Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Jun 26, 2012
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“Hole size”
It’s called on target pc I think. So you mark your shots with a tool it has and you put this little marker on the center of the hole. You then have to take a reference measure from the image so it can scale. So this target has 1.44” squares. I used that. It does all the math for you.

https://ontargetshooting.com/
 
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LongRangeLefty

Shoots heavy loads..
Feb 13, 2017
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Got to the range today. had to re establish zero after tearing rifle down. After confirming my zero I fired off a fast 8 shot group at 100 to confirm it was all set.

View attachment 6907056

Factory Barrel
Hornady 140gr ELD-M

EDIT: had to fix the target. someone else mentioned if i put in the hole size diameter and i didnt change it. i also double checked the reference measurement and that was off as well. Guess i didnt save it when i did it? anyway, changed a bit from .48 to .66. still not bad for the ol RPR and me. Personally, i still think this target is off. it looks more like a 1 MOA group than .6 MOA. i ll have to make sure i know what i am doing with this program. me thinks if i put calipers on it it would be closer to 1 MOA. not as impressive i guess. Well, another edit, looks like it is in the .6 range.

View attachment 6907058
Nice shooting and I like that program. Very cool!
 

EDA

New Hide Member
May 4, 2018
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What about measuring outside powder mark to powder mark and subtracting the bullet diameter? I kinda think you are under 1/2 as well? 1527253864132.jpg
 
Jan 15, 2010
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When using calipers it is much easier and more accurate to measure the outside of the holes/powder mark as shown above and subtract the bullet diameter.

On the programs I usually lay a tape measure across the targetbsomewhere so when I take the picture I can use that as the fixed measurement in the program and I can always reference back to it.
 
Jun 26, 2012
2,447
1,206
113
N. Carolina
When using calipers it is much easier and more accurate to measure the outside of the holes/powder mark as shown above and subtract the bullet diameter.

On the programs I usually lay a tape measure across the targetbsomewhere so when I take the picture I can use that as the fixed measurement in the program and I can always reference back to it.
Yeah I’ll probably do something similar like put a quarter on the target. Either way though the calipers and the program are in the ballpark of each other so we can calll it .6 ish and be good enough. Point being this a factory barrel with factory ammo and an 8 shot group not a cherry picked 3 shot group with hand loads. My love hate relationship with the RPR lives on but like I’ve said before bang for buck it’s a good rifle.
 

EDA

New Hide Member
May 4, 2018
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Specs look like it, but I'm not sure if anything else is different. has anyone put the gen 3 handguard on a gen1? Or, what's the best fit and tolerance/rigidity handguard out there for a Gen1?
 
Jun 26, 2012
2,447
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Specs look like it, but I'm not sure if anything else is different. has anyone put the gen 3 handguard on a gen1? Or, what's the best fit and tolerance/rigidity handguard out there for a Gen1?
Don’t get caught in the weeds on the gens. It’s the same exact rifle. Just different standard equipment. Gen 2 is different because it had a new hand hard and a muzzle brake. Gen 3 has a new handguard. That’s it.
 
Jan 15, 2010
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The RPR has proved to be a very predictable rifle. It does well with factory ammo but really shines with handholds. The factory barrel does well for a long while as well. The one thing I found over the past few years was that you will want to keep the barrel somewhat clean. Once it gets overly copper fouled the accuracy goes away fairly quickly.

Going to 1000y and beyond is very doable with the 6.5CM on a regular basis.
 

LongRangeLefty

Shoots heavy loads..
Feb 13, 2017
409
69
28
The RPR has proved to be a very predictable rifle. It does well with factory ammo but really shines with handholds. The factory barrel does well for a long while as well. The one thing I found over the past few years was that you will want to keep the barrel somewhat clean. Once it gets overly copper fouled the accuracy goes away fairly quickly.

Going to 1000y and beyond is very doable with the 6.5CM on a regular basis.
I’ve always cleaned mine about every 200 rounds. It now has 2700 rounds through it with no noticeable loss in accuracy. Still going strong!
 

whatsupdoc

Duck season
Dec 12, 2017
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Long Island NY
Im seeing some weird shit on my RPR stock. The length of pull adjustment seems to slip, but it is not getting shorter its getting longer.
Both locks are tight WTF?

I may have to take it apart and see what is going on.
 
Feb 19, 2017
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New York
Im seeing some weird shit on my RPR stock. The length of pull adjustment seems to slip, but it is not getting shorter its getting longer.
Both locks are tight WTF?

I may have to take it apart and see what is going on.
Very first upgrade most RPR guys do is the stock. Mine was funky like that too when I first got it but then threw magpul prs on it
 
Jan 15, 2010
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I’ve always cleaned mine about every 200 rounds. It now has 2700 rounds through it with no noticeable loss in accuracy. Still going strong!
In the beginning I cleaned every 350 rounds. That number slowly declined over time. I always try to clean well but leave a little behind so the fouling process is a little shorter and easier. At around 2k rounds the accuracy dropped to around 3/4moa which was terrible for this rifle. Initially I thought the barrel was giving up a bit but decided to start with a good cleaning to get a base line. I decided this time to go down to bare metal. The lead and copper just kept coming and coming... for 6 hours. I later surmised that I had been leaving a bit too much every time. Anyway I got it clean clean and was back to sub-half Moa. If Ruger sold the factory barrel separately I might have stayed with that as the replacement when the time came to rebarrel. They just work.
 

EDA

New Hide Member
May 4, 2018
18
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My Gen 1 hasn't given me any complaints. I did read that loading the bipod can cause the Samson handguard to become loose. Anyone run into this? I haven't shot with my new spike feet yet, so haven't been able to load the pod yet.
 

LongRangeLefty

Shoots heavy loads..
Feb 13, 2017
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^ I have seen reviews left mentioning this. Once I have my setup complete, I blue loctite everything. Bipod, rail, handguard screws, scope rings, everything. However, I don’t load my bipod anyway. Just my style. So other than that I can’t really speak of it.
 

trob_205

Bumblebeetuna
Jul 11, 2013
353
110
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Coldwater, MI
Even before the RPR I was no fan of Sampson handguards after dealing with some customer AR builds. Never stayed tight under hard use and flexed a ton. Eventually the locking system would “stretch” and would not be able to get tight. Same BS with the Troy rails. I will say I never saw this with the RPR (mainly becuase people were changing them out for Seekins or not shooting it that often). But I did notice the normal Samson flex on them.
 

EDA

New Hide Member
May 4, 2018
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^^ Long and Trob, I pulled the handguard, removed excess oil, and reassembled with blue loctite. It has been straight, and is now, but the allen heads were unevenly torqued. It's about as tight as it's going to get without stripping the threads. Still flexes back and forth with some leverage, returns to center. Not only does the Samson have a flex, but the OD nut and shims seem like a bad choice. I will likely go with the MI in 15" for the 20" barrel. Nut is one piece no shims and the only decision seems to be MI or the Seekins. Thanks guys.

EA
 
Jun 26, 2012
2,447
1,206
113
N. Carolina
^^ Long and Trob, I pulled the handguard, removed excess oil, and reassembled with blue loctite. It has been straight, and is now, but the allen heads were unevenly torqued. It's about as tight as it's going to get without stripping the threads. Still flexes back and forth with some leverage, returns to center. Not only does the Samson have a flex, but the OD nut and shims seem like a bad choice. I will likely go with the MI in 15" for the 20" barrel. Nut is one piece no shims and the only decision seems to be MI or the Seekins. Thanks guys.

EA
I run the 18” MI. I would highly recommend it. Gets that bipod just a bit further out for extra stability.
 

EDA

New Hide Member
May 4, 2018
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^ TD, do you run it on a 20" barrel? I have thought about that (.308 here). Sounds like you are happy with the MI regardless.
 

EDA

New Hide Member
May 4, 2018
18
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After googling the computer to death and looking at articles and install videos, I decided on the Seekins for the RPR. Flat bottom is good for me, but the attachment bolt and (12?) torx heads sold me. Looking forward to Friday.
 

bigjake83

Golden Shellback
May 19, 2013
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Southern Idaho
Can a Brother get some Load Data Please....

I have the "Gen3" RPR with the OEM Barrel. I'm already getting .5 MOA from Factory Hornady 140 ELD Match ammo.

I've decided to start load development after 100rds of Slow fired Hornady ammo.

So I have 100 pieces of Hornady Fire Formed Cases, trimmed to 1.910 and fully prepared, I even deburred the flash holes.

16lbs of H4350

500 140 Eld's

And 1000 FGMM 210M Primers
 
Dec 5, 2017
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Thank you Sir..

I was primarily hoping that somebody could share their RPR specific load data with OEM barrels.
Mine is a .308 and I've found loads from other guns to be as good as the kind of thing you're looking for. Every gun, even those of the same model, are different and the load can be quite a bit different. But, these are good starting points for load development and shouldn't take long to find a good node.
 

bigjake83

Golden Shellback
May 19, 2013
2,462
115
63
Southern Idaho
Mine is a .308 and I've found loads from other guns to be as good as the kind of thing you're looking for. Every gun, even those of the same model, are different and the load can be quite a bit different. But, these are good starting points for load development and shouldn't take long to find a good node.
For sure, most reloading manuals are saying start around 39grs- up to 42grs, which in the scheme of things is a pretty narrow window, so it should only take me a day or two to find my node, play around with seating depth, and neck tension. I was just so happy that I found two 8lb jugs of H4350. I haven't measured it yet but I'm pretty sure the bolts on the RPR don't utilize a small firing pin hole so primer piercing, and cratering is a bit of a concern, I may have my bolt head bushed by LRI.
 
Jan 15, 2010
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You will find that this rifle and load are very forgiving and easy to load for. You should find your load in the low to mid 41's. My rifle liked .020 off of the lands and had a velocity in the low to mid 2700's. I loaded the same components along with using FGMM for the primers.

**As always start low and work upon your charge weight along with using proper loading manuals.
 

trob_205

Bumblebeetuna
Jul 11, 2013
353
110
43
Coldwater, MI
I’m using Lapua Brass with H4350 and 140 ELDs. 43.1 grains gives me single digit SDs. My barrel is slow and that’s right around 2770. Hoping it speeds up after a couple hundred more rounds. But can’t complain much for a factory barrel that shoots factory 140 eld ammo extremely well too. I have once shot Hornady brass I’ll probably do some testing with after my load is finalized in the Lapua brass
 
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