Imported carbon fiber tripod (RT90C)

Diver160651

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Can you elaborate on this?
I edited the post to add more info. I am not saying you can't hit things like you guys are setting up. Clearly you can, but a bit of setup change and you can load the tripod less (less wobble) and have the tripod do some of the work.. You be faster and a better shot with just slight tweaks.
 

kriller134

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I edited the post to add more info. I am not saying you can't hit things like you guys are setting up. Clearly you can, but a bit of setup change and you can load the tripod less (less wobble) and have the tripod do some of the work.. You be faster and a better shot with just slight tweaks.
I’m having a bit of a hard time following your post. So if I’m understanding this correctly, I should kick out the legs at more on an angle to get a more stable position?
 

Jefe's Dope

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I 'think' he's trying to say that pushing on the front leg in a center position is NOT the best way. If you're right handed, shooting right handed, rotate the tripod slightly clockwise. You'll need to find the sweet spot practicing. At least, that's what I've found shooting from a standing position using a tripod. Sitting or kneeling is not as critical as the tripod is much more rigid and your center of gravity is much lower.
 
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Diver160651

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For a right hander, you need to rotate the tripod clockwise, making a bit of room for the shooter on the left side of the gun. Tripods actually shoot well 180 degrees to the images most of the guys post, but the rear facing leg gets in the way of the mag and shooter, hence the offset. As Jeff said low positions and wide legs are so stable any comfortable position works
 

kriller134

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For a right hander, you need to rotate the tripod clockwise, making a bit of room for the shooter on the left side of the gun. Tripods actually shoot well 180 degrees to the images most of the guys post, but the rear facing leg gets in the way of the mag and shooter, hence the offset. As Jeff said low positions and wide legs are so stable any comfortable position works
Ok got it. Thanks so much for pointing this out. I’ll give it a go next time I’m out.
 
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Diver160651

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Ok got it. Thanks so much for pointing this out. I’ll give it a go next time I’m out.
Takes a bit of time, but by loading the gun less (not free-recoil, your shoulder is still on the gun) to eliminate shooter induced shake, then letting the tripod help with recoil, you’ll probably shoot 1/2 minute @100 regularly, even standing. Just need to play with it a bit.
 
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wilson3899

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Takes a bit of time, but by loading the gun less (not free-recoil, your shoulder is still on the gun) to eliminate shooter induced shake, then letting the tripod help with recoil, you’ll probably shoot 1/2 minute regularly even standing. Just need to play with it a bit.
Thanks for the info, I'll have to play with this. That's my setup you referenced in the pic. I've read your tripod write ups in the past and guess I thought that was how you always recommended to set it up.👍
 

shlouf

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I 'think' he's trying to say that pushing on the front leg in a center position is NOT the best way. If you're right handed, shooting right handed, rotate the tripod slightly clockwise. You'll need to find the sweet spot practicing. At least, that's what I've found shooting from a standing position using a tripod. Sitting or kneeling is not as critical as the tripod is much more rigid and your center of gravity is much lower.
Yep. I found this out pretty quick the first time getting behind mine.
 
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Diver160651

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Thanks for the info, I'll have to play with this. That's my setup you referenced in the pic. I've read your tripod write ups in the past and guess I thought that was how you always recommended to set it up.👍
Of course no worries -- it really used to be rough just a hand full of years ago when all we knew was the center column aluminum tripods.

4 more un-asked for tips... only trying to help hoping that someone reading might get an idea and put their own flavor on their needs, not in anyway trying to be anything else. I am sure a lot of people know these tips, but certain many do not judging form the pics I tend to see.

1. Always extend the lower leg first *if* you expect that you will be using multiple leg sections. Extend the section closest to the head last. -- This saves tons of time and is safer than having to go to the lower leg and extend it more because your top sections are max'd out. Use the top section for final adjustments. I've seen guys tip their tripod over trying to adjust their lower legs after the tops were fully extended and they needed more height. The "pro tip" if nothing else, is if you extend the bottom first, your not having to move the tripod even in your hands because the leg locks are not moving away from you; it is simply faster. If your setting or kneeling and for certain do not need the full height of even the upper, then use the top sections.

2. Use a silver sharpie and mark your upper leg with your standing position, setting and kneeling. That's my match pack in the image.. I just pulled one leg out to show the markings.. I actually used a white paint marker from ACE.
Unknown-5.jpeg
3. You may get lucky if you play around and find that standing is with the lower legs all the way out, kneeling just the uppers and sitting in a wide stance all with the same upper leg markings.. For me Standing is lower leg fully out, then the upper as marked, kneeling is as marked with the lower legs in and sitting is as marked with the legs one click wider.. Make the setup know, before I deploy the tripod. Take the time at home to play with this. Again you will be faster and smoother.. This will help in matches and hunting.

4. For high angle shooting do not be afraid to work one or more tripod legs in the wide or widest angle position. This helps shorten the leg and makes it very stable. I usually run the leg "up" the sloped FFP at the angle, including side hills. For super up angle , I will actually run the tripod 180 to the images and straddle the rearward facing leg.. The Image below Elk hunting after taking a Bull at the far ridge -(thats my brother-in-law on my gun I setup, my pack is in the shadow) - note the right leg is angled up the hill to effectively lower the leg and adding stability, while staying low and hidden by the brush in front. That is much faster and more solid than trying to extend the other two legs. In some steep places extending the legs isn't an option anyway.
Unknown-6.jpeg

To wilson3899 point, play with this stuff..

edited to add, it is always better to start to high than to low... if you can only remember 1 thing that would be it. We ran a field tripod match and I gave everyone that hint in prematch emails and again at the stage.. after they finished the stage and once I actually explained it, 90% of them said they wish they had listened..

stay tuned we’ll have another of theses in 2020, 2 PRS Regional Qualifiers, several PRS Club series and NRL22 matches.
4669CD8A-5A6B-431A-826F-09C8F677CF43.png
Edited to add - 11-22-2020 come out and use your tripod! Fun team match, we can help set you up with a teammate of you need one -free camping-
 
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Jefe's Dope

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Of course no worries -- it really used to be rough just a hand full of years ago when all we knew was the center column aluminum tripods.

4 more un-asked for tips... only trying to help hoping that someone reading might get an idea and put their own flavor on their needs, not in anyway trying to be anything else. I am sure a lot of people know these tips, but certain many do not judging form the pics I tend to see.

1. Always extend the lower leg first *if* you expect that you will be using multiple leg sections. Extend the section closest to the head last. -- This saves tons of time and is safer than having to go to the lower leg and extend it more because your top sections are max'd out. Use the top section for final adjustments. I've seen guys tip their tripod over trying to adjust their lower legs after the tops were fully extended and they needed more height. The "pro tip" if nothing else, is if you extend the bottom first, your not having to move the tripod even in your hands because the leg locks are not moving away from you; it is simply faster. If your setting or kneeling and for certain do not need the full height of even the upper, then use the top sections.

2. Use a silver sharpie and mark your upper leg with your standing position, setting and kneeling. That's my match pack in the image.. I just pulled one leg out to show the markings.. I actually used a white paint marker from ACE.
View attachment 7204782
3. You may get lucky if you play around and find that standing is with the lower legs all the way out, kneeling just the uppers and sitting in a wide stance all with the same upper leg markings.. For me Standing is lower leg fully out, then the upper as marked, kneeling is as marked with the lower legs in and sitting is as marked with the legs one click wider.. Make the setup know, before I deploy the tripod. Take the time at home to play with this. Again you will be faster and smoother.. This will help in matches and hunting.

4. For high angle shooting do not be afraid to work one or more tripod legs in the wide or widest angle position. This helps shorten the leg and makes it very stable. I usually run the leg "up" the sloped FFP at the angle, including side hills. For super up angle , I will actually run the tripod 180 to the images and straddle the rearward facing leg.. The Image below Elk hunting after taking a Bull at the far ridge -(thats my brother-in-law on my gun I setup, my pack is in the shadow) - note the right leg is angled up the hill to effectively lower the leg and adding stability, while staying low and hidden by the brush in front. That is much faster and more solid than trying to extend the other two legs. In some steep places extending the legs isn't an option anyway.
View attachment 7204783

To wilson3899 point, play with this stuff..
I keep the lower legs at their locked height. It only adds about 6" to my overall collapsed length and is one(3) less locks to manipulate. It also happens to be the right length for when kneeling/sitting w/o extending any of the legs, just opening them. I also leave all the other locks 'loose' but not too 'loose'. When folded the three feet meet and keep the legs from extending. When I'm ready, I can open the legs and use a downward throwing motion and it will extend all the legs at once and I can then just tighten the locks. I start at the top of one leg and work my way down. Once that leg is locked it gets set down for stability and I can then lock the other two legs. it's extremely efficient but takes a little practice. You also want to find just the right amount of tension on the 'loose' locks.

Maybe I'll take some video if anyone's is interested and having difficulty understanding what I'm trying to convey.
 

Diver160651

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I keep the lower legs at their locked height. It only adds about 6" to my overall collapsed length and is one(3) less locks to manipulate. It also happens to be the right length for when kneeling/sitting w/o extending any of the legs, just opening them. I also leave all the other locks 'loose' but not too 'loose'. When folded the three feet meet and keep the legs from extending. When I'm ready, I can open the legs and use a downward throwing motion and it will extend all the legs at once and I can then just tighten the locks. I start at the top of one leg and work my way down. Once that leg is locked it gets set down for stability and I can then lock the other two legs. it's extremely efficient but takes a little practice. You also want to find just the right amount of tension on the 'loose' locks.

Maybe I'll take some video if anyone's is interested and having difficulty understanding what I'm trying to convey.
Hunting, I do something similar, except I run my upper legs at the standing/sitting/kneeling mark as in my image above. I sling the tripod so the extra length is not in play. That way the tripod is ready to deploy in a sitting or kneeling position almost immediately. That for sure would be my preferred position to shoot from. That said, if I know that I’m going to be taking a standing shot or the likelihood is high I’ll have the thing set up and slung under my arm. RRS has great sling flush cups. I hunt in the West so the ranges tend to be longer and we are not bumping game

For the typical PRS match I just leave the tripod at standing height fold the legs and throw the sling over my shoulder. I think the Really Right Stuff, flush cup sfling adapters could probably be adapted to the other tripods
 
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shlouf

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Wind was a little too wild on the hill to hold steady enough for groups standing up. No problems sitting down. I'm liking this setup more and more each time I get behind it. IMG_2261.JPG
 

clubsportmark

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Guys,

Hoping you can help. Purchased a RT90C, I’ve read through these 9 pages but am still a little confused.

Haven’t got a huge amount of experience using them, had a couple before but where cheap & cheerful set ups.

I’m not sure which route to go down and hoping you can help me out based on all the experience on here. Regarding my shooting I’m looking to keep the set up a lightweight as possible but will accept heavier options if it brings considerable gains. I doubt I need the option for crazy angles as I don’t shoot in any mountainous regions.

I already have a hog saddle which will house rifles which don’t have RRS / Arca set up, and two AI rifles that have RRS plates attached. So my choice needs to have a QD function to swapping between the both.

These’s are the options that I think I have:

1) Direct threading the Hog saddle to supplied video bowl and Leveling platform that came with the tripod. Purchasing an additional ball head to sit on the factory metal plate.

2) Ballhead - Sunwayfoto XB-52DL GNN. Comes with a plate adaptor to attach Hog, and from what I can read a good ballhead but perhaps not as a slick set up compared with the RRS SOAR range. However being in the U.K. is easier to source.

3) RRS - Ballhead BH-55 LR. Direct thread on top to the tripod. Heavy & expensive. But no doubt the most capable.

4) RRS - Anvil 30. Correct me if I am wrong, threads direct on top without an adaptor needed? Only negative I can see is that the QD lever’s are very close together and could accidentally flip the wrong one. Lightweight, cheaper and accept pic rail as well as RRS/Arca.

5) RRS Leveling base. TA-3 from what I’ve read can’t be used with the RRS supplied video bowl, but can use the Tripod supplied video bowl. However it’s limited movement and “gritty” in the stock bowl and doesn’t allow a pan it’s either locked on or off? Is that correct?

Also TA-2U-SC. Screws directly on and uses it’s own bowl? I can’t figure out if it’s a better or worse option to those above.

Please help with the pros and cons of each and help me arrive at a conclusion. Value for money is important to me, also there is quite a few options above so don’t confuse matters with other suggestions!

Thanks in advance, Mark
 

just browsing

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Any tall guys using this tripod? I’m 6’5” in boots and trying to figure out if the RT90 will be tall enough for use with Binos on a leveling head... without having to hunch over or spread my legs out.
 

Jefe's Dope

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Any tall guys using this tripod? I’m 6’5” in boots and trying to figure out if the RT90 will be tall enough for use with Binos on a leveling head... without having to hunch over or spread my legs out.
Gonna be close. But I would imagine most tripods will come up just a tad short as the RT90 is not a short tripod.
 
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just browsing

Gunny Sergeant
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The Leofoto 404c is about the only one I’ve found to be of adequate size. I think the PVA would work as well but Lord knows when I would actually get that.

The Leo is on sale on Amazon right now so may just need to bite the bullet and spend the extra money so I know I’m getting something that works.
 

aggiez28

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I have not read all the rellies but it seems like it gets good Initial reviews. It would be I teresting to see how if does after a time period of significant use.
 
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never_summer

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Any tall guys using this tripod? I’m 6’5” in boots and trying to figure out if the RT90 will be tall enough for use with Binos on a leveling head... without having to hunch over or spread my legs out.
just measured the rt80 at full extend and the arca base on my lh-55 no neck is at 67-3/4”. I’m 6’-2” and if I mounted anything on it, probably would be a stretch to high for me
 

Guiseppe83

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I saw that site as well during my research and it just seemed too fishy for me.
I rocked a $314 amazon “Desmond” with ball head works fine to this day. Great for optics — fair for rifle. Curious if you’ve compared the rt-90c to a leofoto? Like leofoto on-364c?
 

65x55guy

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Guys,

Hoping you can help. Purchased a RT90C, I’ve read through these 9 pages but am still a little confused.

Haven’t got a huge amount of experience using them, had a couple before but where cheap & cheerful set ups.

I’m not sure which route to go down and hoping you can help me out based on all the experience on here. Regarding my shooting I’m looking to keep the set up a lightweight as possible but will accept heavier options if it brings considerable gains. I doubt I need the option for crazy angles as I don’t shoot in any mountainous regions.

I already have a hog saddle which will house rifles which don’t have RRS / Arca set up, and two AI rifles that have RRS plates attached. So my choice needs to have a QD function to swapping between the both.

These’s are the options that I think I have:

1) Direct threading the Hog saddle to supplied video bowl and Leveling platform that came with the tripod. Purchasing an additional ball head to sit on the factory metal plate.

2) Ballhead - Sunwayfoto XB-52DL GNN. Comes with a plate adaptor to attach Hog, and from what I can read a good ballhead but perhaps not as a slick set up compared with the RRS SOAR range. However being in the U.K. is easier to source.

3) RRS - Ballhead BH-55 LR. Direct thread on top to the tripod. Heavy & expensive. But no doubt the most capable.

4) RRS - Anvil 30. Correct me if I am wrong, threads direct on top without an adaptor needed? Only negative I can see is that the QD lever’s are very close together and could accidentally flip the wrong one. Lightweight, cheaper and accept pic rail as well as RRS/Arca.

5) RRS Leveling base. TA-3 from what I’ve read can’t be used with the RRS supplied video bowl, but can use the Tripod supplied video bowl. However it’s limited movement and “gritty” in the stock bowl and doesn’t allow a pan it’s either locked on or off? Is that correct?

Also TA-2U-SC. Screws directly on and uses it’s own bowl? I can’t figure out if it’s a better or worse option to those above.

Please help with the pros and cons of each and help me arrive at a conclusion. Value for money is important to me, also there is quite a few options above so don’t confuse matters with other suggestions!

Thanks in advance, Mark
this. I need help here getting a solid setup for a DTA SRS. Going to use the RT90C. Ordering an RRS rail for the bottom of my forend. Will he used for range work, some hunting, and potentially PRS matches out in the future. Any pointers on the rest of the setup?
 

JM4590

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4) RRS - Anvil 30. Correct me if I am wrong, threads direct on top without an adaptor needed? Only negative I can see is that the QD lever’s are very close together and could accidentally flip the wrong one. Lightweight, cheaper and accept pic rail as well as RRS/Arca.

I can’t speak to the levers as I just received mine and have no time in the field with it, but I can tell you that it will mount directly to the tripod. What I found in my “ hurry up and let’s seee if this shit works” is that while standing, the setup is pretty good but not what I was expecting for stability, and again, that could totally be me and not having time behind the rig. Sitting is another story. That thing is rock solid. I could hold 1/2 minute of cat tail top at a pond 150 yds away. It would Ben my preference to sit or kneel when utilizing the tripod anyway. I’m anxious to get more shots behind this rig. As mentioned above, I think the real proof will be in the extended use and its ability to hold up. The Anvil will no doubt last many a year, and for the cpl hundred for the tripod I’ll take the chance. I’m a once a month match shooter AT BEST, so for me, it should be good solution to a more expensive rig. If I was shooting weekly, and was more of a shooter than a middle of the pack,and don’t care, I would probably opt for the RRS tripod and head.

Hope this helps , And just my .02
 
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kriller134

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I have the anvil and I feel it’s not an issue with the two levers. They’re so very different in shape that you can tell which lever you’re grabbing by touch alone. Your situational awareness has to be absent to get them mixed up.
 

Ryan7839

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Just scored an RT90 from Amazon (prime 2 day shipping) $297, they have a $15 coupon going $282, and I signed up for their credit card (no annual fee) for a $125 gift card. $157!!

Now I need to reread these 9 pages to find the right BH!!
 

Overkillphil

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Overkillphil

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I rocked a $314 amazon “Desmond” with ball head works fine to this day. Great for optics — fair for rifle. Curious if you’ve compared the rt-90c to a leofoto? Like leofoto on-364c?
What size was that Desmond? I just found a 55mm low profile ballhead from them, rated at 77lbs, for $169 on Amazon
 

steve123

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Just scored an RT90 from Amazon (prime 2 day shipping) $297, they have a $15 coupon going $282, and I signed up for their credit card (no annual fee) for a $125 gift card. $157!!

Now I need to reread these 9 pages to find the right BH!!
Are you already a Amazon Prime customer? I tried to get the deal you told us about by just getting the Amazon store card but I only get $50 off.
What's the secret???
 

Ryan7839

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Are you already a Amazon Prime customer? I tried to get the deal you told us about by just getting the Amazon store card but I only get $50 off.
What's the secret???
I have been a prime member for quite awhile. Not sure how they calculate the discounts.
 
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Guiseppe83

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Aug 17, 2018
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What size was that Desmond? I just found a 55mm low profile ballhead from them, rated at 77lbs, for $169 on Amazon
Mine has the db52 ball head. Very happy with it to this day. Have taken many of shots off it with 20+lb rigs. Does loosen up and needs tlc & locktite. But never had failures. Using for glass it’s stellar and very light weight to pack. I have a rt90 arriving Tuesday. So hoping it also Mets my expectations. I’ll keep you in the loop
 
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itieknots7

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Guys,

Hoping you can help. Purchased a RT90C, I’ve read through these 9 pages but am still a little confused.

Haven’t got a huge amount of experience using them, had a couple before but where cheap & cheerful set ups.

I’m not sure which route to go down and hoping you can help me out based on all the experience on here. Regarding my shooting I’m looking to keep the set up a lightweight as possible but will accept heavier options if it brings considerable gains. I doubt I need the option for crazy angles as I don’t shoot in any mountainous regions.

I already have a hog saddle which will house rifles which don’t have RRS / Arca set up, and two AI rifles that have RRS plates attached. So my choice needs to have a QD function to swapping between the both.

These’s are the options that I think I have:

1) Direct threading the Hog saddle to supplied video bowl and Leveling platform that came with the tripod. Purchasing an additional ball head to sit on the factory metal plate.

2) Ballhead - Sunwayfoto XB-52DL GNN. Comes with a plate adaptor to attach Hog, and from what I can read a good ballhead but perhaps not as a slick set up compared with the RRS SOAR range. However being in the U.K. is easier to source.

3) RRS - Ballhead BH-55 LR. Direct thread on top to the tripod. Heavy & expensive. But no doubt the most capable.

4) RRS - Anvil 30. Correct me if I am wrong, threads direct on top without an adaptor needed? Only negative I can see is that the QD lever’s are very close together and could accidentally flip the wrong one. Lightweight, cheaper and accept pic rail as well as RRS/Arca.

5) RRS Leveling base. TA-3 from what I’ve read can’t be used with the RRS supplied video bowl, but can use the Tripod supplied video bowl. However it’s limited movement and “gritty” in the stock bowl and doesn’t allow a pan it’s either locked on or off? Is that correct?

Also TA-2U-SC. Screws directly on and uses it’s own bowl? I can’t figure out if it’s a better or worse option to those above.

Please help with the pros and cons of each and help me arrive at a conclusion. Value for money is important to me, also there is quite a few options above so don’t confuse matters with other suggestions!

Thanks in advance, Mark
The TA3 doesn't work without using the Tripods existing bowl (not optimal on my opnion).

However, RRS makes a TA4 for 100mm tripods and that "should" work. They are currently backordered on the long handle version, but as soon as B&H photo gets the long handle version in stock, I'm ordering one to test.
 
Last edited:

itieknots7

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Anyone try the RRS 100mm TA4 yet?

The short handle version is FINALLY back in stock, but I'm holding out for the long handle version before ordering.
 

itieknots7

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TA4 100MM leveling base back in stock at B&H Photo.

Order Placed! Will update the group when it arrives. I'm really hoping it provides a TA3 alternative WITHOUT having to use the RT90C's bowl adapter.
 

itieknots7

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TA-4 100mm RRS Leveling Base arrived today.... going back to B&H tomorrow. Not even close fitting.

I'm still on the fence about using a TA-3 and the factory RT90C 75mm bowl... For the price of a RRS leveling base, I wanted all the buttery smoothness, and am a little apprehensive on how a modified TA-3 will feel.

I'm going to wait until Shot Show 2020 and see what RRS announces. I'd love to see a 75mm Anvil-30.

 

MPHReallyRightStuff

RRS SOAR Division Manager
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www.reallyrightstuff.com
@itieknots7 there already is an Anvil-30 that has a adapter option for our apex instead of the leveling base or the platform. Fits the same as all our other pieces for the 3 series suregrip versa apex, can promise you if it will work on other manufacturers products.


Anvil-30-Ballhead.6-01.png
 

Jefe's Dope

Duke Caboom
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itieknots7

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@itieknots7 there already is an Anvil-30 that has a adapter option for our apex instead of the leveling base or the platform. Fits the same as all our other pieces for the 3 series suregrip versa apex, can promise you if it will work on other manufacturers products.


View attachment 7224463
I don't think that will work with the RT90C. The RT90C is an oddball because the main opening is allegedly 100mm (even though it didn't work with the TA4) only the bowl adapter is 75mm.... unless I'm missing something.

For those of us that cheaped out and bought the RT90C, I think the only options are to run a RRS Ballhead, threaded Anvil, or universal leveling base.... unless you want to use a TA3 with the RT90C's 75mm bowl adapter.

Thank you for your response. Pretty nice of you considering we are talking about CHICOM tripod legs and trying to use RRS products with them.
 
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pell1203

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I don't think that will work with the RT90C. The RT90C is an oddball because the main opening is allegedly 100mm (even though it didn't work with the TA4) only the bowl adapter is 75mm.... unless I'm missing something.
I believe the default when you buy the package with the leveling base is to include the 75mm bowl adapter. However, you do have the option, depending on where you get it, to request the 100mm bowl adapter instead of the 75mm.

I did not get the 100mm bowl adapter but I understand that you still need the adapter to use the tripod with 100mm accessories as the tripod itself is not setup to accept 100mm accessories without using the adapter.
 

Diver160651

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