Nope. It sure won’t. Should’ve got the MC. Only way to run mag calibers.Since this thread gets so many eyes, i'm hoping some one can help with an answer.
Would the magnum bolt from a LA AX fit in a SA AX bolt carrier? and if so would it function/headspace with the AT style barrel?
Reason i ask, because, it would be a nice option if i can get a 6.5 PRC barrel and run that in my SA AX. Kinda wish i bought the AXMC at the time.
Looks like you have too many AI rifles. I offer my services for storage and care of the green AXMC. I’ll happily pay for shipping. Please PM your info.
I thought BRD (Black Rifle Disease) was bad! Nice snag on the NV mount this morning, by the way. I wanted to jump on it, but knew you'd been looking awhile and people had tagged you already, haha.I’m hoping they never make the AX flat all the way to the magwell (think mdt arc chassis).
That’ll cost me 6k instantly.
Tell me about it! haha... The Proof Carbon barrel cut 1,174 grams (almost 2.6 POUNDS) off the rifle from the 26" 260Rem to the 24" 6.5CM.What self respecting truck wouldn’t give up an axle to make a barrel for an AI?
It’s nothing new. The big appeal is they will be priced differently for LE.I was listening to Frank's last podcast and since I'm shopping for an AT, he mentioned the ATLE that Mile High could build. I'm hoping in the next podcast Mike will be on talking about it as my interest is peaked. It may push it out of my budget on the initial buy but maybe a mod down the road too.
Ah I was wondering if it was more to it than that.It’s nothing new. The big appeal is they will be priced differently for LE.
Guys have been swapping the stock out for the AX conversion kit for almost a year already.
The AT LE is literally an AT with the AX conversion kit already installed at discounted pricing.
If you’re not LE, it’s gonna cost you minimum $800 more for the kit and probably a bit more if you want them to install it for you.
I did not ask. I figured it would be cheaper to find someone selling one here on the Hide and paying for it to be chopped and re-threaded. An extra three to $400 isn’t worth it for me to have to flat on the sides of the barrelBy chance, is it 5/8x24 thread? If not, I might go with a Proof barrel for a little extra money.
<<<My experience has been that if you adjust all of the overtravel out the trigger will sometimes not reset and will drop the firing pin UNSAFE on an empty chamber if you cycle the bolt quickly. Mine is safe at 8ounces with just a bit of overtravel.I need to report I was either wrong or didn’t give the comp trigger a fair shake.
The one I tried was a buddy’s and it was a “try it and if you like it, buy it” deal. Since it wasn’t mine, I didn’t want to over adjust something like seer engagement and screw up a trigger that wasn’t mine.
Over the past month, after reading how many people love the trigger, I went ahead and bought one here on the hide. Figured if I screwed it up, I can just sent it back to be fixed and not care.
Spent an hour or so tweaking it, putting it back, tweaking more. Finally got it with about a 1# 1st stage and a 1.5# 2nd.
Had to adjust the second seer slightly to remove any creep in the final pull. I may have to adjust it slightly more as I’m noticing a tiny, tiny bit as I’m getting used to the trigger.
The difference I loved about the factory and hated about the comp previously was the break. The factory just breaks awesome.
I was still having this issue (albeit less) with this trigger. So I adjusted all the over travel out of it, and wham, almost identical break to the factory trigger.
The factory trigger does technically have overtravel, but I wouldn’t call it normal overtravel. It breaks, the trigger stops, and you pretty much have to muscle/crush the trigger to overtravel.
The comp trigger seems to need the overtravel adjusted out, otherwise it’s much easier to feel the overtravel compared to the factory.
I don’t think I’m going to see a huge performance difference between the factory and comp trigger. But the biggest reason I gave it another shot was to see if I could get it right so I can use the m700 version of this trigger on my vudoo and vector.
I have smaller hands, so the adjustable shoe would be nice across the board, as well as being able to tune it exactly the same.
So, for now, unless I experience a failure in a match, I’m back onboard with the comp trigger.
If you’re having trouble getting that “AI feel,” try taking all the over travel out of your comp trigger.
Been running it hard without any overtravel, no issues.<<<My experience has been that if you adjust all of the overtravel out the trigger will sometimes not reset and will drop the firing pin UNSAFE on an empty chamber if you cycle the bolt quickly. Mine is safe at 8ounces with just a bit of overtravel.
Sage is top , Elite Sand is middleAnyone have some Elite Sand pics they could send my way? Debating between Sage Green or Elite sand and have heard conflicting data. One said the Elite sand is darker then the Sage green but with a tad more grey, and others said the elite sand is lighter with more of a light tan. Cant find any side by side pics. Thanks in advance.