Precision Rifle Foam Insert for Pelican 1750

Precision Rifle Foam Insert for Pelican 1750

Some thoughts on my initial outings with the Eaton Tactical Pre cut Foam Insert for the 1750 case.

I have been cutting my own case foam since I started using Pelican 1750 cases. I came across Eaton Tactical on Instagram and bought an insert for my POF P-308. I asked mr. Eaton if he had plans to build a precision rifle insert. I'm sure I'm not the first one or the only one that he was discussing this with. We discussed the equipment that I wanted to have in the case with the rifle. Mr. Eaton sent me this prototype to see how it worked with different stock configurations.

Shipping and packaging: the inserts arrive I. A heavy plastic wrap/bag heat sealed on both ends. Inside, the inserts are in a clear plastic wrap sealed on both ends. The packaging works well for shipping.

When it's removed from the packaging, it fits right in the case. The precision rifle foam set includes 3 foam inserts.
1. A solid bottom layer
2. An intermediate layer with all cut outs. One end of this layer is cut to fit around the wheels on the Pelican 1750.
3. The third layer has all of the cutouts and is the last one stacked in the bottom of the case. You could call this the top layer.
4. The lid uses the OEM Pelican foam that originally came with the case

So, the short answer is it works very well. The only rifle that doesn't fit in it without trimming is the AI chassis. That's going to require the knife.

Since this is a prototype, some input from everyone would be appreciated.

1. Carry the rifle scope up toward the handle or scope down toward the hinges.
2. What cutouts need to be in the case? In other words what equipment do you want to carry in your 1750 case with the rifle?

1. Rifle
2. Bolt separate from rifle
3. Sunshade
4. Bipod.
5. Suppressor. Bare or in suppressor cover or in Heat proof pouch?
6. Cleaning kit
7. Laser range finder
8. Dope book. How big is your book?
9. Magazines
10. Cleaning rod

What should be in the case with the rifle? Any thoughts?



Head MF Door Keeper
Jul 30, 2013
Lincoln, NE
I say scope toward the handle. Not sure why, just seems to be the way I would do it. Can the foam be flipped over so that it could be carried either way?

I want room for a bolt, probably in a pouch, a suppressor in a cover, a few mags and maybe an ammo pouch or two?
Likes: blcouch
Oct 31, 2008
Slatington, PA
I’d like to have a little more foam between the elevation turret and the side of the case. It’s probably ok the way it is, but there is enough room to slide things around a little bit.
I say scope toward the handle. Not sure why, just seems to be the way I would do it. Can the foam be flipped over so that it could be carried either way?

I want room for a bolt, probably in a pouch, a suppressor in a cover, a few mags and maybe an ammo pouch or two?
1. Yes. The foam can be flipped so the scope is oriented toward the handle or hinges. I chose handle.

2. There is a cut out for the bolt. It's hard to see the bolt in those pictures. Do you have a picture of the pouch that you carry your bolt in?

3. I was talking to mr. Eaton about making the suppressor cut out large enough to include a suppressor in a heat cover and a pouch. I usually rifles only had cover and the fatty pouch
An interesting addition.

1. Silica gel pack for moisture control.

2. Sun drape

Does anyone use a sun-drape? Also, I wonder how big of a silicone gel pack you would need to control humidity inside a 1750?

Edited. That was supposed to say sun drape

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Last edited:
Feb 15, 2005
Mission, KS
Scope is, no matter how awesome, the most fragile part. So, we want it as far from possible impact (or intrusion on impact) as possible. Hence: scope always to handles. Soft cases or hard. Anyone moving the case is going to use the handle, so /most/ drops should be on the hinge side. It's the best bet for safety, at least.

I see lots do it the other way, because... they want the gun to look right side up when you open the case?

One thing I like to do when making containers for fragile things is add a more sturdy last-ditch impact protection layer in the thinner spaces, like where the turrets get near the case edge. My favorite for this is Coroplast (That's a brand name of corrugated plastic, but any will do). Next time you see a yard sale sign blowing around, steal it.

Anyway, cut some strips off with a box knife or X-Acto, stick them in the sides (some cases I have like for night vision have booklet slots, so this fits in there nicely). Be sure to inspect occasionally, like after air travel etc. to make sure it is not damaged. It will turn white like other plastics when stressed so you can tell, and then you can flip it or replace it to make sure it still has impact protection for next time. Sorta like how bike helmets only are good for one impact, this is a somewhat sacrificial piece.

If Eaton is really working with you, mention this thought to him instead of just doing it as a hack yourself. He may have another material in mind for it (dense impact foam like on helmets?) but regardless may agree it is worth including a small cutout for the extra protection to slip into.

Last crazy thought: I have spent too much time cleaning expensive items, and their cases, and replacing foam because someone left them open and they got rained into (no, not me!). Foam absorbs and retains water. So... that's it. I have nothing, but would love to hear if there's any thought on this. Vague thoughts are: wetness indicator like the stickers that turn pink on some electronics, and a more specifically absorbent layer behind the cut-to-fit foam that will suck up any bad moisture before you notice this, so it doesn't ruin everything. But I have never had the knowledge to find and implement any such thing.