament, this is what I did. I took the firing pin assy and slid the bolt handle onto it past the lug. Rotated the handle 90 degrees so the handle is locked on the lug. I used padded vice jaws and held the bolt handle facing down (the tail portion of the firing pin assy that sticks through the open slot in the shroud is up). I clamped on the tail that was sticking up with vice grip pliers and pulled on the pliers to compress the spring. Then I was able to slide the tool in, release the vice and pliers, take the bolt handle off, and re-assemble as usual.
I have done the same thing. Luckily I found a guy on YouTube that did it also and watched his vid on how to fix it. Lol I did this within the first 5 minutes after I brought the rifle home haha
 
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cuz

Private
Jul 6, 2017
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Which way do you transport your RPR to the range: Open, or Folded?

Just curious, because I need to pick up a soft case that it will fit in with the scope mounted. I like the idea of folding it so that it fits in the back of my vehicle without having to fold down a seat and have it extend into the passenger compartment.
 
Apr 23, 2012
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I have done the same thing. Luckily I found a guy on YouTube that did it also and watched his vid on how to fix it. Lol I did this within the first 5 minutes after I brought the rifle home haha
LOL, thanks for the reply. Nice to know I was not the only one. I need to work on my YouTube searches because I didn't find any, but after you mentioned it I looked again and I found one.
 

Pilotscrappy

Sergeant of the Hide
Jul 21, 2018
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I transport my RPR to the range in it's normal state open
I don't have the stock folded in. It just goes in my bag and I lay it down in the backseat
 

cuz

Private
Jul 6, 2017
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Folded! Didn’t want a huge case
Yeah, I ended up ordering a case that I hope will hold it when folded. Tough finding one tall enough. I’ve also switched from hard cases to soft. The hard sided just weighed too much when empty. I’ll keep them for flying, but not gonna haul them back and forth to the range anymore.
 
Aug 9, 2012
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New to the group. Going to be getting a RPR Gen2 in 6mm Creed. I got a smoking deal on it that I couldn't pass up. I have a few other 6.5 Creed's in other guns but this is my first RPR. I read alot of good they about the 6creed but was intending to rebarrel to a 6.5 Creed. Was not trying to get into another caliber but still may. Anyone is White Oak prefit? I have an AR 15 with a white oak barrel that is a laser. Any opinions?
 

Drewdemon

Online Training Member
Feb 20, 2017
150
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Anyone run into this; My questions to Burris support, "I have a Burris XTR ii 5-25X50 and I need to adjust the top turret down. I’ve read the manual several times but im not having any luck. I loosen the hex nuts, lifted the turret, set it back 2-5 clicks more, pushed the turret back down and tightened the hex screws. When I do this I can’t adjust the turret up again? It’s like it’s hitting the old zero stop. What else can I try? "

Their reply; "
Your Ruger precision rifle has an integrated 20moa rail. Given that the rings you are using are "high" , there may be a chance that the scope is sitting too high above the bore and with the addition of the 20moa cant, your scope may not have enough adjustment to zero at this distance.

From what you describe, the elevation turret is stuck between it's maxed point where the turret has no more adjustment and the zero stop only allowing the adjustment you have stated.

We would be happy to evaluate your scope. Is your scope MIL or MOA? What reticle does your scope have? We will create you a return once we have this information so we can select the correct item number.
"

I'm having this problem because i've taken a stab at reloading and my reloads are impacting higher. I only need 2-3mils! I'll take any suggestions.
 

pell1203

Full Member
Dec 27, 2007
1,039
165
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Bellevue, WA
Drewdemon, the instructions for adjustment are rather confusing as described in the manual... I used to have one of these scopes but no longer do so I am going from what I read in the manual and what I remember. Following the 5 step process as described in your manual (I looked at the one available for download on-line). Below is a paraphrase of the instructions which may help clear things up for you.

1. Turn the elevation adjustment knob to "0."
2. Loosen the set screws as described in step 2 so that turret turns freely.
3. Follow step 3 just as described. For example, if you think you will need an additional 3 mils of adjustment, pull turret up and turn it clockwise between 3.2 and 3.5 mils to give yourself the room to adjust for 3.0 mils.
4. This is the step, if I remember correctly, that was confusing to me... DON'T PUSH THE TURRET DOWN AT THIS POINT, but instead tighten the set screws with the turret pulled up so that your turret has room to adjust down without bottoming out. Next go shoot and zero your rifle... You should have, if you adjusted correctly, an additional 3.2 to 3.5 mil of down adjustment from your prior position.
5. Once your rifle has been zeroed, follow what step 5 says to do (loosen set screws, slip turret to "0" index mark, then PUSH FIRMLY DOWN on turret and turn turret clockwise until it bumps into the Zero Stop. Then, while continuing to push down, tighten the set screws).

Hopefully, this will help you figure it out. I was hoping a current owner would have come along to help you out but since there were no takers I took a shot.

Good luck!
 
Likes: Drewdemon

Drewdemon

Online Training Member
Feb 20, 2017
150
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Drewdemon, the instructions for adjustment are rather confusing as described in the manual... I used to have one of these scopes but no longer do so I am going from what I read in the manual and what I remember. Following the 5 step process as described in your manual (I looked at the one available for download on-line). Below is a paraphrase of the instructions which may help clear things up for you.

1. Turn the elevation adjustment knob to "0."
2. Loosen the set screws as described in step 2 so that turret turns freely.
3. Follow step 3 just as described. For example, if you think you will need an additional 3 mils of adjustment, pull turret up and turn it clockwise between 3.2 and 3.5 mils to give yourself the room to adjust for 3.0 mils.
4. This is the step, if I remember correctly, that was confusing to me... DON'T PUSH THE TURRET DOWN AT THIS POINT, but instead tighten the set screws with the turret pulled up so that your turret has room to adjust down without bottoming out. Next go shoot and zero your rifle... You should have, if you adjusted correctly, an additional 3.2 to 3.5 mil of down adjustment from your prior position.
5. Once your rifle has been zeroed, follow what step 5 says to do (loosen set screws, slip turret to "0" index mark, then PUSH FIRMLY DOWN on turret and turn turret clockwise until it bumps into the Zero Stop. Then, while continuing to push down, tighten the set screws).

Hopefully, this will help you figure it out. I was hoping a current owner would have come along to help you out but since there were no takers I took a shot.

Good luck!
pell1203 that worked! Thank you
 

Steelhead

Sergeant of the Hide
Jun 26, 2003
634
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Idaho
I really like mine! Accuracy is great out of the factory barrel. Mine doesn't like some of my AICS magazines for some reason, so I just don't use them. I've been using Magpul mags and they work just fine. I also took my bolt out and wet sandpapered it to get all the machine marks off. Now it runs really smooth.
 

trob_205

Sergeant of the Hide
Jul 11, 2013
617
228
43
Coldwater, MI
I really like mine! Accuracy is great out of the factory barrel. Mine doesn't like some of my AICS magazines for some reason, so I just don't use them. I've been using Magpul mags and they work just fine. I also took my bolt out and wet sandpapered it to get all the machine marks off. Now it runs really smooth.
at first AI mags fit really tight in mine and acted like they didn’t wanna lock in. That’s no longer the case for me tho. Eventually it gets easier.
 

Pilotscrappy

Sergeant of the Hide
Jul 21, 2018
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Anyone running the pmags that let you seat bullet longer ? I'm wanting to play with seating depth on the loads for my RPR and don't wanna drop80$ on accuracy mag if the pmags are doing okay?
 

trob_205

Sergeant of the Hide
Jul 11, 2013
617
228
43
Coldwater, MI
Anyone running the pmags that let you seat bullet longer ? I'm wanting to play with seating depth on the loads for my RPR and don't wanna drop80$ on accuracy mag if the pmags are doing okay?
SR Pmags are right on the fringe of working for me. Magpul AICS pattern mags are cheaper and work good. Also Ruger has an AICS mag out as well that has worked great for me so far in a couple different rifles.
 
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cuz

Private
Jul 6, 2017
99
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For you RPR owners that have NOT changed your stock, what height scope mount or rings are you using?

I’m a beginner and am having a hard time getting behind my scope. I have a Gen 3 RPR with a 5-25x56mm Scope in an AD-Delta Mount that’s about 1.5” high. There’s enough scope clearance to easily go 3/8” lower if I wanted, but I don’t know if that will be too low to get a proper view thru the scope. If course, the fact that I have old eyes and wear progressive lens glasses does not help with the situation.
 

Pilotscrappy

Sergeant of the Hide
Jul 21, 2018
118
32
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For you RPR owners that have NOT changed your stock, what height scope mount or rings are you using?

I’m a beginner and am having a hard time getting behind my scope. I have a Gen 3 RPR with a 5-25x56mm Scope in an AD-Delta Mount that’s about 1.5” high. There’s enough scope clearance to easily go 3/8” lower if I wanted, but I don’t know if that will be too low to get a proper view thru the scope. If course, the fact that I have old eyes and wear progressive lens glasses does not help with the situation.
I'm using the vortex /seekins 1.45 in rings and they clear fine, I also have a gen 3 rpr with mlok rail no pic rail on top
 
Likes: dmg308
Jun 24, 2009
99
6
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Hermiston, OR
Why not raise your cheek piece so you can use your existing mount? I am using an ADM mount that is the same height as you and my cheek piece is just barely raised above flush with the tube. Now I understand everyone is different but I would think you would be able to raise your cheek piece enough to make you current mount work.
 
Last edited:
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pell1203

Full Member
Dec 27, 2007
1,039
165
63
Bellevue, WA
Anyone running the pmags that let you seat bullet longer ? I'm wanting to play with seating depth on the loads for my RPR and don't wanna drop80$ on accuracy mag if the pmags are doing okay?
I've been using the Magpul PMAG 5 and PMAG 10 7.62 AC AICS Short Action magazines which allow 2.86" max length and have been very happy with their performance. I'd feel comfortable recommending them if 2.86" or less length works for you.
 
Likes: Pilotscrappy
Dec 5, 2017
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AZ
Awesome thx,

I'm needing to go pick one up as I'm chasing the lands in the rpr and it feels like I need to seat the bullet a mile lol
And if those don't quite work for you, you might want to check out the Alpha Type 2 mag. With 3200 rounds down my .308 RPR, that lands is pretty far away when I want to load close to it. Loaded up some 175 TMK's to within .003 of the lands resulting in a COAL of 2.964 and they barely fit in my Alpha mag. . . .but at least they did fit and all functioned well.

http://www.alphaindmfg.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=18&product_id=51
 
Likes: Pilotscrappy

ken4570tc in WY

Sergeant of the Hide
Aug 30, 2018
213
66
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63
Wheatland, Wyoming
For you RPR owners that have NOT changed your stock, what height scope mount or rings are you using?

I’m a beginner and am having a hard time getting behind my scope. I have a Gen 3 RPR with a 5-25x56mm Scope in an AD-Delta Mount that’s about 1.5” high. There’s enough scope clearance to easily go 3/8” lower if I wanted, but I don’t know if that will be too low to get a proper view thru the scope. If course, the fact that I have old eyes and wear progressive lens glasses does not help with the situation.
Cuz,

I have an earlier RPR in .243 with a Burris Eliminator III. I also had difficulty with the scope height so ordered a 1/2 high picatinny riser and readjusted the cheek piece on the butt stock. All is well now.
 

cuz

Private
Jul 6, 2017
99
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Why not raise your cheek piece so you can use your existing mount? I am using an ADM mount that is the same height as you and my cheek piece is just barely raised above flush with the tube. Now I understand everyone is different but I would think you would be able to raise your cheek piece enough to make you current mount work.
My current mount is borrowed so I can use it to try and figure out what I need for a mount. Because of my inexperience, I have many variables I’m trying to figure out. If I have to crank up the cheek piece to get a decent view thru the scope then I can afford to get a lower mount, and then lower the cheek piece to match. But, if I have to lower the cheek piece all the way to get a good view thru the scope with my current mount then I can’t/shouldn’t get a lower mount as it will be too low. Since I’m unable to get a repeatable good view thru the scope at any height cheek piece I’m getting a bit annoyed. I know I need more time behind the rifle to figure it out, but I’m also trying to find out what most of you have to see if I’m at least going in the right direction.

Of course, all of the above assumes the scope is mounted at the correct distance from my eye and that the reticle is properly focused, neither of which may be properly done.
 

Kurusty

New Hide Member
Aug 22, 2018
6
2
3
Arizona
My current mount is borrowed so I can use it to try and figure out what I need for a mount. Because of my inexperience, I have many variables I’m trying to figure out. If I have to crank up the cheek piece to get a decent view thru the scope then I can afford to get a lower mount, and then lower the cheek piece to match. But, if I have to lower the cheek piece all the way to get a good view thru the scope with my current mount then I can’t/shouldn’t get a lower mount as it will be too low. Since I’m unable to get a repeatable good view thru the scope at any height cheek piece I’m getting a bit annoyed. I know I need more time behind the rifle to figure it out, but I’m also trying to find out what most of you have to see if I’m at least going in the right direction.

Of course, all of the above assumes the scope is mounted at the correct distance from my eye and that the reticle is properly focused, neither of which may be properly done.
I'm running Warne skeletonized AR mount and I only have my cheek rest raised about 3/16-1/4" from the lowest position. I have a PST 6-24 x 50 and it has around 3/8" of clearance to the barrel.
 
Jun 24, 2009
99
6
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Hermiston, OR
My current mount is borrowed so I can use it to try and figure out what I need for a mount. Because of my inexperience, I have many variables I’m trying to figure out. If I have to crank up the cheek piece to get a decent view thru the scope then I can afford to get a lower mount, and then lower the cheek piece to match. But, if I have to lower the cheek piece all the way to get a good view thru the scope with my current mount then I can’t/shouldn’t get a lower mount as it will be too low. Since I’m unable to get a repeatable good view thru the scope at any height cheek piece I’m getting a bit annoyed. I know I need more time behind the rifle to figure it out, but I’m also trying to find out what most of you have to see if I’m at least going in the right direction.

Of course, all of the above assumes the scope is mounted at the correct distance from my eye and that the reticle is properly focused, neither of which may be properly done.

Most people (including me) are using AR height mounts on their RPR so 1.4-1.5" from top of rail to center line of the scope.
 

cuz

Private
Jul 6, 2017
99
10
8
I'm running Warne skeletonized AR mount and I only have my cheek rest raised about 3/16-1/4" from the lowest position. I have a PST 6-24 x 50 and it has around 3/8" of clearance to the barrel.
Thanks, that’s the info I was hoping to collect from others just to get an idea of what they had for a setup.