Better start caging up.

Gunfighter14e2

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The time is drawing near where if your shit is not caged, it's not going to survive whats coming. More an more rumblings of people caging up all kinds of spares as well as large backup stuff. Seems there is a run on gas/kerosene freg's, freezers, older(pre 74's) trucks/cars an analog metering. The old reed style hertz meters, rocking VR's, HYD & Mech. gov's are bringing large money. Old Brush style gen's are the rage now. The kind of people buying up, are not your average tinfoil types.
 

Sean the Nailer

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Wise advice, but unfortunately most of that will be lost on the average citizen. Actually, that is not unfortunate at all because that in itself will be a MAJOR "side-choosing" process, right there.

:D
 

W54/XM-388

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For those that don't have a lot of resources, would putting said stuff in a non conductive box or plastic case then wrapping it well in mesh or similar conductive foil and then making sure it is insulated from touching something grounding it work okay?

I'm assuming the problem with most safes folks have is that they are touching the ground or are bolted into the ground so I'm guessing that kind of makes them a lot less effective at being a decent shield than if they were sitting on a big insulator pad?
 

W54/XM-388

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As a quick additional question have you seen any tests on how the electronic safe locks react to a potential "event" either man made or natural or combined? It seems harder and harder to find mechanical safes these days because electronic ones are "quicker".
 

Gunfighter14e2

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For those that don't have a lot of resources, would putting said stuff in a non conductive box or plastic case then wrapping it well in mesh or similar conductive foil and then making sure it is insulate d from touching something grounding it work okay?

I'm assuming the problem with most safes folks have is that they are touching the ground or are bolted into the ground so I'm guessing that kind of makes them a lot less effective at being a decent shield than if they were sitting on a big insulator pad?
Yes that will work but remember every opening has to be sealed so the full wave form can not enter. One of the cheapest cages is a 100% metal trash can, metal job box, ect. Every opening/mfg crimp ect has to be sealed, an that can be done with conductive Foil tape. Lowes has a few different brands, the cheapest one works the best, an it does not have the MFG's name on the foil, The 3m is worthless for this. (If in doubt about your choice take your ohm meter with you an test it.) Make sure the tape is applied to bare metal not paint so the conductivity is there. If using a all metal cage make sure what your wanting to protect does not touch the cage metal inside at all. Many people are buying job boxes from H/D an Lowes just for this, they hold a lot, easy to cage an uncage to get to your stuff. One word of caution, just because one or more pops an takes down everything, don't run & repair right away, as a good tactic would be to bang another just as some stuff was up an running. Wait awhile before bring stuff back to life.
On last thing, there is quit a bit of debate about unplugging what your not using right then. Many I hold in high regard seem to think most things (none computer or IC controlled will ride thru if they are taken out of the discharge path completely.

As a quick additional question have you seen any tests on how the electronic safe locks react to a potential "event" either man made or natural or combined? It seems harder and harder to find mechanical safes these days because electronic ones are "quicker".
A safe sucks as a cage unless all openings are sealed an conductive. Every opening, bolt down holes, doors, electrical pass threw ect. Electronic locks will fry an if that's your only way in, you better know how to peel it to get your shit out. Some safes have a day lock that is keyed, an some have a weird key encase the electronic fails completely. I like these the best. The tumbler style while slow, are best in the long run, save the weird harded keyed ones.
 

W54/XM-388

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It will be interesting to see when exactly it happens.
The Bible verse goes "Pray that your flight be not in winter, neither on the Sabbath day" but in my case, winter & the Sabbath day would probably be the best time for me and possibly lots of others around these parts to have the maximum survival chance.
 

antithesis

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My understanding is whatever you are using for storage, be it trash can or otherwise, needs to be grounded. Just what I have read in published articles.
 

Gunfighter14e2

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Based on some tests we have ran, I think a lot of gear that is not working/powered up, will survive. We H/P'ed (High Potted) some second gen Ford & GM spark systems an was surprised to learn most of them still worked. Point systems will be a none issue as well as the older DC generators. The newer Alternators all failed, but with a heavy pot, we made a manual V/R an used a 12Vdc bulb as a indicator for correct voltage. It worked almost like a carb choke as to operation.
 

Gunfighter14e2

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My understanding is whatever you are using for storage, be it trash can or otherwise, needs to be grounded. Just what I have read in published articles.
Lots of mixed on that out there, but I'll never ground my cages. The only thing I do different than most is make sure fresh desiccant is added at each closure.
 

E. Bryant

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Based on some tests we have ran, I think a lot of gear that is not working/powered up, will survive. We H/P'ed (High Potted) some second gen Ford & GM spark systems an was surprised to learn most of them still worked.
If this event ever comes to pass, I think that people will be pleasantly surprised at the survival rate of automotive electronics. Load dump, conducted immunity, radiated immunity, and ESD testing is no joke. Of course, it will be rather difficult to enjoy the I-told-you-so.
 

uffduh

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Who’s meant to be th me threat? China? Russia? Or some environmental thing like a solar flare?
 

Sean the Nailer

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I know that I have more learning to do, as well as more preparations to make. But it IS happening, slowly but surely. Storing portable radios in an old microwave IS or IS NOT a good idea? If so, plugged in (grounded) or not grounded?

The way my brain works, I'm thinking grounding is a good idea, but it seems that you are saying not to..... am I right?
 

Gunfighter14e2

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I know that I have more learning to do, as well as more preparations to make. But it IS happening, slowly but surely. Storing portable radios in an old microwave IS or IS NOT a good idea? If so, plugged in (grounded) or not grounded?

The way my brain works, I'm thinking grounding is a good idea, but it seems that you are saying not to..... am I right?
First, depending the EMP's full wave forms length, a microwave may or may not work as a cage. I use nothing but a full metal enclosure that I can seal the access opening easily with foil tape. You can get different sizes of Copper Mesh Here. Grounding a cage depends on how big the cage is to me. I have no cages grounded at this time an one is fairly large. One thing to think about is never put all your eggs into one basket, spread things around at all points of the compass. When shit goes sideways Murphy always shows up, so keep all roads open to what you consider as last resort stuff, an como is one of those things to be deep in, even if your just gathering info most/all of the time. If you have to use the radio, be very brief an very vague to out right lying to those who you can't vet. RX'ing will get you farther, but never be one source, trusting.
 
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