Has anyone added weight to their Bravo?

atomic41

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As the title says...thinking about adding weight and wondering if anyone has done it yet.

I set up a PRS rifle with the Nucleus, in 6.5C and ran one match so far. It's a shooter and I really like the Bravo but it's so light weight that I'm not a fan of the recoil. It's just enough that I can't always see my hits/misses.

I'm not asking for a discussion about buying a heavy chassis or shooting techniques, I'm looking for a discussion about adding weight to the Bravo. Has anyone done it, or have experience adding weight to a different stock or chassis and willing to share?

Cheers
 
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tomcatfan

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It's funny you should ask. I took off the buttplate and filled the lower cavity with 357 lead bullets. I did it for balance and it worked really well. I intend to shoot mostly from the prone position so I didn't care about the extra weight.
 

260284

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Does it look like you can add weight in the forend also? I am looking at the Bravo for my dedicated match rifle.
 

SuperSneakySniper

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Im suprised nobody makes weights that attaches to the forend via rail or something for this very purpose. They have rail weights for competition handguns. I find the front of my rifle heavy though, and would prefer to add weight to the back. Running a long barrel or thick contour kind of settles the muzzle down enough.
 

atomic41

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My buddy Scott Whitehead just sent me a message yesterday about him making weighted spacers for the rear section of the W3/xray/bravo.
Well there you go, that's what I was looking for! Good idea on a less permanent way of adding weight. Thanks for sharing, I'm going to play with this idea now.
 
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RFutch

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I put lead round balls in my .308. Added 2 lbs. filled the grip, butthook, and recoil pad area. I put the lead in small zip lock bags to fill in the dead space and keep them from rolling around and making noise.
 
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Niles Coyote

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I spoke to two fellow competitors at my last match about that stock and both had added weight for better ballance. That was the only negative thing they had to say about the bravo. I don't recall how they did it now, but it didn't sound like it was difficult.
 
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southerngolfer

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so I've been messing with my bravo for a couple weeks now. I switched from my manners to the Bravo for the match rifle. I guess I like the ergonomics a little better. so far, I've tried shotgun shot, adhesive wheel weights, back to shotgun shot. I lined the grip, butthook, and butt cavities (lol) with Saran wrap. filled each with #8 shot, covered the top with the wrap and sealed it back up. now for the forehand. on the aluminum chassis, under the plastic hand guard, I started with wheel weights from harbor freight. I was able to stick 15 1/2oz weights and then the hand guard kept them in place. went to balance it on my practice barricade, dry fired it a few times. I wanted more weight to the fore end. as of right now, I have a Remington Varmint contour, so until I burn out my barrel and move to a heavier profile, I'm using it. under the barrel in the chassis, I was able to place 3 more 1/2 oz weights, but still wanted more front end weight. I took off the 15 weights. stuck double sided tape on aluminum, lined the under channel with shipping saran wrap, like a burrito, filled with #8 shot, covered the top. applied some tape, started under the double sided tape, came over the top of the shot, then back under the tape on other side. I still want more front end weight.... last option is going to academy today, looking at their duck decoys lead weights. I remembered they were super soft so I thought I would cut/shape them to the entire bottom chassis under hand guard, but we'll see
 

RyanM

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I have had this idea for awhile but have not got around to starting it yet.

I think more weight is great most of the time but maybe not all of the time. I was thinking of buying a cheap Arca clamp off of amazon and a 5LB scuba diving weight. You can slide it around the length of the rail and if you ever have to shoot an off hand stage or trek your rifle really far you can just spin it off.

Lots of cool ideas in here though.
 

SuperSneakySniper

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so I've been messing with my bravo for a couple weeks now. I switched from my manners to the Bravo for the match rifle. I guess I like the ergonomics a little better. so far, I've tried shotgun shot, adhesive wheel weights, back to shotgun shot. I lined the grip, butthook, and butt cavities (lol) with Saran wrap. filled each with #8 shot, covered the top with the wrap and sealed it back up. now for the forehand. on the aluminum chassis, under the plastic hand guard, I started with wheel weights from harbor freight. I was able to stick 15 1/2oz weights and then the hand guard kept them in place. went to balance it on my practice barricade, dry fired it a few times. I wanted more weight to the fore end. as of right now, I have a Remington Varmint contour, so until I burn out my barrel and move to a heavier profile, I'm using it. under the barrel in the chassis, I was able to place 3 more 1/2 oz weights, but still wanted more front end weight. I took off the 15 weights. stuck double sided tape on aluminum, lined the under channel with shipping saran wrap, like a burrito, filled with #8 shot, covered the top. applied some tape, started under the double sided tape, came over the top of the shot, then back under the tape on other side. I still want more front end weight.... last option is going to academy today, looking at their duck decoys lead weights. I remembered they were super soft so I thought I would cut/shape them to the entire bottom chassis under hand guard, but we'll see
You replaced your Manners with a Bravo?? I was tossing ideas around either getting a Manners or saving money and getting a Bravo, now this statement has me stooped.
Do you think they are at all comparable as far as comfort/handling goes?
 

southerngolfer

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You replaced your Manners with a Bravo?? I was tossing ideas around either getting a Manners or saving money and getting a Bravo, now this statement has me stooped.
Do you think they are at all comparable as far as comfort/handling goes?
The main reason I switch was the NV rail up front. I know u can get it embedded in the manners but u better do that when being built. I’m using the rail bc I’m been more comfortable shooting with me grabbing the rail up front for stability. I like the more vertical grip too. U can always start with the bravo, sell it and upgrade later. I don’t think I’m sacrificing anything at this switch. I haven’t shot a match after switching but practice has me more steady so far
 

260284

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The main reason I switch was the NV rail up front. I know u can get it embedded in the manners but u better do that when being built. I’m using the rail bc I’m been more comfortable shooting with me grabbing the rail up front for stability. I like the more vertical grip too. U can always start with the bravo, sell it and upgrade later. I don’t think I’m sacrificing anything at this switch. I haven’t shot a match after switching but practice has me more steady so far
Did you go with the enclosed forend, or an add on NV rail?
 

mikehotel

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I too, pulled the butt pad off and added enough lead to make it balance just ahead of the magazine.
 

SuperSneakySniper

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Ive got an M24 contour now, so i feel like itd be really front heavy for me. Id probably want to just add a little rear weight. Any of you guys super front heavy?
 

kabarNC

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Does it look like you can add weight in the forend also? I am looking at the Bravo for my dedicated match rifle.
Not a Bravo, but I have 2 XRay chassis with the Ingenuity Gunworks rails on. To get them to mate up nice to the forend, I had aluminum blocks machined to fill the void in between backbone and polymer skin. Combined with the actual rail, these spacers make my rifle balance perfectly and adds a bit of heft to the front.

20180718_125806.jpg

20180504_195012.jpg
 
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SuperSneakySniper

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Not a Bravo, but I have 2 XRay chassis with the Ingenuity Gunworks rails on. To get them to mate up nice to the forend, I had aluminum blocks machined to fill the void in between backbone and polymer skin. Combined with the actual rail, these spacers make my rifle balance perfectly and adds a bit of heft to the front.

View attachment 6946075

View attachment 6946080
I was curious about how that rail fixed onto the KRG chassis. How do you like the rail? Do they make the aluminum inserts? Also, do you feel its too heavy out front, and too light in the back? It looks like the stainless barrel is a heavy contour!
 

kabarNC

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I was curious about how that rail fixed onto the KRG chassis. How do you like the rail? Do they make the aluminum inserts? Also, do you feel its too heavy out front, and too light in the back? It looks like the stainless barrel is a heavy contour!

I have never messed with any other arca rails so cant compare, but I love this rail, specifically the barricade blocks. For me they are more stable than a game changer bag and way faster to set up on a barricade (they adjust to fit any width, with a push button and divots every .25" on the rail to lock into), and no messing around with hauling bags from position to position.

Yes, Paul Poindexter at Ingenuity made me these inserts. It's not on the website, but call him up, hes a great guy and you may be able to talk him into making you some, hes obviously got the dimensions now.

Where you see the rifle on the barricade is where it naturally balances, just what I wanted. The blocks lock it on, and it's stupid solid. Barrel pictured is a 22" Heavy Palma w/ Harvester can.

Edit to add, aluminum spacer is secured to the backbone by 2 bolts, this involves drilling holes in the backbone, and the aluminum filler block has threaded holes to bolt into. Rail is fixed to the block by drilling 2 holes thru the skin to line up with the threaded holes on the bottom side of the spacer block.
 

SuperSneakySniper

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I have never messed with any other arca rails so cant compare, but I love this rail, specifically the barricade blocks. For me they are more stable than a game changer bag and way faster to set up on a barricade (they adjust to fit any width, with a push button and divots every .25" on the rail to lock into), and no messing around with hauling bags from position to position.

Yes, Paul Poindexter at Ingenuity made me these inserts. It's not on the website, but call him up, hes a great guy and you may be able to talk him into making you some, hes obviously got the dimensions now.

Where you see the rifle on the barricade is where it naturally balances, just what I wanted. The blocks lock it on, and it's stupid solid. Barrel pictured is a 22" Heavy Palma w/ Harvester can.

Edit to add, aluminum spacer is secured to the backbone by 2 bolts, this involves drilling holes in the backbone, and the aluminum filler block has threaded holes to bolt into. Rail is fixed to the block by drilling 2 holes thru the skin to line up with the threaded holes on the bottom side of the spacer block.
Just the info i needed! Thanks! I'll look into this. Im eyeballing a KRG Bravo or Xray for my next rig.

PS: The blue accent is sick! Did you just take the aluminum backbone somewhere to be re-anodized?
 

kabarNC

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Just the info i needed! Thanks! I'll look into this. Im eyeballing a KRG Bravo or Xray for my next rig.

PS: The blue accent is sick! Did you just take the aluminum backbone somewhere to be re-anodized?
Lol I actually lucked out and won a Short Action Customs rebarrel certificate at a Guardian match a year ago and felt bad for them doing everything for free, and had always wanted a blue accented rifle, so I said what the heck and had them cerakote the backbone, trigger guard and bolt handle NRA Blue.
 

SuperSneakySniper

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Lol I actually lucked out and won a Short Action Customs rebarrel certificate at a Guardian match a year ago and felt bad for them doing everything for free, and had always wanted a blue accented rifle, so I said what the heck and had them cerakote the backbone, trigger guard and bolt handle NRA Blue.
Good call! Makes me wanna try it in red!
 
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260284

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Not a Bravo, but I have 2 XRay chassis with the Ingenuity Gunworks rails on. To get them to mate up nice to the forend, I had aluminum blocks machined to fill the void in between backbone and polymer skin. Combined with the actual rail, these spacers make my rifle balance perfectly and adds a bit of heft to the front.

View attachment 6946075

View attachment 6946080
What caliber is the Tikka? I run a CTR in a GGS, but my next build is going to be a dedicated match rifle on a Tikka action and am considering a Bravo. Looking at the BR family of calibers.
 

J-Ham

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Justin, you know if you'd made the chassis heavier, we would've bitched because it wasn't light enough & wouldn't work for our hunting, truck, do-all match rifles, haha! I suppose it's better to be light & let people figure out how to add the weight back in to suit their needs... Keep up the good work, dudes.
 

kabarNC

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What caliber is the Tikka? I run a CTR in a GGS, but my next build is going to be a dedicated match rifle on a Tikka action and am considering a Bravo. Looking at the BR family of calibers.

Tikka is a 6.5 Creedmoor. Picked that because it seems i have time to either load ammo, or go shoot, and not both. It loves Hornady 147 ELDM factory ammo..
 

Massoud

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Justin, you know if you'd made the chassis heavier, we would've bitched because it wasn't light enough & wouldn't work for our hunting, truck, do-all match rifles, haha! I suppose it's better to be light & let people figure out how to add the weight back in to suit their needs... Keep up the good work, dudes.
hahaha you may be right there.
 

atomic41

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hahaha you may be right there.
He is right, I really like the Bravo and don't mind adding weight to tame recoil a bit more. It's better than trying to take away weight, I'll get it right where I want it.
 

RFutch

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I’m also glad it’s light. I can take the weight out when I’m hunting with my 308. No weights in my 223 bravo it’s perfect. 😃
 

southerngolfer

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You guys are killing me, we worked hard to get the weight out of the chassis, haha!
Scott's steel buttpad spacers seem to be working for him. We sent him the profile so they should match up and look nice as well.

At any rate, we sure appreciate you guys' business.
Justin
Hey Justin, besides the modularity and ease of adjustments, am I sacrificing anything precision wise with the bravo vs x-ray/w-3? Backbone the same? Is there more aluminum in the higher end models?
Thanks again
 

dannySH

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Hey Justin, besides the modularity and ease of adjustments, am I sacrificing anything precision wise with the bravo vs x-ray/w-3? Backbone the same? Is there more aluminum in the higher end models?
Thanks again
I can't speak for the W3 but for the X-Ray. Backbone is the same and I like the ergonomics of the Bravo way more than the X-Ray. In fact I bought a Bravo butstock and installed on my X-Ray backbone converting the X-Ray on a Bravo.
 

southerngolfer

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I can't speak for the W3 but for the X-Ray. Backbone is the same and I like the ergonomics of the Bravo way more than the X-Ray. In fact I bought a Bravo butstock and installed on my X-Ray backbone converting the X-Ray on a Bravo.
Perfect, thank u
 

southerngolfer

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Alright gentleman, this is my final product after messing around with going back and forth for 2 weeks. Adding weight to rear, grip, and butthook, I lined the cavity with Saran Wrap and took #8 shot from shotgun shells, and covered it with excess Saran Wrap. As for the fore end, I went from adhesive wheel weights, to double sided tape and Saran wrapped #8 shot, to now and ending with lead decoy weights from academy. 3.5 oz each strip and had to trim to fit accordingly. Good thing with this lead, it’s soft enough to cut.
 

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johaneriksson

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Alright gentleman, this is my final product after messing around with going back and forth for 2 weeks. Adding weight to rear, grip, and butthook, I lined the cavity with Saran Wrap and took #8 shot from shotgun shells, and covered it with excess Saran Wrap. As for the fore end, I went from adhesive wheel weights, to double sided tape and Saran wrapped #8 shot, to now and ending with lead decoy weights from academy. 3.5 oz each strip and had to trim to fit accordingly. Good thing with this lead, it’s soft enough to cut.
How much weight did you add totally?
 

Massoud

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Hey Justin, besides the modularity and ease of adjustments, am I sacrificing anything precision wise with the bravo vs x-ray/w-3? Backbone the same? Is there more aluminum in the higher end models?
Thanks again
As mentioned above, there is no difference that would affect accuracy. Starting a couple months ago, all chassis started shipping with the same backbone. Before that, the Bravo was different but it was just less costly detail machining but still nothing that would affect accuracy.

Thank you!
Justin
 

southerngolfer

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As mentioned above, there is no difference that would affect accuracy. Starting a couple months ago, all chassis started shipping with the same backbone. Before that, the Bravo was different but it was just less costly detail machining but still nothing that would affect accuracy.

Thank you!
Justin
Thank you sir.
 

Jack Master

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I built a Tikka CTR in a Bravo Chassis. I added weight to the frame in 2 places, the forend and the butt plate shims. I have a very good machinist friend that help me out this this. If anyone would like the Drawings I would be happy to share.

I had 3 goals with this weight system.
1. I wanted to be able to add and remove the weigh to fit the mission. If I go shoot P-dogs with is I will add the weight, If I have to pack the rifle I can make it light. Since the Bravo is designed to be light, why not keep the option?
2. To be able to Balance the rifle in front of the mag well. Once I shoot this barrel out and re-barrel it, I still want to rebalance it.
3. To add support to the extended arca rail. I ordered the long rail with the Bravo but found it has to much flex when the bi-pod is mounted on the cantilever section when preloading.

The system has 3 weights I can add. The first is a weight mount bar. This bar slides into the forend frame under the handgaurd and is attached to the chassis by the 4 mounting screws for the spigot. The second is a front weight that gets attached to the mounting bar. The third are steel shims in the butt plate. My intention is to always leave the mounting bar under the handrail in place and balance the rifle with the but plate shims.

Weights:
11.9lbs - Rifle stand alone ( Tikka CTR Factory rifle 6.5 Creed. Vortex AMG, Bravo Chassis with extended arca rail, Patriot Valley arms Jet Blast Muzzle break. no mag or ammo, No Ckye Bi-pod)
19lbs - rifle, bi-pod and full weight set. (ckye bi-pod - 1.46lbs)
I was able to add 5.64lbs of weights , plus 1.46lb bi-pod = 7.1lbs total added.

Balance point
1 - light setup, no bipod. The rifle balances with the weight bar added and no rear shims.
2. Light setup with Bipod. The rifle needed two rear shims added. Wt = 16lbs. This is an Ideal weight for me.
3. Full weight added, no Bipod. The rifle needed 3 rear shim plates.
4. Full weight with Bipod(far out). With 3 rear shims the rifle balanced about 2 inches in front of the mag well.

I won't say this is prettiest thing in the world but it sure did work. I will get it Blued (black) this supper.

10 Full rifle.jpg

More Photos:
2 Total Weight system.jpg 3. Weight Mount install.jpg 6. Weight mount with forend.jpg 7 Full weight installed.jpg 8 Full weight installed.jpg 9 weight supporting arca rail.jpg 11 Balanced.jpg
 

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atomic41

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I built a Tikka CTR in a Bravo Chassis. I added weight to the frame in 2 places, the forend and the butt plate shims. I have a very good machinist friend that help me out this this. If anyone would like the Drawings I would be happy to share.

I had 3 goals with this weight system.
1. I wanted to be able to add and remove the weigh to fit the mission. If I go shoot P-dogs with is I will add the weight, If I have to pack the rifle I can make it light. Since the Bravo is designed to be light, why not keep the option?
2. To be able to Balance the rifle in front of the mag well. Once I shoot this barrel out and re-barrel it, I still want to rebalance it.
3. To add support to the extended arca rail. I ordered the long rail with the Bravo but found it has to much flex when the bi-pod is mounted on the cantilever section when preloading.

The system has 3 weights I can add. The first is a weight mount bar. This bar slides into the forend frame under the handgaurd and is attached to the chassis by the 4 mounting screws for the spigot. The second is a front weight that gets attached to the mounting bar. The third are steel shims in the butt plate. My intention is to always leave the mounting bar under the handrail in place and balance the rifle with the but plate shims.

Weights:
11.9lbs - Rifle stand alone ( Tikka CTR Factory rifle 6.5 Creed. Vortex AMG, Bravo Chassis with extended arca rail, Patriot Valley arms Jet Blast Muzzle break. no mag or ammo, No Ckye Bi-pod)
19lbs - rifle, bi-pod and full weight set. (ckye bi-pod - 1.46lbs)
I was able to add 5.64lbs of weights , plus 1.46lb bi-pod = 7.1lbs total added.

Balance point
1 - light setup, no bipod. The rifle balances with the weight bar added and no rear shims.
2. Light setup with Bipod. The rifle needed two rear shims added. Wt = 16lbs. This is an Ideal weight for me.
3. Full weight added, no Bipod. The rifle needed 3 rear shim plates.
4. Full weight with Bipod(far out). With 3 rear shims the rifle balanced about 2 inches in front of the mag well.

I won't say this is prettiest thing in the world but it sure did work. I will get it Blued (black) this supper.

View attachment 7022646

More Photos:
View attachment 7022637View attachment 7022638View attachment 7022641View attachment 7022642View attachment 7022644View attachment 7022645View attachment 7022647
Very nicely done!
 

Chaseerickson12

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Mar 21, 2013
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Alright gentleman, this is my final product after messing around with going back and forth for 2 weeks. Adding weight to rear, grip, and butthook, I lined the cavity with Saran Wrap and took #8 shot from shotgun shells, and covered it with excess Saran Wrap. As for the fore end, I went from adhesive wheel weights, to double sided tape and Saran wrapped #8 shot, to now and ending with lead decoy weights from academy. 3.5 oz each strip and had to trim to fit accordingly. Good thing with this lead, it’s soft enough to cut.
What’s with the Saran Wrap?
 

Jcarpenter223

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Oct 26, 2018
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Oklahoma City, OK
I built a Tikka CTR in a Bravo Chassis. I added weight to the frame in 2 places, the forend and the butt plate shims. I have a very good machinist friend that help me out this this. If anyone would like the Drawings I would be happy to share.

I had 3 goals with this weight system.
  1. I wanted to be able to add and remove the weigh to fit the mission. If I go shoot P-dogs with is I will add the weight, If I have to pack the rifle I can make it light. Since the Bravo is designed to be light, why not keep the option?
  2. To be able to Balance the rifle in front of the mag well. Once I shoot this barrel out and re-barrel it, I still want to rebalance it.
  3. To add support to the extended arca rail. I ordered the long rail with the Bravo but found it has to much flex when the bi-pod is mounted on the cantilever section when preloading.

The system has 3 weights I can add. The first is a weight mount bar. This bar slides into the forend frame under the handgaurd and is attached to the chassis by the 4 mounting screws for the spigot. The second is a front weight that gets attached to the mounting bar. The third are steel shims in the butt plate. My intention is to always leave the mounting bar under the handrail in place and balance the rifle with the but plate shims.

Weights:
11.9lbs - Rifle stand alone ( Tikka CTR Factory rifle 6.5 Creed. Vortex AMG, Bravo Chassis with extended arca rail, Patriot Valley arms Jet Blast Muzzle break. no mag or ammo, No Ckye Bi-pod)
19lbs - rifle, bi-pod and full weight set. (ckye bi-pod - 1.46lbs)
I was able to add 5.64lbs of weights , plus 1.46lb bi-pod = 7.1lbs total added.

Balance point
1 - light setup, no bipod. The rifle balances with the weight bar added and no rear shims.
  1. Light setup with Bipod. The rifle needed two rear shims added. Wt = 16lbs. This is an Ideal weight for me.
  2. Full weight added, no Bipod. The rifle needed 3 rear shim plates.
  3. Full weight with Bipod(far out). With 3 rear shims the rifle balanced about 2 inches in front of the mag well.

I won't say this is prettiest thing in the world but it sure did work. I will get it Blued (black) this supper.

View attachment 7022646

More Photos:
View attachment 7022637View attachment 7022638View attachment 7022641View attachment 7022642View attachment 7022644View attachment 7022645View attachment 7022647
I like that idea. Well done. Ive mauled over all kinds of chassis and i keep coming back to the krg. I like being able to remove the weight.
 
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