Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

CV_Ag

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 26, 2018
114
30
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Dallas, Texas
Does better glass really do better with mirage? I thought it was more a function of power vs temperatures....
Someone can correct me if I’m wrong because I’m by no means an expert but from my understanding of you have better glass then it handles mirage better. This is why, when you’re looking at 1000 or more yards and you have two scopes, one good quality and one not so much, the good quality glass is giving you great sight picture where as the other one is already fuzzy and poor quality sight picture. Now introduce mirage....while I don’t think the glass will do anything to rid the mirage, the quality glass puts you at an advantage already because you already have a decent picture where as the poor quality glass gives you a crappy picture plus mirage so then you’re really struggling.
 
Jun 26, 2012
2,464
1,212
113
N. Carolina
Someone can correct me if I’m wrong because I’m by no means an expert but from my understanding of you have better glass then it handles mirage better. This is why, when you’re looking at 1000 or more yards and you have two scopes, one good quality and one not so much, the good quality glass is giving you great sight picture where as the other one is already fuzzy and poor quality sight picture. Now introduce mirage....while I don’t think the glass will do anything to rid the mirage, the quality glass puts you at an advantage already because you already have a decent picture where as the poor quality glass gives you a crappy picture plus mirage so then you’re really struggling.
the glass is all the same these days (it only comes from like 3 different sources), its the coatings that differentiate the optics. the higher end scopes cant eliminate or make mirage disappear bu they can still allow clarity in the optic even under the worse conditions. Beyond 1000 i could barely see my targets even in low mirage conditions and like i said, i also ran out of parallax.
 
Likes: Bender

The_Count

Found It....
Nov 13, 2012
468
55
28
Land of Spanish Moss
the glass is all the same these days (it only comes from like 3 different sources), its the coatings that differentiate the optics. the higher end scopes cant eliminate or make mirage disappear bu they can still allow clarity in the optic even under the worse conditions. Beyond 1000 i could barely see my targets even in low mirage conditions and like i said, i also ran out of parallax.
What scope are you purchasing as a replacement? Razor?
 

LongRangeLefty

Shoots heavy loads..
Feb 13, 2017
409
69
28
^ I’ve used both cheap and high end glass long range. With great glass comes great clarity. It’s not like it’s going to cancel out mirage. But even with mirage, great glass will still be sharper than cheap glass. Sure power, paralax, and other things come into play, but a better sight picture will be produced in just about all conditions with better glass. You get what you pay for I my experience.
 
Likes: Bender
Jun 26, 2012
2,464
1,212
113
N. Carolina
What scope are you purchasing as a replacement? Razor?
well like i said, probably leave it on the RPR and rebarrel to a 308 and build up another 6.5. i have a razer sitting here already that i could use on that but ill probably just stick with NF S&B and Kahles from now on. Im really liking the MSR reticles these days so S&B and Kahles are high on my list.
 
Likes: Bender

trob_205

Bumblebeetuna
Jul 11, 2013
372
110
43
Coldwater, MI
Yeah, this was my experience with my .308 out of the box (3/4 MOA and sometimes better with factory ammo). But, like with anything that's in high production, not all are going to perform well.
Listening to the podcast Franks big on if you get one that doesn’t shoot - rip it apart and put it back together “tight as shit” and it’ll shoot lol. Some barrels might walk, but from what I’ve dealt with selling these things is to give the factory barrels a chance. They do shoot.
 
Likes: Bender

LongRangeLefty

Shoots heavy loads..
Feb 13, 2017
409
69
28
My .308 is gonna go for quite some time. I’ve actually got a new back up barrel just waiting to go after that. 1/2 moa is fine for my standards and purposes. I’m good for a longggg time
 
Dec 5, 2017
107
25
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AZ
Likewise, my .308 barrel is going to last quite a while (mostly using mild loads) and now with a little over 2,300 rounds out of it, I'm still getting 1/2 MOA or better, which also meets my standard. But. . . there's room for improvement. So I'm going to get a good high end barrel to mount and keep the factory barrel as a backup. There's two issues I want to improve on: a barrel that isn't affected as much by the hot summer days of triple digit degrees and one that has longer nodes for variations in ammo.
 
Dec 5, 2017
107
25
28
AZ
It was a 6.5 creed; it died on me during a match at about 3300 rounds. 300 factory ELDs, 800 140 RDFs over 43.0 grains of 4350, and 2200 of 140 ELDs over the same.
Thanks for your response. I kind of thought that might be the case, but I hate to guess. 3300 rounds through a 6.5CR is really good life span from what I hear and to get that out of a factory barrel . . . awesome.

Looks like you like and must be doing well with 140 ELDs to have put so many down your tube. I've hear from many others that the 140 ELDs work extremely well in their 6.5CRs.
 
Jun 2, 2006
461
17
18
27
Salem, Ohio
My load was; hornady brass trimmed to 1.910, 43.0 grains of H4350 Br-2 primers, oal of 2.8; but grew to 2.815 by the end to chase the lands (they say the ELD is best with a .055 jump). I averaged 2811fps with 6 SD and 13 ES; up until somewhere over the 3300 mark when she gave out of me in which case i was at 2720ish with 14.7 SD and 53 ES with the same load, and same lot numbers on everything. The issue was the impacts were all over the place at 400+, but would still bughole at 100.

Now I have a 24" LRI throated for 140 ELDs on the way; so I'm looking forward to seeing the difference.
 

Bender

Something witty here
Feb 12, 2014
2,554
2,067
113
Cheyenne WY.
My load was; hornady brass trimmed to 1.910, 43.0 grains of H4350 Br-2 primers, oal of 2.8; but grew to 2.815 by the end to chase the lands (they say the ELD is best with a .055 jump). I averaged 2811fps with 6 SD and 13 ES; up until somewhere over the 3300 mark when she gave out of me in which case i was at 2720ish with 14.7 SD and 53 ES with the same load, and same lot numbers on everything. The issue was the impacts were all over the place at 400+, but would still bughole at 100.

Now I have a 24" LRI throated for 140 ELDs on the way; so I'm looking forward to seeing the difference.
Factory barrel?
 

V-Ref

Sergeant
Jul 28, 2008
316
57
28
Eagle River, Alaska
RPR design (ie Tubb 2000) eliminates many sources of stress found in a chassis/improperly bedded stocked rifle. Short bolt throw, takes ARC mags, user adj LOP, my Timney is tuned to a field reliable 10oz pull, piles of aftermarket support, prefit barrels everywhere.

I think you can spend a lot more money on a different platform, and not achieve the same level of performance on the target, regarding the RPR.

If Ruger had decided to design it to accommodate a mag bolt face/long action, ...who knows what thier market share would've been.
 
Aug 16, 2013
369
13
18
Wisconsin
Just got my 223 RPR out today, put a Timney trigger on it, man that trigger is real nice.

My only complaints are the plastic mags, maybe they'll get better after they wear in a bit and the aluminum on the bottom edge of butt stock has kind of a sharp edge on it. Otherwise great gun, groups were alright seeing how its 20 mile winds here.
 
Likes: Mrfjones
Jan 1, 2018
24
2
3
Just got my 223 RPR out today, put a Timney trigger on it, man that trigger is real nice.

My only complaints are the plastic mags, maybe they'll get better after they wear in a bit and the aluminum on the bottom edge of butt stock has kind of a sharp edge on it. Otherwise great gun, groups were alright seeing how its 20 mile winds here.
I got a 223 gunsite scout mag for mine, and i’ll get another so i have at least 2. They are heavy but feel much better. I also put a prs on mine so no more sharp edges.
 

pell1203

Full Member
Dec 27, 2007
979
137
43
Bellevue, WA
It seems everything factory is a pain. When I changed my hand guard the factory barrel nut was near impossible to move. Same with muzzle brake. Omg I thought it was welded on or something.
I agree! Tried taking the muzzle brake off using a home setup and could not apply enough force to break it apart. Ruger said they torque them to 15 foot-lbs. I used a 2' bar/lever trying to spin it off and applied a hell of a lot more force than 15 ft-lbs. It would not budge and I didn't have enough hands to hold the two opposing wrenches and use a hammer to tap on muzzzle brake all at the same time.

Decided to take it to my gunsmith instead and make it HIS problem! :D May be the best $45 I've ever spent! :cool:

I'm hoping a proper barrel vise, a touch of differential heating, a few hammer taps, and a set of augmented wrenches will solve the problem!
 

LongRangeLefty

Shoots heavy loads..
Feb 13, 2017
409
69
28
For those who are wondering; removing the factory barrel is a pain..
Seems like I got a factory freak. I have completely disassembled my gen 1 no problem at all.

Just curious, as I haven’t had the problem, if the barrel will thread out of the receiver with the nut practically welded to the barrel still, could you just install a new barrel with a new nut?
 
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LongRangeLefty

Shoots heavy loads..
Feb 13, 2017
409
69
28
^ Removing just the handguard itself is super easy. Lining the nuts up right for the bushings that the handguard then has to slide onto after swapping a barrel can be a pain in the ass
 
Likes: Terry H

LongRangeLefty

Shoots heavy loads..
Feb 13, 2017
409
69
28
^ I clean mine every 200 rounds, and will probably move to less often, and it has always been a smooth operator. (About 2500 rounds now through the gen 1 .308)
 
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