Anyone running dual band goggle setup?

wigwamitus

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I've used other 'tools" before and they work ok, depending on tolerance for scrapping black-ness off the parts :D
 

wigwamitus

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on my 14s I don't care, they have no warranty. But on the trijcon thermals, I'm still cogitating about less scrapifying methods.
 

PlinkIt

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I had o e that came off that way, but I have one the channel locks won't take off... It's not the same scenerio

I've tried getting midevil with the ring and channel locks, while holding the ocular adjustment area with my other hand and it's no where close to letting go. I mean to the point of deforming the ring that retains the eyecup
 

Frog05

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I had o e that came off that way, but I have one the channel locks won't take off... It's not the same scenerio

I've tried getting midevil with the ring and channel locks, while holding the ocular adjustment area with my other hand and it's no where close to letting go. I mean to the point of deforming the ring that retains the eyecup
Time to break out the problem solver! 😂
20200107_083231.jpg
 
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WhereNow&How

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I had o e that came off that way, but I have one the channel locks won't take off... It's not the same scenerio

I've tried getting midevil with the ring and channel locks, while holding the ocular adjustment area with my other hand and it's no where close to letting go. I mean to the point of deforming the ring that retains the eyecup
Yep, its a bitch sometimes when the builder loctites them dam eye cup retainers in. Try putting ice on just the retainer cup to shrink it down a little so maybe it will let go. Aluminum changes temp pretty fast. You might have to use several cubes of ice to get it cold enough to shrink to hopefully loosen it up enough so it will come on out.

I have had some tough ones to get out but usually the channel locks will do it while pretty much marring the sh^t out of the retainer cup. Once you get them out, make sure to take some alcohol and clean out the threads in the eyepiece of any remaining loctite. I typically clean the retainer cup threads well and once clean use them to lightly screw back in and out of the ocular threads with some alcohol to get the ocular threads good and clean. Kind of like re-tapping some threads to get them clean.

Once the ocular threads are clean, I never use loctite again. Also, to properly clean the ocular lens all the way out to the edges, you really need to remove the retainer cup so why the hell would a builder loctite them in other than to "babysit" a user that doesn't check his equipment enough to make sure that the retainer cups are good and hand tight.
 

WhereNow&How

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I use a combination of Sureshot SNR filers and Night Combat Solutions (glass) Amber filters. There are also some glass amber filters available from Switzerland, last I looked. I have two of the wilcox plastic filters, but they are fuzzy. The glass ones are crystal clear.
I agree Wig, the Wilcox Plastic Amber filter suck big time. I got 2 I need to donate to the Orphanage Home. LOL

Will, put out a good video. All his video's are very good and informative. I think these glass amber ones in his video run about $50 each. The guy he got these glass amber filters can be reached at:

clearambernight@gmail.com


 

wigwamitus

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... the Wilcox Plastic Amber filter suck big time ...
But I do like the rubber outer cups mine came with. I electric tape those to my patrol rear end sometimes to give my eye socket some "bump" protection.
 
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PlinkIt

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@WhereNow&How I'll try setting up up on an ice pack when I get home today and use the channel locks again

I twisted on it so hard yesterday that I was unscrewing the entire ocular assembly even though I was trying to hold it with my other hand. I'm going to take a small strap wrench to hold the ocular assembly and pray....

Back to dual subject... I tried putting a lif behind the breach to see what it would look like, and it turns the breach the freakiest shade of purple! The lif on the 14s actually looks pretty good I think though.

Any suggestions or thoughts for power supply mounted to back of the crye nightcap to feed the breach for long periods of time?
 

Rancid Coolaid

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Regarding power pack, any decent USB rechargeable battery will work, use a heavy one to offset more up front weight, or a lighter one to if running single or have other stuff as counterweight. I usually carry a few, one on helmet and a few others close by. Since decent rechargeable USB battery packs now cost about as much as a few CR123s, it is a good investment. And they last quite a bit longer.

I have a small velcro pouch on my helmet and can swap power supplies quickly.

Keep in mind, mine is not set up for door-kicking or 2-way ranges - or not purpose-built for that - so someone more high speed might see problems with my suggestions. But for my purposes, it works well.
 
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WhereNow&How

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Any suggestions or thoughts for power supply mounted to back of the crye nightcap to feed the breach for long periods of time?
I personally will do everything I can to reduce and/or eliminate power cables if at all reasonably possible. Snagging and wearing out the Micro-C Port on the Breach are possible hazards that will occur over time. All of that being said, I much more prefer to run the Mod Armory Breach Battery Extender. It offers outstanding run time of 5 hrs and takes but a second to switch out another battery.

So 2 Rechargable 16650 Batteries for a whole 10hr night out without having to deal with cables is so worth it to me.

 

wigwamitus

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I'm using battery extenders with pairs of 16650 rechargables with SNIPE and PATROL and it is way better than c123 or wires. And I get similar performance (6 hrs ish) in current temps 20F to 30F at night.
 
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Rancid Coolaid

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Actually, that does look like a good option, I was unaware that is a thing.

For reference, I have my cable zip-tied pretty closely to the whole setup, and I only ever unplug the USB end to swap batteries, not the USB-C end that goes into the Breach; but yes, that cable-to-device interface is indeed a protentional failure point.
 
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PlinkIt

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Was thinking the battery pack would make a better counter weight while also powering the unit ... But certainly seems like y'all have decided it's less than ideal already...

Pretty sure I'm going to be nose heavy (TATM, RQE bridge, oss shoe sets, and either 14/breach or 2x14s) so I'll just have to throw dead weight in the Velcro pack on the back I guess...
 

WhereNow&How

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Was thinking the battery pack would make a better counter weight while also powering the unit ... But certainly seems like y'all have decided it's less than ideal already...

Pretty sure I'm going to be nose heavy (TATM, RQE bridge, oss shoe sets, and either 14/breach or 2x14s) so I'll just have to throw dead weight in the Velcro pack on the back I guess...
I personally have never found batteries enough weight to counterweight my systems correctly. I stuff my counterweights primarily with lead weights and put my batteries in a more accessible area. I want a Night Cap or Helmet to always be balanced correctly for me and be as compact as possible. So putting loaded magazines, batteries and other consumables while a "good thought" just doesn't do it for me.
 
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wigwamitus

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Yup, get a box of lead to hang back there. For good balance the counterweight weight, should equal the front weight. This reduces strain on the helmet tensioning system and pressure on your head. And gives you an excellent way to exercise your neck muscles !! :LOL:
 
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WhereNow&How

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Wig, if anything, I like mine to be just a tiny, slight, tad "Skoosh" heavier in the back. It gives me this "Euphoric" feeling that my NOD's are kinda "floating" in front of me as if I am not even packing them. It is much easier and less stressful for your back neck muscles to kind of push down if need be than for front neck muscles to always be trying to lift up NOD's. That's my experience anyways.

I have slung a few pack loads (both Manties & Panniers) on mules and horses using Decker Pack Saddles and you learn a few things about balancing loads on animals that are working. LOL. We are all just "beasts of burden" one way or another. LOL

You pack a horse 60/40 front to back, whereas a mule is 50/50.
 

WhereNow&How

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So if I'm running my pony (nightcap) vs running a mule (helmet) are you guys doing anything different with weight?
I sewed and extra piece of Velcro on the Counterweight Pouch that Crye makes for the Night Cap so I could hang it lower. Point being you get more leverage that away.

I have to run to 2 EOG Little Big Man weights in mine when I am running dual PVS 14's or a PVS 14 and Breach.

I run a single Little Big Man if I am running just a single PVS 14 on the Night Cap.


 

wigwamitus

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On night cap, I use this ...

I've used the bridge both with dual/triple nodes or just with single/double nods ... but with the night cap in general, the less weight the better. Keeps the NODs from moving around.

Lightest dual config ... no counter-weight in this case ... just one 14 and a coti



==
This is with the bridge and some counterweight



The bridge is less wobbly than the usgi rhino/j-arm but heavier

==
 
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WhereNow&How

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Lightest dual config ... no counter-weight in this case ... just one 14 and a coti
Yep, the Night Cap with 14 and Coti is sure nough nice Night Ninja setup. I like to run that as well. It is almost like you have zero weight on your head compared to a fully decked out helmet with duals.
 

BamaSE

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Frog05's pic, showing patrol and pvs 14, eye pieces even. Should work on AKA2.

View attachment 7216866


NewGuys pic, eyepieces not even. Doesnt look like it will work with AKA2.

View attachment 7216867

@BamaSE

Can you post a pic of your unit, laid out like new guys. Give us an idea.
I need to give a shout out thank you to Frog05....back when my buddy and I were trying to figure this same setup out we were Googling how to do it and this picture popped up. My engineering buddy said that's what we need to try and that's how the idea came up to flip the arm on the Wilcox dual mount. After looking at the picture again I am certain it is the same picture we came across.
 
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StihlTech

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Sorry if this has been asked already but I have been following this thread and haven’t seen it. How is depth perception with running a NV and thermal side by side? Compared to say dual 14s or bino/goggle setup? I’m assuming it wouldn’t be quite as good as dual 14s but do you feel comfortable enough moving around, or is it better for more stationary, slow stalk type of situations. Tia
 

j-huskey

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I've used single and dual 14s several years. They are clearly better on depth perception in all circumstances. However, I do not want to run in the woods after a fleeing "thing" with any NV. Had no problems at 35-55 mph in a vehicle.

I've used thermal for less than NV, but have learned mine well enough to have depth perception with thermal, but not like NV perception.
Driving golf cart, walking on clear fields, and moving through open woods, I have reasonable depth perception that has been acceptable and so far, zero safety issue.
But, I do move slower.

Because the field of view is limited, in thermal, speed while moving is no go, worse on foot, horrible in rough close terrain.

Mixed dual nv with thermal, green nv and red lense thermal, my mind sees both, and recognizes both images, I have peripheral vision with the nv at least 50% of the time, none with the thermal screen.
When my conscience recognizes something of note, I blink first one eye, then the other, and determine which best identifies the object and which best gives me the where. I end up focusing on one or the other, not both.
Driving clear roads in a golf cart or non-windshield ATV, no problem with the mixed dual, just more slowly than with the other two singularly.
Walking is also slower.

Sitting in a blind, best of both worlds, see something of note, blink, determine which works best, focus, and deal with.

My experience, so far.

The first time blew my mind.
Got easier with time and use.

Depending on previous nv experience, the learning curve may progress faster if you are really comfortable with nv and dont get headaches using it.

Same for thermal if you have helmet mounted experience and previous movement to contact using it.

And it may depend on your tolerance to it and eye health. I've got a shooter with almost zero tolerance and single use NV or thermal, one hour on glass and hes miserable done. My main partner is good for about 4 hours. I've done 6 hours, but prefer less.
Theres lots to learn and everybody's learning curve is different. I was ok after a couple of weeks, and I credit that to 20+ years on NV and 10+ on thermal.

Best to you,
vr
 

StihlTech

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Sitting in a blind, best of both worlds, see something of note, blink, determine which works best, focus, and deal with.


Best to you,
vr
Excellent. Thanks. I kind of assumed as much. Plenty of time behind pvs14s and goggles. I run a handheld thermal quite a bit and I can see how rougher terrain would be difficult. 100% on being best of both worlds sitting in blind etc. Looking at updating my NV to a WP and was debating whether to just go goggles vs 2 PvS14 vs NF/Thermal. Thanks for the info.
 
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WhereNow&How

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Sorry if this has been asked already but I have been following this thread and haven’t seen it. How is depth perception with running a NV and thermal side by side? Compared to say dual 14s or bino/goggle setup? I’m assuming it wouldn’t be quite as good as dual 14s but do you feel comfortable enough moving around, or is it better for more stationary, slow stalk type of situations. Tia
I 150% agree with J-Huskey's analysis. Different peoples eyes and brains work differently with various configurations of NV, Dual NV and NV & Thermal.

For me in very dark woods (with no supplemental Illumination), in rough terrain, a single PVS14 with a Breach on the helmet paired with it works pretty well. Point being the Breach (thermal) will quite often see small limbs, trails, etc that your NV doesn't pick up well, so that kinda helps out with depth perception. However, depending on how tired I am effects my ability to switch back and forth between the 2 Screens (NV & Thermal) that I am constantly flipping my eye focus to.

However, slow and careful with any system at night is usually the best. Yep you see guys like Lucas on TRex Arms doing awesome fast running and gunning under NV, but they are on a flat, clean, well rehearsed shooting course they are intimately knowledgeable with. The real world ain't quite like that.

Also, Wigwamitus posted a lot of very good information regarding running NV & Thermal head mounted. He has a lot of time under the systems and his posts regarding such are also 150% spot on. Go back and see if you can find those.
 

PlinkIt

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Ok, finally got my attempt at dual band up and running. Thanks to everyone, and also I hate y'all as I'll never be able to retire...

Ops core carbon fast, TATM, RQE bridge, Green 14 & breach

Anyway

Well I've been playing in the dark watching the cutover around my house and playing with various settings and filters waiting to see if my brain explodes...

No explosion yet, but I did stumble across a few learnings....

One: don't make my mistake and get a bridge / mount combo that doesn't play nice together with folding to the side. The flipping to the side runs into the controls of the TATM mount.... Oops, so now it can only be used to flip upwards to the front.

This is what I'm learning during initial testing: the configuration that seems to get my eyes much happier is Pvs14 over right eye (dominant) and breach over left seems to allow my brain to mostly watch the 14 and then I can wink / think to the breach.

I could not get anything like a fusion of image at first no matter what I was doing. Then I started playing with filters on ocular of units (Wilcox Amber, SnB, & LIF) while changing settings. Landed on using the LIF in the ocular of the green 14 and the breach on outdoor alert mode and holy hell did the light bulb go off finally! The colors are really close and my brain almost washes the breach out and when the "alert mode" turns a warm spot heavy black & orange it still pops out to my brain somehow

I spent the last hour walking around in this configuration thinking to myself this is great
 

WhereNow&How

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"Ops core carbon fast, TATM, RQE bridge, Green 14 & breach"

"One: don't make my mistake and get a bridge / mount combo that doesn't play nice together with folding to the side. The flipping to the side runs into the controls of the TATM mount.... Oops, so now it can only be used to flip upwards to the front."


Like I have stated in some of my previous posts. The Rhino II with Dovetail Socket, paired with the Mod Armory Quick Disconnect or Lightweight Bridge Mounts works perfect for a PVS 14 & Breach Combination. They play very nice folding to the side or all the way stowed on your helmet (much closer than any other mount/bridge combo) and is much more durable and rugged than the RQE Bridge, plus a whole lot nicer on the pocketbook.
 
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PlinkIt

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@WhereNow&How yes I was trying to push that notation out there so other would follow your example, and not end up like I did

I ended up in a position buying some of this stuff as groups of stuff, and it was actually cheaper for me to go this route. Being cheap usually bites me in the rear end though and made me loose the ability to flip to side.
 
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wigwamitus

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... This is what I'm learning during initial testing: the configuration that seems to get my eyes much happier is Pvs14 over right eye (dominant) and breach over left seems to allow my brain to mostly watch the 14 and then I can wink / think to the breach ...
I've done it both ways ... 2016-17 I had thermal on right eye and 14 on left, then in 2018 reversed ... with thermal on left and 14 on right. This was when I added the coti on the 14.

But it took some getting used to when I switched them.

But I like it with 14 on right (dom) eye as I think this minimizes time required to engage, resulting in the fastest setup.