Any magical elixirs for removing carbon build up from muzzle?

BJames

Something witty
Jan 20, 2014
86
26
18
Alaska
#1
Just like the title says, what are guys using? I’ve been soaking with hoppes 9 and scrubbing with a nylon brush. That takes awhile, I’m looking for something easier. Also, I’m 100% suppressed.
 

Lunchbox27

Tactical Password Resetter
Mar 23, 2017
299
114
43
MD
#3
I have been using MPro7. Soak a patch, place it on the muzzle and wrap a rubber band around it. I wait about 45 mins and the caked on parts come off easily with a plastic pick.
 

spife7980

Full Member
Feb 10, 2017
4,247
1,200
113
Central TX
#5
I have soaked them in boretech c4 carbon remover and clr with intermittent steel brushing, usually have it all off in a half hour and three brushings 10 minutes apart.
I think the CLR worked faster but it also takes the black off the brake I think. One came out splotchy and the second came out looking much more silver entirely.

Edit: Shoot, you said muzzle, not muzzle brake. I would not go scrubbing the crap out of the crown with a steel brush, but a brake all the way.
 

KZP

P.L.O.
Mar 11, 2017
174
116
43
Raleigh, NC
#6
I have success with Ballistol, q-tips and my finger nail.

There was a youtube video I watched of someone using Rand CLP to get off lots of caked on carbon, I will give that a try some time.
 
Nov 24, 2013
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Dallas
#9
May 22, 2010
522
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Central Texas
#28
I run a 30P-1 direct. It makes a mess that is for certain. If you use KG carbon remover soaked on a cleaning patch after each session before you leave, while it is still warm, you will find it is quite easy to deal with. For the first time though, it's a mess. I used KG, my fingernail and a plastic brush removing the buildup. Probably could have used something more harsh but I wanted to be careful with the crown.
 

BJames

Something witty
Jan 20, 2014
86
26
18
Alaska
#29
What's your application technique?
Damp patch, pistol rod through the bore guide, and very carefully after that. Basically just until I start to feel a little resistance. The jury is still out for me on this, I see the theory with trying to keep the carbon ring in check without cleaning the entire barrel, but I’m not so sure after that stuff ate the O-rings off my bore guide...
 

Apnea

learning
Sep 17, 2017
256
83
28
CA
#30
Damp patch, pistol rod through the bore guide, and very carefully after that. Basically just until I start to feel a little resistance. The jury is still out for me on this, I see the theory with trying to keep the carbon ring in check without cleaning the entire barrel, but I’m not so sure after that stuff ate the O-rings off my bore guide...
Wondering if patch wrapped around a nylon brush, just give a few turns in the throa tand then call it good?
 

BJames

Something witty
Jan 20, 2014
86
26
18
Alaska
#31
Wondering if patch wrapped around a nylon brush, just give a few turns in the throa tand then call it good?
That definitely could work. I’m thinking something along these same lines but with clr. I’m not sure what the chemical composition is of fuel injector cleaner or what metals are used to manufacture engine valves compared to our barrels and the stuff purposely designed to eat carbon.
 
Dec 23, 2017
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4
3
#32
Yamaha ring free cuts carbon really quick. I'd get about 1/8" of carbon on the crown running Rl26 in my creed. I tried using CR10 on a patch then on a towel I would rub the crown with. Took about 45 minutes. Ringfree rubbed on at the range after I squirt some wipeout in for the ride home. I eleastic band a rag on the brake if i don't remove it. When I get home i patch out the bore then wet a rag and the carbon comes off in less than 5 minutes. If you wait till it's cold it will take longer to work.
Kroil will do the same thing It's hard to find locally for me. This is how I discovered the ringfree.
 

mj1995

Little airborne
Apr 11, 2012
263
13
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Tacoma Wa
#33
I wonder how well an automotive additive would work. Like the vp race fuel additive. Had anyone tried since they are made to eat the carbon and varnish off of valves and injectors
 
Dec 23, 2017
21
4
3
#34
I wonder how well an automotive additive would work. Like the vp race fuel additive. Had anyone tried since they are made to eat the carbon and varnish off of valves and injectors
Yamaha ringfree is the additive used to keep the carbon off of the O2 sensor in the efi 2stoke engines. Quick kleen works just as well. Chevron techron is probably the fastest carbon cutter you can easily get. Try it on your brake first. You will be surprised how quickly it works. I use the ringfree because I buy it by the case for the boat and always have some here.
 
Likes: mj1995
Feb 20, 2017
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40
28
#37
Mpro7 works great for me. A little goes along way, let it soak for 10 min or so, scrub with nylon brush if need, rag away.
The guy who said steel wool, that scares me, wouldn't that scratch up the parkerizing or whatever finish the barrel has?
 

BJames

Something witty
Jan 20, 2014
86
26
18
Alaska
#40
Thanks everyone for the responses. The barrel is naked stainless, it’s nice not worrying about eating a finish. I’m going to give each one a try and see what happens.
 
Apr 24, 2017
1,080
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Hoover, Alabama
#41
I tried Lemi-Shine as recommended by APA and it got some of the carbon build up off, but not much. I tried fuel injector cleaner / carburetor cleaner and let the muzzle break and muzzle sit in that for 10-15mins. I used a old tooth brush and a brass brush to clean the remaining carbon off. Next time I will try CLR or some of the boat products. I was tempted to let it sit longer
 

BJames

Something witty
Jan 20, 2014
86
26
18
Alaska
#44
So, I tried most of the suggestions and here’s what I came up with.

1. Most “gun” cleaners will work, eventually... Might take a few days for the really caked and baked jobs.

2. Fuel injector cleaner works faster than the so called “gun” cleaners. Overall, tends to work better, though you might need to use a brush to remove the really stubborn patches.

3. CLR works the fastest bar none, no brushing really required. However, I’m nervous to use it too much after my 6mm brass jag now has a frosted finish after 2 uses. I know it’s just soft brass and barrels are stainless. My next experiment is let my thread protector sit in the stuff for an extended period of time and see what happens.

Not scientific at all, but for some guy in his basement I think I’ve found what will work for me. Next I’d like to try the Slip 2000 products. Theyre making some pretty amazing claims.