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Thread: Remington 700 in 300 RUM, beginner rifle scope?

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    Remington 700 in 300 RUM, beginner rifle scope?

    I am going to be reloading, so I would appreciate any proven loads yall have worked up as well as help on getting my first scope. I was thinking a mil dot fixed power would be adequate and was wondering what yall thought of the Bushnell Elite Tactical Rifle Scope 10x 40mm Mil-Dot Reticle Matte? I know it is a lower priced scope, but I will be beginning by working up to 500 yd shots and then see where I can go from there. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

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    Is this your first centerfire rifle?

    Re: the scope. That scope is OK, but the SWFA SS fixed power is quite a bit nicer for a little more money.
    Not to be confused with THAT Guy.

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    I would recommend saving a bit and getting a scope you will be happy with for the longer term.

    After going through a similar process, I decided on the Vortex Viper PST 6-24 and have been very happy with it. The gang at Sport Optics will give you a very nice Snipers Hide discount. Rifle Scopes, Binoculars, Spotting Scopes and Range Finders | Swarovski, Leica, Zeiss | SportOptics

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    i would suggest looking at a vortex hs-t

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    Have you ever actually shot a 300rum?

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    ^^^ same thoughts, 300 rum is a great hunting cartridge, but I wouldnt want to shoot it at steel. The recoil will not be fun to deal with (spotting shots). Anyway, if you plan to hunt long range on the prairie, the x10 should do you fine. If you will be anywhere near trees and thick brush, get a variable.
    Always remember rule number one!
    HMCS(SW/AW)(RET)

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    Scope is fine but I opted for more power and larger tube and went with a Bushnell Tactical Elite 6-24x50 with the FFP and G2DMR. Make sure it is mounted securely with heavy, 4 bolt per ring, rings and a one-piece mount. I would stay away from the picatinny rail submount with rings and go with a solid mount that bolts directly from scope to action with as few parts as possible. I torque and retorque regularly. I bedded the mount in blue loctite. Torque the action as well making sure your barrel has a good float, several business cards thick.

    A RUM without a brake will take all the fun out of shooting. I don't have a brake on my 300 mag but will with the next barrel. I suggest you start with 190s or larger projectiles and h1000 and go up from there. A lot of people shoot 208 Amax loads. I've tried SMK 240's @ 2,700fps and without a brake, it feels like you should call the EMT after every shot. They do group though. Measure your free bore from the start instead of screwing around like I did. I now load .020 off the lands and that translates into a COAL of 3.521 with 190 SMKs. The 240's are a little longer due to the projectile profile. I don't recommend loading the clip unless you are hunting and then use crimped bullets. Bouncing around in the clip without a crimp could turn your loads into components or stubs. Even then, I had a remington 150gr core loc come apart after the projectile was shoved into the case and the powder drained out around it. I doubt this happens often.

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    .300 RUM and beginner don't belong in the same sentence.

    Sell the RUM, buy a .22 lr and a .308 or .223.
    When somebody says "all day long", what they really mean is "once in a while".

    Want to stop shootings in "gun-free zones"? Ban gun-free zones.

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    Get a .308 and put a vortex HS-T on it. That would be a great setup to get you started.

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    I just took my 300 RUM out to a mile with my Bushnell 10X. I could have used a bit more power on the scope, but it worked out ok. Target was 24"x24" steel

    HDY 208BTHP 96.3 gr Retumbo over CCI LRM prmers did it for me with 59.5moa

    Sean