Accuracy International Picture Thread

DDRH65CM

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Since this thread gets so many eyes, i'm hoping some one can help with an answer.

Would the magnum bolt from a LA AX fit in a SA AX bolt carrier? and if so would it function/headspace with the AT style barrel?

Reason i ask, because, it would be a nice option if i can get a 6.5 PRC barrel and run that in my SA AX. Kinda wish i bought the AXMC at the time.
 

Covertnoob5

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Since this thread gets so many eyes, i'm hoping some one can help with an answer.

Would the magnum bolt from a LA AX fit in a SA AX bolt carrier? and if so would it function/headspace with the AT style barrel?

Reason i ask, because, it would be a nice option if i can get a 6.5 PRC barrel and run that in my SA AX. Kinda wish i bought the AXMC at the time.
Nope. It sure won’t. Should’ve got the MC. Only way to run mag calibers.
 
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Luvman

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And the 3 stooges are complete..... now for some good weather for my candy-ass to go shoot, thanks to several of you putting up with
all my haggling to get all of this put together...

View attachment 7013541
Looks like you have too many AI rifles. I offer my services for storage and care of the green AXMC. I’ll happily pay for shipping. Please PM your info.

Oh and make sure to send plenty of ammo. It’s hard to care for a rifle without shooting it. :)
 

Basher

I fly stuff and I know things.
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I’m hoping they never make the AX flat all the way to the magwell (think mdt arc chassis).

That’ll cost me 6k instantly.
I thought BRD (Black Rifle Disease) was bad! Nice snag on the NV mount this morning, by the way. I wanted to jump on it, but knew you'd been looking awhile and people had tagged you already, haha.
 

96C

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What self respecting truck wouldn’t give up an axle to make a barrel for an AI?
Tell me about it! haha... The Proof Carbon barrel cut 1,174 grams (almost 2.6 POUNDS) off the rifle from the 26" 260Rem to the 24" 6.5CM.

  • LW barrel, steel, 260REM, 26", Medium Palma style = 2,581 grams without brake.
  • LW barrel, steel, 308WIN, 20", Palma style = 1,636 grams without brake.
  • Proof CF barrel, 6.5 Creedmoor, 24", Straight taper style = 1,407 grams without brake.

barrels2_large.jpg

https://www.lowvisgear.com/blogs/news/proof-research-pre-fit-barrel
 
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QuarterHorse

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I was listening to Frank's last podcast and since I'm shopping for an AT, he mentioned the ATLE that Mile High could build. I'm hoping in the next podcast Mike will be on talking about it as my interest is peaked. It may push it out of my budget on the initial buy but maybe a mod down the road too.
 

Dthomas3523

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I was listening to Frank's last podcast and since I'm shopping for an AT, he mentioned the ATLE that Mile High could build. I'm hoping in the next podcast Mike will be on talking about it as my interest is peaked. It may push it out of my budget on the initial buy but maybe a mod down the road too.
It’s nothing new. The big appeal is they will be priced differently for LE.

Guys have been swapping the stock out for the AX conversion kit for almost a year already.

The AT LE is literally an AT with the AX conversion kit already installed at discounted pricing.

If you’re not LE, it’s gonna cost you minimum $800 more for the kit and probably a bit more if you want them to install it for you.
 

Dthomas3523

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My assumption is the LE pricing will probably be around what the AT folder costs normally.

At best, and a super good deal, $3500. But I wouldn’t hold your breath on that. Probably around 4k.
 

QuarterHorse

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It’s nothing new. The big appeal is they will be priced differently for LE.

Guys have been swapping the stock out for the AX conversion kit for almost a year already.

The AT LE is literally an AT with the AX conversion kit already installed at discounted pricing.

If you’re not LE, it’s gonna cost you minimum $800 more for the kit and probably a bit more if you want them to install it for you.
Ah I was wondering if it was more to it than that.
 

Dthomas3523

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I need to report I was either wrong or didn’t give the comp trigger a fair shake.

The one I tried was a buddy’s and it was a “try it and if you like it, buy it” deal. Since it wasn’t mine, I didn’t want to over adjust something like seer engagement and screw up a trigger that wasn’t mine.

Over the past month, after reading how many people love the trigger, I went ahead and bought one here on the hide. Figured if I screwed it up, I can just sent it back to be fixed and not care.

Spent an hour or so tweaking it, putting it back, tweaking more. Finally got it with about a 1# 1st stage and a 1.5# 2nd.

Had to adjust the second seer slightly to remove any creep in the final pull. I may have to adjust it slightly more as I’m noticing a tiny, tiny bit as I’m getting used to the trigger.

The difference I loved about the factory and hated about the comp previously was the break. The factory just breaks awesome.

I was still having this issue (albeit less) with this trigger. So I adjusted all the over travel out of it, and wham, almost identical break to the factory trigger.

The factory trigger does technically have overtravel, but I wouldn’t call it normal overtravel. It breaks, the trigger stops, and you pretty much have to muscle/crush the trigger to overtravel.

The comp trigger seems to need the overtravel adjusted out, otherwise it’s much easier to feel the overtravel compared to the factory.


I don’t think I’m going to see a huge performance difference between the factory and comp trigger. But the biggest reason I gave it another shot was to see if I could get it right so I can use the m700 version of this trigger on my vudoo and vector.

I have smaller hands, so the adjustable shoe would be nice across the board, as well as being able to tune it exactly the same.


So, for now, unless I experience a failure in a match, I’m back onboard with the comp trigger.

If you’re having trouble getting that “AI feel,” try taking all the over travel out of your comp trigger.
 

samb300

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Thanks for the tip @Dthomas3523 . I have my comp trigger adjusted to how I like it, and I've been really happy with it over the past 6 months of shooting, but I'll keep the overtravel adjustment in mind since I don't think I even touched that out of the box. Maybe the break could be improved a bit more.

The factory trigger is amazing in its own right, but I don't know if anyone that uses an AI in a primarily competition setting could honestly shoot the same or better with a 3.5# trigger vs. the 1-2# comp trigger. My first range session with the comp trigger set to 10oz/10oz (1st/2nd stage), and I was shooting 1 MOA groups off a barricade with minimal effort. Some days I could match that with the factory trigger, but it always felt like I was battling the trigger break throughout the wobble zone of the reticle. Now it's much more subconscious since I don't have to work that extra 2# of pull weight.
 

FORESTBARBER

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I need to report I was either wrong or didn’t give the comp trigger a fair shake.

The one I tried was a buddy’s and it was a “try it and if you like it, buy it” deal. Since it wasn’t mine, I didn’t want to over adjust something like seer engagement and screw up a trigger that wasn’t mine.

Over the past month, after reading how many people love the trigger, I went ahead and bought one here on the hide. Figured if I screwed it up, I can just sent it back to be fixed and not care.

Spent an hour or so tweaking it, putting it back, tweaking more. Finally got it with about a 1# 1st stage and a 1.5# 2nd.

Had to adjust the second seer slightly to remove any creep in the final pull. I may have to adjust it slightly more as I’m noticing a tiny, tiny bit as I’m getting used to the trigger.

The difference I loved about the factory and hated about the comp previously was the break. The factory just breaks awesome.

I was still having this issue (albeit less) with this trigger. So I adjusted all the over travel out of it, and wham, almost identical break to the factory trigger.

The factory trigger does technically have overtravel, but I wouldn’t call it normal overtravel. It breaks, the trigger stops, and you pretty much have to muscle/crush the trigger to overtravel.

The comp trigger seems to need the overtravel adjusted out, otherwise it’s much easier to feel the overtravel compared to the factory.


I don’t think I’m going to see a huge performance difference between the factory and comp trigger. But the biggest reason I gave it another shot was to see if I could get it right so I can use the m700 version of this trigger on my vudoo and vector.

I have smaller hands, so the adjustable shoe would be nice across the board, as well as being able to tune it exactly the same.


So, for now, unless I experience a failure in a match, I’m back onboard with the comp trigger.

If you’re having trouble getting that “AI feel,” try taking all the over travel out of your comp trigger.
<<<My experience has been that if you adjust all of the overtravel out the trigger will sometimes not reset and will drop the firing pin UNSAFE on an empty chamber if you cycle the bolt quickly. Mine is safe at 8ounces with just a bit of overtravel.
 
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Chasing3

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Anyone hear if other chassis/stock manufacturers are going to start making chassis for AI actions other then MPA? I like the AI stocks but options are always nice.
 

Dthomas3523

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<<<My experience has been that if you adjust all of the overtravel out the trigger will sometimes not reset and will drop the firing pin UNSAFE on an empty chamber if you cycle the bolt quickly. Mine is safe at 8ounces with just a bit of overtravel.
Been running it hard without any overtravel, no issues.

But I’m also over 1lb on the 2nd stage.
 

jwknutson17

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Anyone have some Elite Sand pics they could send my way? Debating between Sage Green or Elite sand and have heard conflicting data. One said the Elite sand is darker then the Sage green but with a tad more grey, and others said the elite sand is lighter with more of a light tan. Cant find any side by side pics. Thanks in advance.
 

Night Assassin

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Anyone have some Elite Sand pics they could send my way? Debating between Sage Green or Elite sand and have heard conflicting data. One said the Elite sand is darker then the Sage green but with a tad more grey, and others said the elite sand is lighter with more of a light tan. Cant find any side by side pics. Thanks in advance.
Sage is top , Elite Sand is middle D4C02B7B-7DDA-44E7-A104-9F6F152ADAB3.jpeg