Nucleus Orders

Ericsl2

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Just received my .223 gain twist barrel blank from Bartlein (ordered in May) and shipped it off to PVA for chambering & threading in .223AI.

Hopefully PVA gets the barrel done and ARC gets my SA RH Nucleus to me (order #302X) by early December so I can do load development over Christmas shutdown. I also have an RH long action nucleus on preorder for what will proabably be a 7 SAUM build, but I'm in no rush for the long action.

Guess I need to get the Mod 22 trigger with the AI shoe dovetail and a stock ordered so I'm not waiting for parts when the action and barrel arrives. Can't decide if I want to go with an AT or AX AICS. Since someone here verified that the Nucleus bolt knob clears the AX stock when folded I'll probably go AX.

I will be honest, nothing at all against ARC or the Nucleus but lately I've been tempted to order a TL3 or Impact... maybe it's just rifle ADD again, LOL
That's what I did. After my order in January, I started setting aside 200$ a month. I didn't have any bolt actions to shoot so I wasn't spending anything on reloading.. My plan was one I hit enough money for a mausingfield, I was going to cancel the nucleus and go that route. I got the money I needed and ended up going with an impact after molesting one for a good half hour at the gun shop. I love the nucleus and impact. For me personally I prefer the impact but I won't be getting rid of either action. The nucleus has some cool features I've never had before. It's nice to have two rifles to interchange between that are similar but still very different.
 

Kiba

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That's what I did. After my order in January, I started setting aside 200$ a month. I didn't have any bolt actions to shoot so I wasn't spending anything on reloading.. My plan was one I hit enough money for a mausingfield, I was going to cancel the nucleus and go that route. I got the money I needed and ended up going with an impact after molesting one for a good half hour at the gun shop. I love the nucleus and impact. For me personally I prefer the impact but I won't be getting rid of either action. The nucleus has some cool features I've never had before. It's nice to have two rifles to interchange between that are similar but still very different.
I put together a 22BR on a TL3 for a friend... really like how smooth that action is and it's been 100% reliable with the little 22BR out of AI and Magpul AICS mags. His TL3 is AW cut and also runs 22BR out of my AW mags with the HRD mag kits. I also like the mechanical ejection.

I'm sticking with the Nucleus because of the 72 degree bolt rotation... I have an AT and and AX that I shoot frequently plus a Tikka in 223AI (that the nucleus will be replacing) and I'm now very used to the shorter bolt rotation of those three rifles. If I shoots my friend's TL3 it feels a little odd with the 90 degree bolt rotation.

Hopefully everything shows up by the middle of December, looking forward to getting it together and getting some loads worked up.
 
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NorthWesterner

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I ordered right-handed. Maybe like some others mentioned, they did a batch of lefties. Hopefully mine comes soon; I am getting excited. Let us know how yours works for you, if you don't mind.
Of cours I will let ya know how it works out. WIll be another 3-4 months for my chassis to arrive. 28 nosler build will be a long haul.
 

Pchhuom

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Dang. Wish I knew that a month ago. I’ve got 2 on order but need a rifle built by the first week in Oct. Mine likely won’t be shipping till around that time. Guess I can cancel one and pick up another action. Still give me time to spin a barrel and work up a load.
I was in the same position. But got lucky and found someone on here that was selling their new Nucleus. So I pulled the trigger. Should be delivered to my gun builder by Wednesday. Good luck man hope you get something figured out.
 

andrewsben

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Dang. Wish I knew that a month ago. I’ve got 2 on order but need a rifle built by the first week in Oct. Mine likely won’t be shipping till around that time. Guess I can cancel one and pick up another action. Still give me time to spin a barrel and work up a load.
I have 2 RH SA actions coming in on Tuesday. Already have a tenacity and an origin, with a black bear coming in on Wednesday. Considering trying to get a long action atlas tactical so might be willing to sell one of the nucleus actions depending on how I like it compared to the black bear/origin/tenacity/etc.
 

Hoyt7mm

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Got my lefty Nucleus Thursday, through it together and got a preliminary load Friday. Found something that would work, loaded Friday night and went to a match Saturday. I'm very impressed with the action and PVA barrel setup overall! I did have a few hang/no fires (6XC Alpha SR brass) so I ordered a 19# spring. Not a huge deal as I only had 2 not fire of my ~80 rounds at the match.
 

Triple D

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I have 2 RH SA actions coming in on Tuesday. Already have a tenacity and an origin, with a black bear coming in on Wednesday. Considering trying to get a long action atlas tactical so might be willing to sell one of the nucleus actions depending on how I like it compared to the black bear/origin/tenacity/etc.
I appreciate it, but I’ll likely just order an Impact or another Deviant.
 

TexasTightwad

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For those of you keeping track, the last confirmed order number for a shipped right-handed short action is #2854.

So why do so many of you put X's in your order number? Mine is 2900, so hopefully it'll be any day now.
 
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MarkLeupold

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For those of you keeping track, the last confirmed order number for a shipped right-handed short action is #2854.

So why do so many of you put X's in your order number? Mine is 2900, so hopefully it'll be any day now.
Only paid for. No shipping notification yet, but should be soon.
 

squish72

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Only paid for. No shipping notification yet, but should be soon.
Since you paid your invoice have you heard anything else from them? I got notification Friday night late. Talked to my FFL Monday morning and paid the invoice then and sent the FFL info. Just wondering if they confirmed anything after you paid.
 
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MarkLeupold

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Since you paid your invoice have you heard anything else from them? I got notification Friday night late. Talked to my FFL Monday morning and paid the invoice then and sent the FFL info. Just wondering if they confirmed anything after you paid.
No, did the same as you. Got the invoice Friday, sent the FFL and paid on Sunday. I'm thinking we're probably at the front of the next batch and they're getting their ducks in a row before they ship. I got excited that I might have it in hand this weekend once I saw the invoice, but realistically it could still be next week.
 

flyer

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Mine is at the FFL doing the 10 day wait. Unfortunately due to a schedule mismatch it's actually 15 days before I can pick up.

At home everything is waiting on it.

I think I'm going to assemble it at the FFL to show them how it goes together.
 

ICU22250

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If anyone is looking for a Nucleus package, I have one in the classifieds. It's a cut rifled 6mm creed, shouldered barrel from PVA. New action and barrel. Need to sell it cause I'm building a house and could use the extra funds. Just thought I'd mention it here as well ..
 

TexasTightwad

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I was just told by Justin at ARC that he just invoiced order #2898. I called to see about adding an extra bolt head to my order. I had bought-out somebody else's preorder and Barloc, but ARC had not yet updated the information. My order is #2900, so he said it's a good thing I called when I did, because he just invoiced up to 2 numbers before mine, and they would have invoiced the original buyer!
 
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Ag12tex

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I was just told by Justin at ARC that he just invoiced order #2898. I called to see about adding an extra bolt head to my order. I had bought-out somebody else's preorder and Barloc, but ARC had not yet updated the information. My order is #2900, so he said it's a good thing I called when I did, because he just invoiced up to 2 numbers before mine, and they would have invoiced the original buyer!
Pretty accurate. I was order #2874 and just completed my payment. Short action, 308 bf for those interested.
 

sleeplz

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On my first deposit I was charged $16.84 for shipping. Now that it's telling me to pay the invoice, ARC is charging $35 for shipping. Is this the same for anyone else?
 

Afkirby

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On my first deposit I was charged $16.84 for shipping. Now that it's telling me to pay the invoice, ARC is charging $35 for shipping. Is this the same for anyone else?
If you ordered a barloc or anything extra with your preorder you get charged some shipping at the time of preorder. Then they charge you the difference of $35 when it ships. Thats how it worked for me having my action and barloc to WV.
 
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andrewsben

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On my first deposit I was charged $16.84 for shipping. Now that it's telling me to pay the invoice, ARC is charging $35 for shipping. Is this the same for anyone else?
yeah i thought that at first too. I actually had three shipping chrages. But once i thought about it, it made sense since the previous payments are credited to the final invoice the only real shipping charge is the one listed on the final invoice.
 

sleeplz

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If you ordered a barloc or anything extra with your preorder you get charged some shipping at the time of preorder. Then they charge you the difference of $35 when it ships. Thats how it worked for me having my action and barloc to WV.
Ah, thanks for the answer. What Go/No go guage is everyone using? Also, where do I buy action screws to fit the action into stocks.
 

TexasTightwad

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I got invoiced this evening for order #2900.

Ah, thanks for the answer. What Go/No go guage is everyone using? Also, where do I buy action screws to fit the action into stocks.
I will be using a Forster go gauge from Northland Shooters Supply (I'm getting 2 Criterion savage small shank barrels for the Nucleus from there). The gauge is $28.50, and you can get away with only using a go gauge. You just put a piece of scotch-style tape on the back end of the gauge and it becomes a No-Go. The tape is about .003" thick, and on most cartridges there's a tolerance of .010", so if the bolt will close on the bare gauge but not on the gauge+tape, you are good to go.

I believe the Nucleus uses 1/4"-28 screws like the Remington 700. If there is a Fastenal near you, that's a good place to find them in whatever length is needed. I'll probably try to find some that are of a strong grade. I don't know that it is necessary, but it makes me feel better.
 
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tsu45

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I got invoiced this evening for order #2900.


I will be using a Forster go gauge from Northland Shooters Supply (I'm getting 2 Criterion savage small shank barrels for the Nucleus from there). The gauge is $28.50, and you can get away with only using a go gauge. You just put a piece of scotch-style tape on the back end of the gauge and it becomes a No-Go. The tape is about .003" thick, and on most cartridges there's a tolerance of .010", so if the bolt will close on the bare gauge but not on the gauge+tape, you are good to go.

I believe the Nucleus uses 1/4"-28 screws like the Remington 700. If there is a Fastenal near you, that's a good place to find them in whatever length is needed. I'll probably try to find some that are of a strong grade. I don't know that it is necessary, but it makes me feel better.
I'm not an engineer or a metals guy so take it for what you paid for it, but I'd be careful going to a screw harder than the receiver.
 
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Ando

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HI
Order #2823
Invoiced 9/13 #2191
for SA RH 308 bolt head
Barrel Nut BarLoc
No tracking info yet

Build will be Magpul PRS
Proof Steel Savage small shank 24" 6.5 CM
Timney CE 2 stage
Scope???
 

flyer

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I'm not an engineer or a metals guy so take it for what you paid for it, but I'd be careful going to a screw harder than the receiver.
Steel bolts in aluminum threads are done all the time and the steel bolt is much harder. It's not the greatest but with proper torque it can work.

With a steel bolt in a steel receiver, the relative hardness is going to be much closer because the receiver is heat treated and bolts are not heat treated so much that they loose all ductility.

Bottom line, a hardened action screw won't hurt at all.
 

Tactical Taz

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I have my Nucleus in a Magpul Pro 700 Chassis. With both ARC mags and magpul mags I can insert the mag too high where the bolt hits the feed lips. It is too high where shaving a bit off the feed lips will help. Opening the feed lips did not help either. This isnt a problem of not being able to get the mag low enough. The mag latch is low enough to function properly. When pulled down it runs fine. It is just when there is upward pressure on the mag that it obstructs the bolt. Even being ran into a bag on a barricade was binding it up.

I am just curious if there are others experiencing this with other chassis or stocks?

I have seen the Vector shit show thread. That was handled poorly in my opinion. I am not trying to make the same deal at all. I am happy with the action and the feel of the chassis. I am just trying to learn if it is a chassis issue, although I cant see why right now without their being a mag stop on in it. I would lean towards yes though since nobody has reported any problems like it.
 

NovaHunter

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My
I have my Nucleus in a Magpul Pro 700 Chassis. With both ARC mags and magpul mags I can insert the mag too high where the bolt hits the feed lips. It is too high where shaving a bit off the feed lips will help. Opening the feed lips did not help either. This isnt a problem of not being able to get the mag low enough. The mag latch is low enough to function properly. When pulled down it runs fine. It is just when there is upward pressure on the mag that it obstructs the bolt. Even being ran into a bag on a barricade was binding it up.

I am just curious if there are others experiencing this with other chassis or stocks?

I have seen the Vector shit show thread. That was handled poorly in my opinion. I am not trying to make the same deal at all. I am happy with the action and the feel of the chassis. I am just trying to learn if it is a chassis issue, although I cant see why right now without their being a mag stop on in it. I would lean towards yes though since nobody has reported any problems like it.
Nuk
I have my Nucleus in a Magpul Pro 700 Chassis. With both ARC mags and magpul mags I can insert the mag too high where the bolt hits the feed lips. It is too high where shaving a bit off the feed lips will help. Opening the feed lips did not help either. This isnt a problem of not being able to get the mag low enough. The mag latch is low enough to function properly. When pulled down it runs fine. It is just when there is upward pressure on the mag that it obstructs the bolt. Even being ran into a bag on a barricade was binding it up.

I am just curious if there are others experiencing this with other chassis or stocks?

I have seen the Vector shit show thread. That was handled poorly in my opinion. I am not trying to make the same deal at all. I am happy with the action and the feel of the chassis. I am just trying to learn if it is a chassis issue, although I cant see why right now without their being a mag stop on in it. I would lean towards yes though since nobody has reported any problems like it.

My nucleus is in a Mcrees chassis. I've run it in 3 matches and off all sorts of barricades. I have not had any binding issues sitting the rifle on the mag, or using the mag as a barricade stop.

I would think it's a chassis issue more than an action issue.
 

bohem

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I got invoiced this evening for order #2900.


I will be using a Forster go gauge from Northland Shooters Supply (I'm getting 2 Criterion savage small shank barrels for the Nucleus from there). The gauge is $28.50, and you can get away with only using a go gauge. You just put a piece of scotch-style tape on the back end of the gauge and it becomes a No-Go. The tape is about .003" thick, and on most cartridges there's a tolerance of .010", so if the bolt will close on the bare gauge but not on the gauge+tape, you are good to go.

I believe the Nucleus uses 1/4"-28 screws like the Remington 700. If there is a Fastenal near you, that's a good place to find them in whatever length is needed. I'll probably try to find some that are of a strong grade. I don't know that it is necessary, but it makes me feel better.
A couple important corrections here:

MOST catridges are 0.004 from GO to NOGO
Field is typically GO+0.006
The 50BMG in a machine gun is 12 IIRC

I can't think of anything that's 0.010"

Also, scotch tape is normally about 0.0015" per ply
Masking tape is 2
Blue Painters tape is 2-2.5 depending on type and brand


You can certainly do what you like but before quoting numbers please be sure you know what you're listing. Other people may inadvertently use them thinking they're doing something right and they're really out of spec.
 

bohem

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@bohem What do you recommend for go/no go guages, should i get both? What are field guages for?
Typically for home use get a pair from the same manufacturer, then after that it doesn't matter because you're not likely to be using it day in and day out nor are you using it to match the company that ground the reamer.

If you're just setting a barrel nut barrel onto a Nucleus you really only need a GO, the NOGO is there for peace of mind.

When I used barrel nuts I always set them dead balls on GO and used new brass. New brass is typically 1-3 thousandths undersize so when I set it to headspace snugly on GO the new brass grew minimally and I got excellent life out of it.
 

TexasTightwad

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I appreciate that you are trying to make sure that good information is being shared. I'll take any constructive criticism, because I try to be very careful to not spread misinformation and want to know when I'm wrong. That's why I did my homework before making that post.

A couple important corrections here:

MOST catridges are 0.004 from GO to NOGO
You are sort of correct. What you are referring to is the dimension of the gauges. Manufacturers typically make the GO gauge the same length as SAAMI's minimum, and the NO-GO .004" longer than the minimum. That doesn't mean that .004 is the SAAMI tolerance, it just means that it's what the gauge manufacturer chose in order to keep customers well away from the danger zone and keep themselves out of court.

I can't think of anything that's 0.010"
Check out SAAMI's official publication on chamber dimensions here. In the chamber drawings, you are looking for an x inside of a circle next to a dimension. The legend says that this denotes a headspace dimention. These are the cartridges I checked:
7.62x39
6.5 Creedmoor
223 Remington
308 Winchester
6.8mm Remington SPC
270 Winchester
30-06 Springfield

Every one of those has a tolerance of exactly .010".

Also, scotch tape is normally about 0.0015" per ply
I'll admit, I didn't mic a piece of tape right before posting that, but I have before and memory told me it was about .002" (but this will vary by brand). So I did a little bit of google-fu and came up with a range of .0015-.003, and posted "about .003" to err on the side of safety. If someone puts tape on their gauge expecting it to be .003" and it's .0015", then that means they are .0015" farther from having too much headspace.

Again, I appreciate you trying to make sure my information is accurate, and I'll do the same for you and hopefully we'll both be better for it. Pleased to make your acquaintance bohem!
 
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Winny94

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I appreciate that you are trying to make sure that good information is being shared. I'll take any constructive criticism, because I try to be very careful to not spread misinformation and want to know when I'm wrong. That's why I did my homework before making that post.


You are sort of correct. What you are referring to is the dimension of the gauges. Manufacturers typically make the GO gauge the same length as SAAMI's minimum, and the NO-GO .004" longer than the minimum. That doesn't mean that .004 is the SAAMI tolerance, it just means that it's what the gauge manufacturer chose in order to keep customers well away from the danger zone and keep themselves out of court.



Check out SAAMI's official publication on chamber dimensions here. In the chamber drawings, you are looking for an x inside of a circle next to a dimension. The legend says that this denotes a headspace dimention. These are the cartridges I checked:
7.62x39
6.5 Creedmoor
223 Remington
308 Winchester
6.8mm Remington SPC
270 Winchester
30-06 Springfield

Every one of those has a tolerance of exactly .010".


I'll admit, I didn't mic a piece of tape right before posting that, but I have before and memory told me it was about .002" (but this will vary by brand). So I did a little bit of google-fu and came up with a range of .0015-.003, and posted "about .003" to err on the side of safety. If someone puts tape on their gauge expecting it to be .003" and it's .0015", then that means they are .0015" farther from having too much headspace.

Again, I appreciate you trying to make sure my information is accurate, and I'll do the same for you and hopefully we'll both be better for it. Pleased to make your acquaintance bohem!
Do you know who you're arguing with? Haha
 

flyer

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Field gauges are for making sure a clapped out semi-auto isn't going to blow up imediately. You shouldn't need one for a bolt action or any gun you own unless it's a belt fed machine gun like a 1919 where things are a bit different

I got to pick up my threaded barrel Barloc today.

The receiver is still in the waiting period. Doesn't California realize I've been waiting since January?

Any way, the Barloc is cool but the Savage take-off barrel I brought to the FFL to try it on had some pretty grungy threads so the barrel nut would not go on all the way.

After I got home, a little squirt of WD-40 and a steel bristle brush had the threads nice and clean and the barrel nut threaded all the way to the end of the threads.

Stupid me, I should have cleaned it before going to my FFL.

It looks nice on the barrel but my receiver is at the FFL so I can't try that out.

I wound up putting on my Area 419 thread protector but with the stack of barrel nut, tensioner and recoil lug with the recessed threads of the thread protector, I've only got about 1-2 threads holding it together.

I think PVA might begin selling a Nucleus Barloc specific thread protector for people with switch barrel setups. Hopefully it will bottom out just shy of the barrel nut or shouldered Barloc cone piece so everything will be compact, protected and hopefully prevent the barrel nut from rotating away from it's previous headspace position.

The rest of the action looked good. I tried to figure out the bolt release but couldn't get it to turn, I must be doing something wrong.

The bolt seemed to have some dark grease on it. It sounds like not cleaning it might lead to light primer strikes. I'll be sure to clean that out and re-lube (very lightly).

The bolt lift seemed very reasonable but I imagine it will get lighter and smoother after it's been run a few hundred or thousand times. I plan to do a bunch of dry fire...
 

alwaywatchyoursix

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The receiver is still in the waiting period. Doesn't California realize I've been waiting since January?
Couldn't have said it better myself.

On the bolt release, I think it will only turn once you've retracted the bolt to the rear. I think you have to do that first to get the relief in the bolt assembly lined up with the bolt release. Otherwise the bolt release has nowhere to go.

I don't have mine yet either, so I'm guessing, based off of what I've seen and heard so far.