Nucleus Build Pictures

D2junky

New Hide Member
Jul 1, 2018
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#6
My new freedom machine, #6 off the line
-Nucleus
-PVA 6.5C prefit barrel (krylon flat black)
-Hellfire Brake
-Timney Calvin Elite 2-stage
-KRG Bravo stock/arca rail
-SWFA 5-20 HD
View attachment 6918945
Doesn’t look like you went Barloc....so what did u use for an action wrench. Sitting on my shouldered barrel from PVA and get my action tomorrow...
 
Apr 4, 2013
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#7

D2junky

New Hide Member
Jul 1, 2018
32
6
8
#14
A mock up w/ Barloc, 16.5" NSS Criterion Varmint contour barrel, TriggerTech primary trigger, PTG BDL, and Griffin minimalist muzzle brake in McMillan HTG stock.

Barloc doesn't clear barrel channel so screws are not fully tighten.

View attachment 6920651
Was that a 700 inlet or other clone inlet? Mine drops right into a Manners 700 inlet but all my McMillan 700 inlets require a bit of sanding for bolt handle clearance. Not as much as a sr3/TL3 but some.
 
Mar 7, 2018
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Arizona
#16
I put a Barloc on my Savage action and dropped it in an HS Precision for a varmint contour. I had to open the channel up for the Barloc as well. I think that will be a fairly common theme for Barloc in a stock, unless you have a straight barrel contour. It wasn't much though, maybe 1/16th or so free floated it in my stock. I also had it skim bedded, so that lifted it up a little bit.
 

Hewhoovercomes

New Hide Member
Mar 22, 2018
8
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#18
Picked up my Nuke yesterday. Waiting on a barrel. I've thrown it in a KRG W3 Gen 4. The front action screw is too long and will not allow the bolt to rotate. Just an fyi. The Huber two stage feels amazing.
I'm putting mine in an XRAY Chassis and this is my first build, If my action screw is too long similar to yours, how do I secure it? Did you replace the screw?
 
Jul 30, 2013
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Lincoln, NE
#19
I'm putting mine in an XRAY Chassis and this is my first build, If my action screw is too long similar to yours, how do I secure it? Did you replace the screw?
I went to Fastenal. The only 1/4-28 SHCS they had was 1/2” long, which is what I had with the chassis. I believe there is supposed to be a washer as the hole is just slightly slotted. I thought about cutting it short, but will try the washer idea first. I’ll play with it tomorrow after work and let you know.
 
Dec 17, 2017
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#21
I went to Fastenal. The only 1/4-28 SHCS they had was 1/2” long, which is what I had with the chassis. I believe there is supposed to be a washer as the hole is just slightly slotted. I thought about cutting it short, but will try the washer idea first. I’ll play with it tomorrow after work and let you know.
You don't want to try and make a screw a full .5" shorter by stacking washers until it works. You're going to want to trim the screw down.

You can use a dremel, or you can use the bolt cutters that are built into many "industrial" style wire cutters. Here's an example of what I'm talking about. You can pick them up online or in a Home Depot/Lowes for about $15 and they'll strip or crimp wires and cut screws for you. Thread the screw into both sides of the screw cutter portion, then squeeze and it snaps right off. If you're really worried about the threads you can just touch them up with a bit of sandpaper if you don't have a dremel, but I've never had a screw that had problems requiring chamfering the threads using screw cutters like these.
 
Jul 30, 2013
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Lincoln, NE
#23
You don't want to try and make a screw a full .5" shorter by stacking washers until it works. You're going to want to trim the screw down.

You can use a dremel, or you can use the bolt cutters that are built into many "industrial" style wire cutters. Here's an example of what I'm talking about. You can pick them up online or in a Home Depot/Lowes for about $15 and they'll strip or crimp wires and cut screws for you. Thread the screw into both sides of the screw cutter portion, then squeeze and it snaps right off. If you're really worried about the threads you can just touch them up with a bit of sandpaper if you don't have a dremel, but I've never had a screw that had problems requiring chamfering the threads using screw cutters like these.
You've misunderstood. The length of the SHCS is only 1/2 inch long, which was the shortest that I could find. And I don't think you're going to cut a 1/4-28 cap screw with a wire strippers.
 
Feb 14, 2017
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Utah
#26
Going shooting next week and couldn’t wait my Barloc so I put it together with a savage barrel nut.

Nucleus RH short action
25 inch X-caliber medium Palma 1:10 308 barrel
No name 3 port muzzle brake
Greyboe Renegade stock
TriggerTech special trigger
IOR Valdada 3.5-18x50

Really happy with how it’s turned out and can’t wait to shoot it.
 

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Feb 23, 2017
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#27
Do you mean with the front action screw? If so, then none as of yet. I'm going to try it with one. If that doesn't work, I'll shave the screw down.
I have Gen 5 W3 chassis and the manual says "For Remington stocks, two washers are used on the front action screw." I ended up using only one with Mausingfield as two washer gives me to little thread contact, but using none will make the screw go in too much blocking the bolt.
 
Feb 23, 2017
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#29
Thanks Derek. I'll try that and see what happens. I bought the chassis used and have no instructions for it.
They have Gen6 instructions on their website. For R700 you need one washer in the back and 2 in the front, like I said with my Mausingfield I use one back and one front. I'm sure they can send you a few washer if you don't have it if you give them a call. Good luck.
 
Dec 17, 2017
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#30
You've misunderstood. The length of the SHCS is only 1/2 inch long, which was the shortest that I could find. And I don't think you're going to cut a 1/4-28 cap screw with a wire strippers.
If you buy wire strippers with the threading for 1/4"-28 you absolutely can cut them. The trick would be finding a pair with that specific threading instead of the more common 1/4-20. I most frequently use mine to cut down 1/4-20 socket head cap screws.

Regardless, not using washers will be preferable since it's more repeatable (in terms of zero and maintaining constant screw torque) if you ever remove the action and re-install it later. Washers usually compress when you tighten down on them which does some wonky things with your screw torque. Don't use washers, cut the bolt down in whatever way you see fit.
 
Jul 30, 2013
677
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Lincoln, NE
#31
I have Gen 5 W3 chassis and the manual says "For Remington stocks, two washers are used on the front action screw." I ended up using only one with Mausingfield as two washer gives me to little thread contact, but using none will make the screw go in too much blocking the bolt.
One washer was enough to make some clearance between the boot and the screw. Thanks for the tip!
 

Robby0931

Sergeant of the Hide
Jan 26, 2013
37
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Yuma, AZ
#34
One washer was enough to make some clearance between the boot and the screw. Thanks for the tip!
On my KRG Gen 5 W3, I use two washers up front and one on the back for my TL3 as stated in the instruction. With the ARC Nucleus as the others have mentioned only one washer was needed for the front action screw solid thread engagement and one on the rear.
 

flyer

Sergeant of the Hide
Apr 25, 2018
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#36
If you buy wire strippers with the threading for 1/4"-28 you absolutely can cut them. The trick would be finding a pair with that specific threading instead of the more common 1/4-20. I most frequently use mine to cut down 1/4-20 socket head cap screws.

Regardless, not using washers will be preferable since it's more repeatable (in terms of zero and maintaining constant screw torque) if you ever remove the action and re-install it later. Washers usually compress when you tighten down on them which does some wonky things with your screw torque. Don't use washers, cut the bolt down in whatever way you see fit.
A socket head cap screw in fine thread is almost guaranteed to be grade 8 and probably hard enough to wreck wire cutters.

The proper way to shorten a bolt (short of lathe turning) is to make a stack of one nut and as many washers as you need for your desired length and tighten that on the bolt. Next use a hack saw, band saw, abrasive saw or grinder to cut off the excess length. Use a file to smooth the cut and square it up somewhat, then remove the nut which will push any remaining burrs out of the bolt thread. Finally put about a 45° chamfer on the end to blend with the thread profile. I usually use a sanding disk, belt sander or bench grinder for the last step but a file can work too.

An alternative on longer bolts is to double nut instead of creating a washer stack.

In a stock/chassis, you're bolting against aluminum, fiberglass or wood, so use a washer.
 
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