Yeah, that does sound like a pretty narrow window. What some other's have done, I would start at 41 grs and do a pressure ladder from there. Then look for a node somewhere near or above that 42grs, as I've heard some competitive shooters say one gets better consistencies when cases are close or at 100% capacity. When I swap out my .308 barrel for a 6.5CM barrel, that's the approach I plan on taking. I'm certainly no "expert", but I thought I'd through that out as some food for thought.For sure, most reloading manuals are saying start around 39grs- up to 42grs, which in the scheme of things is a pretty narrow window, so it should only take me a day or two to find my node, play around with seating depth, and neck tension. I was just so happy that I found two 8lb jugs of H4350. I haven't measured it yet but I'm pretty sure the bolts on the RPR don't utilize a small firing pin hole so primer piercing, and cratering is a bit of a concern, I may have my bolt head bushed by LRI.
Out of curiosity, I picked up some Hornady brass and brought it home to take some measurements to see how it compared to the various other brass info I've collected and was somewhat surprised to find the thickness of the brass was much like Winchester brass . . . quite thin. Not that this is any big deal, but certainly means there's more volume that you'll find in Lapua brass. So, one is not going get the same results loading Lapua brass with the same load in the Hornady brass.I’m using Lapua Brass with H4350 and 140 ELDs. 43.1 grains gives me single digit SDs. My barrel is slow and that’s right around 2770. Hoping it speeds up after a couple hundred more rounds. But can’t complain much for a factory barrel that shoots factory 140 eld ammo extremely well too. I have once shot Hornady brass I’ll probably do some testing with after my load is finalized in the Lapua brass
I had used a hand primer for quite a while and after a while one does get a good feel for getting a somewhat consistent seating depth. But . . . it still wasn't consistent enough for me. So I starting priming on my Forster Co-Ax press, which gives me very consistent seating depth. I feel that has contributed to lower SD in the single digits and lower ES too.I've never used the priming Toulon my single stage press. Hand priming always worked just right in my process.
For sure. If you go through that reloading depot 6.5CM thread, you’ll find people starting with Hornady and moving to Lapua and having to bump it down .3ish-.5ish grains to achieve the same velocity from before.Out of curiosity, I picked up some Hornady brass and brought it home to take some measurements to see how it compared to the various other brass info I've collected and was somewhat surprised to find the thickness of the brass was much like Winchester brass . . . quite thin. Not that this is any big deal, but certainly means there's more volume that you'll find in Lapua brass. So, one is not going get the same results loading Lapua brass with the same load in the Hornady brass.
You got 15 firings off hornady brass?I bought factory ammo so I started with my once fired Hornady brass. That batch got me to 15 firings. A few years ago when everything 6.5 was in short supply I picked up another 500 factory new cases so I don't expect to be looking at any changes for a few more years. Right now I have basically copied the original 140gr Amax load that they used to print on the box. I've just started on a new barrel and have gotten to a point where I'm just adjusting OAL to tighten up the groups a bit. The 6.5CM cartridge is very easy to load for and you should find several accuracy nodes in your search. Then it's just a matter of picking the velocity to meet your needs.
Yeah 15. That's the same response I get from everyone. My load shoots in the 2700's and the brass was fully prepped. I turned the necks after 5 firings once I purchased the tools. Started annealing at the same time.You got 15 firings off hornady brass?
The rifle was sub-half Moa through 2800 rounds. I changed the barrel in December because I wanted to have it ready for the 2018 match season. In hindsight I wish I would have shot it until it went sour. 2 of us bought our rifles at the same time, consecutive serial numbers. They both shot that well.How many rounds through your previous barrel (with <MOA accuracy)?
Check out this link. More than just the RPR but it’s all 6CM loads.Hello. New to the sight and this may not be where I need to post so please direct me if needed. I have a RPR 6mm Creedmoor. Vortex Viper PST 5-25×50 FFP Illuminated reticle in MOA. I'm seeking load info if anyone has any. I have several powders I intend on trying such as IMR 4831, IMR 4350, VARGET, IMR 3031, and a few other. Will be trying Hornady ELD X 108gr and the Nosler CC 107gr bullets to start. Not asking for anyone's hard earned secrets, just if anyone had any friendly advice. Thanks.
I have two very accurate loads (1/2 moa). One for short range and light breeze mid range, and one if it’s a little more windy mid range that I also use for 1000. This is with the factory barrel.Thank you Sir..
I was primarily hoping that somebody could share their RPR specific load data with OEM barrels.
I'd be interested in this as well. I heard that Paul Reid has won a club match with one, but I don't hear of anybody winning national level matches with them. I assume that's mostly due to the big shooters having an action sponsor and building their rifles off of that action.Does any one know of someone that has won a match above club level with a Ruger PR in either stock or modified configuration?
It’s only downfall in competition is the weight.I've won a few club matches with mine with a bunch of 2nd and 3rds. The rifle is very capable and performs as well as any. We shoot with a bunch of regional competitors and I've never felt out gunned.
The big claim to fame with the RPR is it gets new shooters into the sport. In that arena it is second to none. At our matches there are usually a bunch of RPR's racked up and I've seen shooters start knowing nothing and be able to grow and be competitive with them.
I just checked my 6mm CM Gen2 take off it has 6 screws, replaced mine with the Seekins SP3R.I've been thinking about picking up a 2nd RPR, this one in 6mm CM. Can someone tell me how many screws the forearm in a 2nd Gen is attached with?
I know about the change from KeyMod to M-Lok, that isn't any big deal to me.
Thank you sir. I put a Seekins on my RPR 6.5 also. It was a Gen I and the Samson had to go. this time around I'm hoping to just add a Timney trigger and leave everything else as is.I just checked my 6mm CM Gen2 take off it has 6 screws, replaced mine with the Seekins SP3R.
Gen 2 rails have 6 screws. And they are still KeyMod rails, not M-Lok. I wish they were M-Lok. It would make finding stuff a lot easier.I've been thinking about picking up a 2nd RPR, this one in 6mm CM. Can someone tell me how many screws the forearm in a 2nd Gen is attached with?
I know about the change from KeyMod to M-Lok, that isn't any big deal to me.
When I got my Ruger Precision RF the bolt wasn't smooth and "sticky" as you say. I had removed the bolt and was cleaning everything to try an smooth it out as as I handled the bolt the two edges on the long groove cut me pretty good. Those edges were razor sharp so I wasn't going to leave it that way and risk more cuts down the road. I took my jeweler's file to those two edges and dulled them nicely. Now they can't cut anyone and also as a result the stickiness of the bolt disappeared. My bolt now runs smoothly . . . but not butter smooth. Maybe a little Flitz treatment might get it there???Cool little rifles but of the bolts were extremely sticky on the two I handled. I don’t know if anyone has gotten one and could tell me if they smooth out after a while or if I could give it a bit of the Flitz treatment. I’m torn between the RPRimfire, the CZ 455, and the Ruger 10/22 Target Rifle.