Ar15 lube

deersniper

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What’s everyone use? A little grease on the lugs and hammer/sear interface? And a drop if oil on the pins?
 

The DFC

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I've been using G96 stuff now for cleaning and lubing. Gun Treatment for cleaning barrel/upper, Bio CLP for lubing lugs, bolt, extractor etc, and Bore solvent for Cu fouling. I also use Bore Tech Eliminator for barrels. Hoppes is still the best for removing Carbon fouling from my bolt-so I still use that. I've got a bunch of Lucas oil lube too I use on BCGs.
 

nn8734

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I use some stuff called TW25B made by Mil Comm on the BCG, etc seems to work well. A little oil in the trigger surfaces and on the pins.

Also use Bore Tech Eliminator to clean the barrel. I clean my stainless barrels every ~50ish rounds and chrome lined every 200 or so.
 

The DFC

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I use some stuff called TW25B made by Mil Comm on the BCG, etc seems to work well. A little oil in the trigger surfaces and on the pins.

Also use Bore Tech Eliminator to clean the barrel. I clean my stainless barrels every ~50ish rounds and chrome lined every 200 or so.

Are guys talking about the take down pins? Just curious-I've never lubed that.
 
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Snuby642

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So many products to choose from, most work well.

In all my years I have had 4 failures due to lubricants, 2 shotgun and 2 ar.

None of them were when using a hoppes product.

My father and grandfather tought me to clean guns in the 1960's and used hoppes.

Not arguing the best product, but am done testing and getting poor and inconsistant results.

Imho

 
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pmclaine

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Generally use some sort of grease - TW25B or Cherry Balmz.

Took it out of the work truck on a mid teens day and was having a lot of failures to feed.

Never really had cold issues before with my own ARs but they live a pampered life of living in a safe than maybe spending 7-8 hours in a car before they are shot.

My "cold sinked" AR that spends 24/7 in the vehicle certainly exhibited problems with grease lubes.

Now that AR is running Slip 2000 EWL - oil - at least through the winter.
 
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shoobe01

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I use Ballistol now. Lots of choices, almost hardly matters what you use:

As
Long
As
You
Use
It

Liberally.

For a recent example of dozens I have personally witnessed: Had some guns issued out to us the other weekend for an EX (instead of being able to use our guns... don't ask), and they ALL failed, badly, until we broke out our lubes and sprayed them down. Too dry as issued, didn't work. Literally zero cleaning or maint, just three squirts of lube*, cycle it half a dozen times to spread it out, reload and then even in 5°F weather, they all ran like a top.

(A few lubes are iffy, some or all greases are no good in very cold weather, but I'll not argue specifics myself, as long as you lube it a lot, and regularly).


* 1) BC locked back, up the magwell 2) Bolt forward, open the gun, spray bottom of BC 3) Spray on end of buffer.
 
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ReaperMedic

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I use Slip2000 for my AR and Glock. It runs in the cold, hot, and has no issues being dirty. Just give it plenty.



@shoobe01 in regards to those rifles, the owner was warned. Instead of the armorer's advice, he went with how it was done down south at "the other place."
 
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Longshot231

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When I was in the national guard and they felt like we didn't have enough to do, they made us clean every weapon in the armory.

The dehumidifier also had a habit of breaking with the brown barrel effect on the M-16s.

It seemed that for a while, we were cleaning weapons every drill weekend. I put mine away wet with oil.

One day the armorer told me to wipe off the oil. When I refused, he asked me why.

I told him, "Have you noticed that I'm the only one whose M-16 doesn't turn brown?"

He didn't say anything and took my weapon back to the rack.

BTW, I like the Mil-Comm grease on the BCG. Works fine and runs a long time.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/lubricant-protectant-oils/mil-comm-weapons-grease-prod24410.aspx
 

loveha

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pmclaine

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Like this stuff but it's what I removed from my frozen rifle.

Think they sell a LW version don't they?
 

Snuby642

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My sons both came back home from the sand lots telling me to run them dry.

Difference is .mil was paying for thier replacement parts and I have to make mine last.
 
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10ring'r

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Mobil 1, as mentioned before w/ a touch of syn. grease, here and there. Used this for 7 years w/ no malf. and it cleans up nicely. Mac
 

Longshot231

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Wonder how something like this would work on the bcg?

I tried that stuff with another brand for another application and it sucked.

It was so "dry" nothing would move. I'd be afraid of it turning my AR-15 into a single shot rifle.
 

loveha

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If I remember right, compared to other lubes I have used, CLP has less viscosity and burns/dries up to quick. Cleaning / Lubricating / Protectant. Jack of all trades, master of none. Would rather use motor oil.

If I was still in and know what I know now, I would be using my own cleaners and lubes. Of course would have to disguise it in another bottle so the caged animals in the armory wouldn't see.
 

Gtscotty

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I use Slip 2k EWL or Lucas Extreme duty gun oil and run the bolt a bit wet. Both have worked well for me down to 0 degrees and seem to make the bolt easier to clean (my ARs are always run suppressed). I like Hornady One Shot for cleaning and lubing the trigger.
 
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pmclaine

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I keep telling myself to go to Autozone and pick up a quart of the best synthetic diesel rated 5W-30 typ oil there is.

Deisels create way more pressure/heat/combustion and dirty fuel wastes than an AR for a longer period of time.

Got to think the detergent package lube properties would be pretty good.

1 quart = lifetime supply.

My preference for grease over oil though is grease doesnt fly all over my face/glasses while firing.
 

Tono

And...
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For cleaning the trigger and the trigger well, I've found that this works best. Electronic Contact Cleaner and Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube.

Prior to this, I simply used the oil provided by Geissele. Which is good. But I've found that the dry lube in the Hornady One Shot is better.

I also use Hornady One Shot in the shear package on my various pistols. No disassembly required. The spray flushes contaminants out and the spray dries leaving the lube and rust protection.

Electronic Contact Cleaner. Can be found at Amazon and Walmart.com for about $5.00
  • A petroleum distillate / alcohol based precision cleaner designed as an alternative to CFC based cleaners. Ideal for applications where lower flashpoint materials can be tolerated. Cost effective, plastic safe & residue free.
  • Circuit breakers, circuits, coin mechanisms, computer components, contacts, electronics, fiberglass, flux removal, sockets, lighting, plastics, nylon, plugs, relay switches, PVC, PTFE, tape heads, terminals.

Screen Shot 2020-01-20 at 10.30.52 PM.png



Another benefit of the CRC is that it is a spray and can flush some of the debris out of the trigger well.


After cleaning with CRC, I like to use Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube.

Hornady One Shot with DynaGlide Plus is a revolutionary formula developed to prevent firearm malfunctions caused by a buildup of lubricants and grime. The unique DynaGlide Plus formula cleans the actions of firearms and leaves a micro-thin layer of dry lubricant. Because One Shot is a dry, non-tacky lube, it smoothes actions and eliminates mechanical fouling due to powder and dirt adhering to the lubricant.

Screen Shot 2020-01-20 at 10.41.48 PM.png
 
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shoobe01

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Random notes:

"CLP" means Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant. It is not a specific product. Several of them end in CLP.

If you mean Break Free CLP (and many do as it was popular, Army issue, etc) the key think that makes it work is teflon. Well, TFE. Little flakes of it are inside the bottle. Usually, at the bottom. Toss a spare screw, ball bearing, something into the bottle as an agitator. Shake it every 10 seconds or so as you use it. Sprays are similar: shake regularly. If you do that, the lube part works longer, and it's not bad. Without that you are getting the C and P bits and it's no so great an L.

I shoot a good bit at a range that is on a floodplain. Had classes and matches there where it's all blowing dust. From fine sand (and sand burrs!) to talcum powder level stuff which I think is actually powdered clay as you have to wash it off with soap and water. Never seen any run-it-dry people do well. Wet, and re-apply halfway through the day or else. Have heard similar from most people I know who went on shooting trips in Kuwait, Iraq, Afghanistan, etc.

There are new lubes all the time. If anyone wants to try a dry one, there's this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U30TFAS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I am trying it on bikes after many reviews and a friend who is bike crazy did a long term competitive torture test of that, another dry long-term lube, and a wax (!). Now, it's for gears and chains and stuff, but it does work for that, in all wx, etc. so it might be worth a try.
 

NFAJohn

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I run a 10.5 DDmk18 100% suppressed and mobile one has been great. It will see 2-300 rounds between cleaning and by the time I pull it apart to clean it the bcg is gross, but the lube is still there despite using it sparingly. I use the 5 weight and it has worked well on my SBE2 in the duck blind as well.
 
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Belisarius

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tried all of the above. Had high hopes for weapon shield.
best one, leaving the least amount of buildup on the bolt and in the bolt carrier after 300 rounds,
RIG UNIVERSAL GUN GREASE. I was surprised for sure. Repeated the procedure 3 times in 2 AR15s.
 

KAIFS

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Otis Dry Lube on just about everything. Never do I run ANY of my weapons wet.
When temps here dip around below -15F - I switch to LAW...
 

TCKev

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Lucas Oil Extreme Duty Gun Oil liberally. I've seen the whole motor oil fad in USPSA and 3 gun. Motor oil was designed for motors not humans and guns. Gun oil is just not expensive enough not to use it.
 

BurnOut

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Funny that you ask, because I have recently gone down a rabbit hole of sorts in regard to this very thing. Before I get too deep into it, though, I will say that, as @Tono mentioned, CRC Electronics Cleaner has been my gold standard of degreasing products, for the reasons he mentions. Further, I have also been using Hornady One Shot in manners similar to what he describes.

That said, my current thinking, re: lubes is to use oils/greases that contain high amounts of molybdenum disulfide (MOS2) and/or graphite for the carrier and inside of the buffer tube, and an engine oil additive with a high level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphates (ZDDP) for the bolt/carrier bore. From the reading I've done, ZDDP leaves deposits/dry film lubricant behind as it wears.

I said all of the above to say this; for a build that I am finishing up now, the plan is to use a light coat of Jet Lube MP-50 on the inside of the upper and the exterior of the carrier, a healthy dollop of Slide Glide Heavy in the cam pin channel, a modest application of MP-50 on the bolt lugs, some of that high ZDDP oil additive on the bolt/in the bolt bore, and probably something like Machine Gunner's Lube on the inside of the buffer tube.

I freely admit that I'm likely overthinking the whole thing, but why the hell not... this is a hobby for me, and this is the kind of thing that I enjoy about it.
 
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10ring'r

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Maybe I'm the only one, but I run my bcg wet with Mobil 1 too. I just pour it in, cycle the action a few times and the first few shots blow oil all over .
Yeah, that's how I started using Mobil 1, BCG "wet", what a mistake that was, because I wear glass lensed glasses and I shoot a Rt. handed AR, Lt. handed and I get a face full, if I run mine wet. I only run my AR's "damp" now. I even run a "Gas Buster" CH, to help keep it minimized. Ever try to clean oil off of glass? A lot of shirt tails got stains on them, along with a lot of grumbling, LoL!
Mac:rolleyes:
 

Tono

And...
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Funny that you ask, because I have recently gone down a rabbit hole of sorts in regard to this very thing. Before I get too deep into it, though, I will say that, as @Tono mentioned, CRC Electronics Cleaner has been my gold standard of degreasing products, for the reasons he mentions. Further, I have also been using Hornady One Shot in manners similar to what he describes.

That said, my current thinking, re: lubes is to use oils/greases that contain high amounts of molybdenum disulfide (MOS2) and/or graphite for the carrier and inside of the buffer tube, and an engine oil additive with a high level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphates (ZDDP) for the bolt/carrier bore. From the reading I've done, ZDDP leaves deposits/dry film lubricant behind as it wears.

I said all of the above to say this; for a build that I am finishing up now, the plan is to use a light coat of Jet Lube MP-50 on the inside of the upper and the exterior of the carrier, a healthy dollop of Slide Glide Heavy in the cam pin channel, a modest application of MP-50 on the bolt lugs, some of that high ZDDP oil additive on the bolt/in the bolt bore, and probably something like Machine Gunner's Lube on the inside of the buffer tube.

I freely admit that I'm likely overthinking the whole thing, but why the hell not... this is a hobby for me, and this is the kind of thing that I enjoy about it.
That's a deep rabbit hole... I tend to over think things as well. And I agree, it's a lot of fun...

I have a friend that works at Lockheed in Fort Worth. He's told me that no moly products are allowed in the manufacturing area. Once it gets on a material, it's very difficult to get it off.

ZDDP sounds interesting. Should work well in/on the BCG, just don't use too much. Here's a good read: https://www.liveabout.com/debunking-the-motor-oil-additive-urban-legend-726162
 
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ddavis

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I've had great luck with any oil product I've tried including motor oil as long as it is kept very wet. Shot a two day match in 20-30 mph dust and just pulled the bolt and wiped down and oiled at lunch and at the end of each day. No failures. Racking the bolt sounded TERRIBLE but as long as it was oiled it worked.

-Dan
 

Snuby642

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Having ran guns in Phoenix area and Gila Bend bombing range for a couple of years I am familiar with sand and dust .

Texas has calichi dust that also turns to concrete mixed with oil or grease.
That mix will work for a while when hot, but one cold day and it's game over.
 

Strykervet

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CLP, it's fairly cheap and plentiful. When you start having to buy the shit in spray bottle and keep a Marsh brush full at all times, PLUS the shit on hand for small arms, lube gets costly and hair difference matter less.

That said, TW25B is the BEST shit I've ever used, hands down. That Slip shit ain't bad either but the TW25B lube and grease is the end all be all to weapons lubes if you ask me.

I used to use some grease on engagement surfaces but have since stopped since all it does is trap dirt and dust and suppressors make all this worse and you wind up with gritty grease. Oil will at least allow that shit to fall away and/or it can be washed out with more oil. I pretty much reserve the greases I have for building and tearing down. Buffer tubes and barrel nuts --but a tube of antisieze or white lithium works just as well. White Lithium is what the TM called for initially and LSA or CLP for everything else.

Technically CLP was designed so military weapons could be cleaned, lubed and protected with the one item. You aren't supposed to use anything but CLP IIRC, although at NTC they have/had a weapons cleaning shed that has those large oderless mineral spirit drums with metal sinks on top --parts washers. But idea is after they're washed they get the shit lubed out of them, then excess wiped down. Note CLP builds up over time, so if you're constantly washing it out you're defeating the purpose of it. I wish I'd been made privy of this sooner than I was. When used properly it really is the best out there IMO. Unless you have a bottomless budget for TW25B.

I don't like auto lubes, safety aside, and I figure they all loaded with teflon so one is as safe as the next I guess, but auto lubes just smell like shit and the rifle smells bad enough already...
 
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black5.3

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I use some grease on certain things but for the most part i use a “clp” type product as well as ballistol. I like the ballistol for when im doing a lot of AR stuff and i can just spray a little more on as it cooks off. Thats just for “lubes” i have plenty of other stuff for cleaning. Bores usually get a boretech product.